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Everything posted by Rumcajs

  1. Hello, I'm not familiar with Y61 auto transmissions but as yours is fully OBD2 compliant I'd try to use OBD2 scanner to find out if transmission temps are displayed. If they are then I would not proceed with installation of hardwired gauges. Certainly I'd not pay 800 bucks to have one installed (does it come with golden bezel too?) OBD2 BT adapter (ELM327) is about $10-20 bucks, Torque Pro app is about 10 bucks so to test/try is cheaper proposition. ScanGauge 2 OBD2 reader does have some issues with reading temps but it is supported allegedly Nissan Patrol Scangauge S
  2. G'day, To be able to better identify these type of faults (ECM to pump module DTCs) you will need Bosch scanner which directly connects to the pump. If this issue wasn't there before fuel filter change that would mean you have air in the fuel and possibly because filter fitment introduced the air or is not sealing properly or leaking through priming button. Regards
  3. Try this ==> but with caution as Ni$$an is typical with how one can't identify which version one has. I looked in the manual and the way they list these glow plug circuits is either for cold areas and except for Australia or just but there are two fundamental versions.... since yours has been converted it is even worse to identify. Bellow is an example for "cold areas" whatever that suppose to mean all places but Middle East and SE Asia and Africa? Cause if you live in Darwin AU you don't need glow plugs but if you live in Tasmania or Victoria's High Country you definitely need glow plugs f
  4. G'day, Welcome to the forum. Feel free to explore, ask questions and share ups and downs of Patrol ownership. Regards
  5. Hello, Firstly you need to tell us which model of Nissan Patrol and which engine? TD42 uses glow plugs relay controller and ZD30 uses engine ECU to control glow plugs. ZD30 will glow plugs on start unless engine operating temp is 70°C. Regards
  6. My first reaction was that it is the belt tensioner. Have you changed the belt? Bear in mind that even replacement tensioner when not fitted correctly will cause the belt to be noisy. You shoud be able to pull back the tensioner and it should snap back. If not, it is not moving freely on the pivot. Also I wonder if alternator has anything to do with it. You could spray 'Belt grip' on the belt but that will ruin/wear it quicker. Cheers
  7. G'day, Removing DOC (catalyst ) is mostly illegal but depends on country where you live, I'm not sure what regulations are there in Argentina. I'd remove it (factory unit) but install high flow aftermarket unit to stay legal if needed. EGT probe is before turbo charger is harder to install and yes it will show higher temperatures. Installed after turbo is OK and easier. Regards
  8. This simply doesn't compute. You had it at Nissan for 3 months and they can't find the fault? Where? Its stalling cause there is no fuel available at right time or enough when needed under load cause either wrong inputs from engine sensors e.g MAP and MAF or fuel delivery is faulty, either low supply or high pressure rail issue. This should not be that hard to figure out by measuring observing engine sensors and their outputs. Or is turbo charger faulty? Example the variable geometry vanes are fully retarded cause the vacuum control is leaking. Easy to see via OBD2 scanner. Is fuel
  9. G'day, MAF Voltage reading at idle is around 1.6- 2.0 V. MAP or boost sensor always read absolute pressure that is atmospheric or barometric pressure + actual turbo pressure. Barometric pressure at sea level is around 100 kpa or 14.5 psi. Unless you are using actual ECU Talk LCD panel where this compensation is made you will see the values as indicated in the ECU Talk software gauges. Cheers
  10. As long as you get same steering angles then all is good. Cheers
  11. That is highly unlikely as the cost is or will be astronomical. Sourcing second hand TB48 driveline is also not that common. Apart from the body there are differences especially electrical system, you would need the tranny as well as brakes and even handbrake is different. Getting the engine and transmission assembly, electrical looms etc from a donor rolled over vehicle perhaps. Going LS V8 or Ford Barra straigth six is easier due to much greater availability of donor parts. Regards
  12. My honest answer is consistently the same. I do not recommend to buy! Not that vintage anyway unless you have replacement motor handy or enough funds to spend when inevitable happens. Or plan a coversion to different engine like TD42, LS2, Cummins or whatever else people spend their money on. Servicing that engine makes no difference, it is terrible design done when Nissan was nearly bankrupt (it should!). Bosch is another swine of automotive dregs! Either way if you are not handy with spanners or want spent weekend under the bonnet keep away from that abomination unless you have a l
  13. G'day, AT box oil pan bolts torque is 7-9 Nm, the drain plug is 29-39 Nm. There is a side note in Nissan factory manual stating that bolts should be replaced due " * Always replace oil pan bolts as they are self-sealing bolts. * Before installing bolts, remove traces of sealant and oil from mating surface and thread holes. * Tighten four bolts in a criss-cross pattern to prevent distortion of the gasket " I'd check/confirm that bolt holes are not open in to the transmission once the oil pan is off because if that is the case the bolts do indeed have to be sealed.
