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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/02/2012 in all areas

  1. 13 points

    NADS step by step guide

    GUIDE STATUS - IN DRAFT. Please check back for the full guide after I update this status. ------- Howdy all. Just reserving this thread so that I can post an easy to follow, step by step guide to installing the Nissan Anti Detonation mods for all to use. I'm just gathering all of the photos from my camera, taking some new photos and updating the parts and price list. ,.......... The Nissan Patrol 3L di engine can have a few modifications to make it more reliable and avoid the dreaded 'grenade'. This thread is not here to debate the reliability of the engine, or compare it to the 4.2 or petrol variants, its here as an easy to follow guide for anyone interested in doing the modifications. I have done these modifications to about 10 GU patrols now, and while I'm not a qualified mechanic I reakon I have it down pat. Many thanks to Chaz for teaching me. Any advice on this thread is just that - advice. I am not a mechanic so if in doubt ask first! WHAT IS NADS? NADS or Nissan Anti Detonation is a series of simple modifications that can be done to the di zd30 engine and exhaust to avoid the well documented issues with piston and engine damage. .... WHY SHOULD I INSTALL NADS? (Short version) There are 5 root causes for the zd30 engine failures. 1. Exhaust Gas Reticulation Valve (EGR). This valve recycles inert (but very dirty) exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold in an effort to reduce emissions. However the blank gunk deposited creates restrictions in the inlet manifold causing hot spots and starvation to mainly number 2 and 3 cylinders. See the install section for photos. 2. Oil Starvation. When the early engines came out, Nissan recommended that it only required 6 or so litres of oil. After a while they noticed many failures and "fixed" the problem by recalling the Patrols to shorten the dipstick. The correct amount of oil for the Di ZD30 is 8.3 Litres. The modified length of the dipstick is (edit)cm 3. Overboosting. The ECU on the early GU patrols doesnt control the boost very well. The GU patrol has a Garratt VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbo). The way this works is - the pitch of the blades of the turbo are changed to create more boost at lower exhaust pressure. Think about how a turbo prop planes engine works. At a constant rev range the power (or thrust) can be increased, decreased or even reversed by changing the pitch of the blades. Like a fan!. The ECU has a pretty big job on its hands trying to control boost at the best of times - different engine revs, different load, the EGR opening and closing (which increases boost in the inlet manifold, after the turbo that the ECU doesnt know about). Nissan introduced an overboost sensor to try and over come this. It basically measures the boost (in the intercooler) and if it stays over a certain psi (it seems different for many sampled patrols) if puts the car into limp mode. You will know if you have limp mode if you are driving along, and all of a sudden if feels like you have no power. If you release the accellerator and reapply, it resets. Very annoying! 4. High EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature). The Diesel engine is made to work. Good torque at low revs so you dont have to rev its guts out to get power. Its one of the reasons it is so fuel efficient compared to petrol engines) as a lot of the power is rquired just to get your 3T car moving! Obviously for the engine to run you need fuel and air and the combination of these can determine the temperature of the exhaust. Over fuelling or underboosting are common causes of high EGT. Why should i care about EGT? Well, at certain temperatures metals change caracteristics. They can get weaker (causing failure) or even melt! If your exhaust is glowing hot, think about how the pistons, cylinders, manifolds, oil and turbo are feeling! 5. Dirty or faulty MAF sensor. The MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) is a small device located just after the air filter which measures the volume, speed and temperature of the incoming air. If the sensor is faulty, the ECU can over or under fuel the engine, causing high EGT and failure. A common issue with MAF sensors is that they get oil on them. This is caused by the Crank Case Ventilation hose feeding back into the air inlet, just after the air filter. If you have a look on top of your engine, you will see the pipe coming from the top most part of the engine, it goes to the air inlet next to the passenger side battery. Oil mist causes the MAF to give incorrect readings. Regularly cleaning your MAF sensor, and fitting a good qulity catch can will certainly help. Its a simple thing that can be done relativly quickly. See the how to section for details. WHAT PARTS ARE NEEDED? WHERE DO I GET THEM? If you have read this far, you are probably keen to learn about what is included in "the mods" - Well here they are! What - Boost Gauge Why - Monitor what your turbo is doing. Easy to install, do it first. Where- Get a good boost gauge. It is the foundation of knowing what your engine is doing. myPatrol4x4.com.au vendors section (when it appears), Ebay, Patrol4x4.com vendors section or even your localauto parts shop. Dont get the el cheapo one - you will find yourself replacing it soon enough. I have a Garratt Boost Gauge. You dont need one that goes into vaccuum.. mine does but it doesnt really matter. What - EGT Gauge Why - Monitor your Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is just as important as the boost gauge. You will be impressed with the feedback it gives you about your driving style! Where - As above. I have a Auber digital gauge. I prefer the instant accurate feedback from the LCD display, but others prefer an analouge dial. What - EGR "Shim" Why - *CAUTION* Blocking your EGR is probably not legal in your state. EGR's can "Fail closed" . Blocking hte EGR not only helps to keep your inlet manifold and oil clean, it helps you to control the boost that your turbo is producing. Where - myPatrol4x4.com.au vendors section (when it appears), Patrol4x4.com vendors section, or make one up yourself What - Dawes Valve Why - A Dawes valve sets the upper boost limit. Where - http://3barracing.com sell them, as does some local 4x4 shops (at a outrageously inflated price, Shame!) If you have time get it direct from Darren Dawes at 3 bar racing - it might take 3 weeks but it might teach the local shops a lesson for being so greedy. We can also organise a group buy - post interest in the other section! What - Needle Valve Why - A needle valve controls the spool up rate of the turbo once we take away the ECU's control. "Spool Up" is the rate of increase of boost from the turbo. Too fast and you might get limp mode, too slow and you will lose power and have high EGT Where - Dependable Distributors in SA is where i got my Italian Needle valve. What - Catch Can Why - To filter the crank case ventilation pipe, keeping the MAF sensor and intercooler clean. Where - The Provent 200 is a great option, seems to work very well. Some people choose to buy cheaper catch cans with varied success in catching the oil mist. Have a look on ebay, or http://www.westernfilters.com.au - the kit comes with most needed things. What - Exhaust upgrade Why - Having a less restrictive exhaust improves performance, and lowers EGT Where - Most exhaust shops can knock something up, but i preferred to spend a bit extra and get a 2 3/4" Beudesert mandrel bent exhaust. The Catalytic Converter is 200ccm and it makes an impressive difference. Other Items that are not high priority, but make life better What - Intercooler upgrade Why - The standard Nissan intercooler has crimped ends. They will leak over time, its a common problem.. If this is happening to yours, you may notice black stains on the fins near the ends, or an unexplained loss of boost. Neither are good for your engine Where - If your wallet is bulging and you have 10 weeks up your sleeve to wait grab a Cross Country intercooler. ASETurbo are just down the road, they are cheaper and normally have them in stock. They also come with all new pipes and a fan. A few other places also recore intercoolers on ebay etc. When mine dies, ill go the ASE i think.. .... WHERE DO I START? So you have decided to go for it! Congratulations! It might seem daunting at first, but if we break it into chunks and take the time to learn what we are doing and why, it will make it a great learning experiance. Here is the order of how i would go about it... In the next post ill start to describe, in plain english with photos, how to eat this elephant! 1. Fit Boost Gauge. 2. Fit EGT Gauge 3. Fit Catch Can 4. Fit boost control In between each step i encourage you to DRIVE THE CAR and observe how each change makes a difference, more on that to follow..
  2. 9 points

