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  1. Yesterday
  2. Could you please indicates suitable values for the two boost pressures settings on the individual Dawes valves? My 2002 GU Y61 has already “hand grenaded” and been rebuilt with EGR blanked off, catch can fitted, needle valve and single Dawes (giving 14 psi boost) in place, and an electric Boost Controller Switch and second Dawes valve supplied. The mod.s are working well and I would now like to fit and use the second Dawes valve, hence the question regarding recommended pressure settings. The vehicle is running 33” x 16” tyres, a 50mm suspension raise and spring/shock absorber upgrade with a 3” exhaust and front winch/bar replacement. It is used mostly for off-roads and also a bit of camper trailer towing (about 1500 kg). I have read quite a bit of yours and others output about this “interesting” engine with great attention, but have not come across much in the way of definitive guide lines on these pressure values involved. Many thanks for your continuing interest and output and I look forward to your reply. Cheers, Rico. ,
  3. Last week
  4. I have a1997 Y60 Nisan Patrol that has developed a violent and nasty shaking of the steering wheel when it meets even slight road unevenness at speeds above 60km/hr. Changed front shocks and carried out wheel balance and alignment, but problem persists. Will appreciate ideas as to what to do next to resolve the problem.
  5. Earlier
  6. Hi thanks for the info. I've purchased after market replacements as my light covers were cracked and as mentioned in your post, they came with the required wiring, but after fitting them, neither indicators or dash flashers work. I've checked all the globes and connections, but to no avail. Tail, stop lamps and reversing lights all work. Any suggestions as to where to go from here (other than an auto electrician)? Marcel
  7. Hi guys I have a Nissan gu y61 2000 model yesterday I programmed two keys to it by my self I brought ( id41 chips ) and a few Nissan keys i then used the computer I brought to add the keys to the immobiliser it took about 60 seconds to add two keys .
  8. Just check that engine ECU is staying alive during cranking process, it does sounds like 'DR' circuit is dropping hence if engine is turned on without starter motor it fires up. Could possibly be ECU ground/earth issue. Regards
  9. I concur, far easier and cheaper to have re- mapped ECU from Harley, instead of dicking around with addons which are being defeated constantly by the factory ECU. Indeed there isn't even the need for Dawes/Tilix or needle valve combos, just leave original factory boost control in, works like charm. Unfortunately flashing factory ECU is not straight forward process( deliberately designed to have once only EPROM chips instead of EEPROM) so I recommend getting extra ECU if he still offers that option as that way you have a backup OEM unit. Regards
  10. Mate do a search for East Coast Performance Tuning (ECPT). Harley there is the guru of tuning the patrol DI ecu. You can post it to him if your not close to him. I have heard he is restructuring his business at present so his business name may have changed. Alternatively you could try Pat at Powercurve performance (Nambour) who has been working with Harley a bit to tune these also. I understand Ecu tuning is considerable cheaper than a unichip, and certainly much better than any if the generic chips for this vehicle. Hope that helps Cheers
  11. newby, got a Patrol 2004 zd30di. I'm wanting to know what is the best way to tune my car and get the best performance. Can the ECU be flashed or do I need to get a Unichip I've fitted a 3" exhaust, guages, Dawes and needle Valve, next looking at a high flow filter box and pipework, and increase the intercooler and pipe sizes. Any suggestions
  12. Updated to 1.6.2 (latest) tapatalk plugin today.. Sorry it took so long
  13. So this one has me beat. 3.0 zd30 patrol, will not start off key. Fuel pressure all good battery volts good. Car will bump start first time every time and run fine. Ignition on starter solenoid bridged to rule out key switch still no start. Thought maybe lazy so replaced.. turns over a lot quicker but refuses to start off key .. Thoughts ?
  14. Well, indeed that could be the case, stuck partially open. Remove and check visually. Regards
  15. Hey Lads, first ever post, Recently picked up a 1992 model TB42E and I temp guage doesn’t work, gets to maybe 1/4 of the full guage, threw a new temp sensor in and still the same, is it possible I have a faulty thermostat as my heater also seems piss weak? Cheers
  16. Hi, OK, Clutch disengaged, in gear it begins to hunt. Heat switch on and same as above same deal, but the revs hunt from 11 rpm downwards. 4wd lever in neutral, clutch disengaged, in gear, same thing. Cant confirm on brake pedal theory at the moment. I am looking at TPS fault but will need to look into it a bit further. Clutch & flywheel is being replaced next month so will see what happens? Thanks for the reply will let you know what the outcome is.
