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  1. Yesterday
  2. RENATO FERNANDEZ

    ZD30DD diesel pump

    Hi all, I have a serious issue and I require some assistance. I was driving along the highway and my vehicle's "CHECK ENGINE" light came on suddenly (no signs of overheating, RPM change etc.) then the engine died on me and the ignition lights came on. The engine tumbled fine but refused to start so I had to have the vehicle towed to my house and I got an electrician to run a diagnostic scan on it and a '"DIESEL PUMP ERROR" code came up. I was afterwards told that the sensor cannot be replaced or repaired and the entire pump has to be replaced. I am located in the West Indies and my mechanic is telling me that this can cost as much as US$1800.00!! That's a ton load of money to put out for an individual living in a small island in the throes of a DEEP recession. Are there any wizards out there who can confirm that the pump definitely has to be replaced or can this sensor be changed or repaired? Begging for some assistance or feedback please!!!
  3. Im2xtreem

    Diff breathers

    G’day kyoshofw05, I am planning a Cape York trip this July and my mate and I are going to both put in and make our own. We are using 6mm pneumatic tube https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-6mm-Outside-Dia-4mm-Inside-Dia-10M-Pneumatic-PU-Air-Tube-Hose/331556605113 with push lock fittings https://www.ebay.com/itm/232590768892 and pneumatic brass filters https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10PCS-1-4-BSPT-Thread-Pneumatic-Brass-Air-Exhaust-Breather-Muffler-Filter/254023910205.. We are simply using a small piece of alloy angle,, drilling 4 1/4” equally spaced holes in it. Put a brass filter in each hole scew the push lock onto the filter and tighten it to secure it all to the angle. That will then be screwed high up to the firewall and the the lines then run to both diffs analso the transmission and transfer cases. All up cost will be les than $40 each. Not bad considering most available kits cost around $100 for only 2 breathers. Cheers im2xtreem
  4. Last week
  5. Watching with great interest and would be interested in a cost breakdown as this is something I think a lot of us would love to do but are scared of the hole we assume it would leave in our pockets! Cheers im2xtreem
  6. Earlier
  7. Im2xtreem

    G’day from FNQ

    G’day guys, I have been a patrol owner for about 10 years but due to a nightmare engine exchange (not he exchange itself but the lead up and outcome) that ended with me moving from Canberra to Townsville with my reco’d zd30 but no patrol...long story! After 18mths of looking for the righ doner vehicle, I finally bought a GU series 2 with winch bar and winch, luggage rack, 32” LED light bar, light force driving lights, 3” exhaust, awning, cruise control, touchscreen 7” fold out stereo with gps, 3” lift and Wrangler Kevlar muddies (std size) for a great price. So, now I’m finally enjoying getting out and exploring all the great tracks her in and around Townsville and planning trips further afield like Cape York (July this year) in the north and Carnarvon Gorge in the west and Fraser Island and the Glass House Mountains in the south. Cheers Shayne (Im2xtreem)
  8. Does anyone have a diagram for how to wire in a new central locking module the drivers door locks indicators work but the rest of the car doesnt lock
  9. tonyfox1956

    Slow retractable seatbelt

    Buy a can of silicone spray, fully extend the belt, spray the belt sideways as to get both sides as you let it retract, job done!
  10. tonyfox1956

    oil pressure light on

    Wow again and thanks, the detailed explanations ,part numbers and diagrams surpasses my expectations.
  11. Rumcajs

    oil pressure light on

    The usual location of oil switches/sensors on ZD30 ===> Note bellow explanations refer to "common rail " version of ZD30 2007 onwards hovever the location is the same on previous model too. If you only have one than it is the one on LHS image. Which means no resistor either, easily checked by disconnecting the plug when engine run if the light is on it will go out..... Regards
  12. tonyfox1956

    oil pressure light on

    Wow and thank you very much , my problem is intermittent, and being a newbe I am not exactly sure what the designation is for this model hence does it actually have a second switch. 2004 patrol 3 litre diesel. I had a look at the exhaust side and couldnt find another switch? Any help with the location? I ASSume its on the other side (exhaust )? Many thanks and I dont think the resistor is bad as it is intermitant?
  13. Ryley