    Forum Features

    Yes, the tick (like this) button is a way to 'thank' or 'like' a post rather than saying it.. So please people, use this rather than writing 'nice car' or 'nice post' etc - Lets keep this place as clean and to the point as possible.
  3. 8 points

    21 excellent in my profile

    like me, like me
  4. 7 points
    Fatboyz inc

    Funny Stuff!!!

    here is my contibution?
  5. 6 points

    Winch Protector

    I always like to keep things looking a bit subtle where posible, so after getting my much maligned Aldi winch, I wanted to do something a bit different with the installation. Specifically, I didn't want it to stand out, so this is what I ended up doing. The winch install is standard, but unlike many who modify the number plate mount so that it sits higher than the winch opening, I modified the number plate mount so that it covers the winch entirely: I simply removed the part that usually holds the number plate, part of the angle, and install two hinges on to the number plate and what was left of the existing bracket: The snatch strap is what holds the number plate down when not in use and is easy to undo when needed. The additional benefits of this modification are that the number plate no longer bends up when crossing rivers and it also keeps the fairlead, cable etc very clean, even when going through bog holes. Cheers Ray
  6. 6 points
    and fuckk yeahh, it has a like button
  7. 6 points

    2001 Gu failure

    4.2s are for people with no sense of adventure.. Every day with a 3ltr is a big adrenaline rush, every noise rattle boost spike or fall really gets that heart a pounding.
  8. 4 points

    Water injection.

