JFF45

I was able to repair my conversion thread by opening an Imgur account to host the pics but f they do the same as PB I won't bother repairing again.

The pics were hosted by Photobucket but they no longer allow it so I've deleted my account there. As I moved to a TD42 I didn't keep the pics.

It's in a 6 metre extension I built onto an existing shed. I needed the workshop space and still have room to keep 2 cars. I couldn't get the same coloured tin. The original shed was 20 years old. See the faded door..

It's a shed job alright. Here's where I'm doing the trans

Yep, it's always an anxious moment when you turn the key after fitting it. It wouldn't take much to get something wrong if you weren't paying attention..

I know this will have limited interest but I noticed that the RE4R03A rebuild threads don't go into much detail on how to overhaul the valve body. This one happens to be a Nomad valve body that I bought used from a trans that had suffered an oil pump mishap so it had to be completely dismantled to make sure it was spotless. First you need to print out the relevant pages of the FSM and preferably put them under plastic. I also have the pages for the full trans overhaul in there as well. Prepare a nice clear workspace for yourself. I have this fairly big steel leg laminated table I got from the dump for $10. I used black plastic initially but it didn't like the ATF so I had to work directly on the table. It's really important when doing this kind of work, where parts need to go back in the correct order, to have some way of clearly and logically laying out those parts. I simply cut a length of aluminium flashing (Bunnings) and used some stainless rods I had to form a corrugated sheet. It bends easily by hand and takes 5 minutes to make. Simply follow the FSM and you can't go wrong. Wholesale Autos, who supply these valve bodies, make there own laser cut separator plate. Most shift kit makers (TransGo, Superior, etc) supply drill bits to modify the plate so this is obviously a more professional approach. The upper body has the majority of the valves so we start there. The pressure regulator (2nd from top) almost certainly has been modified judging by the red coloured spring. Most shift kits modify it as well. 5th from the top and 3rd from the bottom are machined parts that don't match the FSM. These are called Shuttle shift valves and originally they move against a spring with an end plug for the locking pin. These have the pin slot machined in the ends so they are effectively locked solid which is the obvious reason they no longer have a spring either. Here's a clearer pic of the parts.. Then we do the lower body. Same system, line the bits up in the corrugations in the order and sequence in which they're removed. I've now fitted this valve body to my TB45E in place of the valve body in which I fitted a TransGo shift kit a few years ago. This one might be slightly more precise in the 2-3 change but there's not much difference otherwise. A TransGo shift kit can be bought for ~$140 and I think the Nomad exchange valve bodies are now > $1000. I'm currently doing a complete rebuild of a RE4R03A from a TB45E but I'm building it to Infinity Q45 (the 4.5 lt V8) specs with the extra clutches. I'll do a thread with pics when I've finished it.

Here's an option for IC fan control. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112617/article.html It's what I'll be using for the IC fan control for my turbo install. I found one on Ebay for a little over $20 delivered..

TB45E MAF rarely have issues. If you have an Ecutalk, you can log a run and check voltages. I have some Excel files with logged MAF data, also have some graphs I did of RPM vs MAF. Also have a spare MAF here if you need to try another one before buying.

Cheers guys, hope it's useful for others.

Just thought I'd add some pics of fittings on the turbo. I initially used an adapter for the oil feed with the 1mm restrictor (as shown a bit earlier) but I was never really happy with the number of connectors needed to guide the feed line in. This is what I mean - there's the adapter/restrictor then a F to F -4AN elbow (couldn't find F to M) then a M to M union to be able to fit the elbow from the feed line. Then I found this the other day.. a banjo fitting with the 1mm restrictor in the banjo bolt and a -4AN inlet. This is also a much lower profile and allows a lot better access to one of the T3 flange nuts. With the previous connectors, I had to clock the turbo a couple of degrees more to make sure I could get a socket onto the flange nut. Here's a pic of how all the fittings should be as seen from the block side. The oil feed is much neater now. The water cooling will be also be banjo fittings with -6AN cones (also from Kinugawa) and the oil drain is -10AN. I've seen installations where rubber hoses have been used for both the water cooling and the oil drain but the teflon braided hoses and fittings are not a lot more expensive if you source them from Ebay and make them yourself. They certainly look a lot better..

Cheers mate, I appreciate your comments

Good, useful info! I seem to recall it was also advised to place a disconnected airbag on a solid floor (outside the vehicle, of course) with the vinyl side up.

