2004 ZD30 Where does crank sensor send its signal, what have I cooked

[dagwill]

Hi everyone my name is David Williams from Lyndoch Sth Australia, PLease help ive been off the road for a month,, cant solve my problem

Short story, Stupidly while testing and not thinking sent 12v back along crank sensor signal line, which I now have learned runs on a 5v system. Heard louder than normal click of a realay or solenoid, sounded as though it came from center driving compartment behind firewall, [not sure, could have been an echo ]
now wont start, cracked injector line, no fuel being pumped on cranking
Not sure if ive damaged on board computer or cooked the box on top of IP [hope not ]
checked all fuses under dash, all ok.
From diagrams i have found it looked like all wires going to IP came via ECM so hopefully IP is ok. Can anyone help me to narrow down what the problem now is [which I think ive created myself ]
Not showing any fault codes. ?
Thanks David

Edited October 18, 2022 by dagwill

[Rumcajs]

I'm sorry but that sounds likely you've cooked up ECM itself as that ECM is located right in the centre just next clutch pedal above transmission hump.

Fingers crossed you've just blown ECM relay power supply fuses.

However, are you sure that system works at 5V?  The crank sensor is sending pulse voltage indeed at 2000 RPM pulse signal is reaching 12V with 5 ms pulse.

You can check if the ECM is kaput by observing if glow plugs light comes on briefy when ignition key is turned on or does MIL light turn on at all?

I'd try ECU Talk software and cable to attempt to connect to ECM to see what happens. If you check all the fuses/fusible links and all is OK but no ECM response you can ssume the worst.  It is also possible that you've blown the crank sensor or that part of the circuit in the ECM...

Engine will not start unless ECM sends command to IP ECU.

B/R

[dagwill]

Thanks Rumcajs

Ign off, nats light flashin about once every 3 sec.

Ign on, nats light on, glow plug light on for several seconds, MIL light on [not flashing ]

crancking, nats light on, MIL light off. Engine does not start, no fuel at cracked injector line ,fuel pump primer hard.

Edited October 18, 2022 by dagwill

[dagwill]

Found this, if i carefully do this it sounds as though i can count out any damage to IP, is that correct?

 

No Fuel At Injectors

HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START

It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire.Use a set of dykes and cut the flat part and one of the "curls" away from each spade connector to leave one "curl" , which will be about the right size to go over the pin on the pump. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!.

Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case.

IF YOU HAVE FUEL, POWER AND GROUND, PROVEN BY THE ABOVE TESTS AND STILL HAVE NO START AFTER TEST 3, YOU ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY NEED AN INJECTION PUMP!

[Rumcajs]

Ok, I think you need to explain what is going on. So far it appears that your issue all along is that engine is not starting and not crank sensor being cooked. Hence my confusion why you're going on about IP issues. 

Firstly check all the grounds and power supplies.

Ensure that battery is able to crank as weak battery causes lower cranking speed/RPMs which can cause no start.

Ensure glow plugs are sound, ZD30 hates to start bellow 15°C without glow.

Confirm there is no air in the fuel between filter and IP. Firm primer means jack.

The instruction you've found are for 6 cylinder version of VP44 as fitted to yankie utes with Cummins engine..

It should technically work but without glow plugs it will need to be tried when is warmer weather above 22°C

You can also make your own pump module diagnostic interface, instructions including software are posted here. That could help you

communicate with pump module to see if it self reports an issue. Bosch diesel injection specialists have such tool.

How many kays? If above 200k consider to remove IP correctly and send it to diesel specialist for rebuild, including replace injectors.

Do you have any mods done like additional fuel lift pump, etc?

I do recommend to invest in ECU Talk cable/interface if you have a laptop, that way you can coms with ECM and see a bit more then flash code MIL.

B/R