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Everything posted by Rumcajs

  1. G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'd jack the Patrol of the ground and try, park brake off and repeat. If there is no load on drive train and it stops doing it then it is possible. I can't see this being a neutral switch and you can check quickly by using 'engine warm up' switch. If engaged RPM should be around 1100, as soon as you move gear out of neutral the revs should drop to idle. There is also brake pedal switch which when fault occurs it migh not give you throttle response because if ECU sees TPS % off idle and brake signal at the same time it has a 'hissy' fit. You need to see what ECU sees from its sensors to narrow this down. Cheers
  2. Rumcajs


    I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers
  3. G'day, I'm at a loss to understand what is your objective? Short answer is that you can't just 'bypass' ABS rear sensors. I'm assuming the wheel speed sensors, am I right? If you want to just disable ABS functionality then just remove relevant fuses. It will be standard brakes with anti lock function removed. Regards
  4. No one knows why but they also put emphasis on that it must be semi-synthetic whatever that suppose to mean, technically 100% synthetic motor oil is a myth! Jusk ask a petro chemical engineer who is willing to divulge this scam or just read about on Wikipedia! All widely available 'synthetic' motor oils are based on crude oil with higher end processing/refining so most of the impurties from crude are removed and special additives to improve the concoction are added. It must be said that engine oils today are mostly suited to latest designs combustion precesses therefore older design like ZD30 will not benefit from latest oils indeed there are downsides. High quality mineral or blended (semi-synthetic) oils are better for ZD30. I'm trialling ULX110 which is special blend mineral oil with some fancy organic additives. I was happily using Caltex Delo 400 variety before, all 15W-40 and no issues. Regards
  5. You can start with Dronus' excellent guide =>
  6. G'day, I'm sorry but there are no quick fixes for ZD30 design flaws just replacement with something better. This engine has been designed when Nissan was nearly bankrupt so only the cheapest and nastiest would pass the muster for the "bean counters." Of course this is just my conjecture as nothing else can explain this imbecilic abomination and utter refusal of Nissan to correct it. If ever one was to see how not to design diesel engine this is it. Its a mashup of various petrol engine 'know hows' with diesel bits thrown in from the bottom of the parts bin then checked per unit cost until cheapest is obtained. All the info we have stands. These mods don't save the engine, just postpone the inevitable. Thats it. BTW the comon rail versions of this abomination 'grenade' too! Regards
  7. Well you should be able to see MAF Voltages in Torque app. Monitor signals when it goes well and compare when not. Also check that vacuum connections to VGT are intact because any leak will retard the turbo vanes. When engine idles the actuator should be fully up, check when you have issues. Regards
  8. G'day, IMHO it is the injection pump part. If only you had diesel injection specialist around who has Bosch scanner which will read internal pump ECU codes. That is the only fool proof way to identify if it is injectiom pump control circuit. Apparently someone was able to make his own DYI scanner. I had a link to it in the past..... If there is anyone to blame for this fiasco it is Bosch and the shyte they did where allegedly the stole this idea of radial injection pump and messed it up big time. VP44 is throw away design for which those responsible should be shot honestly. The story of Bosch VP44 epic fail is legendary, be it States, or in the UK most repair shops should be very familiar with it as it was very common in diesel powered Vauxhals/Opels/Audi etc of the late 90s early 00s. Japs bought in to it with Zexel and here we are with Nissan. Biggest killers of these pumps are heat and fuel starvation. Regards
  9. G'day, I don't know what is CAS! Argh, the acronyms Crank Angle Sensor ..... If main ECU claims no faults then you have to flash out codes from the pump ECU....... However, ZD30 are also known not starting if the cranking RPM are lower then expected.....I think that one applies to CrD more likely. There is a chance that pump ECU is not powering up so check that battery voltage is present at appropriate terminals and that ground connection is also sound. There is a guide on the net on howto force the IP ECU to power up in emergency and fire up the engine in the idle mode only. Here ===> https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests Bear in mind that these are for North Amercian 6 cylinder version of VP44 however the underlying method is corect as 6 cylinder version only difference is in the distributor and pumping element. Control side is identical apart from no external lift pump circuit on Nissan. Also ensure that wiring connections listed are as on your Nissan by checking wiring diagram in the Nissan manual which by now any selfrespecting Patrol owner should have already aquired. I'd also not discount the fact that NATS might have something to say about that too. Have your tried your spare key? Regards