As I mentioned at the start of this thread, I'm running an auto trans with this project and I added a Davies Craig cooler for the trans fluid. This involved relocating one half of the power steering cooler from the right to the left side and I thought it might be of interest to others how cheaply this can be done. For those using a manual box, this might also be a handy mod if they want to mount a radiator for a W2A IC. This is the standard layout on a TB45E.. ..and this is what we want to achieve: These are aluminium tubes and I have nothing to weld them.. and they are probably too thin for the average amateur to attempt to weld anyway. As luck would have it, the tubes are just the right size for these 1/2 brass plumbing elbows with the nylon olives.. You just need to be able to silver solder a short length of copper tube with 2 copper elbows to join this part here: I decided to retain the original trans cooler and connect it in series with the new Davies Craig. I had to move the original ~25mm forward. This is the finished mod. I've been running it now for over 6 months and not the slightest sign of an issue. There's very little pressure there anyway. From memory, cost of the brass elbows for this mod was <&#36;15.. This is the cooler I used. Bought from Ebay. The highest temp reading I've seen since is 80C. Before the extra cooler I could get it to ~105C so a turbo installation definitely needs this mod. Standard temp on the highway with the TC locked is between 60 & 70C which is almost a little too cool. I'm also planning on removing the cooling pipes that run through the radiator. There has been more than one report of failure of these pipes resulting in mixing of trans fluid and coolant in both the trans and the engine.

You can be sure that neither the Y62 owners nor the LC200 owners care much about those kinds of reports..

I discarded the original TI stainless barwork & bumper and found an alloy bar on Gumtree for &#36;250. Now to fit the alloy bar and adjust the fairlead. I did the cutout for the fairlead with an air body saw fitted with a broken hacksaw blade. .. and no, the rope doesn't hang there now. It was just for the pic

I ran the solenoid controller wires through the firewall and fitted the original plug under the steering with a small cutout switch. I also found a momentary rocker switch at Jaycar that's a replacement for the hand controller switch so I mounted it under the dash as a 2nd choice. Could be handy if I break or lose the hand controller. To finish off, I added a pretty bright LED to let me know if I've left the controller 'armed'..

Solenoid and cabling The collective wisdom says to get the solenoid up out of the weather. There's no room to clip it onto the winch rails anyway. Very simple to take apart and remove the controller plug. Part of the reason these winches are cheap is that the wiring is not real thick. If the winch is made to work hard, you'll get voltage drop and, consequently (Ohm's law, remember), increased current. Original wire appears to be 2 gauge (<35mm2). I went for 0 gauge (~50mm2) from my local Jaycar store. Got the lugs from Ebay, $26 for pack of 10 delivered. A lot cheaper than Supercheap but Jaycar prices are pretty reasonable. Got this 12 ton hydraulic hex crimper also from Ebay for $54.90 delivered. It worked well but only after I used the 35mm dies following the 50mm dies. The 50mm dies just weren't tight enough. I found this when I soldered the opening as corrosion-proofing and the solder wicked through the crimp. With the 35mm dies I have a good gas-tight crimp. I made up a small bracket and fitted the solenoid alongside the battery. I couldn't find a better place to put it. It's ideal for cable lengths and cable routing. I need to change it so it just clips in there in case I need quicker access to the relays. Had to make up this brass spacer to allow the cable to pass over the solenoid. Routed the cabling through the hole where the horn wire was. Added some loom tube to the hole over the original plastic ring. I made the bracket to pass the cables over the bumper mount and covered it with 3 layers of heatshrink.

This is how I did the protection for under the radiator and replaced the plastic air deflector. I wanted to copy the original plastic item as closely as possible, especially the angle, so I made a 12mm square frame first then gusseted the corners.. Had to buy the 3mm steel sheet and cut it to size with my Ebay plasma cutter. This is my spray booth.. Fits exactly as planned..

Everyone seemed to think it was a good idea to check the grease in the gearbox before installing it so that's what I did. Happy to find that it was plentiful.. Very simple to take apart..

I bought a Supercheap Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch when they were having one of their 35% off sales. Paid $565 for it. This thread is about how I made my own winch mount, installed the winch and made some 3mm plate protection under the radiator and extended it to replace the factory plastic air deflector. I did this to fit with the factory alloy bumper bar. I started with the idea that I wanted to use as much metal scrap as I could find in my shed. Main component is a length of 50 x 75 x 3mm wall RHS with bits of 6mm flat bar added to it. What I wanted here was to have the winch mounted 25mm lower than the usual universal mount plates that people often use which sit across the 2 chassis rails. I also needed a lower point to attach the underbody protection that is part of this excercise and the bottom of the RHS is ideal - as you'll see further down. The fairlead is mounted on a removable bracket because I have to be able to adjust it for the cutout in the alloy bumper. I welded on these tabs with nuts to fix the 3mm plate. While I had the front off I opened the LH chassis rail to insert a plate with 2 nuts for the LH recovery plate. I fed the 3rd nut in with a telescopic magnet I'll continue with the winch install tomorrow..