  17. G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'd jack the Patrol of the ground and try, park brake off and repeat. If there is no load on drive train and it stops doing it then it is possible. I can't see this being a neutral switch and you can check quickly by using 'engine warm up' switch. If engaged RPM should be around 1100, as soon as you move gear out of neutral the revs should drop to idle. There is also brake pedal switch which when fault occurs it migh not give you throttle response because if ECU sees TPS % off idle and brake signal at the same time it has a 'hissy' fit. You need to see what ECU sees from its sensors to narrow this down. Cheers
  18. Hi all, Just joined so keen to get amongst it. I have a gu3 manual and the issue is when it is in gear(any gear), clutch in and engine warm the engine hunts between 500rpm to normail idle speed. I have checked the shift switch and its good. This has only come on in the last few months. When rpm is over 1000 it not an issue. I know it tells the ecu its in gear when driving and has something to do with fuel when coasting TPS at zero but not sure about idle. Any help would be good as I am smoking out the shoppers when reversing out of a car park!! Sorry, 2001 zd30
  19. Rumcajs

    KenoldGU

    I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers
  20. Hi All I have a 1998 GU Nissan Patrol 2.8 lt turbo diesel, which lately has been stalling on take off in 1st gear and when I do get going it starts to kangaroo jump. Can you please help me with this problem. Thanks Ken
  21. G'day, I'm at a loss to understand what is your objective? Short answer is that you can't just 'bypass' ABS rear sensors. I'm assuming the wheel speed sensors, am I right? If you want to just disable ABS functionality then just remove relevant fuses. It will be standard brakes with anti lock function removed. Regards
  22. can anyone one give me an idea of how to bypass rear brake sensor, which pipes do i rejoin also which one to blank off, this vehicle also has abs fitted so i am hoping i can do away with the rear sensor any advice would be realy helpful or maybe someone has a video tutorial on this.
  23. No one knows why but they also put emphasis on that it must be semi-synthetic whatever that suppose to mean, technically 100% synthetic motor oil is a myth! Jusk ask a petro chemical engineer who is willing to divulge this scam or just read about on Wikipedia! All widely available 'synthetic' motor oils are based on crude oil with higher end processing/refining so most of the impurties from crude are removed and special additives to improve the concoction are added. It must be said that engine oils today are mostly suited to latest designs combustion precesses therefore older design like ZD30 will not benefit from latest oils indeed there are downsides. High quality mineral or blended (semi-synthetic) oils are better for ZD30. I'm trialling ULX110 which is special blend mineral oil with some fancy organic additives. I was happily using Caltex Delo 400 variety before, all 15W-40 and no issues. Regards
  24. You can start with Dronus' excellent guide =>
  25. So what are the solutions I can do now to make it last as long as possible
  26. G'day, I'm sorry but there are no quick fixes for ZD30 design flaws just replacement with something better. This engine has been designed when Nissan was nearly bankrupt so only the cheapest and nastiest would pass the muster for the "bean counters." Of course this is just my conjecture as nothing else can explain this imbecilic abomination and utter refusal of Nissan to correct it. If ever one was to see how not to design diesel engine this is it. Its a mashup of various petrol engine 'know hows' with diesel bits thrown in from the bottom of the parts bin then checked per unit cost until cheapest is obtained. All the info we have stands. These mods don't save the engine, just postpone the inevitable. Thats it. BTW the comon rail versions of this abomination 'grenade' too! Regards
  27. Gday I have recently purchased a 2002 nissan patrol. Have been reading Alot about the zd30 (the grenade) engine blowing up most posts I have seen are posted back in 2012 just curious if there are any new ways to stop the engine blowing cheers
  28. Gday lads, wanting to know if any of you know any mobs around Melbourne that can mod the seat rails on my gq so I can get a little extra leg room. I’m 6’7 so some extra room in the old girl on the longer trips would be handy! Thanks
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