bistratoaie

@Rumcajs I followed the DTC diagnosing procedure for the 0703 pump comm code and everything checked out to be okay, I did take the IP connector off and out again and gave it one more good spray all over and checked the wires again and all was good. I made sure to install it correctly and out of the way as well as zip tie it to a bracket to reduce any movement while driving. Alsosprayed the MAF connector and EGR connector and connected that back up since it was unplugged. Although some wires are no good and have been cut/frayed so I need a wiring diagram for the EGR connector! I also removed the ECU connector and sprayed thoroughly in there and the ECU terminals as well and did it up nice and tight to see the orange (although I did it too tight and the 10mm bolt and plastic bit snapped off somewhere so I need a new plastic casing part which covers all the wires and screws in if you know where I can get one?) 😫 I primed the pump 2 times in which it went hard and it started up first go with only a couple seconds of cranking, I think the pump comm line must be good now 😁 now to test in a couple hours when I have work!

@Rumcajs thanks mate I hope I haven't disturbed anything permanently! I will go over it tomorrow morning and diagnose from there and will report back, cheers for your help

@Rumcajs So once again, left it to sit overnight thinking I'd take it to work in the morning. I was ready to leave at 5am it was around 7°c, I waited for the glow plug light to go off and turned the key off and back to ignition a couple times but the car just cranked over and over for a few seconds without firing up until the battery got tired again. Only code I had was 0703 pump comm line. After work, I disconnected the 9pin plug on the back of the IP as well as from the harness and also the glow plug harness connector and gave them all a really good direct spray with contact cleaner and there was a little bit of dust and dirt in them but I cleaned them all right out! Had battery disconnected while I was doing all the work and when I finally finished (took me about an hour all up), I connected it all back up and went to start her and just cranked a few times and battery got tired again. Checked codes and still had 0703 pump comm line? I'm confused now, not sure what to do from here? 🙄 Got battery on charge again, will try to start it after the arvo shift.

So just an update: I replaced the crank sensor with the new one and ran the wiring up the same way out of the way of the clutch fan and pulleys so as to not fray the wiring like the old one. I also found a pinched vacuum line under the intercooler (not sure which one it was), but I cut off at the pinched area and rerouted it to sit nicely with no more kinks. I had the 0407 crankshaft code, 1003 egr code and also had a 0703 pump comm line code before commencing the work. Before and after replacing the sensor, I could not get it to start and the battery was dying so I once again took the terminals off to reset the ECU and charge the battery overnight. Connected it all back up this morning and went to start her and she fired right up after a little white smoke. She was idling really good for 5 or so minutes before I turned her off and started her again to make sure she would fire up nicely and sure again, she fired right up with no issues at all. Took her for a 15min drive in all gears up to 100km/h and safe to say so far, no issues at all! There was no hesitation or spluttering like before so hopefully I'm onto something here! The check engine light did come on and I suspected it was the EGR again and when I got back from my drive, I checked the codes and it was the EGR 1003 code only, so far so good!! Now to get rid of that damn limp mode around the 80-100km/h mark

@Rumcajs checked codes before replacing crankshaft sensor and I had 0407 - crankshaft sensor & 0703 - pump comm line Replaced crankshaft sensor to the same gap as the original sensor (0.8mm), and checked codes again, this time the crankshaft 0407 code had gone but 0703 was still there, do you know what might be causing this code? Thanks

Ah sorry mate, forgot you had posted them earlier 😅 I'm just waiting on a feeler gauge at the moment so I can correctly gap the sensor. Do you recommend taking anything off the front of the engine to access it? Or is it pretty accessible without removing engine parts? Thanks

I have since reset my ECU because it was not starting with the codes stored. I also cleaned all the earths on the manifold and the battery posts and terminals, and added a body to chassis earth underneath near the cross member. I also added an earth wire going from the MAF wiring to the body to help it have a good and proper ground as I was getting 0.04v on the Black wire when diagnosing. I have also replaced the fuel outlet hose and hose clamps from the fuel filter going to the IP as it was split and leaking a bit of diesel (maybe why I was getting code 0705?). Primed, and took 2 pumps to prime hard with no visual leaking or no noise of air leaking! I received my new MAF sensor and installed today, car started nicely after installing, haven't done any test driving yet as I know I need to replace the crank sensor which I have but am waiting on a feeler gauge to gap it correctly. Do you know what the correct gap is for the crank sensor? Is there a specific way to remove/install it? Thanks.

No worries, is there anywhere online I can look at to read the injection pump codes? Ah that's good news because I have a small and slight leak from the fuel filter hose directly to the injector pump so that could definitely cause that issue? It doesn't sound like the injection pump is faulty then?

