Ultra-Gauge and CRD fuel economy.

[Bogmeister]

I have just got an Ultra-gauge. Its pretty cool and shows all kinds of info, most of which I have no interest in. The reason I bought it was to reset my Check Engine Light after an EGT block. Agter fitting the gadget to my 08 CRD I had a small job starting in Charleville, SWQ and ending in Toowoomba, SEQ. A round trip of about 1200km. The CRD is overboosting but I have ordered a Dawes Valve to stop this. I am averaging about 12lph. The thing that has made me start this thread is the fact that when I over boost, the fuel consumption rockets to 16lph, Has anyone with poor fuel economy figures on a CRD tried an Ultra-gauge or a Dawes Valve?

[Gissmo]

Just a quick question does this gauge work on a 2003 ZD30 engine?

[Rumcajs]

Just a quick question does this gauge work on a 2003 ZD30 engine?

Nope, it only works on vehicles with OBDII port which 2003 ZD30 hasn't got.

Nissan implenmented the OBDII port/protocol only after being forced by law!

It is mandatory on all vehicles from 2007 onwards. So in Nissan Patrol case only on CrD models.

Cheers

Edited November 22, 2012 by Rumcajs

[Gissmo]

Cheers mate

[TaffWest]

Have recently fully blocked EGR on my 2008 CRD after using EGR block plate with 9mm hole. I drive the Patrol every week day (52 k's to work and 52 k's home with deviations) havn't seen a ' Check engine' warning light yet. In fact my boost guage hasn't been over 15-16 psi since full block. First test drive after full block i saw the boost jump to 20 psi for the first time. Turned down VNT stop 1/3 of a turn and havn't seen a 20 psi since. Back to 16 psi max. (no towing). Will check egt's when probe arrives. Have already done the mech/fab/weld to take probe.

Have cleaned MAF and MAP cleaned intercooler (internally) Provent 200 fitted, no exhaust mods.

How soon after block did you see 'Check Engine Light' and do you have any exhaust mods.

 

Did you isolate battery when blocking EGR.

 

Every time i alter a peformance parameter i always disconect battery for at least an hour. According to 'Newbies start here' reference document. There it recomends at least '20 minutes' battery isolation. (Reset ECU)?

 

Any Thoughts

[Rumcajs]

 Here is a better one, no need to wait an hour after disconnecting positive terminal. If not having aux battery connected, (has to be isolated) temporarily earth out the positive lead from the starter(main) battery on the chassis somewhere (there must be no connection to positive terminal on the battery whatsover anywhere, this will discharge the capacitors in ECU immediately. Do so at your own risk!

 

I'm still not convinced about this biz with disconnecting the battery. I'm gona check if/how engine ECU is connected to direct battery feed in that case taking a relay or fuse feeding it should be sufficient if thats the case.

I believe that power feed is via ignition switch (gotta check it but Nissan's wiring diagrams are such a mess to read/make sense out.) so that would make the whole thing irrelevant.

 

Cheers

[Bogmeister]

I did a full block on my EGR. I want absolutely no egr in my motor. That is what causes the engine light but it only seems to happen if I use the fast warm up button. I dont use it much at this time of year anyway. Winter will be a different issue

[TaffWest]

OK this what i think is happening! I have also fully blocked EGR but have not yet used the engine fast warm switch as WA summer temps mean the engine warms up pretty quick anyway. (No ckeck engine warnings)

 

My opinion is when you use fast warm up switch, the ECU increases idle speed but i also think it calls for a lot of EGR. What quicker way to heat up a cold engine than to redirect hot exhaust gases into the combustion process.

The fact that it automatically turns itself off when you engage a gear means this large demand for EGR is only used during fast warm up. The fact that the EGR is blocked means the ECU would trigger a 'Check Engine' warning light as there would be no EGR available.

EGR is called for at other times in the combustion cycle but not it seems as much.

 

Thoughts anyone

[Rumcajs]

I'm not familiar with inner workings of EGR control on CrD but it should relatively simple to establish if there is any more advanced control based on flow rate and emmisions level.

E*R shimm/block involves interfering with a flow of exhaust gases to intake manifold so for ECU to know there is a block of some sort preventing a flow there must be sensor of some kind to monitor E*R flow rate/pressure drop of some kind. So seeing something bolted in that area would confirm that is the case. If it does it based on the VGT pressure difference for boost vs intake flow (MAF) than it will be harder to bypass.

So perhaps those with CrD ZD30 could investigate weird sensors near EGR to inlet manifold perhaps take a pics.

Cheers

Edited February 9, 2013 by Rumcajs