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Everything posted by Rumcajs

  1. Which one? If they're same pinout and rating I can see why not. Regards
  2. G'day, Disclaimer: I don't know wiring setup on Navara. On Patrol red wire comes out of pin 2 on pump side (9 pin connector) and is for CAN High (CAN-H) leading in to the Nissan style plug 6 pins (near intake manifold) pin 2 on the Nissan side becomes red with black tracers wire. Essentially that short harness is just patch lead to adapt to Nissan style plugs. Regards
  3. Unfortunately no, that is not the case, indeed if you pay attention to ECU Talk logs you could see ICV% as high as 90 but only on engine deceleration under no fuel being consumed, which also means the timing adjuster (hydraulic) is not being used either. The way those figures come about is the higher the demand for fuel the lower the ICV% as the system can't keep up either because supply is compromised (filter blocked, air in the fuel) or internal lift pump can't pump fast enough (this is visible at lower RPM and higher demand for fuel during standing take off...) ICV% is basically a duty cycl
  4. To get pump ECU self diagnostic mode on you will need to connect directly. I mentioned it in previous posts. See ==> https://www.mypatrol4x4.com/topic/1558-gu-zd30-di-hesitation-starting-issues/?do=findComment&comment=10624 Regards
  5. Mate, I have dismantled that injection pump including its module and I really don't understand how you could remove the ECU module only (without removing pump) because it is all connected with cables with all the sensors and actuators, the RPM sensor is buried deep inside the pump for example and uses ribbon cable......I will try to find my photos when I had that fun on the bench that is. That company exist purely because many are unwilling to pay for the pump replacement/overhaul but if the ECU is at fault or its circuits. The ECU is sealed in some sort of resin just to scrap
  6. It looks like the IP pump is having an issue, in any case having external lift pump is a good thing indeed it is criminal that Nissan decided against one so it can save money. Bosch has built provision for external lift pump so there is no excuse. I'd find Bosch Diesel fuel injection specialist to connect directly to the pump so the y can advise you better if the pump is dying (its inbuilt ECU probably has electrical cold joint somewhere, the net is full of videos about it) Carter 4600 pump has only one issue that is it is non through flow design in case of failure which means you ne
  7. Yes, leave spool up rate alone just play with Tilix to increase max boost. Only play with spool up rate if you struggle to reach the boost levels you are aiming for.... I had a quick look at ECUTalk logs.... You need to change log settings/sensors. Fir start: get rid off or untick the "useless" sensors like "spill valve", "cooling fan" (did you know that is completely useless as it only refers to A/C fan), " Exh/Gas Reg V", " Swrl Con S/V1", "Battery", "Fuel Temp" Secondly change format of TPS (Throttle) from Voltage to % (percentage) as that is much easier to cole
  8. Spool up rate can be left as is (needle valve is not reponsible for max boost attained to a degree). I don't think the dampener has any effect, if it is leaking or is blocked it would struggle to boost as actuator would be slow to move. The temp gauge should do something when you disconnect the temp sensor. It will either go down to min or max depending on what of sensor it is. If you short the wire to ground directly it should have similar effect. Regards
  9. Yeah if you can attached or PM me that would be great. 15 psi is actually not that high, thats factory setings. Spool up rate is the key. You should aim at having boost ~ 10 psi when RPMs are bellow 1700 and mid throttle and max it out to 18psi above 3500+ RPM for safety. I have Tilix valve on mine and I can hit 16+ psi bellow 2000 RPM if too heavy on the go pedal so I keep an eye on that one. (No faults though) I actually wonder of the Tilix valve is set up properly and actually backing off the turbo vanes, if not I'm not surprised that MAFs code is coming up, essentially no b
  10. I think it is electrical, especially if the temp gauge is moving as you've described, cause the temp sender grounds against engine block (its single wire type), it is in a bit of tight spot but if you disconnect it read should change either to max or min depending what type it is. If the grounding is a problem due to the movement of the engine that would affect every engine sensor and IP. Regards
  11. 0705 code is a worry and a dreaded one for sure, indeed that will shut the engine down however I still think there is a problem somewhere else especially "when I accelerate the gauge goes down towards "C" but when I let off the accelerator, it goes back up to operating temperature towards "H". Yes. Its been a while since I've done ECUTalk logging, there should be tick/check option for that. The key is not to select too many gauges while logging as well. There is also an option to just do the logging without displaying gauges (better). https://www.ecutalk.com.au/images/ecutalk_v1.