If you need to go to bigger injectors, most of the Nissan side feed models will fit i.e. they go into the TB45E fuel rail and the O-rings, although thicker, will seal in the TB45E cups. One difference I've noticed is that the bigger injectors have a 3mm plastic border (as shown in the pic here) that doesn't fit inside the TB45E cup so the metal cap can be overtightened if you're not careful. The solution I used was to fit 5mm nuts in the space - 2nd pic 370cc injector from a RB25DET Skyline on the left. Standard TB45E injector on the right. I found 6 of these 370cc injectors on Gumtree for $30 including the Skyline fuel rail. As the local auto elec wanted $35 each to clean them, I set them up in the original fuel rail and ran pressurised kerosene through them. Spray pattern was good on each of them. I've since removed them so I can first test if the original injectors really need to be replaced with the low boost.

If you need to go to bigger injectors, most of the Nissan side feed models will fit i.e. they go into the TB45E fule rail and the O-rings, although thicker, will seal in the TB45E cups. One difference I've noticed is that the bigger injectors have a 3mm plastic border (as shown in the pic here) that doesn't fit inside the TB45E cup so the metal cap can be overtightened if you're not careful. The solution I used was to fit 5mm nuts in the space - 2nd pic 370cc injector from a RB25DET Skyline on the left. Standard TB45E injector on the right. I found 6 of these 370cc injectors on Gumtree for $30 including the Skyline fuel rail. As the local auto elec wanted $35 each to clean them, I set them up in the original fuel rail and ran pressurised kerosene through them. Spray pattern was good on each of them. I've since removed them so I can first test if the original injectors really need to be replaced with the low boost.

Some miscellaneous stuff.. A really good accessory to have is a wideband gauge that indicates your air/fuel ratios under different conditions. With a turbocharger added, this becomes indispensable, IMO. I chose the Innovate MTX-L. It also has a narrowband signal output that I'm using connected to the ECU in place of the factory sensor signal for closed loop operation. I mounted it here with my trans temp gauge: I welded a bung into the exhaust ~400mm before the cat - where the extractors form a single pipe. I'll use the same location for the turbo. One of my biggest concerns is detonation. There's no doubt that this has been the cause of most TB45E turbo issues with connecting rods. Sure, you can strip your engine and beef it all up with stronger components. It's all a question of how far you want to go with it power wise and how much money you want to throw at it. This is a thread about a low boost budget install so it's going to be using stock internals and we're going to do our best to keep that engine safe by other means.. Enter the visual knock detection device. These are sold on Ebay by a guy in Lithuania who makes them himself. They have good write-ups and my friend Jose in Panama confirms they work well with the TB45E factory knock sensor. They will show a green LED when all's good and progressive orange LEDs when knock begins then a bigger really bright red LED when knock occurs. I plan to use it as a visual aid i.e. have it more or less in line of sight so I can lift off when required. I paid $20 extra to get the 5v output signal with it so if it indicates regular knocking, I'll log it to see why and when it's happening and adjust the Xede accordingly. This is the size compared to my phone:

Here are some different pics of the turbo itself showing how I'm doing the oil feed line and how it connects behind the turbo. The oil feed can be taken from the block just under the 6th exhaust outlet. It's a 1/8 BSPT thread and the adapter for -4AN connector is easy to find. I bought all my fittings and braided hoses from Ebay. Good quality and way less than the Aeroflow/Speedflow etc prices here. Also using a Kinugawa wastgate actuator. They have adjustable length, replaceable membrane and a choice of different springs to set base boost level. I made the actuator support bracket with a shock absorber washer and some flat bar welded to part of the original support. As mentioned, I'm starting with 0.3 bar. If I want to go slightly higher later, I'll probably do it with a boost controller. The water inlet feed can also be taken from the block. There's a 1/4 BSPT plug in the block for emptying coolant. I'm planning to 'T' into the heater return for the return flow.

As mentioned, I chose the low mount to ensure there'd be enough room for the larger IC. I'm thinking it should also result in less engine bay temps down there but I decided to make a heatshield for it anyway. Radiant heat could be significant when it needs to pull hard. A stainless steel 'mini sheet' from Bunnings is just the right length. Cost $48. It cuts easily with a hand nibbler and good tinsnips. I didn't want to weld it with the MIG so I just used a couple of 5mm stainless pop rivets on the corners. They're pretty strong - I had to put lengths of pipe on my pop rivet pliers to be able to snap the stalks. I first welded some additional tabs onto the manifold for the heatshield. I had the manifold made in Tassie. $400 delivered. I doubt I could make it for that money.. and I could never weld that well anyway! Heatshield pics and how it fits on the manifold: I had some offcuts so I made up this piece that fits between the compressor housing and the manifold. Not sure it will really do anything so no comments, please, on that one You can see where it fits in the above manifold pic.