Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Rumcajs

  1. Well you should be able to see MAF Voltages in Torque app. Monitor signals when it goes well and compare when not. Also check that vacuum connections to VGT are intact because any leak will retard the turbo vanes. When engine idles the actuator should be fully up, check when you have issues. Regards
  2. G'day, IMHO it is the injection pump part. If only you had diesel injection specialist around who has Bosch scanner which will read internal pump ECU codes. That is the only fool proof way to identify if it is injectiom pump control circuit. Apparently someone was able to make his own DYI scanner. I had a link to it in the past..... If there is anyone to blame for this fiasco it is Bosch and the shyte they did where allegedly the stole this idea of radial injection pump and messed it up big time. VP44 is throw away design for which those responsible should be shot honestly. The story of Bosch VP44 epic fail is legendary, be it States, or in the UK most repair shops should be very familiar with it as it was very common in diesel powered Vauxhals/Opels/Audi etc of the late 90s early 00s. Japs bought in to it with Zexel and here we are with Nissan. Biggest killers of these pumps are heat and fuel starvation. Regards
  3. G'day, I don't know what is CAS! Argh, the acronyms Crank Angle Sensor ..... If main ECU claims no faults then you have to flash out codes from the pump ECU....... However, ZD30 are also known not starting if the cranking RPM are lower then expected.....I think that one applies to CrD more likely. There is a chance that pump ECU is not powering up so check that battery voltage is present at appropriate terminals and that ground connection is also sound. There is a guide on the net on howto force the IP ECU to power up in emergency and fire up the engine in the idle mode only. Here ===> https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests Bear in mind that these are for North Amercian 6 cylinder version of VP44 however the underlying method is corect as 6 cylinder version only difference is in the distributor and pumping element. Control side is identical apart from no external lift pump circuit on Nissan. Also ensure that wiring connections listed are as on your Nissan by checking wiring diagram in the Nissan manual which by now any selfrespecting Patrol owner should have already aquired. I'd also not discount the fact that NATS might have something to say about that too. Have your tried your spare key? Regards
  4. Sorry to hear about that. To answer your questions: 1. No the extra lift pump will be/should be installed before the fuel filter cause they're better to "push" the fuel than pull, it that is their primary design..... 2. Yes spill/leak off pipe returns excess fuel back to fuel tank or back to suction side of the IP side, depends on the design chosen. Nissan Patrol ZD30 implementation is to return the spill line to the suction side of the IP pump cause inbuilt vane lift pump( which is itself dreadful design cause it requires higher RPM to increase the flow rate) Thats why We have to re- route it to return to overflow side of IP fuel return line when using external lift pump to pressurize what was suction line which would ruin the spill line workings. The good old design is to return spill line to fuel tank, it improves fuel cooling as well, unless you are in Arctics or similar very environments where it will help heating/warming of the fuel. In hot climates it is a disaster to have. Some designs out there have thermostatic valve which depending on ambient temps re-routes fuel flow from spill line either back to fuel tank (hot day)or back to fuel filter suction line(cold day). Sadly not on Ni$$ans LOL. Be vary that Carter 4600/4601 lift pumps installations require to have as a safety measure bypass built in in case of the pump failure or blockage as fuel starvation will result in IP failure again. Regards
  5. The injection pump is not a build for back yarder for sure.... As for the turbo, "how long is a piece of string?" You will have to search what is avail in Bolivia. Usual suspects like Garret, Switzer, perhaps KKK or Holset make something you could use. The thing with non turbo injection pump working correctly with the specific turbo is another matter. Regards
  6. Those filters are available from Ni$$an stealers, you can also chase ones from Mann and other aftermarket suppliers. Regards
  7. It means tolerances given for each block and crank combination. You will need specs for each to understand the sizes. Something like bellow Regards
