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Rumcajs

DIY Aftermarket cruise control installation

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ATTENTION! Due to the Photobucket  phenomenal cockup all images in this thread are now lost! I hope those swines just disappear in to the dust bin of history....

I'll try to repost images and restore as time permits but it will be time consuming process. Sorry!

 

Lets face it, cruise control installation in GU Patrol is a bit of nasty joke, the factory setup is just pathetic and until now most aftermarket units were overpriced with no self instalation option.

Finally though things are changing and what appears to be a hope for us there are number of kits available on E-bay which are tailored to Nissan Patrols GU series from 2000-2008.

Available with either factory steering wheel OEM installation unit (more expensive) or a aftermarket stalk option (cheaper).

So, the links

the stalk option ==> Cruise control kit NI05S Nissan Patrol GU Wagon 2000-2008 2.8 & 3.0Tdi DBW

the steering wheel switch module ==> Cruise Control Kit Nissan Patrol GU Wagon 2004-2008 3.0 Tdi with genuine control switch

 

We'll describe the fitment of the kit with steering wheel mounted controls.

Read and follow enclosed instructions carefully and refer to following:


WARNINGS! SRS Airbag is highly dangerous to manipulate if precautions are not followed.

Disconnect battery/ies both negative (first) and positive terminals and wait about 5 mins.

Remove covers (2x) on either side of the steering wheel with seal pick tool or small blade screw driver





Exposed screws can be removed by using tamper proof Torx bit.

Carefully withdraw the SRS Airbag asssembly far enough to access the plugs






To remove the airbag connector first unlock the black safety locking tab by prying it carefully up using a pick, then unplug the rest
Picture shows how it suppose to look like



Unplug the horn and clock spring plug and disengage it from the metal tab so you can rest the airbag on a seat while removing the blanking panel for the switches panel.



Unscrew the bolts remove the blank and fit the switches panel, put the SRS airbag assembly aside in the safe place.



Unlock the harness with single horn wire by pulling the locking tab out with a pick far enough so you can clearly see the terminal inside.



In the instructions it says



That was my case, I made sure by using multimeter and measured on the underside of the SW (steering wheel) clock spring connectors if they match the following instruction



So pause here and confirm which wire is which. The terminals will only insert one way observe the existing horn wire terminal and it will be obvious which way.
 

To remove lower side clock spring connector/s care needs to takes as they're a little harder to remove as the unlocking tab is very hard to push in by fingers so a small screwdriver and extra care should handle it. The grey connector comes out first (the only one to remove anyway)

Picture bellow shows how it suppose to look (it is the yellow connector as an example only)




It is the grey plug and secondary terminal lock needs to be released before the terminals can be inserted and again terminals will only fit one way.



After fitting the terminals push the lock back in ( I had a trouble to push one of the terminals all the way so I used small point nose pliers to pull it in (again check with the position of the existing wire/terminal)

Plug lower side clock spring connectors back in,

Plug top clock spring side plug in (3 wires now, yellow, white and black)



Refit SRS Airbag assembly making sure all is plugged in, secured and not fouling on anything



Refit screws and covers.

Remove lower dash panel (1x screw + 2x screws for fuel cap release lever and 2x screws for bonnet catch release lever and push on clips) to gain access to the underside where pedals are. (I removed the side panel next to accelerator pedal as well as space is restricted and TPS plugs are harder to reach.)



Fit clutch switch if required (manual) as per instructions

Route harness as you wish so the TPS plugs, brake pedal switch plug (if manual clutch switch plug) can be reached and plugs connected. Ensure that no wiring for the cruise control can be snagged by the pedal linkage movement!

I used main harness around accelerator assembly as a guide and the top bolt of U bracket (keeping the harness safe) for it to mount the CC control unit behind the accelerator pedal assembly using a piece of flat ally)



For the ignition supply wire (I only solder PCBs) reused spare ABS ignition fuse feed with this little gadget ==>

SF5125ImageMain-515Wx515H.jpg

Double Mini Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap | Jaycar Electronics

For speed signal wire blue/orange (pin 20 centre plug):

Unplug the harness for the speed signal wire to identify which one as per instruction which are BW so here is the colour version



I have made Y piece wiring piece/plugs to connect instead of soldering

Once everything is connected it is time to test it. Leave the diode harness hanging free so you can decide where to fit it later once everything works as it should.

Reconnect battery in reverse order of disconnecting.

While standing outside (so if SRS Airbag goes off for chit and giggles you are not inside) turn the ignition key on and wait for warning lamps etc. to go out.

Test the cruise control ON switch, the diode should light up green.

Time for the road test. The cruise control diode should change a little to give orange when the cruise control is set.

If everything works fit the diode by drilling the hole somewhere as appropriate. e.g.

 

Enjoy long drives without cramped up right foot!




Refit panels.

Huge thanks to Dronus for putting me up for this by posting his built on P4x4 forum.

 

 

 

Edited by Rumcajs

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Well it has been over a month now and I love this cruise control system even more. Works flawlessly and has none of the factory OEM design stupidity or lunacy. Absolutely brilliant. The impotence and incompetence of Nissan Co is simply astounding.

My only wish is to find the way to disable that idiotic 30km/h limit.....

Regards

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