  12. G'day, If you gonna do ECU remap (I'm only familiar with the one in Australia) so then there is no need for Dawes/needle valve combo. Blanking EGR is recommended purely on health reasons of the engine nothing else but that will cause boost spikes so either remap or alternative means of controlling the boost is required. Given that vehicle has done 160k stock I'd remove intake manifold and clean it properly off all the carbon sludge deposits in there after catch can is fitted and EGR is blanked. Regards
  13. G'day, Malfunction is detected when ... * An excessively high voltage from the mass air flow sensor is sent to ECM when engine is running. Check Items (Possible Cause) *Air duct *Charge air cooler *Variable nozzle turbocharger control system *Variable nozzle turbocharger *Mass air flow sensor * Harness or connectors (The mass air flow sensor circuit is shorted.) So what above means is not MAF sensor first! Since you have modified the way spool up rate and turbo control operates it means that mechanically the system is not responding to what ECU is e
  14. G'day, I strongly urge you to just use factory boost controller solenoid first with your remap ECU. There is really no point to have needle valve and or Tilix in there as all the limits were removed. If you want to experiment then OK but it is kinda not needed. You could include Tilix valve with factory boost solenoid to limit max boost I guess: Tilix valve/Dawes valve have same principle. Or if feeling adventureous you can remove factory boost controller completely: But you will need to fiddle with right adjustment of needle valve and that t
  15. Well technically yes that would be correct however it is a very tight spot to fit aftermarket sensor in there if there is already one fitted (Series 4 onwards). Regards
  16. I would caution you about fiddling with the grub screw on the turbo charger. It is normally set up to optimize flow rate of the turbine during manufacturing assembly using very specialized one off test bench. No one else has it. There is a bulletin out from Garrett confirming that once you fiddle and affect settings it is rubbish bin for the turbo! So don't do it! You will gain nothing by playing with it especially if you gonna do ECU re-map. The actuator is controlled by the ECU and the grub screw is max stop for the vanes opening. ... You can alternatively leave the manual boost
  17. HPD MAF housing reduces airflow rate around the sensor. This has severe consequences to fuelling at lower RPM so the car is absolutely gutless on take offs. It is horrible to drive like that. I had to use voltage modifier to offset the signal loss to gain the power back. Totally stupid! As I mentioned earlier the voltage limits for fuel cuts are variable so fuel cut defender can only work on max values therefore useless! The factory boost solenoid is PWM valve therefore limitless, its the ECU which imposes limit..... The ECPT used to have an options,4 years ago, send them your E
  18. Gday, Short answer is nothing works to eliminate fuel cut function from factory ECU. Need to remap the ECU to fix that issue. Don't waste $$$ on HPD gear, doesn't work especially MAF housing, I've got one, it creates more issues then it solves. Don't use FCD2 boost controller too, it doesn'twork. Over the time I've done it all. The only thing that worked is re-maped ECU. Then you need nothing else. The way fuel cut works is based on several factors: RPM, MAF airflow, time and TPS. Turbo boost is not taken in to consideration! E.g if RPM is bellow 2000, TPS over
  19. G'day, I'd check if turbo actuator is functioning as this sounds like you have no boost. since the actuator is vacuum controlled, the most common culprit is either split hose or leaking vacuum canister/reservoir. When engine idles the actuator lever/rod should move fully up against its stopper (do not attempt to adjust!) Regards
  20. Nope that is incorrect. Very common problem is small vac line in to turbocharger is split. The result is car feels sluggis as turbocharger can't alter its vanes at low RPM so no boost. Another quite common issue is on series 3,2,1 (up to mid 2004 models), they have vac canister which leaks like a sieve. It can be easily by passed to check or confirm and left disconnected with no adverse effects. Regards
  21. I'm not sure I follow but yes ZD30 engines have a bit heavy breathing. I'm assuming you took a hose from the rocker cover breather off.... If there is no catch can on that thing after 200K I'd be checking what the intake manifold looks like, pretty much guaranteed that port holes are half the size by now from carbon and oil deposits. Sadly it is no quick fix either..... Not sure I'd want that thing unless it is extremely cheap. Regards
  22. Good stuff, thanks for the update. You can open the log file either with Wordpad, or spreadsheet program like e.g. Libreoffice Calcs which makes it much easier to colerate. To get the log file you need to double click the gauge during the preselection, just don't select too many only important ones e.g. TPS%, RPM, AFM, ICV%, Vehicle speed perhaps. No need for voltmeter, spill valve, glow relay, A/C fan or barometer.... Regards
  23. Well, that might be possible(mine primer button is rock solid after several hours of engine being off). Fuel delivery system on my car is heavily modified and I'm not 100% sure that could also influence it. Fuel system on ZD30 seems self priming and as such will have a pressure drop once the engine stops. What the residual pressure if any is left I'm not sure. On fully closed fuel injection systems running at around 150 to 200 kPa delivery pressure the left over is about 50 kPa because fuel lift pump has non return valve built in to retain the residual pressure. The trend on self bleeding
  24. I buy all my filters from Western filters in Sydney. CrD filter kits
  25. G'day, I haven't heard of filter brands like Osk before, but I caution you with too cheap filters..... Indeed I'd be looking at water separator in that case. 3" exhaust on CrD should be OK however a lot of people use 2.75" exhaust with very good result indeed better because 3" appears to be too big to maintain correct back pressure. Beaudesert does make the entire set. ===> https://beauexhausts.com.au/product/patrol-gu-3l-exhaust/ The only issues with CrD is when people attempt to block EGR... causes MIL to come on. Regards
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