    If yours is an NA like mine, that's what I have done. Drilled a 5mm Hole in the aircleaner lid right over the inlet and put the squirter right there. You don't need ( or can) pressurise the tank because there is no turbo. The VDO pump will squirt just fine. You'll also see when you start the WI the manifold insides are black and crappy fron the PCV gasses. After a tank or 3 ( especially with meth) you'll see the insides of the manifold look like someone polished them. Imagine how the head, valves piston crowns and ports look! After the water runs out the car still feels a lot peppier but in time if you leave the water empty the performance will have definately tapered off by the next tank.... on veg at least. The performance will then stabilise at something a lot more flat. The rubber laying effect is significantly reduced/ eliminated. The improvement in driveability off the juice is exaggerated with meth. The engine feels peppier for a lot longer and is a lot more pronounced. What the physical action is that's taking place to cause that I have no explaination. I would suggest that it is the engine running cleaner but I can't imagine the thing being fouled to that degree so quick when off the squirt as to lead to that much performance drop off. More over if it was fouling, the engine would stop within a couple of tanks so I don't see the engine internals being cleaner the whole explaination at least. Someone did suggest to me once that they thought it may have something to do with the exhaust and mufflers that the WI cleaned and then sooted up to a cetain level. That does hold a bit more likleyhood to me. I worked out a while back ( and providing memory is not failing me) that the extra energy from a 50/50 meth mix @ 300ml minute is conservatively 14Hp worth of extra fuel. Now that should take into account efficency losses and be pretty close to what you actually get at the flywheel. The other thing is how dialed up your engine is in the first place. Every diesel I have got my grubby mits on has been way underfueled from the factory. IF you have an IP thats not giving the engine all or near all the fuel it can burn, you'll get a big hit out of the WI just through the fueling effect. If you have it close to the amount of air the engine can cope with, then you may not be able to burn all the fuel and the effect won't be as great. I notice less of an effect since I turned my IP up but that's because I'm getting more power already. With a turbo where you could add fuel and keep the EGT's in check, then you'd really be able to get some benifit! The cleaning effect or whatever it is has on driveability however is significant on or off the juice so is well worth while there. Engines that haven't had water before also seem to have the most significacant and rapid improvement. My merc was transformed in the first couple of tanks of WI I used but i noticed very slight but constant improvements for about 3 months after the WI was fitted. The troll didn't have the same drawn out time frame. It took a few weeks to hit peak and that was it. Of course time is proportional to water pumped through. I may have been able to clean my engines well and truly in 4 hours with a drive up the country and a 20L tank of water/ meth. The most fun is the first few hits with the WI on. You'll see great clouds of black crap coming out the exhaust every time you hit it. Should only do it a few times though then the main crap must be gone and the rest is released more subtley. I had the WI running richer to start to the point of just stumbling after a while so it was cleaning best and then backed it off after a few tanks. You'll also notice yourself driving like a hoon flat out through the gears as the extra power gets addictive. One thing also to be aware of with the meth..... Again depending on the engine tune, you may get some nailing or rattling with the meth. This is either because you are running too high a mixture or just pumping in too much volume. Personaly I like to keep the volume up as it aids cleaning and cooling and just dilute the water/ meth mix. For those chasing power, you would want to stay at the 50% mix, ( don't go over, you are just fueling with Meth instead of diesel then) and ajust the volume. On my cheapo system, restricting flow is just a matter of pulling the zip tie around the line to the nozzle a click or 2 tighter. No expense spared I tell you. And In case I missed it before: Make sure you water tank is BELOW the level of your nozzle so the water can not syphon into your engine when it is shut off. A twit on another forum missed that obvious bit of engineering and then bitched at me that WI was no good and caused his engine to bend a rod. No idiot, your setup was no good and your stupidity caused your engine to bend a rod.
  9. 4 points

    Trouble with Patrol 4x4.com

    We don't need all of the narcissistic crap that was going on with the other forum here and admin would do well to take notice of this! I like it here because of this and the fact, that it is just starting up and getting it"s feet! Foo
  10. 4 points
    I can understand the desire to extract some form of profit from the efforts put in to establish and maintain this forum, but one important feature that will make or break the forum are its contributors. Rome wasn't built in a day and it's still early days and the forum needs to establish its credentials and like any business; it doesn't get that in a day or even in a year. So it may be prudent to consider a break even situation for a period of time, to build that cred and potentially get formal advertisers/supporters to the forum. Consider that the Patrol4x4 forum started off as a business venture, fizzled out somewhere along the line and was then maintained on a shoestring budget by a few dedicated moderators for quite a number of years. Domain name registration cost is a relative pittance, forum software is free/inexpensive, hosting costs aren't a huge impost, but will grow with increased bandwidth and personal input is a cost only the individual can attribute. I think taking what would be a relatively small monetary risk in the early days may well pay dividents in the long term. Cheers Ray
  11. 4 points

    Trouble with Patrol 4x4.com

    I think most of the knowledge base is much the same here as over there, so I doubt you'll be lacking any information that you might need. Sometimes a fresh start isn't a bad thing (funny that, coming from a conservative arsehole). Cheers Ray
  12. 4 points

