Tines Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 Well Hi guys I’m new here & am DESPERATE for HELLLLP! Ok here we go I apologise in advance for the way in which I am describing my issue as I honestly don’t have a clue about what is wrong. Also it is loooong winded story. My uncle has helped me describe what's wrong. Car: 2008 GU V Patrol wagon CRD 3.0L Manual Mods: 2” Lift Kit & Longranger 145L fuel tank Has a 2011 3.0L CRD engine with 126,000kms Future Ventures: 4 x ARB BP-51 Shock Absorbers Itech Dual Lithium Battery set up Raslaar Dual Wheel Carrier Runva 11xp Winch Bush Company 270 max awning 4 x Stedi Quad Pro Driving Lights on roof Stedi Type X Pro Driving Lights Stedi LED H4 Headlight upgrade Stedi 40.5” Curved Lightbar Stedi 22” Lightbar Dyno Tuning Ultimate Diesel Tuning Gold Coast L & R Emuwings History: Seller told me (so yes I knew it had an issue) that the engine had been replaced with a 2011 3.0L CRD engine with 126,000kms on it & that when he drove it it was surging & they lived on a quarter million acre property & needed something reliable so was selling it. Got to Coffs Harbour and low & behold it was surging. Took it to mechanic they fixed surging issue ( so I no longer Kangaroo hop down the road). I was told it now lacks power. Whilst driving home I decided to go up a hill & it crawled up it at 20kms when I drove on the Highway it hit 2000rpm 60kms & lost power (My Grandmother could move faster than me & she’s been dead for 30 years 🙂 Once I backed off & accelerated again it was fine until 2000rpm again. Everything on the engine is from that 2011 engine nothing has been removed. Previous owners changed Oil, Water, brake, power steering, gear fluids, all the injectors are new, new MAFs, new Fuel & Oil Filter, new hoses to intercooler & filters. My uncle checked out the wastey thingy it opens fine. The only thing that isn’t in it from the 2011 engine is the ECU & the wiring loom (that is still from the original 08 engine). When my cuz put the ECU in it wouldn’t start period. The old engine ECU is back in & working. Do I need to put the 2011 wiring loom in & 2011 ECU in for it to work properly? Any help would be appreciated please. So far it has cost me $300 a mechanics & $1800 to transport it from Darwin & a lot of stress. I love my new truck & just want to go camping 🏕 with the Grandkids. TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumcajs Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 Hello, Technically speaking I'd seek to identify as what causes it to loose power at particular RPM. Is it limps in cause it is having faulty reading from its sensors? You will need to know what boost pressure, fuel rail pressure, MAF airflow etc to be able to identify or pin point the cause. Is TPS sensor working correctly, does ECU see 100% throttle? Anyway, what was cause of the surging? Another point is to check if VNT actuator goes fully up when engine is idling, there is no vacuum leak in th eactuator circuit and so on... Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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