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  1. Last week
  2. neet_wagon

    My rescued GQ

    Hey guys, recently stumbled upon this glorious (or not so glorious) sight out on a mates farm: It is, or was, a 1996 TB42e auto ST that was in excellent condition before it slide down the dam bank and was laid on it's side. It has a 3" lift (though someone has nicked the rear shocks - it'll be getting new ones anyway), and adjustable panhards from a rear which is a little bonus After a few choice words, and a lot of work we managed to get it ready for the tow truck to pick it up. After we got it home, I gave it a pretty decent wash, and set to work removing the barra from the falcon. It's just your standard BA barra with 160,000kms. Best bit is it owes me exactly $0 for the whole BA :thumbup: Whilst I toil away in the shed building the Barra loom and sorting out the Patrol loom from left over horrible DIY wiring and stuff I actually need I've decided to get a head start on the dual cab chop. And that is where it currently stands. Picked it up last weekend, and pulled the Barra out, and yesterday I chopped the back off it and today I'll tackle removing the interior and the many spiders that have taken up residence inside it! Total cost so far: BA Falcon $0 GQ Patrol $200 PCM unlock and security removal $150
  3. Earlier
  4. ShaneOwnsANissan

    hand Prime pump/possible air in fuel line question

    Wow, Thanks foir the detailed reply Rumcajs! I haven't yet changed the fuel filter however the previous owner said they did it right befoire i bought it, so thinking it could be a possibility. I've changed the majority of the fuel lines however the smaller line, it looks like i tightened the hoseclamp too much and it has a slight seep from the clamp. I'll start with the fuel filter as I've already bought a replacement and then look at the other suggestions. I'll update the thread with what the fix is. Thanks, Shane
  5. Rumcajs

    hand Prime pump/possible air in fuel line question

    G'day, 1. NO, because it is on the suction side and if it only takes several presses and it goes hard then that is normal behavior. 2. Yes, you can have air entering from the priming pump diaphragm Use of injector cleaner create sometimes more problems then it is worth. Did you change fuel filter as well? If you did, it is possible that the filter installation is not correct and it is bypassing the sealing or that extra "O" ring everyone ignores..... Anyway, this is a dreaded fault for anyone "lucky enough" to own vehicle with that abomination made by Bosch the VP44 radial injection pump. What you should really do is to check ICV % via Nissan "datascan" or ECU talk software and Consult cable while engine is running. Anything less then 35% duty cycle at idle indicates issues with fuel delivery to the pump. It should be around 50%-70% under load and on deceleration even higher. To identify issue with air in the fuel is very difficult. You will need to ensure that fuel lines are sound including steel lines and pick up in the tank. That's why it is essential to be able to compare ICV% values/readings as you perform diagnostics. * Change fuel filter in case it is blocked with what cleaner has created and bleed the system thoroughly first if you can. * Check/Decide if running new fuel lines and hose clamps might fix the issue *If problem persist create/make temporary clear see through fuel lines/hoses running from the pipe in the chassis to the filter and from filter to the pump so you can visualize what air if any is coming in. * if still there run the lines from spare jerry or bucket filled with clean diesel fuel to eliminate fuel lines leading to fuel filter depending on above step. * Depending on the outcome of previous checks try another fuel filter housing to eliminate priming pump diaphragm if the air in the fuel is still present. * If the problem persist it is possible that the injection pump is failling and the big bill is coming your way. If you have access to compressed air and are handy with creating temp blanking plugs then I'd disconnect the fuel line from the injection pump, blank its end and then disconnect line at the tank and pressurize the line with max 75-85 kPa and check for air leaks. That will tell you quite quickly if there is an issue with the tightness of the system. Also don't discount possibility for fault in the electrical harness on the pump. Good luck
  6. Hi all, 2001 3L DDI When driving I'm getting the "0707 Injection Pump injection timing control" code and the car loses power. If i turn the car off for a few seconds and turn it back on I then regain power and the engine light turns off. Pressing the manual prime pump, it feels soft and I can press it a few times before going hard again. My questions: 1. Would the soft prime pump indicate air in the line? 2. If so, would this mean the air is coming from before the filter/the filter itself e.g. does the pump have a diaghpram which prevents air coming back from further up the line? I had this error the day before, thinking maybe bad fuel, put 60L and injector cleaner and the error didn't appear for 100km.Due to the prime pump being soft, I'm thinking maybe just coincidence or perhaps i have a small air leak but the main issue is bad fuel quality? Regards, Shane
  7. ShaneOwnsANissan

    Performance Chip Identification - Anyone know what brand?

