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Thermostatic fan install to 2000 zd30 intercooler How to do it correctly


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G'day all.   First entry since joining.  My ZD had the usual cardiac arrest shortly after joining.  Got 287k out of it. Now completely rebuilt ($9.5k) and going great.  Fitted 3"redback exhaust, egr blocked (caused problems) now unblocked, fitted pyro and boost guages.  Am currently getting catch can fitted along with a 9"Davies Craig thermatic fan on the intercooler.

When I took the items to my motor rebuilder today, he stated that he hadn't fitted a fan before.  Can anyone give me some advice re the fitting of same so that I can pass it on to him please?.  I only took it back to him so that he couldn't imply "not his problem" if someting went wrong down the track.

Thanks   Gypsygiant

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G'day mate, welcome to the forum.


I don't get this part ==>


.....egr blocked (caused problems) now unblocked,



I suggest you block it ASAP and deal with the issues (overboost induced limps perhaps?) by fitting Dawes valve and needle valve control to wrestle the control of the turbo away from ECU.


It is for the benefit of the engine longevity and power output even though you seem to get reasonable amount out of it if it was all standard.


You should read up on NADS thread by Dronus ==>


The inter-cooler fan can be a bit of problem, as inter-cooler is mounted on the engine (unlike on CrDs or TD42Ti where its brackets are attached to body) and engine vibrations will rattle the fan in to oblivion. I'm on my second and it is coming out for good as I'm sick of dealing with it..


The fan is only good for slow driving in heavy terrain under high ambient temperatures (beach driving) if over 40 km/h it is not needed.


So if you drive long distances in excess of 60 km/h than forget the fan it is just not worth the hassles.


If you still insist on it make sure you'll have decent control of it as running it continuously will wear it out in no time as well as it will affect the battery charging rate as Nissan alternator is terrible for that.


So fitting adjustable thermal switch with "hysteresis" control (set high and low point of engagement and disengagement) let say kicking in at 50° C and cutting out at 40°C otherwise the constant cycling with just single engagement point 50° C will burn out the relay as it will chatter nonstop. Ideally you want to have the probe inside the inter-cooler on the hottest side so actual air temperature is considered. Getting such probe/control device is not always easy most of us use surface of the inter-cooler as sensing point with Jaycar 50°C surface temp switch which just a workaround nothing else.



Edited by Rumcajs
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Thanks Rumcajs.  Will take on board re egr.  Problems caused as you stated. Have dyno'd it before and after, run it on the highway, uphill and down dale, self tested at the recommended 26/27 hundred revs. etc etc.  Only thing that worked was removing the egr blockage plate.  I am not a mechanic and have little knowledge re the workings of the zd 30 engine and its electronics.  I'm having the catch can fitted hoping that it will eliminate the "gunk"build up.  Will also convey your experiences with the fan to the motor rebuilber.  Thanks.  Gypsygiant

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