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Rumcajs last won the day on September 22

Rumcajs had the most liked content!

About Rumcajs

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  1. Rumcajs

    oil pressure light on

    The usual location of oil switches/sensors on ZD30 ===> Note bellow explanations refer to "common rail " version of ZD30 2007 onwards hovever the location is the same on previous model too. If you only have one than it is the one on LHS image. Which means no resistor either, easily checked by disconnecting the plug when engine run if the light is on it will go out..... Regards
  2. Rumcajs

    Clunk Noise in 4x4 Drivers side

    I'd lock hubs manually first to check. If it is CV then in most cases the clunk would be there only on full steering left or right lock. Personally I'd gut out auto hub lock clutch and be done with it if yours are auto locking hubs. That way it is on only when manual lock is engaged. If you have access to 4 axle stands then raise the vehicle of the ground and "drive" it that way so you pin point the source of the noise. Cheers
  3. Rumcajs

    oil pressure light on

    G'day, The switches are not same, and the resistor is upgraded one. What might happen is that the replacement switch will fail again due to the resistor. That is/was explicit warning on the Nissan repair bulletin. Part numbers: LHS switch ---> 25240-8996E (low side) RHS switch ---> 25240-2X90 (high side) One of the difference is that RHS switch is marked with green circle as well. I tried to swap them around as to what will happen and the oil light will not go out if the low side switch is on the high side! Regards
  4. Rumcajs

    please help 1997 2.8TD problems

    RD28 engine is notorious for warped engine head due to overheating and subsequent coolant loss..... White smoke is usually coolant being burned especially when doing it hot. The blue smoke is usually indication of burning engine oil. Having said that white or grey smoke can be also a symptom of unburned diesel fuel especially when cold due to glow lugs not operating properly. Coolant will leave "tell tale" traces where it leaks so if it is external leak you should be able to find it. If you can that means coolant is leaking in to combustion chamber of any cylinder. What is the engine oil like, does it look milky grey? Anyway, any mechanic worth its spanners would do following ..... Pressure test cooling system both when engine is cold and hot to find external leaks first. May be then start looking inside, take glow plugs out or injectors and carry compression test etc. Regards
  5. Rumcajs

    hand Prime pump/possible air in fuel line question

    G'day, 1. NO, because it is on the suction side and if it only takes several presses and it goes hard then that is normal behavior. 2. Yes, you can have air entering from the priming pump diaphragm Use of injector cleaner create sometimes more problems then it is worth. Did you change fuel filter as well? If you did, it is possible that the filter installation is not correct and it is bypassing the sealing or that extra "O" ring everyone ignores..... Anyway, this is a dreaded fault for anyone "lucky enough" to own vehicle with that abomination made by Bosch the VP44 radial injection pump. What you should really do is to check ICV % via Nissan "datascan" or ECU talk software and Consult cable while engine is running. Anything less then 35% duty cycle at idle indicates issues with fuel delivery to the pump. It should be around 50%-70% under load and on deceleration even higher. To identify issue with air in the fuel is very difficult. You will need to ensure that fuel lines are sound including steel lines and pick up in the tank. That's why it is essential to be able to compare ICV% values/readings as you perform diagnostics. * Change fuel filter in case it is blocked with what cleaner has created and bleed the system thoroughly first if you can. * Check/Decide if running new fuel lines and hose clamps might fix the issue *If problem persist create/make temporary clear see through fuel lines/hoses running from the pipe in the chassis to the filter and from filter to the pump so you can visualize what air if any is coming in. * if still there run the lines from spare jerry or bucket filled with clean diesel fuel to eliminate fuel lines leading to fuel filter depending on above step. * Depending on the outcome of previous checks try another fuel filter housing to eliminate priming pump diaphragm if the air in the fuel is still present. * If the problem persist it is possible that the injection pump is failling and the big bill is coming your way. If you have access to compressed air and are handy with creating temp blanking plugs then I'd disconnect the fuel line from the injection pump, blank its end and then disconnect line at the tank and pressurize the line with max 75-85 kPa and check for air leaks. That will tell you quite quickly if there is an issue with the tightness of the system. Also don't discount possibility for fault in the electrical harness on the pump. Good luck
  6. What a mess! Soldering wires if done properly should not affect readings however soldering is not performing well under mechanically stresed connections. If I was repairing that loom I'd make intermediate plug/crimp joint in the wires but thats me, even RAAF teaches its technicians that "soldering is for PCBs and crimping for cables and I had same training for my trade from the vehicle manufacturers.... As with the chip your best bet if you really want to know is to expose its internals aka check the PCB with all the electronic hardware. Like this one ==> Essentially repackaged DTE chip the grand daddy of them all. Anyway, yours seems awfully like the DPU system or Diesel Power Unlimited I found the link to to it on Russian E-bay (DPU chip) Regards
  7. G'day, For which model of GU is this unit for? Is it for ZD30 VP44 injection pumps? The sad reality is that for the most if not all of these aftermarket "piggy back" controllers is that they're usually repackaged same electronics from just one manufacturer. As for the plugs or perhaps entire loom the best chance is to go to wreckers. Technically they should also be available as spare parts but the cost is usually very high. Regards
  8. Rumcajs