    GU Rear Door Table

    Well, I finally got around to making the rear door table for the Patrol, after lots of planning and sourcing of materials. The total build time was around six hours, but there was also a bit of waiting for glue to dry and running around for bits and pieces, so the whole project took about three days. I wanted to make something slightly different to what others have made, so that the look is as close to factory as I could reasonably achieve with my limited workshop facilities (read basically none). This project was literally created on a Black and Decker foldout work table, and the kitchen and dining room tables (what I wouldn't give for a proper workshop. Here's the final result and I'll post the stages in a separate post. The only thing that I'm not satisfied with is the closing mechanism (currently a spring drawing together the wires that support the table); I'll be looking for something neat that I can use for a better lock. I'm also still tossing around what I want for the top of the table. The splashback is intentionally white so that it will reflect light onto the table. The total cost of this table is $91.51 in materials and consumables. This is what it started with, a sheet of 3mm thick aluminium: Then it was off with the existing liner to trace out the shape and mark the holes for the plugs: Once the shape and holes were marked (I used a pin vice first to mark the holes through the vinyl, so that it didn't leave any marks on the liner, and then centre punched the pin marks), then I outlined the cutout for the table: Once the holes were drilled and the centre cut out, I was ready to start the lining. Cutting out the centre piece was the most frightening thing, as one slip and it was start again. I used a 4" grinder with one of those 1mm thick cutting wheels to cut out the table. A note for those who may try this, when using one of these thin cutting wheels, don't try and cut through immediately, just gently move the wheel along the cutting mark, using a piece of staright steel or timber as a guide, and let the weight of the grinder work its way through: Time to test the farme on the door to ensure I got everything right. Spot on: Time to position the hinge and table on the frame. This was just a test to ensure that everything fitted correctly: The final stages involved gluing the matching vinyl to the frame and table. This took a bit of planning, as again, I didn't have any second chances to get it right. Yes I could have cut more vinyl, but then there was a huge mess of contact glue to clean off. This is how the frame came out and the table was much the same, so not point in additional shots: I stuffed around with various loking mechanisms, including velcro, but eventually ended up with this: It all works a treat. Cheers Ray
  13. 3 points

    Veg oil home heater.

    Lying in bed last night I got a brainwave. It happens every 10-20 years. I built a an oil burner a while back that works on draught alone. Burns pretty clean and puts out awesome heat though most of it of course is in the flue gasses rather than radiant. The thing is an old casserole type pot I cut a large hole in the top and sat an old fire extinguisher on that I cut the top and bottom out of and put a load of holes in the sides. On top of that I put a length of 4" Pipe. Around the edges of the lid of the pot I put 4 1" holes. The fire burns in the pot and gets the primary air through the 1" holes then goes into the secondary chamber where the air mixes pulled in by the draft of the chimney. It could use more holes in the Secondary chamber to burn perfectly clean but that would also dilute the flue gas temp and rich is hot... Just like a Diesel engine! So what I did today is get some 20L oil tins from a load I picked up on the weekend and fitted the 4" pipe right through the middle. With all the delicate skill and craftsmanship an unskilled person can muster with a wood chisel, a hammer and a pair of pliers, I cut a nice snug fitting hole to the top and bottom drums and the ends out of the middle one. On the bottom burner I fitted a squirrel cage Blower and on the top, I impressed myself by cutting a hole in a star design with the metal sections coming out so I had somewhere to tape the duct on. The blower wasn't quite strong enough to force the air through so I got an 8" in-line ventilator fan and put that on to act as a booster and put some more duct on that to take it inside through the cat flap. The blower merely blows air on the flue pipe which normally glows red for about the first 2 feet and the resulting warm air is blown in the house. The setup looks as redneck as Imaginable but stuff me if it's not about 30o in here and I have the burner running at about 1/3 power. It's using about 2L of oil an hour which is high because it's real inefficient atm but I can fix that. I'll add another 2-3 tins tomorrow on the flue pipe which is still uncovered and bloody hot. I think this will allow the burner to be throttled back some more and the same or better heat generated. 1L/ hr of oil generates about 30Kw so even with poor efficiency, that should keep the place nice and cosy. I have to say I'm a bit amazed at how well this works. Sure it's about 20% efficient ( 80% INefficient) ATM but it's a stack of oil drums with a stove pipe in the middle and a fan blowing air on it. The surface area to the cold outside air is far greater than the area exposed on the hot side. I have some insulation that will fix that. The extra drums will help as well. I'll take some pics tomorrow for a laugh and post them up. The thing is, this Pile of scrap could run on any waste oil you can get your hands on.... engine oil, tranny oil, Veg, hydraulic or even animal fat. All you would have to do is start the thing with some liquid oil, sit your drum of fat close by and it would melt the stuff as it burnt. The blowers I am using are about 150W and the amount of heat I could generate with this thing would melt the snow off the roof of a place if required. What it has opened my eyes to is how efficient something like this could be if a Dollar was actually spent on it. This thing will last me this winter then when I'm in new digs next winter I'll do something up properly. Perhaps the biggest achievement with this thing is I'm still in the house. The mrs came home and saw this " construction" sitting on her beloved back Verandah and wanted to know why the hell I had brought my chit onto her veranda and it better not be there tomorrow. She seems very happy to have it there right now and be sitting round watching TV in a T shirt instead of a jumper. We have air but I think shes enjoying having this thing turned right up without having to worry about what it's doing to the power bill. So far the only comment is can I put a duct in the wall so the animals can get in and out the cat flap? WINNER! Quite satisfying
  14. 3 points

