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  1. Last week
  2. Hi, OK, Clutch disengaged, in gear it begins to hunt. Heat switch on and same as above same deal, but the revs hunt from 11 rpm downwards. 4wd lever in neutral, clutch disengaged, in gear, same thing. Cant confirm on brake pedal theory at the moment. I am looking at TPS fault but will need to look into it a bit further. Clutch & flywheel is being replaced next month so will see what happens? Thanks for the reply will let you know what the outcome is.
  3. Earlier
  4. G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'd jack the Patrol of the ground and try, park brake off and repeat. If there is no load on drive train and it stops doing it then it is possible. I can't see this being a neutral switch and you can check quickly by using 'engine warm up' switch. If engaged RPM should be around 1100, as soon as you move gear out of neutral the revs should drop to idle. There is also brake pedal switch which when fault occurs it migh not give you throttle response because if ECU sees TPS % off idle and brake signal at the same time it has a 'hissy' fit. You need to see what ECU sees from its sensors to narrow this down. Cheers
  5. Hi all, Just joined so keen to get amongst it. I have a gu3 manual and the issue is when it is in gear(any gear), clutch in and engine warm the engine hunts between 500rpm to normail idle speed. I have checked the shift switch and its good. This has only come on in the last few months. When rpm is over 1000 it not an issue. I know it tells the ecu its in gear when driving and has something to do with fuel when coasting TPS at zero but not sure about idle. Any help would be good as I am smoking out the shoppers when reversing out of a car park!! Sorry, 2001 zd30
  6. Rumcajs

    KenoldGU

    I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers
  7. Hi All I have a 1998 GU Nissan Patrol 2.8 lt turbo diesel, which lately has been stalling on take off in 1st gear and when I do get going it starts to kangaroo jump. Can you please help me with this problem. Thanks Ken
  8. G'day, I'm at a loss to understand what is your objective? Short answer is that you can't just 'bypass' ABS rear sensors. I'm assuming the wheel speed sensors, am I right? If you want to just disable ABS functionality then just remove relevant fuses. It will be standard brakes with anti lock function removed. Regards
  9. can anyone one give me an idea of how to bypass rear brake sensor, which pipes do i rejoin also which one to blank off, this vehicle also has abs fitted so i am hoping i can do away with the rear sensor any advice would be realy helpful or maybe someone has a video tutorial on this.
  10. No one knows why but they also put emphasis on that it must be semi-synthetic whatever that suppose to mean, technically 100% synthetic motor oil is a myth! Jusk ask a petro chemical engineer who is willing to divulge this scam or just read about on Wikipedia! All widely available 'synthetic' motor oils are based on crude oil with higher end processing/refining so most of the impurties from crude are removed and special additives to improve the concoction are added. It must be said that engine oils today are mostly suited to latest designs combustion precesses therefore older design like ZD30 will not benefit from latest oils indeed there are downsides. High quality mineral or blended (semi-synthetic) oils are better for ZD30. I'm trialling ULX110 which is special blend mineral oil with some fancy organic additives. I was happily using Caltex Delo 400 variety before, all 15W-40 and no issues. Regards
  11. You can start with Dronus' excellent guide =>
  12. So what are the solutions I can do now to make it last as long as possible
  13. G'day, I'm sorry but there are no quick fixes for ZD30 design flaws just replacement with something better. This engine has been designed when Nissan was nearly bankrupt so only the cheapest and nastiest would pass the muster for the "bean counters." Of course this is just my conjecture as nothing else can explain this imbecilic abomination and utter refusal of Nissan to correct it. If ever one was to see how not to design diesel engine this is it. Its a mashup of various petrol engine 'know hows' with diesel bits thrown in from the bottom of the parts bin then checked per unit cost until cheapest is obtained. All the info we have stands. These mods don't save the engine, just postpone the inevitable. Thats it. BTW the comon rail versions of this abomination 'grenade' too! Regards
  14. Gday I have recently purchased a 2002 nissan patrol. Have been reading Alot about the zd30 (the grenade) engine blowing up most posts I have seen are posted back in 2012 just curious if there are any new ways to stop the engine blowing cheers
  15. Gday lads, wanting to know if any of you know any mobs around Melbourne that can mod the seat rails on my gq so I can get a little extra leg room. I’m 6’7 so some extra room in the old girl on the longer trips would be handy! Thanks
  16. tim

    What Oil?