    Thanks Mate, A friend of mine did the repair and chose to solder. If I have any issues I'll definitely look at using the plug/crimp joint as suggested. thanks for the info!
  8. What a mess! Soldering wires if done properly should not affect readings however soldering is not performing well under mechanically stresed connections. If I was repairing that loom I'd make intermediate plug/crimp joint in the wires but thats me, even RAAF teaches its technicians that "soldering is for PCBs and crimping for cables and I had same training for my trade from the vehicle manufacturers.... As with the chip your best bet if you really want to know is to expose its internals aka check the PCB with all the electronic hardware. Like this one ==> Essentially repackaged DTE chip the grand daddy of them all. Anyway, yours seems awfully like the DPU system or Diesel Power Unlimited I found the link to to it on Russian E-bay (DPU chip) Regards
  9. ShaneOwnsANissan

    Performance Chip Identification - Anyone know what brand?

    Hi Rumcajs, It's installed on a 2001 GU ZD30 VP44 pump. 3L non-common rail. I've been unsuccessful in my many hours of searching to find a picture of this exact one, I've found DTE and DTUK chips that are very very similar with the same outer casing but they are also slightly different.. :\. I've soldered these bad boys back together and the car now runs (Bought it not running) but not sure if soldering affects the readings to/from the pump in anyway. I'll have to find some electrical guru who knows for sure.
  10. G'day, For which model of GU is this unit for? Is it for ZD30 VP44 injection pumps? The sad reality is that for the most if not all of these aftermarket "piggy back" controllers is that they're usually repackaged same electronics from just one manufacturer. As for the plugs or perhaps entire loom the best chance is to go to wreckers. Technically they should also be available as spare parts but the cost is usually very high. Regards
  11. Hi, Can anyone identify this chip? Looks similar to a DTE when searching and seems to have the same casing but the DTE chips have buttons, and look slightly different. Searching the numbers on the tag return nothing Also Is it possible to buy a replacement Wiring loom from Injector Pump to the factory loom (with or without the Tee off for the chip)? cheers, Shane
  12. Rumcajs

    Noob Victoria

    G'day, Welcome to the forum, feel free to share your thoughts, tips whatever. Regards
  13. Rumcajs

    jaguar 4.2Lt v8 conversation

    Gday, welcome, Hmm, interesting choice of an engine, I have personally never heard of such conversion and can only speculate following: Being a Jag motor I can only imagine the astronomical costs of everything for it and also given they're such niche vehicle the parts availability might be a problem. Since no one has probably contemplated such conversion there will be zero aftermarket parts available for it too so everything would have to be custom fabbbed for it.... The reason why GM LS series engine conversion are so popular is because the parts are plentiful and there are number of vendors who supply ready to bolt on adapters, brackets and what have you which makes the whole project much more manageable plus so many people have done it that help/advice is freely available. Regards
  14. Hey guys new to the forum and to the patrol world but looking at converting my zd30 to jaguar 4.2lt v8 just want to know if any 1 has done it and won't to know positives and negative about converting it please
  15. Danyel

    Noob Victoria

    Hey Guys and Gals? Just wanted to say a quick hello. As the title states, I am a noob on this forum. Also I am a noob to owning a Patrol, bought a 98 Y61 4.5L which I have now owned for two months. It has all the usual mods and I am more than happy with it so far. Using it mainly for accessing the more remote camp sites and getting into places to do a little gold prospecting. Joined this forum to learn and share knowledge. Anyways hope y'all having a blast! Dan'
  16. Rumcajs