    Linux - For who and why

    As a full time Linux user since 2004 I can recommend all content Windows and Mac users to stay away from Linux and enjoy the great outdoors. Amen.
  15. 3 points

    1 July 2012

    Politics is the biggest crock of Shit Played on the worlds population there is. The people that get in are done so through their merit in a popularity contest. You never see one of them in a campaign saying " My experience is this that and the other and I was able to increase the profits, decrease the expenditure, make this or that better through these innovations " Or anything like a real job candidate would have to put forth. IT's useless asking their intentions because they lie throught their arse and have no problem saying one thing before and doing a complete turn around as soon as they are in. The biggest qualification is who can smile best for the camera's, Kiss arse as well as babies and has the most friends in high places to bankroll their popularity contest. Not even decent looks are a remote requirement given how most of them look like complete dorks and nerds rather than leaders. If a hot chick ever ran for PM shed be in for as long as her looks held out no matter how blonde right through she might be. At least people could have a laugh and know her mismanagement wasn't deliberately screwing them over. Any sensible initiatives that may be put forward by overpaid consultants and advisers are always tarnished with what might be popular or put the most money in the pollies and friends in high places pockets. They lie and cheat and talk chit they Damn well know is not true than blame each other and carry on like school girls. The whole concept of politics is rotten to the core. The whole thing as far as I'm concerned is an insult to peoples intelligence. The best you can hope ( usually in vain ) for is the next lot of lying, thieving clowns you put in will by some miracle be better than the last lot. Generally those hopes are dashed quickly. The bit I love the most is by definition more people voted for them than didn't but 6 months to a year in no one will admit to having put them in. I have never voted for a major party, I usually vote for the nuttiest sounding on the paper because at the beginning Stage they are usually the most honest and by not having a hope in hell of getting in, I can thumb my nose at the whole pathetic joke without getting a fine sent to me for not voting at all. I wonder if when I move if I don't change my address or whatever I can get out of the whole miserable insult to my intelligence without getting copped. When those that are in charge of the country can show their actual skills, aptitude and ability for the job they are given, then maybe I'll take it seriously. Right now the kid at the drive through window at the local grease pit would have a better idea of running the country than the clowns we have in now or are likely to get in the future. How about we lead the world by having polies that will actually do the best for the country and the people rather than themselves or their self serving agenda's? Instead of showing the world our idiotic carbon crock, what about showing the most consistent economic growth, the most consistent standard of living increase, the lowest taxation, the highest employment rates, the best public health and aged care systems, the highest education standards, Lowest overseas deficit, the best sustained growth rates in industry, manufacturing, technology....... Fk, if they want to set examples there is no shortage of USEFUL endeavours they could embark on that would make us look good not like morons.
  16. 3 points

    lift kits

    I've used the OME 2" springs with the Comfort Shocks for years now and have found that combination to be excellent for ride and handling. I've had the OME standard shocks in the past (the ones they always try to install with the 2" kit) and found them to be extremely harsh. The Comfort Shocks have softer valving in the compression stroke, so you don't get the jolt (lift) on bumps like you do with most other shocks. I've done a 100,000+km on my current setup and still going strong. Cheers Ray
  17. 3 points

    Pin Stripes

    Responding to another post, I was reminded of the ever present danger of accummulating pin stripes while in the bush. I've found two things that help significantly in reducing, but not eliminating, pin stripes. The first thing is to ensure that you car has a very good coating of polish/wax, the best that you can afford, and keep it up to scratch (pun intended) by regular re-coats. The stuff that I use is Mothers, which comes in a three part application kit that cleans, prepares and coats the paintwork with a good layer of protection, and then only requires periodic updates with the waxing. Mothers also has a great product called Scratch Remover, which is one of the best products that I've ever used. It will clear away all of those brown and black marks left by branches on the paintwork, without removing huge swathes of paint in the process. After particularly aweful bush trips, the scratch remover is worth its weight in gold. The second thing is, when encountering dense bush, do not to drive fast. Go as slow as you can, so that the branches, bushes, etc have a chance of sliding as smoothly as possible over the bodywork, don't get caught in mirrors etc and slap the paintwork. On our last trip we went through scrub where at times we couldn't even see the sky, yet when I got back home and washed, scratch removed and polished the Patrol, the paintwork looks amazing. You can't avoid scratches, especially from dried blackberries and branches, but you can mimimise the effects considerably by slowing right down. I've done this when I had my GQ, which had a simply aweful quality paint job, and driven through what has effectively been low scrub akin to a scouring pad and come out to live another day. Anyone who has ever been down Corn Hill Tk from the back of Mt Buller to the Striling Rd (track now closed) will know what I mean. White paint of course helps immensely with keeping the outside looking good, but I have owned two silver Patrols and managed to keep them looking quite good by following the same principles. It's even more important nowadays to frequently wax your paintwork, as the paints used are water based and no where near as hard as the old solvent based automotive paints.
  18. 3 points

