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Rumcajs

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Rumcajs last won the day on September 22 2018

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About Rumcajs

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  1. My honest answer is consistently the same. I do not recommend to buy! Not that vintage anyway unless you have replacement motor handy or enough funds to spend when inevitable happens. Or plan a coversion to different engine like TD42, LS2, Cummins or whatever else people spend their money on. Servicing that engine makes no difference, it is terrible design done when Nissan was nearly bankrupt (it should!). Bosch is another swine of automotive dregs! Either way if you are not handy with spanners or want spent weekend under the bonnet keep away from that abomination unless you have a lot of cash to burn. Look it is terrible car on the road, under powered and ready to expire at moments notice. It is only good in low range doing 30 km/h, then it goes anywhere. I know it sound harsh but that is the reality of owning Japanese 4WD. Their endless issues with everything while costing a fortune to drive is the norm. Regards
  2. Hi Runcajs.

    Just reading your stuff on the IP. It is really informative. I am looking at a 2002 Patrol GU and the only thing that makes me hesitate, is the terrible IP reputation and the cost to fix it. The car i have been looking at is owned by and old mechanic you changed the oil , oil and fuel filters every 5000km and always used fuel injector cleaner (and kept record of doing so). would his extra care shown possibly extend the life of the pump. This car has done 25000km and my mechanic say he does a lot of patrol (pre common rail) IP's at around 30000km. His opinion is don't do near it i'd appreciated your opinion. If you think it could be OK should I go ahead with the lift pump mod you suggest.  Thanks again great advice

  3. G'day, AT box oil pan bolts torque is 7-9 Nm, the drain plug is 29-39 Nm. There is a side note in Nissan factory manual stating that bolts should be replaced due " * Always replace oil pan bolts as they are self-sealing bolts. * Before installing bolts, remove traces of sealant and oil from mating surface and thread holes. * Tighten four bolts in a criss-cross pattern to prevent distortion of the gasket " I'd check/confirm that bolt holes are not open in to the transmission once the oil pan is off because if that is the case the bolts do indeed have to be sealed. Regards
  4. G'day, 4 cylinder engine is not easily timed 180 deg out only straight six. Anyway see extra info bellow.
  5. That sound like odd issue. Will the both front doors lock by using drivers door lock button? If yes, the issue might be in the central locking remote control box. Indeed it is easy check, if everything lock up via drivers side lock button then problem is remote control box. It is hidden behind passenger side airbag or just above. It is a white plastic box. From my own experience, I ditched the Nissan's remote box and for 50 bucks bought from Jaycar after market remote kit and re- wired just 6 wires to get it working. End result is perfect locking/unlocking from far greater distance then OEM POS, easy remotes replacements if needed etc. Regards
  6. G'day, Firstly, you'll ned to tell us what model/year your vehicle is! if ZD30 then yes no MIL light likely means that engine ECU is not powering up. There are fusible links in the engine bay right next of main battery. Cheers
  7. You may well have more luck with your question over at this site------》 http://www.navara.asia/forum.php Navara's if it has ZD30 engine then turbo control is not like on Patrol as there is no variable geometry turbo on Nav so not sure if vacuum diagram is of any help. Regards
  8. Hello, Everything suggests that either you had an issue with fuel filter, or it is sucking air somewhere or indeed injection pump is failing. To see if IP is failing and self report visit diesel fuel injection specialist to connect scanner directly to IP there might be some codes in the pump ECU shedding some llight on the issue. If this happens when engine is warm only the chances are it is the pump. The ZD30 and their VP44 injection pumps are notorious for having issues with fuel delivery from the fuel tank as well so you could substitute clear hose from filter housing to pump and observe for presence of air in the line which indicates some of the problems described. Regards
  9. I'd guess that ratios play important part in the power of the winch vs power of the electric motor alone. Simple equation means that lower the ratio the less powerful electric motor is required to do the same work albeit slower. If its the speed than higher ratio is required but more powerful motor is required. Personally, I'd select lower ratio as speed is not important to me as well as mechanically less effort is required from the motor therefore less electrical power and less stress.......you get the point. Regards
  10. G'day, The above is now pretty much just as historical info. Most of us have moved on onto next level which is basically re-mapped engine ECU making Dawes valve and similar as such redundant. The reason for Dawes valve or Timid valve are still valid though in case the factory ECU map is used. I run combo Dawes with Tilix valve because I have retained the dual boost control setup I had before going full re-map. GU2 has reinstalled factory boost control since the re-map fixes the short comings of the factory setup (limp mode due to overboost etc.) I have retained manual overide so I can force low boost ( set to 14 psi)on Dawes valve for economy or high boost setting ( 24 psi) on Tilix valve for mx power output and auto switching based on TPS percentage via voltage switch. Before re-map high boost was set to 18 psi due to factory induced limits. Regards
  11. Just check that engine ECU is staying alive during cranking process, it does sounds like 'DR' circuit is dropping hence if engine is turned on without starter motor it fires up. Could possibly be ECU ground/earth issue. Regards
  12. I concur, far easier and cheaper to have re- mapped ECU from Harley, instead of dicking around with addons which are being defeated constantly by the factory ECU. Indeed there isn't even the need for Dawes/Tilix or needle valve combos, just leave original factory boost control in, works like charm. Unfortunately flashing factory ECU is not straight forward process( deliberately designed to have once only EPROM chips instead of EEPROM) so I recommend getting extra ECU if he still offers that option as that way you have a backup OEM unit. Regards
  13. Well, indeed that could be the case, stuck partially open. Remove and check visually. Regards
  14. G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'd jack the Patrol of the ground and try, park brake off and repeat. If there is no load on drive train and it stops doing it then it is possible. I can't see this being a neutral switch and you can check quickly by using 'engine warm up' switch. If engaged RPM should be around 1100, as soon as you move gear out of neutral the revs should drop to idle. There is also brake pedal switch which when fault occurs it migh not give you throttle response because if ECU sees TPS % off idle and brake signal at the same time it has a 'hissy' fit. You need to see what ECU sees from its sensors to narrow this down. Cheers
  15. Rumcajs

    KenoldGU

    I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers
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