lovejones

ok ill keep this a brief as i can whilst out traveling the engine light came on. thought nothing of it tbh as it used to flicker on ruff terrain. anyway, around that time i started to lose power, id be driving say 100kph and then it would slow down to about 80kph, it felt like the turbo wasn't working, i rev two or 3 times and then would kick back in. i thought that maybe the i/c had cracked or similar (it does have some oil around two corners, and i noticed some oil leakage down the left side. not much) i took the i/c off gave it a clean and then see how it went, it run fine for a fair few k's then the same issue, this was a reoccurring event. i then disconnected the battery to see if this would clear the engine light, it did, and for about 300k was fine, then when i hit some corrugated road it came on. i did the same, was fine again, until i did a u turn. so as you can guess, there is no factor that is the same for the engine light to come on, nor distance, i have driven a couple ks and it comes on, i have also driven 500ks before it came on and id lose power. the turbo played up a bit then was fine for a week or so, and was until the car decided to lose all the instrument panel ( rev counter, speed counter, fuel gauge, sub tank gauge etc) then the air bag light came on flashing and the sub tank light as well as the engine light. it got me home whilst i held the secondary battery button in. so battery dead, check the nator, it appears its given up. no issue, ill get another. so, i have just replaced the nator and checked and its running at 14.63, so that solved that issue. however, i still have that bloody engine light on. i am wondering, do i need to clear the memory, if the engine light came on due to the nator giving up (though doesn't explain power loss), now the new one is in, would the engine light go out or does it need to be cleared? cheers for your help. the car is the gu grenade 230000ks

I understand your point, however, (and whilst i havnt looked any further in the manual) my example is if i follow the guide for dismantle of gearbox, it advises mount adapter plate onto vice, remove OD and fork rod, mine doesnt have an adapter plate, its a solid unit, i cannot work without taking the shafts out (shame really as the adapter plate scenario looks so much easier to work with). Id prefer to have a manual for the box i have instead of assuming and going gungho only to find ive done something i a) dont need to do, something wrong. Cheers

Hi All hoping someone can help me, i am looking for a GU workshop manual, does anyone know where i can download one from for free. I am not opposed to paying, however, the two i have got that i believed were for my GU, appear different. I have a 2001 3.0ltr ST and the manuals i have are for GU 1998 - 2010, however, i am currently in the throws of doing some work on it but when i look at the manuals i have they do not match the parts i am working on. any help greatly appreciated. Cheers

Thanks Rumcajs yes i had to remove the the cross member (though was my plan to do this last) this allowed for me to lower the rear enough to get a ratchet extension in there to undo the bolts, i had undone the bolts for the starter motor and this didnt cause me any issues at all. yes the manual is not the greatest imho, but if thats the best they got it has to do. i have scoured the net and quite surprised at the minimal information there is for gearbox's. stage two will be a headache (pulling gearbox apart to replace stuffed gear and shaft) unfortunately no-one up here where i live does gearbox's and cant afford to freight it. thanks again

Thanks Rumcajs, will leave both in gear. One other question, what is the best way to get to the two bolts at the top of the bell housing? i dont want a debate on how to drop a gearbox, ie engine in / out etc, so anyone who has done this with the engine in, how did you get to those two bolts, i can get a spanner in there (just) but it sits to tight to the firewall and i am unable to get hold of it. there is no room for a ratchet so thats out of the question. thanks

Hi all, Just a quick question, in the process of having to rebuild gearbox due to shaft issues. i am going to remove the transfer case first then the gearbox. do both the transfer and gearbox need to be in neutral to split, or does it make no difference? cheers

ive got same model, 200k on odo, same thing, no mods done. has service history and all seems fine. with a diesel i expect to double the odo, it will either continue to run without blowing up or it wont, it is not a garuntee that all engines that have not had nads done will blow up, its actually a small % that have considering the amount that have been sold here in Aus. like all vehicles, some run for ever some dont