    What did you do to your GQ today!

    here you go..federal couragia 35-12.5-15
  19. 3 points

    Slow retractable seatbelt

    iv gotta pull mine apart, i might do a few pics with instructions.
  20. 3 points

    Going without ciggies...

    2.5 years off them now and was up to 30-40 a day. Best thing ever. Now wish I had never started. Dont even think about them now. Stick with it. Put $15 in a jar each day for a month, helps to remind you of the benefits. Do 20 pushups every time you think of a smoke.
  21. 3 points

    Car dealers

    Most of them are double wankers.. they couldnt be that stupid with just one dick.
  22. 3 points
    oh i almost forgot, i made this as well. My Daughter Zoe
  23. 3 points

    21 excellent in my profile

    What is it? In the green box on the right?
  24. 3 points

    21 excellent in my profile

    Is it something to do with how many times someone likes your posts, or how many posts you like perhaps? Sent from my GT-P7100 using Tapatalk 2
  25. 3 points

    21 excellent in my profile

    But it thinks u r 7 more excellents than me and that's a load of crapolla..... Seriously what's the deal?
  26. 3 points

    21 excellent in my profile

    maybe the forum thinks you are excellent?
  27. 3 points

    The Lost Steak

    No! I don't want to be the meat in the sandwich and I don't have any beef about this article, but I wil steak out this report until the cows come home. If you've herd anything, milk it for what it's worth. Cheers Ray
  28. 3 points
    yep: - and they use Crees.... http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=280861645194
  29. 3 points

    GU speaker replacement

    a few more,
  30. 3 points

    other forum

    One thing I suggest that members here who get banned dont do is to stir shit about it.. There is no point starting a bloody war.
  31. 3 points
    Just needs a "you're a twat" button and I would never get any work done! Hahaha
  32. 3 points

    P4x4 upgrade

    I actually like this forum!
  33. 3 points

    A basic Guide to Using Veg oils as Fuel.

    Running a 4.2D on veg oil. The 4.2 is a great candidate for veg oil use. Having inline or rotary Bosch pumps, IP failure is not an issue. I have been running my ’88 NA engine with 560K km on straight veg and blends with NO modifications ( other than a lift pump) for about a year now. I did have a Heat exchanger installed but due to it being too restrictive once I turned up the IP, I have bypassed and haven’t worried about it. I will probably try to fit a larger one this winter. When I first got the Vehicle near the Qld border, I merely purchased a spare fuel filter, pumped up the tyres, topped the tank off that had about 20L of Dino in it with Veg oil and drove the thing back to Sydney without a hitch. I ran round in june- july with the thing dead stock and just adding 10% petrol. I later added a heat exchanger and CAV fuel filter as well as a Walbro fuel pump. In summer I run on mainly straight oil but add 5% petrol when I remember which helps with performance on oil. I recommend a 5% min blend all the time. The petrol helps bring the ignition speed of the oil back closer to that of Diesel and makes a big difference in power and Torque. Personally I wouldn’t bother running one of these on a 2 tank setup. 2 Years experience has been enough to tell me it is in no way necessary unless you live in a climate where it regularly gets to zero. When it did, I’d just run high ratio Blends of petrol and dino for a couple of months till the temps came up again. My experience with my NA engine when turning up the IP was that the lift pump on the IP struggled to pull sufficient fuel through. I fitted a walbro pump and it made all the difference. I also replaced the OEM fuel Filter with a CAV filter for cost and ease of availability. That said, the OEM filters seem to have much more dirt holding capacity and less flow restriction. To run a 4.2 on oil requires nothing much more than pouring in clean, dried veg and go as long as the ambient temps are around 15 oc or above Most of the time. At this time of year I would suggest adding 10% Unleaded. One could also add a flat plate heat exchanger ( FPHE) to the fuel line to help thin the fuel. This is most beneficial in melting any fats that may accumulate in the filters and block the fuel flow. That said, If the oil is processed correctly, there will be little to no fat drop out anyway. Heat exchangers are available on ebay for around $100. A 20 or 30 plate is sufficient. For optimum performance on veg, the timing can be advanced 5 degrees on stock. I have never bothered with this myself but for those with a power thirst it will make a small difference.
  34. 3 points

    Recovery Kit ideas.