@Rumcajs how did you find out exactly what code 0705 was? Is there a list of injection pump codes anywhere?

Thankyou very much this all a VERY BIG HELP in diagnosing my issues. If you have a read in the other forum where I posted my issues, it shows some MAF readings I got and a couple of pictures I think have to do with my issue, and the 0705 - air in the fuel, just confirmed my suspicions with the fuel line from the fuel filter to the Injector pump. https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/gu-zd30-di-hesitation-starting-issues.411931/

Mine has the same plug as the OBD2 socket image you sent, would I need an ECU talk cable with that OBD2 plug for it to work with the software? Thanks for all that mate! I will be doing some tests tomorrow in-between work and I will let you know what I find!

Ah so which cables would I need exactly to work with my vehicle? Like I said, it's got the OBD2 adapter under the steering wheel in the foot well but I know it runs on Nissan's consult protocol. Yeah I have all those mods done to mine so I'm not surprised about the MAF sensor fault. The EGR is blocked off so that's not an issue for me, that shouldn't affect driving. I can see bare wire on that crankshaft sensor connector so looks like 2 new sensors so far for me!

Yes they are all active as of now, I've checked my MAF voltage output on the pins via another forum and my readings are lower than what they should be so MAF sensor is definitely an issue. The crank sensor also has a split right near the connector that's exposing the actual wire so that's probably why I have the crankshaft code. I have ECUtalk software but I can't get it to work with my Bluetooth OBD2 adapter for the life of me! If I fiddle with the pump harness could that affect it in any way? Are they very sensitive?

If I check to see the wiring harness is okay will I also disturb it? Is it easily accessible? I have these ECU codes; 1003 - EGR Volume Control Valve 0406 - INT / AIR Volume (Excessively High Signal From MAF) 0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor 0705 - Pump Control Module It is a 2001 Patrol GU with ZD30 DDti engine.

@Kranwa did you ever get this solved?

following

Hi all, So a few weeks back I bought my first GU, engine has had a full rebuild with receipts & about 50,000kms driven since rebuild was done. EGR blocked, 3" echaust fitted and dyno sheets showing boost up to be 18psi I believe on stock boost solenoid. Now, at first all I had was the usual limp mode from the EGR being blocked as well as the check engine light from the EGR, the boost would spike up to 20psi and be in a limp mode until you let off the accelerator and back on again, it was annoying for long trips on the highway but still driveable. So my plan was to get a HPD manual boost controller fitted to fix the limp mode issues. But I noticed one day that the boost was running slightly lower then when I first bought her, she would only go to around 14psi which I thought nothing of until the boost controller was going to be fitted. Then after filling up with diesel, around 10 minutes into my drive home I felt a weird jerk/judder in the car almost like all fuel just cut out for s split second then back to normal. Watching the boost gauge, the boost also dropped out too as you would expect so I thought it was a boost problem. It slowly got worse over time becoming a lot more frequent it does it just above 2,000rpm and around 10-13psi of boost, started in 5th gear, now in 4th and 3rd as well but only around those rpms and boost levels. It also took a bit longer to start in the mornings letting out a puff of white smoke I think, not blue. I took it to a diesel specialist about an hour away as I'm in regional Victoria and they called me the next day and said they scanned the car and got a code for the camshaft position sensor and the injection pump, so they said the issue is definitely the injection pump which they quoted me $5000 to do the job. I don't have that kind of $$ at the moment haha but after doing a bit of research on forums I've read up on MAF voltage causing the same kind of symptoms as well as a blocked fuel filter/air in the lines. I did clean the MAF with MAF cleaner before and it made no difference so while it was at the diesel specialist, I just told them to change the fuel filter for now and see if that makes a difference. So $150 later just for that, the guy called me saying that the car was running alright and didn't notice it playing up again, he also said they took the plugs off the injection pump and sprayed them with contact cleaner and all the codes disappeared aswell? I was very happy with that as you'd imagine. So I picked it up the next day and it was another hour to drive back home in which it was bound to do the same things if it wasn't fixed. On the way home it drove fine, only jolted/juddered about 4 times max (it would easily do it over 30 times before) so I thought replacing the fuel filter must have done something. I've had it back about a week almost and just been driving it to and from work, 5 mins there and 5 back. It's gone back to doing the same thing as before except this morning it wouldn't start after about 2 minutes of trying, it would crank but not start. I don't have a code reader that can read it. I did call Nissan and spoke to a mechanic for about 5 minutes and he said there's 3 common things to check first before replacing the pump, can't remember what they were off the top of my head but I do remember him saying something about the spill valve? I'm just wondering if anyone has had the same problems and what they did or their solutions before I spend $5000 on the injection pump and it may not even fix the problem. Thanks, Ben