    Nissan 2005 Patrol wagon

    G'day, Every logical explanations points to not being the air cleaner or fuel filter, however I do recommend to inspect and change as contaminated air cleaner will foul MAF sensor and contaminated fuel filter will ruin the fuel system and indeed ZD30 of 2005 and earlier vintage has a very weak and fragile injection pump which doesn't tolerate such issue very well and for long. So, if the engine doesn't seem to labor or appears under heavy load like after the fault occurs (hence how it freely revs up stationary) we can discount exhaust blockage (sometimes exhaust catalyst can be faulty and as it heats up it can collapse and cause exhaust restriction which is usually manifested by lack of power and a lots of black smoke. But that wouldn't clear after 1 minute engine off scenario either.... However to be able to actually do any diagnosing you do need to see what the engine is doing, e.g turbo boost at the point of failure, engine sensors reading (MAF voltages vs RPM vs TPS position) So in the case of turbo boost there is clear relationship between power output, smoke output so if the values don't support healthy operation one can start pin point the probable cause. Because your vehicle is stock it will be very difficult without an access to engine telematics to ascertain anything. The only thing you can do is to check under the hood when stationary and even then only visual checks. This what I would do if it was happening to mine, and I do have ability to read engine sensors on the fly and have extra boost gauge and exhaust gas temperature probe and gauge installed. Using ECU Talk LCD interface I would scan boost pressure and MAF voltage vs TPS% and turbo actuator% and injection pump timing solenoid% while also observing EGT temps. Low boost will increase EGTs under heavier load and I will also be able to see MAF voltages and be able to deduce if there is an issue with either system. As an example faulty MAF signalling can affect the way ECU controls fuelling and that in effect can cause smoke, lack of power etc. I would change air and fuel filters, run engine at the idle when there is no issue and check the VGT actuator (turbo) is fully up and re-check it again when the failure occurs ( this could indicate that either the control system is malfunctioning, or there is vacuum leak under the specific conditions.) I would check and also disable either temporarily or permanently the intake swirl control circuit just in case it accidentally jams closed restricting the intake (which can have the effect you're experiencing.) Another step I'd do would be to disable EGR circuit to see if that is playing up however that opens up another can of worms for those who don't grasp the concept. Faulty EGR valve which fails to close intermittently can cause similar symptoms you are experiencing. Basically something is interfering with proper way the engine air induction, fuel quantity and exhaust extraction is functioning. It could be either wrong input causing wrong output (or bullchit in bullchit out) or intermittent failure of control circuit for either of those systems. Regards
  17. Rumcajs

    NADS step by step guide

    Okay, each to their own..... technical facts are that water to air inter-cooling is not as efficient as air to air systems. Unless you are planning completely self closed system independent of engine cooling system where the cooling liquid medium is also something else then water the air to air system is better. Pure fact is that inter-cooling or heat exchanging via engine coolant will always stop at engine operating temperature in this case 87°C to 89°C vs air inter-cooling which at its worst will be usually at 20°C above ambient air temperature so even in the extreme outback scenario of 50°C ambient air temperature the air intake temperature is at 70°C still less then it would be with other application. The key is the lower the temperature of incoming air the more dense it is therefore more oxygen is available to the engine combustion process. In most if not all automotive applications the water inter-cooling is done because either air to air system is not possible or impractical or as a cheaper arrangement to improve on no inter-cooling at all. That is however not always the case indeed air to air and water to air can complement each other too subject to non standard or more complex turbo charging systems like sequential multi turbos systems for example. It is uncommon to switch from air to air systems to water to air systems unless there is a specific reasoning and or additional changes are made for the applications. Since ZD30 is already inter-cooled even though it is TMIC (Top Mounted Inter Cooler) which has it own issues with heat soak switching to engine coolant based inter-cooling seems like a backward step. Going FMIC (Front Mounted Inter Cooler) under specific set of circumstances is the improvement. Unless of course you are planning something very special but given you mention the cost of $100, it is very unlikely though do tell us what is the system like. The best bet would be to combine the two perhaps. Regards
  18. petro

    NADS step by step guide

    It isn't waste my $$$. It's cost 100$ on aliexpress.com. I must fit new water radiator and little electric water pump. And as i know it is much more efficient then air to air intercooler. My friend fit water to air intercooler on OM606 and it's working very well.
  19. Kapie