  8. G'day, The only servicing required is good quality fuel and regular fuel filter replacement (more often then service intervals from Nissan due to poor quality fuel). Some people try additives in the fuel like diesel treatment types ( I'm not sure what is available in your area) which can be helpfull when quality of diesel is low. I use here in Australia Chemtec Diesel Power I also add two stroke mineral oil in ratio 1:200 (or multiply liters of fuel added to tank by 5 to get the amount of oil to ad in ml) because older Diesel fuel injection system don't handle low sulphur diesel fuel that well so extra lubricity doesn't hurt. As for legality of that thats another matter. So in your case finding additive for low quality/ bad fuel could perhaps be beneficial. There is also a modification to add external electrical fuel lift pump to ensure fuel starvation will never occur because that is one of the main killers of those pumps but there is a modification needed to be done to spill/ injector leak off pipe otherwise the engine will be pumped full of fuel. This apply to Nissan Patrol so I'm not sure how is fuel return from injectors leak off or spill line routed in your vehicle. External lift pump like Carter 4600 series or Walbro 13-2 or better abble to supply up to 12 psi head pressure will improive things greatly but it does require you to understand thing or two about fuel supply on ZD30 and routing of fuel lines/ The injector pump has its own lift supply pump built in but it is hopelessly inadequate especialy at low RPM so bonus is when fitting external supply pump is a slight gain in low down RPM power increase. In that case injectors spill lines is connected straight to suction side of the pump port which means it needs to be connected changed to return line to fuel tank. Regards
  9. Having said all that, checking if all electrical connections to the pump and grounds are good first would be a good start.
  10. Ok, Yours what I suspected, conventional mechanical diesel injection system. Injection pump is Zexel/Bosch VP44 radial pump and what I posted earlier applies. Dreadfull device it is. The link you posted to Ebay is not applicable to your car then. Your mechanic will need to connect special scanner from Bosch directly to pump ECU to read/diagnose the codes which will narrow it down but prognosis is not good. These pumps have fatal flaws and will fail suddenly and without any warnings. If one of the sensors fails for example the entire assembly of sensors and actuators will need to be replaced. Most common failure is actually that inbuilt ECU where its internal circutry is subject to failure due to mostly overheating cause either fuel supply is restricted/compromised. Search "Bosch VP44" isuess your will see.... Those things are ticking time bombs..... Regards
  11. You will need to clarify which version of the ZD30 engine fuel injection is in yours. There are two types with completely different systems and different operation so giving you any advice is conditional upon that clarification. Regards
  12. Well, I'm assuming your engine has what is termed as radial injection pump which is not common rail system. What year is your vehicle? The link to E-bay is for common rail injection system. Is this how your engine looks like ==>
  13. G'day, The ZD30 pumps VP44 from Bosch/Zexel are expensive to fix and repair and made deliberately that way. Welcome to the scores of owners who have been cheated this way. If the engine has shut down chances are the injection pump kaput. These pumps are terrible and most parts in them are replace only. That's why clean fuel and regular attention to injection system are crucial to avoid this fate. I'm sorry but there is no other way out of it your mechanic is right. Regards
  14. The usual location of oil switches/sensors on ZD30 ===> Note bellow explanations refer to "common rail " version of ZD30 2007 onwards hovever the location is the same on previous model too. If you only have one than it is the one on LHS image. Which means no resistor either, easily checked by disconnecting the plug when engine run if the light is on it will go out..... Regards
  15. I'd lock hubs manually first to check. If it is CV then in most cases the clunk would be there only on full steering left or right lock. Personally I'd gut out auto hub lock clutch and be done with it if yours are auto locking hubs. That way it is on only when manual lock is engaged. If you have access to 4 axle stands then raise the vehicle of the ground and "drive" it that way so you pin point the source of the noise. Cheers
  16. G'day, The switches are not same, and the resistor is upgraded one. What might happen is that the replacement switch will fail again due to the resistor. That is/was explicit warning on the Nissan repair bulletin. Part numbers: LHS switch ---> 25240-8996E (low side) RHS switch ---> 25240-2X90 (high side) One of the difference is that RHS switch is marked with green circle as well. I tried to swap them around as to what will happen and the oil light will not go out if the low side switch is on the high side! Regards