  10. Sorry to hear about that. To answer your questions: 1. No the extra lift pump will be/should be installed before the fuel filter cause they're better to "push" the fuel than pull, it that is their primary design..... 2. Yes spill/leak off pipe returns excess fuel back to fuel tank or back to suction side of the IP side, depends on the design chosen. Nissan Patrol ZD30 implementation is to return the spill line to the suction side of the IP pump cause inbuilt vane lift pump( which is itself dreadful design cause it requires higher RPM to increase the flow rate) Thats why We have to re- route it to return to overflow side of IP fuel return line when using external lift pump to pressurize what was suction line which would ruin the spill line workings. The good old design is to return spill line to fuel tank, it improves fuel cooling as well, unless you are in Arctics or similar very environments where it will help heating/warming of the fuel. In hot climates it is a disaster to have. Some designs out there have thermostatic valve which depending on ambient temps re-routes fuel flow from spill line either back to fuel tank (hot day)or back to fuel filter suction line(cold day). Sadly not on Ni$$ans LOL. Be vary that Carter 4600/4601 lift pumps installations require to have as a safety measure bypass built in in case of the pump failure or blockage as fuel starvation will result in IP failure again. Regards
  11. The injection pump is not a build for back yarder for sure.... As for the turbo, "how long is a piece of string?" You will have to search what is avail in Bolivia. Usual suspects like Garret, Switzer, perhaps KKK or Holset make something you could use. The thing with non turbo injection pump working correctly with the specific turbo is another matter. Regards
  12. Those filters are available from Ni$$an stealers, you can also chase ones from Mann and other aftermarket suppliers. Regards
  13. It means tolerances given for each block and crank combination. You will need specs for each to understand the sizes. Something like bellow Regards
  14. G'day, The only servicing required is good quality fuel and regular fuel filter replacement (more often then service intervals from Nissan due to poor quality fuel). Some people try additives in the fuel like diesel treatment types ( I'm not sure what is available in your area) which can be helpfull when quality of diesel is low. I use here in Australia Chemtec Diesel Power I also add two stroke mineral oil in ratio 1:200 (or multiply liters of fuel added to tank by 5 to get the amount of oil to ad in ml) because older Diesel fuel injection system don't handle low sulphur diesel fuel that well so extra lubricity doesn't hurt. As for legality of that thats another matter. So in your case finding additive for low quality/ bad fuel could perhaps be beneficial. There is also a modification to add external electrical fuel lift pump to ensure fuel starvation will never occur because that is one of the main killers of those pumps but there is a modification needed to be done to spill/ injector leak off pipe otherwise the engine will be pumped full of fuel. This apply to Nissan Patrol so I'm not sure how is fuel return from injectors leak off or spill line routed in your vehicle. External lift pump like Carter 4600 series or Walbro 13-2 or better abble to supply up to 12 psi head pressure will improive things greatly but it does require you to understand thing or two about fuel supply on ZD30 and routing of fuel lines/ The injector pump has its own lift supply pump built in but it is hopelessly inadequate especialy at low RPM so bonus is when fitting external supply pump is a slight gain in low down RPM power increase. In that case injectors spill lines is connected straight to suction side of the pump port which means it needs to be connected changed to return line to fuel tank. Regards
  15. Having said all that, checking if all electrical connections to the pump and grounds are good first would be a good start.
  16. Ok, Yours what I suspected, conventional mechanical diesel injection system. Injection pump is Zexel/Bosch VP44 radial pump and what I posted earlier applies. Dreadfull device it is. The link you posted to Ebay is not applicable to your car then. Your mechanic will need to connect special scanner from Bosch directly to pump ECU to read/diagnose the codes which will narrow it down but prognosis is not good. These pumps have fatal flaws and will fail suddenly and without any warnings. If one of the sensors fails for example the entire assembly of sensors and actuators will need to be replaced. Most common failure is actually that inbuilt ECU where its internal circutry is subject to failure due to mostly overheating cause either fuel supply is restricted/compromised. Search "Bosch VP44" isuess your will see.... Those things are ticking time bombs..... Regards
  17. You will need to clarify which version of the ZD30 engine fuel injection is in yours. There are two types with completely different systems and different operation so giving you any advice is conditional upon that clarification. Regards
  18. Well, I'm assuming your engine has what is termed as radial injection pump which is not common rail system. What year is your vehicle? The link to E-bay is for common rail injection system. Is this how your engine looks like ==>
  19. G'day, The ZD30 pumps VP44 from Bosch/Zexel are expensive to fix and repair and made deliberately that way. Welcome to the scores of owners who have been cheated this way. If the engine has shut down chances are the injection pump kaput. These pumps are terrible and most parts in them are replace only. That's why clean fuel and regular attention to injection system are crucial to avoid this fate. I'm sorry but there is no other way out of it your mechanic is right. Regards
