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Rumcajs

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Rumcajs last won the day on September 22 2018

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About Rumcajs

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  1. You may well have more luck with your question over at this site------》 http://www.navara.asia/forum.php Navara's if it has ZD30 engine then turbo control is not like on Patrol as there is no variable geometry turbo on Nav so not sure if vacuum diagram is of any help. Regards
  2. Hello, Everything suggests that either you had an issue with fuel filter, or it is sucking air somewhere or indeed injection pump is failing. To see if IP is failing and self report visit diesel fuel injection specialist to connect scanner directly to IP there might be some codes in the pump ECU shedding some llight on the issue. If this happens when engine is warm only the chances are it is the pump. The ZD30 and their VP44 injection pumps are notorious for having issues with fuel delivery from the fuel tank as well so you could substitute clear hose from filter housing to pump and observe for presence of air in the line which indicates some of the problems described. Regards
  3. I'd guess that ratios play important part in the power of the winch vs power of the electric motor alone. Simple equation means that lower the ratio the less powerful electric motor is required to do the same work albeit slower. If its the speed than higher ratio is required but more powerful motor is required. Personally, I'd select lower ratio as speed is not important to me as well as mechanically less effort is required from the motor therefore less electrical power and less stress.......you get the point. Regards
  4. G'day, The above is now pretty much just as historical info. Most of us have moved on onto next level which is basically re-mapped engine ECU making Dawes valve and similar as such redundant. The reason for Dawes valve or Timid valve are still valid though in case the factory ECU map is used. I run combo Dawes with Tilix valve because I have retained the dual boost control setup I had before going full re-map. GU2 has reinstalled factory boost control since the re-map fixes the short comings of the factory setup (limp mode due to overboost etc.) I have retained manual overide so I can force low boost ( set to 14 psi)on Dawes valve for economy or high boost setting ( 24 psi) on Tilix valve for mx power output and auto switching based on TPS percentage via voltage switch. Before re-map high boost was set to 18 psi due to factory induced limits. Regards
  5. Just check that engine ECU is staying alive during cranking process, it does sounds like 'DR' circuit is dropping hence if engine is turned on without starter motor it fires up. Could possibly be ECU ground/earth issue. Regards
  6. I concur, far easier and cheaper to have re- mapped ECU from Harley, instead of dicking around with addons which are being defeated constantly by the factory ECU. Indeed there isn't even the need for Dawes/Tilix or needle valve combos, just leave original factory boost control in, works like charm. Unfortunately flashing factory ECU is not straight forward process( deliberately designed to have once only EPROM chips instead of EEPROM) so I recommend getting extra ECU if he still offers that option as that way you have a backup OEM unit. Regards
  7. Well, indeed that could be the case, stuck partially open. Remove and check visually. Regards
  8. G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'd jack the Patrol of the ground and try, park brake off and repeat. If there is no load on drive train and it stops doing it then it is possible. I can't see this being a neutral switch and you can check quickly by using 'engine warm up' switch. If engaged RPM should be around 1100, as soon as you move gear out of neutral the revs should drop to idle. There is also brake pedal switch which when fault occurs it migh not give you throttle response because if ECU sees TPS % off idle and brake signal at the same time it has a 'hissy' fit. You need to see what ECU sees from its sensors to narrow this down. Cheers
  9. Rumcajs

    KenoldGU

    I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers
  10. G'day, I'm at a loss to understand what is your objective? Short answer is that you can't just 'bypass' ABS rear sensors. I'm assuming the wheel speed sensors, am I right? If you want to just disable ABS functionality then just remove relevant fuses. It will be standard brakes with anti lock function removed. Regards
  11. No one knows why but they also put emphasis on that it must be semi-synthetic whatever that suppose to mean, technically 100% synthetic motor oil is a myth! Jusk ask a petro chemical engineer who is willing to divulge this scam or just read about on Wikipedia! All widely available 'synthetic' motor oils are based on crude oil with higher end processing/refining so most of the impurties from crude are removed and special additives to improve the concoction are added. It must be said that engine oils today are mostly suited to latest designs combustion precesses therefore older design like ZD30 will not benefit from latest oils indeed there are downsides. High quality mineral or blended (semi-synthetic) oils are better for ZD30. I'm trialling ULX110 which is special blend mineral oil with some fancy organic additives. I was happily using Caltex Delo 400 variety before, all 15W-40 and no issues. Regards
  12. You can start with Dronus' excellent guide =>
  13. G'day, I'm sorry but there are no quick fixes for ZD30 design flaws just replacement with something better. This engine has been designed when Nissan was nearly bankrupt so only the cheapest and nastiest would pass the muster for the "bean counters." Of course this is just my conjecture as nothing else can explain this imbecilic abomination and utter refusal of Nissan to correct it. If ever one was to see how not to design diesel engine this is it. Its a mashup of various petrol engine 'know hows' with diesel bits thrown in from the bottom of the parts bin then checked per unit cost until cheapest is obtained. All the info we have stands. These mods don't save the engine, just postpone the inevitable. Thats it. BTW the comon rail versions of this abomination 'grenade' too! Regards
  14. Well you should be able to see MAF Voltages in Torque app. Monitor signals when it goes well and compare when not. Also check that vacuum connections to VGT are intact because any leak will retard the turbo vanes. When engine idles the actuator should be fully up, check when you have issues. Regards
  15. G'day, IMHO it is the injection pump part. If only you had diesel injection specialist around who has Bosch scanner which will read internal pump ECU codes. That is the only fool proof way to identify if it is injectiom pump control circuit. Apparently someone was able to make his own DYI scanner. I had a link to it in the past..... If there is anyone to blame for this fiasco it is Bosch and the shyte they did where allegedly the stole this idea of radial injection pump and messed it up big time. VP44 is throw away design for which those responsible should be shot honestly. The story of Bosch VP44 epic fail is legendary, be it States, or in the UK most repair shops should be very familiar with it as it was very common in diesel powered Vauxhals/Opels/Audi etc of the late 90s early 00s. Japs bought in to it with Zexel and here we are with Nissan. Biggest killers of these pumps are heat and fuel starvation. Regards
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