    Noob Victoria

    G'day, Welcome to the forum, feel free to share your thoughts, tips whatever. Regards
  9. Rumcajs

    jaguar 4.2Lt v8 conversation

    Gday, welcome, Hmm, interesting choice of an engine, I have personally never heard of such conversion and can only speculate following: Being a Jag motor I can only imagine the astronomical costs of everything for it and also given they're such niche vehicle the parts availability might be a problem. Since no one has probably contemplated such conversion there will be zero aftermarket parts available for it too so everything would have to be custom fabbbed for it.... The reason why GM LS series engine conversion are so popular is because the parts are plentiful and there are number of vendors who supply ready to bolt on adapters, brackets and what have you which makes the whole project much more manageable plus so many people have done it that help/advice is freely available. Regards
  10. Rumcajs

    Nissan 2005 Patrol wagon

    G'day, Every logical explanations points to not being the air cleaner or fuel filter, however I do recommend to inspect and change as contaminated air cleaner will foul MAF sensor and contaminated fuel filter will ruin the fuel system and indeed ZD30 of 2005 and earlier vintage has a very weak and fragile injection pump which doesn't tolerate such issue very well and for long. So, if the engine doesn't seem to labor or appears under heavy load like after the fault occurs (hence how it freely revs up stationary) we can discount exhaust blockage (sometimes exhaust catalyst can be faulty and as it heats up it can collapse and cause exhaust restriction which is usually manifested by lack of power and a lots of black smoke. But that wouldn't clear after 1 minute engine off scenario either.... However to be able to actually do any diagnosing you do need to see what the engine is doing, e.g turbo boost at the point of failure, engine sensors reading (MAF voltages vs RPM vs TPS position) So in the case of turbo boost there is clear relationship between power output, smoke output so if the values don't support healthy operation one can start pin point the probable cause. Because your vehicle is stock it will be very difficult without an access to engine telematics to ascertain anything. The only thing you can do is to check under the hood when stationary and even then only visual checks. This what I would do if it was happening to mine, and I do have ability to read engine sensors on the fly and have extra boost gauge and exhaust gas temperature probe and gauge installed. Using ECU Talk LCD interface I would scan boost pressure and MAF voltage vs TPS% and turbo actuator% and injection pump timing solenoid% while also observing EGT temps. Low boost will increase EGTs under heavier load and I will also be able to see MAF voltages and be able to deduce if there is an issue with either system. As an example faulty MAF signalling can affect the way ECU controls fuelling and that in effect can cause smoke, lack of power etc. I would change air and fuel filters, run engine at the idle when there is no issue and check the VGT actuator (turbo) is fully up and re-check it again when the failure occurs ( this could indicate that either the control system is malfunctioning, or there is vacuum leak under the specific conditions.) I would check and also disable either temporarily or permanently the intake swirl control circuit just in case it accidentally jams closed restricting the intake (which can have the effect you're experiencing.) Another step I'd do would be to disable EGR circuit to see if that is playing up however that opens up another can of worms for those who don't grasp the concept. Faulty EGR valve which fails to close intermittently can cause similar symptoms you are experiencing. Basically something is interfering with proper way the engine air induction, fuel quantity and exhaust extraction is functioning. It could be either wrong input causing wrong output (or bullchit in bullchit out) or intermittent failure of control circuit for either of those systems. Regards
  11. Rumcajs