    Ray, That shovel is good for maybe burying one of my shits, but your going to need somthing bigger than that to dig out my 4x4.
  35. 3 points
    Why not put them into the trips section, as that's really where state based activities/issues are most relevant and makes it easier to find what's going on. Cheers Ray
  36. 3 points

    Can you cut an antenna?

    small screw in for round town.
  37. 3 points

    Admin wont be around tonight

    U know ur on a good thing when admin tell u when they will be in and out
  38. 3 points

    Qld based people in here!

    Hey Lads, Drew here, I'm in Everton Park. North side of Brisbane... if this takes off we should all join up for a wheel and "wet the babies head"
  39. 3 points

    -Hello. . . is anyone in there?

    yeah, its not likely to be fixed imo. . . i spent half the day reading yesterday, hacking it and taking it off terry is easy'ish, but quite illegal. and i dont think anything has changed his mind about letting it go. so it wont happen. forum software is 3years old! Lets pull together and make a go of it here fellas. ill put my name down as a stay, if the other forum goes down. . . . . lets save what we need to and get on with it.
  40. 3 points

    GQ Extra cab

    Got some rancho rs9000 adjustable shocks showing up maybe this weekend, they measure 930mm open and 545mm closed that hell beats my tuff dogs at 500mm closed and 760mm open. When i weld in my new drop out cones im going to incorperate a bump stop in the bottom of the cone which should work out perfect for the new shock lenght at full closed and im going to use standard GQ fronts in the rear, should come out a dirty treat when finished
  41. 3 points

    What did you do to your GQ today!

    I looked at mine and said maybe tomorrow darling lol.
  42. 3 points

    Rear power panel for GU

    Yet another variation on a theme..... I ran power from the second battery to the rear yesterday for a fridge and whatever else. By spending an hour or so making the panel blank and sourcing the voltmeter and Merit sockets, I saved around $120 compared with commercial equivalents. Panel is a piece of plastic around 2-3mm thick. I recycled an old document tray but anything you can get your hands on will be fine. Needs to be thin enough that the clips on the meter, switch and original clip will go all the way though. Cable is two runs of automotive 6mm back to a fuse panel under the passenger kick plate. I also have a totally separate run along the chassis of 6 B&S for the Anderson plug to the camper. Voltmeter is a two wire unit off ebay for about $7 delivered. Jaycar sell the same one for $25. When buying, it's easiest if it is a 2 wire, self powered meter rather than having to have a separate power supply. Switch is momentary action. I bought a 2-way thinking the existing lighter socket was easily accessible so I could measure the main battery voltage but it isn't. Adrian
  43. 3 points
    green troll

    UHF noob

    I had a seniors moment once when swaping aerials in my tin shed. Enough said. Sent from Brett's Galaxy using Tapatalk
  44. 3 points

    UHF noob

    Yeah just check that you haven't shorted out the antenna wiring. In Adelaide you will normally find some mentally challenged dole bludger whining about something on one of the repeater channels.. 1 for Salisbury and 3 for glenelg. If its too quiet they are spamming up ch 10 or 40. That is, if the truckies haven't found him and set fire to his house or knee capped him with a tyre iron. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
  45. 3 points

    Great new site!

    Hi folks, another 'migrated' member here. This site looks good and I've already seen quite a few familiar lurkers Well done to slim for taking the initiative. Won't be giving up on the other site, but it's nice to hedge your bets. Cheers.
  46. 3 points

    New Logos on the way...

    Another logo update - This time its not just a GU. No one bothered to send me any pictures so my designer picked cars at random.
  47. 3 points

    23 members

    i joined that nissanpatrol forum ages ago and it was crap (just my opinion) then i found patrol4x4 and loved it there its a shame its dying in the arse cause the virus crap i still go visit it even tho i put my comp at risk everytime just hope all the lads follow suit and come this way as there is a ton of very nice and honest helpful guys amoung the forum and hope all the up em self rude pricks go the other way
  48. 3 points