  20. The usual location of oil switches/sensors on ZD30 ===> Note bellow explanations refer to "common rail " version of ZD30 2007 onwards hovever the location is the same on previous model too. If you only have one than it is the one on LHS image. Which means no resistor either, easily checked by disconnecting the plug when engine run if the light is on it will go out..... Regards
  21. I'd lock hubs manually first to check. If it is CV then in most cases the clunk would be there only on full steering left or right lock. Personally I'd gut out auto hub lock clutch and be done with it if yours are auto locking hubs. That way it is on only when manual lock is engaged. If you have access to 4 axle stands then raise the vehicle of the ground and "drive" it that way so you pin point the source of the noise. Cheers
  22. G'day, The switches are not same, and the resistor is upgraded one. What might happen is that the replacement switch will fail again due to the resistor. That is/was explicit warning on the Nissan repair bulletin. Part numbers: LHS switch ---> 25240-8996E (low side) RHS switch ---> 25240-2X90 (high side) One of the difference is that RHS switch is marked with green circle as well. I tried to swap them around as to what will happen and the oil light will not go out if the low side switch is on the high side! Regards
  23. RD28 engine is notorious for warped engine head due to overheating and subsequent coolant loss..... White smoke is usually coolant being burned especially when doing it hot. The blue smoke is usually indication of burning engine oil. Having said that white or grey smoke can be also a symptom of unburned diesel fuel especially when cold due to glow lugs not operating properly. Coolant will leave "tell tale" traces where it leaks so if it is external leak you should be able to find it. If you can that means coolant is leaking in to combustion chamber of any cylinder. What is the engine oil like, does it look milky grey? Anyway, any mechanic worth its spanners would do following ..... Pressure test cooling system both when engine is cold and hot to find external leaks first. May be then start looking inside, take glow plugs out or injectors and carry compression test etc. Regards
  24. G'day, 1. NO, because it is on the suction side and if it only takes several presses and it goes hard then that is normal behavior. 2. Yes, you can have air entering from the priming pump diaphragm Use of injector cleaner create sometimes more problems then it is worth. Did you change fuel filter as well? If you did, it is possible that the filter installation is not correct and it is bypassing the sealing or that extra "O" ring everyone ignores..... Anyway, this is a dreaded fault for anyone "lucky enough" to own vehicle with that abomination made by Bosch the VP44 radial injection pump. What you should really do is to check ICV % via Nissan "datascan" or ECU talk software and Consult cable while engine is running. Anything less then 35% duty cycle at idle indicates issues with fuel delivery to the pump. It should be around 50%-70% under load and on deceleration even higher. To identify issue with air in the fuel is very difficult. You will need to ensure that fuel lines are sound including steel lines and pick up in the tank. That's why it is essential to be able to compare ICV% values/readings as you perform diagnostics. * Change fuel filter in case it is blocked with what cleaner has created and bleed the system thoroughly first if you can. * Check/Decide if running new fuel lines and hose clamps might fix the issue *If problem persist create/make temporary clear see through fuel lines/hoses running from the pipe in the chassis to the filter and from filter to the pump so you can visualize what air if any is coming in. * if still there run the lines from spare jerry or bucket filled with clean diesel fuel to eliminate fuel lines leading to fuel filter depending on above step. * Depending on the outcome of previous checks try another fuel filter housing to eliminate priming pump diaphragm if the air in the fuel is still present. * If the problem persist it is possible that the injection pump is failling and the big bill is coming your way. If you have access to compressed air and are handy with creating temp blanking plugs then I'd disconnect the fuel line from the injection pump, blank its end and then disconnect line at the tank and pressurize the line with max 75-85 kPa and check for air leaks. That will tell you quite quickly if there is an issue with the tightness of the system. Also don't discount possibility for fault in the electrical harness on the pump. Good luck
  25. What a mess! Soldering wires if done properly should not affect readings however soldering is not performing well under mechanically stresed connections. If I was repairing that loom I'd make intermediate plug/crimp joint in the wires but thats me, even RAAF teaches its technicians that "soldering is for PCBs and crimping for cables and I had same training for my trade from the vehicle manufacturers.... As with the chip your best bet if you really want to know is to expose its internals aka check the PCB with all the electronic hardware. Like this one ==> Essentially repackaged DTE chip the grand daddy of them all. Anyway, yours seems awfully like the DPU system or Diesel Power Unlimited I found the link to to it on Russian E-bay (DPU chip) Regards
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