Rumcajs

Wow, incedibly good looking forum page even as is....Cheers

Hi, I don't have this particular C/C setup, mine is Italian E-bay special with genuine Nissan SW CC control swiches and the hardest thing to figure out was which wire on the clock spring I was suppose to connect to as mine was 05 model with different color codes. Anyway here is an example of installation instructions concerned... Also be aware that manual is from 2005 therefore it is not applicable to CrD version of ZD30 or after 2007. Since you have not informed which version is yours I'd thread carefully with that cruise control if yours is a later series, possible applicable only up to series 4 (2006) Nevermind, I've already found out that you have that manual already and yours is Series 4. So my entire post was just waste of my time...I'm leaving up here for if someone else needs it. Cheers AutronAuscruiseZD30InstallationInstructions.pdf

I need to know model and year before I can assist....or at least which version/series...example of diagram is for 2001 model or GU2 series.

You will/might have better luck in answering on these Patrols forums: patrol4x4.com nissanpatrol.com.au Very few Nissan Patrol owners in Australia have interest driving at 70 km/h as distances comparing to your local Scandinavian region are on completely different scale. I don't drive my Nissan as daily, and my nearest 4x4 adventure area is 300 km + be it the sand dunes or outback hills are even further 500+ km... No interest in driving at such low speed to get there her ein Oz most people use their Patrols for touring and that means large distances are covered. ZD30 powered Nissans are not widely customized to run 33' with 4.88 gearing. People who would mod gearing ratios would be those guys with heavily modded TD42 on 35' (highly illegal in Australia) who play in local sand/mud pits or do comps but those models are not auto tranny fitted! To be honest I'd mod/change the engine first if I indeed wanted to keep Nissan Patrol. Apparently common conversion is to use BMW 3L engine and gearbox combo.....Polish guys like it... https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/bmw-m57-into-zd30-patrol.419019/ https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=127470 https://house-of-torque.com/product/6-8hp-to-patrol-y60-61/

You can modify or use that as an example what is possible. I know of setup where lockup disengage at whatever you wish or want! Here ==> https://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Lockup Trans Switch.htm You can hack it any way you see fit. I'd personally go out and mix auto mode with manual overide e.g. have speed related options as well as full manual overide. Alas, mine has manual transmission so I don't need to contemplate it. I've automated some mods on mine and always included manual overide option (boost control, preheat control, fuel lift pump control, intercooler fan control etc.) because why limit yourself. Standard shifts as per Nissan : Autotrans ratios: Going for 4.88 diffs would increase your rev range and slow you down. Here in Australia those who use 4.88 usually go bigger tyres (33"-35") as well to get back revs/speed ZD30 loves to drink once you go past its peak torque band of 2000-2500 RPM. Diesels are meant to be driven at peak torque.... This is why I get better fuel consumption around town (10.5 L/100) then on open highway (12.5 L/100) as at 110 km/h mine sits at 2800 RPM. Even at 100km/h it still sits slightly above 2500 RPM so getting down to 2100 would be ideal. I'd prefer lower ratio for 5th gear e.g 0.70 instead of that factory stupidity 0.80 Regards

The torque converter lock up issue is easily fixed, searched for it on Patrol forums it is very easy mod.... https://www.mypatrol4x4.com/topic/226-patrol-torque-converter-lockup-override-system/ As to what 4.88 gears is I have no idea but I wouldn't change diff ratios as going higher would only increase revs and fuel consumption though it would give you more torque/power at the expense of speed. Regards

Good stuff, glad to be of assistance. Regards

OK so it appears that the actual factory central locking is still working as it should. if you use drivers side locking part on the handle that should also operate all door lock. The aftermarket wireless or RC unit doesn't need the factory procedure it should have its own, some have programming button on the unit which needs to be pressed/held for so long etc. This should be in the instructions included with those aftermarket units on how to pair set of fobs included. Remember how this Nissan central locking works: Wireless/key less/remote interfaces with the drivers side door lock unit to operate locks on all doors including drivers. The factory unit includes also wiring to all door sensors to confirm that doors are closed. Aftermarket units don't need that crap indeed it is hindrance especially in case of rear barn door! Thats why aftermarket units only need six wires as we don't need to make checks if the doors are actually closed, that just Japs stupid overzealous checking in case you leave keys in the vehicle etc... First question: is Mongoose unit working? (even with remote right next to it) if it is then try to obtain information how it is wired up or wiring arrangement for it. How many wires are connected? Second question: have you paired Ebay unit fobs with the Ebay unit? Use intructions/info how to provided with the unit, don't use Nissan OEM instructions it will not work! Third question: if you connected Jaycar unit as per instructions, did you pair the fobs as per included instructions? This is the one I have and it works brilliantly ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/remote-controlled-car-central-locking-system-with-2-keyfob/p/LR8839 The unit has learning button which needs to be pressed/held for 1 sec then pressing lock on each transmitter(fob) will pair them. Did you do that? Green and Blue wires are the only one needed....to lock unlock on this unit! Essentially if not concerned about indicators its just 4 wires. Positive, Negative, Lock, Unlock, and 2x Indicators I removed glovebox on my car ST 2004, to check/confirm my wiring setup: LR8839 side Nissan side Red Red/White B+ 12V (It means constant battery power) Black Black B- Ground/Earth Blue Blue/Red Green Blue optional indicators: Brown Green/Red Brown Green/Yellow According to my original post on other forum I might have swapped above Lock and Unlock wires so above list is working correctly. I have cut those 6 wires on original Nissan plug off.... Then used 8 pin white plastic connector kit from Jaycar ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-8-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2069 to make it nicer to connect to aftermarket unit existing harness ( I hate soldering wires) of which I had to cut a lot of length off! I only needed 0.5 m of those 6 wires. Rest I taped up away. Cheers LR8839_manualMain_76676.pdf