  17. RD28 engine is notorious for warped engine head due to overheating and subsequent coolant loss..... White smoke is usually coolant being burned especially when doing it hot. The blue smoke is usually indication of burning engine oil. Having said that white or grey smoke can be also a symptom of unburned diesel fuel especially when cold due to glow lugs not operating properly. Coolant will leave "tell tale" traces where it leaks so if it is external leak you should be able to find it. If you can that means coolant is leaking in to combustion chamber of any cylinder. What is the engine oil like, does it look milky grey? Anyway, any mechanic worth its spanners would do following ..... Pressure test cooling system both when engine is cold and hot to find external leaks first. May be then start looking inside, take glow plugs out or injectors and carry compression test etc. Regards
  18. G'day, 1. NO, because it is on the suction side and if it only takes several presses and it goes hard then that is normal behavior. 2. Yes, you can have air entering from the priming pump diaphragm Use of injector cleaner create sometimes more problems then it is worth. Did you change fuel filter as well? If you did, it is possible that the filter installation is not correct and it is bypassing the sealing or that extra "O" ring everyone ignores..... Anyway, this is a dreaded fault for anyone "lucky enough" to own vehicle with that abomination made by Bosch the VP44 radial injection pump. What you should really do is to check ICV % via Nissan "datascan" or ECU talk software and Consult cable while engine is running. Anything less then 35% duty cycle at idle indicates issues with fuel delivery to the pump. It should be around 50%-70% under load and on deceleration even higher. To identify issue with air in the fuel is very difficult. You will need to ensure that fuel lines are sound including steel lines and pick up in the tank. That's why it is essential to be able to compare ICV% values/readings as you perform diagnostics. * Change fuel filter in case it is blocked with what cleaner has created and bleed the system thoroughly first if you can. * Check/Decide if running new fuel lines and hose clamps might fix the issue *If problem persist create/make temporary clear see through fuel lines/hoses running from the pipe in the chassis to the filter and from filter to the pump so you can visualize what air if any is coming in. * if still there run the lines from spare jerry or bucket filled with clean diesel fuel to eliminate fuel lines leading to fuel filter depending on above step. * Depending on the outcome of previous checks try another fuel filter housing to eliminate priming pump diaphragm if the air in the fuel is still present. * If the problem persist it is possible that the injection pump is failling and the big bill is coming your way. If you have access to compressed air and are handy with creating temp blanking plugs then I'd disconnect the fuel line from the injection pump, blank its end and then disconnect line at the tank and pressurize the line with max 75-85 kPa and check for air leaks. That will tell you quite quickly if there is an issue with the tightness of the system. Also don't discount possibility for fault in the electrical harness on the pump. Good luck
  19. What a mess! Soldering wires if done properly should not affect readings however soldering is not performing well under mechanically stresed connections. If I was repairing that loom I'd make intermediate plug/crimp joint in the wires but thats me, even RAAF teaches its technicians that "soldering is for PCBs and crimping for cables and I had same training for my trade from the vehicle manufacturers.... As with the chip your best bet if you really want to know is to expose its internals aka check the PCB with all the electronic hardware. Like this one ==> Essentially repackaged DTE chip the grand daddy of them all. Anyway, yours seems awfully like the DPU system or Diesel Power Unlimited I found the link to to it on Russian E-bay (DPU chip) Regards
  20. G'day, For which model of GU is this unit for? Is it for ZD30 VP44 injection pumps? The sad reality is that for the most if not all of these aftermarket "piggy back" controllers is that they're usually repackaged same electronics from just one manufacturer. As for the plugs or perhaps entire loom the best chance is to go to wreckers. Technically they should also be available as spare parts but the cost is usually very high. Regards
  21. G'day, Welcome to the forum, feel free to share your thoughts, tips whatever. Regards
  22. Gday, welcome, Hmm, interesting choice of an engine, I have personally never heard of such conversion and can only speculate following: Being a Jag motor I can only imagine the astronomical costs of everything for it and also given they're such niche vehicle the parts availability might be a problem. Since no one has probably contemplated such conversion there will be zero aftermarket parts available for it too so everything would have to be custom fabbbed for it.... The reason why GM LS series engine conversion are so popular is because the parts are plentiful and there are number of vendors who supply ready to bolt on adapters, brackets and what have you which makes the whole project much more manageable plus so many people have done it that help/advice is freely available. Regards
