ark

Well, I finally got around to making the rear door table for the Patrol, after lots of planning and sourcing of materials. The total build time was around six hours, but there was also a bit of waiting for glue to dry and running around for bits and pieces, so the whole project took about three days.

I wanted to make something slightly different to what others have made, so that the look is as close to factory as I could reasonably achieve with my limited workshop facilities (read basically none). This project was literally created on a Black and Decker foldout work table, and the kitchen and dining room tables (what I wouldn't give for a proper workshop.

Here's the final result and I'll post the stages in a separate post. The only thing that I'm not satisfied with is the closing mechanism (currently a spring drawing together the wires that support the table); I'll be looking for something neat that I can use for a better lock. I'm also still tossing around what I want for the top of the table. The splashback is intentionally white so that it will reflect light onto the table. The total cost of this table is $91.51 in materials and consumables.




This is what it started with, a sheet of 3mm thick aluminium:



Then it was off with the existing liner to trace out the shape and mark the holes for the plugs:



Once the shape and holes were marked (I used a pin vice first to mark the holes through the vinyl, so that it didn't leave any marks on the liner, and then centre punched the pin marks), then I outlined the cutout for the table:



Once the holes were drilled and the centre cut out, I was ready to start the lining. Cutting out the centre piece was the most frightening thing, as one slip and it was start again. I used a 4" grinder with one of those 1mm thick cutting wheels to cut out the table. A note for those who may try this, when using one of these thin cutting wheels, don't try and cut through immediately, just gently move the wheel along the cutting mark, using a piece of staright steel or timber as a guide, and let the weight of the grinder work its way through:



Time to test the farme on the door to ensure I got everything right. Spot on:



Time to position the hinge and table on the frame. This was just a test to ensure that everything fitted correctly:



The final stages involved gluing the matching vinyl to the frame and table. This took a bit of planning, as again, I didn't have any second chances to get it right. Yes I could have cut more vinyl, but then there was a huge mess of contact glue to clean off. This is how the frame came out and the table was much the same, so not point in additional shots:



I stuffed around with various loking mechanisms, including velcro, but eventually ended up with this:





It all works a treat.

Cheers

Ray

Hi Guys i will attempt to throw up as much detail as i can.
This is the table i made for my GUII. Should be same for other models but double check sizes first.
Being stainless means it is easy to keep clean, and you can also put hot things striaght onto it if need (billy, camp oven, pots etc)
I use it as a chopping board and everything.

Materials
1.2mm stainless splashback 865mm x 420mm(got from sheet metal place)
1.2mm stainless table 820mm x 415mm with 7mm folded and welded edge (got from sheetmetal place)
1 peice of 7mm ply 900mm x 450mm (trimmed to fit under table)
Contact adhesive
1 Piano hinge ( i used stainless one)
Marine carpet to cover ply
2 wire eye straps
1.2mm stainless leader wire (got from BCF)
Wire crimps (got from BCF)
1 Latch (as in pictures)
Rivits.

Tools
Screwdrivers
Grinder with thin cutting blade
Rivit gun
Drill
Paint brush (cheap)
Circular saw
Stanley Knife
Pliers or crimpers

Now i apologise that i do not have any pics of me actually making this, don't think about this till after. I did get a few midway though.

Cut plywood to size to fit on underside of table and glue in with contact adhesive. I clamped it and sat weight on it overnight till it dried.
Drill 3mm hole in edge in prep for wire stays later

When that is done cover ply with marine carpet.

Remove plastic trim at top off door.
Remove door trim if you wish and to look at were wires etc are.( I fitted my splashback over the door trim as it the slashback doesnt cover the whole door. about 40mm short at the bottom, so when table is fitted it does not foul on pinch mould when door is closed.

Hold Splashback into postion and mark the top righthand edge to trim off with the grinder. (edge of door angles back in)

Once back is cut and happy with where it will sit on door( Mine is **mm short from bottom and sits just high enough that the plastic trim when refitted will sit over the top edge),

attach the hinge to the "Table" side first.

I wanted it so you didn't see the hinge, so all you see is the knuckle. So the hinge is fitted to the table through the back egde with rivits. It is fiddly as you only have 7 mm to work with.
Once done, Hold the splash back under hinge and mark holes piano hinge and drill. (only as many fixings as you wish. I did every hole)
Fit slashback to door using only a couple off rivits at top to start with.
Then you can fit table and hinge to bottom of splash back. You want the hinge to go behind the splash back, and attach with rivits in 2 holes only. You can do all rivits once all fitted and fit splashback to door. (i used 3 rivets down each side and a few across the top

Have a piece of timber to support table

With the top trim still off you want to fit these to top of door frame with rivits

and cut slots in trim where needed and mark holes for latch (i put thin peice of ali on back of trim for something the screws could bit into) and refit. Attach leader wire to table using crimp and feed though eye at top at fit off a required length with crimp

Close top and fit latch to bottom of table


Finished Product




I also fitted LED Strip to around top of door frame before i did the table.

ENJOY


Cheers olly
Hope you can all make sense of all that scribble.