    NADS step by step guide

    INSTALLING THE BOOST CONTROL Ok so now we have our gauges and catch can installed its time to install the boost control. Before you install it i hope you have driven your Patrol and taken note of how the boost and EGT is behaving. When you accelerate does your boost come up fast, drop down to near 5psi and then climb back up to near 15 - 17psi? What is the maximum spike and sustained boost you are reading? At times does your boost do a coles (go down, and stay down) What are your EGT's around town, on the highway, climbing a hill. How does changing down or up a gear affect EGT? What is the Max EGT you are reading? Any other observations? Before we install anything, lets run through what we are going to do, the components used, what they do, and what we expect to change. What are we about to do? We are about to use a couple of devices to take the control of the boost away from the ECU to give us a more linear, controlled boost resulting in lower EGT and more power. What do we use to do this, and how do they work? Dawes Valve. A dawes valve is a device which limits the maximum boost that the turbo produces by limiting the VNT Actuator rods travel. As decribed in the first post a VNT turbo adjusts the pitch of the blades in the turbo to produce more or less boost as required. This is done via a rod which opens and closes the vanes. The rod is connected to a diphram, which is controlled by vacuum applied to the other side. By limiting the maximum boost we can set the turbo to produce a precise boost, avoiding limp mode and damage to the engine by high boost. Needle Valve. A needle valve controls the rate of spool up that the turbo produces. Spool up can be thought of "how fast the turbo goes from producing no boost, to its maximum boost as determined by the Dawes Valve". Why do we care about this? Well, if the spool up is too slow the turbo doesnt produce enough boost to keep up with the load on the engine, which will cause it to appear sluggsh, and high EGT. If the spool up is too high the dawes valve may not operate in time to limit the boost to its maximum preset boost, causing performance issues when the overboost drops the vacuum (limp mode). Also, too fast a spool up can cause turbulance in the exhaust, which is not so good. If you are going the whole hog and doing your exhaust upgrade, and EGR block you can either do that now to save you reconfiguring again, or do it later, it doesnt matter (depending on your cash flow by this stage, and time). Ok lets start. First things first. Make sure you have everything. You will need a Dawes Valve kit, a needle valve kit, any extra 1/8 pipe you can find, an extra 1/8 t-piece, cable ties, sidecutters, and your boost gauge fitted and operational. Dont chop anything until you have read the following several times and fully understand it. Also, if it is going to rain, a swarm of bees are approaching or you are supposed to be going to a wedding in an hour, perhaps wait until you have more time. The first thing we are going to do is to fit the needle valve. It is put inline with the VNT actuator and the vaccum pump. It also tees to the boost gauge on the non limited side. Have a close look at the next photo. Spot the Dawes valve? The non-teed end has a short pipe connected to a t-piece (hidden by the blue pipe, ill get another photo). This t piece is inline with the boost gauge line. The teed end of the dawes valve gets put inline to the pipe which goes to the VNT actuator (the silver thing on top of the turbo). The pipe heading towards us goes to another t-piece. Phew, still with me? Ok, so where do these other pipes go? One of them goes to your vacuum pump. It was the line that was going straight to the VNT Actuator. The other pipe is going to head towards the front of the car, and end up in the needle valve. Here is the second t-piece going to the needle valve Here we are connected to the needle valve and finally into the airbox. note the blanked off ports to the left, under the pipe Can you tell which one is my engine bay, and which one is someone else's? Adjusting the controls Ok so you have the gear fitted. How do we calibrate it? Remember how i said its important to monitor whats going onould like to achieve is a nice linear boost curveto a safe level. This will increase performance, lower EGT and keep your engine from going into limp mode. First things first - what is your boost doing? is it too high, too low, or just right? When you accellerate, how fast does the boost spool up? If you boost is going above 15psi, you need to adjust the dawes valve by screwing it in 1/4 turn at a time and re testing. If you boost isnt making 15 psi (with the needle valve closed) you need to wind it out. If after winding it out you still cant make 15psi, you may need to remove the Dawes valve and stretch the spring a tad. Once you have got the max boost set, its time to control the spool up. Experiment by loosening the hex key that locks the needle valve, and adjust it 1/4 turn at a time. Take the car for a drive and see what it has done. Opening the needle valve slows down the spool up, closing it speeds it up. -- WHAT HAVE WE LEARNT?
  49. 3 points

    Rust in rear barn door seal.

    Hi all. I thought I would start with this one. After looking at alot of GU patrols, It seems like a common issue. If you open up both rear barn doors, then look up towards the rear roof of the car, there is a black rubber seal. It is mostly a lip seal with two balck plastic"scrivets"? holding it in place. It would pay to pull back the seal and have a look at the lip it joins to and check for rust. Mine is just starting to go, but have seen some real bad ones where the lip has mostly gone. cheers Pete
  50. 3 points


    I only started this place as it seemed that patrol4x4 was going to be a dead duck. Im not interested in advertising to push this place - Its just somewhere to go for the existing members of patrol4x4 should it go tits up. I run a hosting business, so server resources are not an issue. Sure I may take advertising revenue one day if the site gets busy... But thats only natural. Basically, im only interested in keeping this going if the mods over at patrol4x4 want to migrate across - they can run this place just like they did the patrol4x4 site - this time thou, they will have a reliable uptodate server. and a host they can contact if shit hits the fan.
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