    Clunk Noise in 4x4 Drivers side

    Mate i swapped hubs to opposite sides and locked them manually. Still made the bad clunk noise on the same side (Drivers side). To me it sounds and feels like a car that is front wheel drive with a crook CV. I might be able to get access to a hoist and drive it on it. Will call a mate tomorrow.
  14. Rumcajs

    Clunk Noise in 4x4 Drivers side

    I'd lock hubs manually first to check. If it is CV then in most cases the clunk would be there only on full steering left or right lock. Personally I'd gut out auto hub lock clutch and be done with it if yours are auto locking hubs. That way it is on only when manual lock is engaged. If you have access to 4 axle stands then raise the vehicle of the ground and "drive" it that way so you pin point the source of the noise. Cheers
  15. Ryley

    4wd clunk

    Did you fix this problem and what was it? i have a clunk clunk clunk noise in my drivers side front wheel. i swapped my hubs from side to side and the problem stayed on the drivers side. So i dont think it is the hubs. Any info please?
  16. Hi folks. I have a 2002 GU. Last time i went to the bush for a wheel my drivers side started making a clunk clunk clunk noise. It is only when engaged in 4WD. I have swapped my hubs over and the noise stays on that side. Swivel hub has also now started leaking a little oil. Would this be a bearing issue? Or will it be the CV Axle that i need to replace. If i am going to replace axle i will also replace all seals and bearings. Any help on this would be really appreciated.
  17. Rumcajs

    oil pressure light on

    G'day, The switches are not same, and the resistor is upgraded one. What might happen is that the replacement switch will fail again due to the resistor. That is/was explicit warning on the Nissan repair bulletin. Part numbers: LHS switch ---> 25240-8996E (low side) RHS switch ---> 25240-2X90 (high side) One of the difference is that RHS switch is marked with green circle as well. I tried to swap them around as to what will happen and the oil light will not go out if the low side switch is on the high side! Regards
  18. tonyfox1956

    oil pressure light on

    I have since read on here this is a common fault, there are two switches on either side of the engine. Are the switches the same and I dont see any reason to replace the resistor if the switch is staying grounded. Thanks
  19. tonyfox1956

    oil pressure light on

    Hello, newbe here with a question. I have a 2004 Patrol 3.0 ish diesel with oil pressure light on when starting cold and wont go out unless you turn off and on several times? Switch sticking, is that a common fault? And part number if possible, May thanks for your observations
  20. Rumcajs

    please help 1997 2.8TD problems

    RD28 engine is notorious for warped engine head due to overheating and subsequent coolant loss..... White smoke is usually coolant being burned especially when doing it hot. The blue smoke is usually indication of burning engine oil. Having said that white or grey smoke can be also a symptom of unburned diesel fuel especially when cold due to glow lugs not operating properly. Coolant will leave "tell tale" traces where it leaks so if it is external leak you should be able to find it. If you can that means coolant is leaking in to combustion chamber of any cylinder. What is the engine oil like, does it look milky grey? Anyway, any mechanic worth its spanners would do following ..... Pressure test cooling system both when engine is cold and hot to find external leaks first. May be then start looking inside, take glow plugs out or injectors and carry compression test etc. Regards
  21. Hello every one, I have a 1997 2.8TD gu patrol, and I need help. the problems that she has are that she uses coolant and I cannot fined where the leek is. my local mechanic says that he doesn't think its the head gasket and I don't have wet carpets so I don't think its the heater. she has a water cooled turbo, could it be this ? the other issue is that when I start her she will pump out a big white/blue cloud and she will do this when she is hot or cold. She will also give a cough of blueish smoke with and hiccup in power when driving at low revs. she has recently had a dose of fuel bug which I have treated and I have change the fuel filter twice now. If you need more detail to help you help me, please just ask, as I have to keep her on the road and I don't think she will pass her next test (French control technique) Any advice to resolve these problems will be greatly appreciated Many thanks in advance from a stressed brit in France
  22. ShaneOwnsANissan

    hand Prime pump/possible air in fuel line question

    For anyone Following this topic; I changed the Fuel Filter and since, have not had any '0707 Injection Pump injection timing control' codes.It appears the fuel filter was over-torqued and the O-ring was was crushed which likely allowed air to be sucked in. Link to images showing Crushed O-ring and Filter contents: https://imgur.com/a/yOrUbqb Video showing how easily the filter O-ring would fold over where it appeared to be over-tightened: https://youtu.be/pqd6yAi9jB4
  23. Reved

    Qld based people in here!