  23. G'day, Every logical explanations points to not being the air cleaner or fuel filter, however I do recommend to inspect and change as contaminated air cleaner will foul MAF sensor and contaminated fuel filter will ruin the fuel system and indeed ZD30 of 2005 and earlier vintage has a very weak and fragile injection pump which doesn't tolerate such issue very well and for long. So, if the engine doesn't seem to labor or appears under heavy load like after the fault occurs (hence how it freely revs up stationary) we can discount exhaust blockage (sometimes exhaust catalyst can be faulty and as it heats up it can collapse and cause exhaust restriction which is usually manifested by lack of power and a lots of black smoke. But that wouldn't clear after 1 minute engine off scenario either.... However to be able to actually do any diagnosing you do need to see what the engine is doing, e.g turbo boost at the point of failure, engine sensors reading (MAF voltages vs RPM vs TPS position) So in the case of turbo boost there is clear relationship between power output, smoke output so if the values don't support healthy operation one can start pin point the probable cause. Because your vehicle is stock it will be very difficult without an access to engine telematics to ascertain anything. The only thing you can do is to check under the hood when stationary and even then only visual checks. This what I would do if it was happening to mine, and I do have ability to read engine sensors on the fly and have extra boost gauge and exhaust gas temperature probe and gauge installed. Using ECU Talk LCD interface I would scan boost pressure and MAF voltage vs TPS% and turbo actuator% and injection pump timing solenoid% while also observing EGT temps. Low boost will increase EGTs under heavier load and I will also be able to see MAF voltages and be able to deduce if there is an issue with either system. As an example faulty MAF signalling can affect the way ECU controls fuelling and that in effect can cause smoke, lack of power etc. I would change air and fuel filters, run engine at the idle when there is no issue and check the VGT actuator (turbo) is fully up and re-check it again when the failure occurs ( this could indicate that either the control system is malfunctioning, or there is vacuum leak under the specific conditions.) I would check and also disable either temporarily or permanently the intake swirl control circuit just in case it accidentally jams closed restricting the intake (which can have the effect you're experiencing.) Another step I'd do would be to disable EGR circuit to see if that is playing up however that opens up another can of worms for those who don't grasp the concept. Faulty EGR valve which fails to close intermittently can cause similar symptoms you are experiencing. Basically something is interfering with proper way the engine air induction, fuel quantity and exhaust extraction is functioning. It could be either wrong input causing wrong output (or bullchit in bullchit out) or intermittent failure of control circuit for either of those systems. Regards
  24. Okay, each to their own..... technical facts are that water to air inter-cooling is not as efficient as air to air systems. Unless you are planning completely self closed system independent of engine cooling system where the cooling liquid medium is also something else then water the air to air system is better. Pure fact is that inter-cooling or heat exchanging via engine coolant will always stop at engine operating temperature in this case 87°C to 89°C vs air inter-cooling which at its worst will be usually at 20°C above ambient air temperature so even in the extreme outback scenario of 50°C ambient air temperature the air intake temperature is at 70°C still less then it would be with other application. The key is the lower the temperature of incoming air the more dense it is therefore more oxygen is available to the engine combustion process. In most if not all automotive applications the water inter-cooling is done because either air to air system is not possible or impractical or as a cheaper arrangement to improve on no inter-cooling at all. That is however not always the case indeed air to air and water to air can complement each other too subject to non standard or more complex turbo charging systems like sequential multi turbos systems for example. It is uncommon to switch from air to air systems to water to air systems unless there is a specific reasoning and or additional changes are made for the applications. Since ZD30 is already inter-cooled even though it is TMIC (Top Mounted Inter Cooler) which has it own issues with heat soak switching to engine coolant based inter-cooling seems like a backward step. Going FMIC (Front Mounted Inter Cooler) under specific set of circumstances is the improvement. Unless of course you are planning something very special but given you mention the cost of $100, it is very unlikely though do tell us what is the system like. The best bet would be to combine the two perhaps. Regards
  25. Can we get a blue theme going again? This red one makes it too familiar with the others.... Cheers
  • Create New...