    Nissan 2005 Patrol wagon

    Good morning Thank you for replying so quickly. You make a good point about fuell over flowing. After about 45 min driving she looses power up to the point where I have to pull over and then in neutral she will get to up to close 5000 revs but with black smoke. If I then turn her off and let her sit for a minute or so she comes good again. Only to play up later again. So it makes sense about what you said about the system resetting itself. I should actually change fuell and air filters as they are long overdue. Can it be that? Bear with me please as I'm a electrician and not a mechanic so I'm limited in that regard. I can help myself with the basic to middle of the road stuff but I'm no good after that. And don't have any engine mods just a electric brake for towing heavy stuff. So to sum up: After driving for about 45 min - 1 hour she loose power and becomes very lethargic. Then I have to pull over. In neutral she gets close to 5000 revs but lot of black smoke. I turn her of and wait a minute or two. Then she goes again but +-45 later same thing happens again. Thanks for your help so far. Regards Ben
  20. Rumcajs

    Forum Upgrade 4.3.1

    Can we get a blue theme going again? This red one makes it too familiar with the others.... Cheers
  21. Rumcajs

    NADS step by step guide

    G'day Don't waste your $$$ on that exercise. Water to air intercooling is a massive compromise and not very efficient one either. You will be much better off in improving existing air to air intercooling minus less hassles with coolant pipes etc. Regards
  22. Rumcajs

    New keys

    Ni$$an $tealers can't do that! That they were unable to do so is astounding. Now I'm not sure what further details you require but I know that system will not enter in to programming mode unless all circuitry is correct. However I don't have 2008 model revision available so I can only speculate in this case. The wiring diagrams for Patrols are the nightmares because of so many revisions and changes on the fly they make. I will try to dig for more info so bear with me. Cheers
  23. Rumcajs

    Nissan 2005 Patrol wagon

    G'day, welcome to the forum. The black smoke is usually a symptom of overfuelling. You can start with the basics, air cleaner, fuel filter etc. This seems/appears to be something related to engine sensors or and ECUs as when you cycle power off everything resets. Are there any error codes/MIL flashing when that happens? Do you have themeans of seeing engine sensors output?e.g. via ECU Talk software and interface cable? I'm being tempted to suggest perhaps MAF sensor is playing up.... Anyway as a part of investigating you could try When it happens don't turn the key off but check if you can at stationary and engine still running use acc pedal to run up max RPM e.g. floor it to see what happens. Also what is the lack of power demonstrating as? No revs, lack of available throttle response or just lazy going? Also what engine mods if any do you have? Regards
  24. Good morning to all smart Nissan drivers. I have a 2005 Nissan patrol, 3l turbo diesel wagon. After about 40-45 minutes of driving it looses power with a lot of black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Then if I turn the engine off and let it sit for a few minutes it goes again only for the process to repeat itself. Funny enough that it doesn't seem to affect the revs on the engine when it does this. Any ideas please. Thank you
  25. petro

    NADS step by step guide

    Hello people I am new in this forum. I have Nissan patrol GU zd30 and i want to upgrade intercooler and going to install water air intercooler on my zd30. Someone have experience about it? What i must consider?
  26. KMann

    New keys

    Hi Rumcajs, I’m currently having exact same problem. Bought a 2008 Nissan Patrol a few months back with a dodge remote and only one key. Purchased a new key with fob from locksmith they were able to program the chip to get both keys starting the car but have been unsuccessful in getting car into program mode to set up keyless entry. Also put car into Nissan dealership who were also unable to program the keyless entry. At a loss as I have $200 key now that starts the car but does nothing else. Im far from mechanically minded but judging from your diagrams above I just need to go through and test all the wires/connections with a multi meter and find circuit M133? The beeping happens when the key is in ignition with door open so I was also wondering if you could supple further details on how to hack the multi remote signals. Central locking also works fine. Cheers,
  27. Cavey

    Gq patrol rb30

    Hey guys new to this page since i dont have fb thought this would be my best bet to get some info. So i have a rb30 pootroll she has just done the head gasket i have a spare motor im throwing in but don't know how long it will last etha so my plan is to rebuild my motor and turbo it my question the people that have done this can get some info please as on what i will need to do what the best parts will be and a rough cost on it all any help would be great cheers fellas
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