    I live in dalby 1hr west of Toowoomba don't get out much as I work on the sunshine coast all week and come home on the weekend's (3hr drive each way )
  24. Reved

    CRD CLUB

    I have 2008 crd st ute . upgraded intercooler 3 inch exhaust 285 / 75 R16 a/t kumho's 2inch lift arb bullbar jackoff canopy with roof top tent
  25. It can also be caused by worn/loose worm gear in steering box . I had to tighten mine as I checked all bushes and bearings and there were still wobbles . once adjusted no more wobbles
  26. neet_wagon

    My rescued GQ

    Hey guys, recently stumbled upon this glorious (or not so glorious) sight out on a mates farm: It is, or was, a 1996 TB42e auto ST that was in excellent condition before it slide down the dam bank and was laid on it's side. It has a 3" lift (though someone has nicked the rear shocks - it'll be getting new ones anyway), and adjustable panhards from a rear which is a little bonus After a few choice words, and a lot of work we managed to get it ready for the tow truck to pick it up. After we got it home, I gave it a pretty decent wash, and set to work removing the barra from the falcon. It's just your standard BA barra with 160,000kms. Best bit is it owes me exactly $0 for the whole BA :thumbup: Whilst I toil away in the shed building the Barra loom and sorting out the Patrol loom from left over horrible DIY wiring and stuff I actually need I've decided to get a head start on the dual cab chop. And that is where it currently stands. Picked it up last weekend, and pulled the Barra out, and yesterday I chopped the back off it and today I'll tackle removing the interior and the many spiders that have taken up residence inside it! Total cost so far: BA Falcon $0 GQ Patrol $200 PCM unlock and security removal $150
  27. ShaneOwnsANissan

    hand Prime pump/possible air in fuel line question

    Wow, Thanks foir the detailed reply Rumcajs! I haven't yet changed the fuel filter however the previous owner said they did it right befoire i bought it, so thinking it could be a possibility. I've changed the majority of the fuel lines however the smaller line, it looks like i tightened the hoseclamp too much and it has a slight seep from the clamp. I'll start with the fuel filter as I've already bought a replacement and then look at the other suggestions. I'll update the thread with what the fix is. Thanks, Shane
  28. Rumcajs

    hand Prime pump/possible air in fuel line question

    G'day, 1. NO, because it is on the suction side and if it only takes several presses and it goes hard then that is normal behavior. 2. Yes, you can have air entering from the priming pump diaphragm Use of injector cleaner create sometimes more problems then it is worth. Did you change fuel filter as well? If you did, it is possible that the filter installation is not correct and it is bypassing the sealing or that extra "O" ring everyone ignores..... Anyway, this is a dreaded fault for anyone "lucky enough" to own vehicle with that abomination made by Bosch the VP44 radial injection pump. What you should really do is to check ICV % via Nissan "datascan" or ECU talk software and Consult cable while engine is running. Anything less then 35% duty cycle at idle indicates issues with fuel delivery to the pump. It should be around 50%-70% under load and on deceleration even higher. To identify issue with air in the fuel is very difficult. You will need to ensure that fuel lines are sound including steel lines and pick up in the tank. That's why it is essential to be able to compare ICV% values/readings as you perform diagnostics. * Change fuel filter in case it is blocked with what cleaner has created and bleed the system thoroughly first if you can. * Check/Decide if running new fuel lines and hose clamps might fix the issue *If problem persist create/make temporary clear see through fuel lines/hoses running from the pipe in the chassis to the filter and from filter to the pump so you can visualize what air if any is coming in. * if still there run the lines from spare jerry or bucket filled with clean diesel fuel to eliminate fuel lines leading to fuel filter depending on above step. * Depending on the outcome of previous checks try another fuel filter housing to eliminate priming pump diaphragm if the air in the fuel is still present. * If the problem persist it is possible that the injection pump is failling and the big bill is coming your way. If you have access to compressed air and are handy with creating temp blanking plugs then I'd disconnect the fuel line from the injection pump, blank its end and then disconnect line at the tank and pressurize the line with max 75-85 kPa and check for air leaks. That will tell you quite quickly if there is an issue with the tightness of the system. Also don't discount possibility for fault in the electrical harness on the pump. Good luck
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