    NADS step by step guide

    Okay, each to their own..... technical facts are that water to air inter-cooling is not as efficient as air to air systems. Unless you are planning completely self closed system independent of engine cooling system where the cooling liquid medium is also something else then water the air to air system is better. Pure fact is that inter-cooling or heat exchanging via engine coolant will always stop at engine operating temperature in this case 87°C to 89°C vs air inter-cooling which at its worst will be usually at 20°C above ambient air temperature so even in the extreme outback scenario of 50°C ambient air temperature the air intake temperature is at 70°C still less then it would be with other application. The key is the lower the temperature of incoming air the more dense it is therefore more oxygen is available to the engine combustion process. In most if not all automotive applications the water inter-cooling is done because either air to air system is not possible or impractical or as a cheaper arrangement to improve on no inter-cooling at all. That is however not always the case indeed air to air and water to air can complement each other too subject to non standard or more complex turbo charging systems like sequential multi turbos systems for example. It is uncommon to switch from air to air systems to water to air systems unless there is a specific reasoning and or additional changes are made for the applications. Since ZD30 is already inter-cooled even though it is TMIC (Top Mounted Inter Cooler) which has it own issues with heat soak switching to engine coolant based inter-cooling seems like a backward step. Going FMIC (Front Mounted Inter Cooler) under specific set of circumstances is the improvement. Unless of course you are planning something very special but given you mention the cost of $100, it is very unlikely though do tell us what is the system like. The best bet would be to combine the two perhaps. Regards
  12. Rumcajs

    Forum Upgrade 4.3.1

    Can we get a blue theme going again? This red one makes it too familiar with the others.... Cheers
  13. Rumcajs

    NADS step by step guide

    G'day Don't waste your $$$ on that exercise. Water to air intercooling is a massive compromise and not very efficient one either. You will be much better off in improving existing air to air intercooling minus less hassles with coolant pipes etc. Regards
  14. Rumcajs

    New keys

    Ni$$an $tealers can't do that! That they were unable to do so is astounding. Now I'm not sure what further details you require but I know that system will not enter in to programming mode unless all circuitry is correct. However I don't have 2008 model revision available so I can only speculate in this case. The wiring diagrams for Patrols are the nightmares because of so many revisions and changes on the fly they make. I will try to dig for more info so bear with me. Cheers
  15. Rumcajs

    Nissan 2005 Patrol wagon

    G'day, welcome to the forum. The black smoke is usually a symptom of overfuelling. You can start with the basics, air cleaner, fuel filter etc. This seems/appears to be something related to engine sensors or and ECUs as when you cycle power off everything resets. Are there any error codes/MIL flashing when that happens? Do you have themeans of seeing engine sensors output?e.g. via ECU Talk software and interface cable? I'm being tempted to suggest perhaps MAF sensor is playing up.... Anyway as a part of investigating you could try When it happens don't turn the key off but check if you can at stationary and engine still running use acc pedal to run up max RPM e.g. floor it to see what happens. Also what is the lack of power demonstrating as? No revs, lack of available throttle response or just lazy going? Also what engine mods if any do you have? Regards