Mate, I don't think so as if it works via drivers door buttons.... You need to understand how the system works... Did you read that thread I posted a link to? It explains how the system works. Basically the remote unit just interfaces with/via drivers door control and remote relay. Did you actually pair the remotes as in supplied instructions? If drivers door controls work then its only issue is the remote receiver. As with any Remote control you're required to pair the fobs before they will work!

Just re-check that wiring is connected correctly... wiring diagram bellow. Bonus with aftermarket unit is that unlike factory unit there is no checking for doors properly closed which commonly an issue especially with rear door not closing properly with barn door sagging a little. Other then that it makes no sense why the Ebay unit doesn't work unless the signals are reversed....

I've replaced factory wireless receiver for keyless entry for exactly same reason with Jaycar kit, it worked right away. I followed a thread on patrol4x4.com forum and added my 2 cents worth to the discussion ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/posts/6963332/ B/R

G'day, I used to have same problems, now I have different ones. Re-mapping exposes cooling system deficencies so any issues with fan, radiator etc will quickly cause the engine overheating! Did I mention "rolling coal..." if you're careless with the go pedal? Choose your poison carefully. Anyway the place is called ==> https://ecpt.com.au/ B/R

Hello, If you need to run dual Dawes setup you'll need to check old Chaz's posts where he uses excellent examples of all the possible setups. I will need to dig in to my old .... actually its still on his site ==> http://chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual Boost Controller.htm Cheers There are various ways you could set it up, use voltage controller/switch to set tps voltage at which it will trigger however good luck finding one out. jaycar don't seem to sell those anymore. if you are after which wire to hack in to from TPS for signal you will need to tell us which model is your Patrol....first.

if you've got boost controller setup to 25 psi, but is the engine actually achieving that? I doubt. What other modifications have you got? Nissan is know to limit or limp if MAF signals are incorrect without any codes. Have you tried new/another MAF sensor? Just cleaning it doesn't mean jack. The main problem is that if MAF sensor reports incorrect air flow rate but within specs there will be no errors just lack of power. Engine ECU uses MAF sensor to do all its calculation, MAP or turbo pressure sensor is there only for safety limp overide or something like that. I recommend to read/record MAF voltages during a drive to see what values you're getting under loads. While it is not easy to correlate, anything bellow 2.5 V once accelerator is pushed indicates possibly incorrect reading especially if you are unable to achieve max values up to 4 V, however again if "no fuel no boost no air no fuel" no power catch apply so you must ensure/eliminate each scenario. If you have portable computer with MS software you could obtain ECUTalk USB to Nissan Consult/OBD interface and use ECUTalk software to view /log related data. Also ensure if it is manual transmission that neutral switch is working correctly, use warm up switch when cold to increase RPM when idlin in N and once you move g/lever to a gear position RPM should cut to normal idle. Regards

Hi there, welcome to the forum, I have same issue mine is 2005 GU4 series with less km though....Welcome to the dreaded wheel wobble/s issues affecting almost everyone. Mine happens very noticeably around 80 km/h and gets worse under load. I've noticed that turning steering wheel side to side can either stop it or induce it worse, usually steering right will bring it on with a vengeance. It started to happen when I rotated wheels around and got worst over the time, tyres on mine are muddiess and they're are getting worn and due for replacement. So for now I just live with it. Some change/modify swivel hub offset using aftermarket kit which supposedly fixes the issue but I still thing primary reasons are unbalanced tyres, or worn/loose wheel/hub bearings or indeed swivel hub bearings are worn and loose so removing the shims will just preload them more masking the issues. Forums are full of fixes but none are 100% proof. See this ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/wheel-wobble-final-fix-with-poll-sometimes-referred-to-as-death-wobbles.343130/ Watch this video too ==> it has very good pointers just think first... Regards