  14. G'day, 4 cylinder engine is not easily timed 180 deg out only straight six. Anyway see extra info bellow.
  15. That sound like odd issue. Will the both front doors lock by using drivers door lock button? If yes, the issue might be in the central locking remote control box. Indeed it is easy check, if everything lock up via drivers side lock button then problem is remote control box. It is hidden behind passenger side airbag or just above. It is a white plastic box. From my own experience, I ditched the Nissan's remote box and for 50 bucks bought from Jaycar after market remote kit and re- wired just 6 wires to get it working. End result is perfect locking/unlocking from far greater distance
  16. G'day, Firstly, you'll ned to tell us what model/year your vehicle is! if ZD30 then yes no MIL light likely means that engine ECU is not powering up. There are fusible links in the engine bay right next of main battery. Cheers
  17. You may well have more luck with your question over at this site------》 http://www.navara.asia/forum.php Navara's if it has ZD30 engine then turbo control is not like on Patrol as there is no variable geometry turbo on Nav so not sure if vacuum diagram is of any help. Regards
  18. Hello, Everything suggests that either you had an issue with fuel filter, or it is sucking air somewhere or indeed injection pump is failing. To see if IP is failing and self report visit diesel fuel injection specialist to connect scanner directly to IP there might be some codes in the pump ECU shedding some llight on the issue. If this happens when engine is warm only the chances are it is the pump. The ZD30 and their VP44 injection pumps are notorious for having issues with fuel delivery from the fuel tank as well so you could substitute clear hose from filter housing to pump a
  19. I'd guess that ratios play important part in the power of the winch vs power of the electric motor alone. Simple equation means that lower the ratio the less powerful electric motor is required to do the same work albeit slower. If its the speed than higher ratio is required but more powerful motor is required. Personally, I'd select lower ratio as speed is not important to me as well as mechanically less effort is required from the motor therefore less electrical power and less stress.......you get the point. Regards
  20. G'day, The above is now pretty much just as historical info. Most of us have moved on onto next level which is basically re-mapped engine ECU making Dawes valve and similar as such redundant. The reason for Dawes valve or Timid valve are still valid though in case the factory ECU map is used. I run combo Dawes with Tilix valve because I have retained the dual boost control setup I had before going full re-map. GU2 has reinstalled factory boost control since the re-map fixes the short comings of the factory setup (limp mode due to overboost etc.) I have retained manual overide s
  21. Just check that engine ECU is staying alive during cranking process, it does sounds like 'DR' circuit is dropping hence if engine is turned on without starter motor it fires up. Could possibly be ECU ground/earth issue. Regards
  22. I concur, far easier and cheaper to have re- mapped ECU from Harley, instead of dicking around with addons which are being defeated constantly by the factory ECU. Indeed there isn't even the need for Dawes/Tilix or needle valve combos, just leave original factory boost control in, works like charm. Unfortunately flashing factory ECU is not straight forward process( deliberately designed to have once only EPROM chips instead of EEPROM) so I recommend getting extra ECU if he still offers that option as that way you have a backup OEM unit. Regards
  23. Well, indeed that could be the case, stuck partially open. Remove and check visually. Regards
  24. G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'
  25. I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers
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