    Nissan themselves recommend using 10w40 b3 in the zd30 non crd and the zd30 crd
  17. I am having the same issue, I am travelling at the moment, will call into a nissan and see If I can get the parts. It has been very frustrating as I changed my oil again to check the filter. It only happens each morning when the car sits over night. I ran a scan with scan gauge and there was a code P0522. - oil swnsor / low voltage.
  18. I am having the same issue, I am travelling at the moment, will call into a nissan and see If I can get the parts. It has been very frustrating as I changed my oil again to check the filter. It only happens each morning when the car sits over night. I ran a scan with scan gauge and there was a code P0522. - oil swnsor / low voltage.
  19. hi guys I have a tb42 turbo and need to lower the compression so I can run on 95 octane. i’m running 10.5 lb boost at 1800 rpm on 98 octane at the moment an I just put 2 head gaskets on? cheers sorry can i just put 2 head gaskets on ?
  20. Well you should be able to see MAF Voltages in Torque app. Monitor signals when it goes well and compare when not. Also check that vacuum connections to VGT are intact because any leak will retard the turbo vanes. When engine idles the actuator should be fully up, check when you have issues. Regards
  21. Hey guys! Help me out... I bought my car with only 31.000 km - it was made in December 2008 so it has a Common Rail engine. The car stud for around 9 months there - so I added some stuff to clean the injectors, I cleaned the MAF with a contact cleaner and so on. The behavior is quite strange though - I also connected the Torque App and I see the values from the turbo boost. Sometimes it works brilliantly and the turbo kicks in and it goes from 0.1 to 1.3 - 1.4 BAR - that is 20 PSI. The thing is, that after a long drive, during the drive, the turbo starts to die. The smoke behind turns black and the turbo pressure doesn't go up anymore 0.2 - 0.3 is max. The car is standard - no mods, no nothing, except for 33-inch tires, and a winch. A buddy of mine who had multiple patrols but with older engines told me that the last engine should have no limp issues and it should work normally and he suggested to change the MAF sensor. What is your opinion?
  22. G'day, IMHO it is the injection pump part. If only you had diesel injection specialist around who has Bosch scanner which will read internal pump ECU codes. That is the only fool proof way to identify if it is injectiom pump control circuit. Apparently someone was able to make his own DYI scanner. I had a link to it in the past..... If there is anyone to blame for this fiasco it is Bosch and the shyte they did where allegedly the stole this idea of radial injection pump and messed it up big time. VP44 is throw away design for which those responsible should be shot honestly. The story of Bosch VP44 epic fail is legendary, be it States, or in the UK most repair shops should be very familiar with it as it was very common in diesel powered Vauxhals/Opels/Audi etc of the late 90s early 00s. Japs bought in to it with Zexel and here we are with Nissan. Biggest killers of these pumps are heat and fuel starvation. Regards
  23. Hi thanks for your help. Firstly to investigate NATS or anything else at this stage i need to take Patrol to autoelectrician who already i talked through all the checks i done with NATS and the dash lights that it works with and everything was well and i was advised to take it to a mecanic as he said if it was kicking with starting spray it couldn't be something electrical. (His opinion) sure wouldn't you think that starting spray would fire anyway in any tight combustion chamber. I'm not convinced that using starting spray in the airbox shows us anything at all. Here is what i'm faced with and what i have done so far. 1/ Anyway, the real problem now is with no fault codes my options are running out. Should i take it to Nissan as there is a garage in the next county. The problem is it will cost me 80euros for a diagnostic check (Min cost depending on time spent at it) or with no codes present will they be able to tell me either what's wrong?? The tow truck and diagnostic day with nissan may not stop at 300euros! This is before the Patrol gets touched to be repaired at all 2/ Should i try the CAS sensor?? would it be worth changing out.. List of what i have done -Changed and primed a new Diesel filter (NO KICK) -Checked NATS with both keys (NO KICK) -Checked NATS light on dash by removing chip from key and trying to start (SOLID RED LIGHT STAYS ON DASH) -Used a made up funnel direct to IP (NO KICK) - Sprayed starting fluid in to airbox (KICKED,TRYING TO FIRE) I just don't know what to do next, my mecanic advised me on the phone it was the IP but this involves a tow truck and getting the Patrol to him, then is it going to be the IP after all that...why the hell is the stupid machine not giving me fault codes!!! lol Dan
  24. G'day, I don't know what is CAS! Argh, the acronyms Crank Angle Sensor ..... If main ECU claims no faults then you have to flash out codes from the pump ECU....... However, ZD30 are also known not starting if the cranking RPM are lower then expected.....I think that one applies to CrD more likely. There is a chance that pump ECU is not powering up so check that battery voltage is present at appropriate terminals and that ground connection is also sound. There is a guide on the net on howto force the IP ECU to power up in emergency and fire up the engine in the idle mode only. Here ===> https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests Bear in mind that these are for North Amercian 6 cylinder version of VP44 however the underlying method is corect as 6 cylinder version only difference is in the distributor and pumping element. Control side is identical apart from no external lift pump circuit on Nissan. Also ensure that wiring connections listed are as on your Nissan by checking wiring diagram in the Nissan manual which by now any selfrespecting Patrol owner should have already aquired. I'd also not discount the fact that NATS might have something to say about that too. Have your tried your spare key? Regards
  25. Hello all, Dan here from Limerick Ireland. Good to be here
  26. I need a Patrol guru... Ok firstly hello to all, some probably know me from the other forums. Ok a fast recap of my machine and then to get to my problem.I drive a DI 2004 Patrol it has never missed a beat. Yes the mileage is high now @ 280000miles (450000k's) all that was ever done was the clutch and solid flywheel conversion.So recently i came home from work and i had no engine lights, nothing wrong, pulling a good load of timber behind.Great power... well maintained Patrol. Never misses a beat and so i came home and switched it off,went in and had some lunch (probably one hour gone) and returned to go back to work and a NO START....cranking over but nothing... STRANGE... Ok so ahead are the things i have done but it is hell cause i'm getting no codes. 1/ I bridged the terminals 8 & 1 to get codes, i kept getting 0505 which is no faults detected!!! 2/ Took of fuel filter put on a new one with freshly filled diesel, got a good prime on the lift pump...NO KICK. 3/ Opened airbox used some starting spray GOT A KICK... trying to start. 4/ Done more diagnostics and got a code 0403 (Throttle position sensor) 5/ Changed throttle pedal and sensor (Still no START) 6/ About to change the CAS now I really don't mind putting money in to my Patrol,i suspect the IP as a possible failure too but i'm not sure what to change/check simply as i am getting no damn fault codes Any suggestions before i go mad!!! LOL ... Regards Dan
  27. Today I upgraded IPBoard to the latest release 4.4. Enjoy
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