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Upgrading from a GQ


skid

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I'm looking at upgrading my GQ Petrol TB42S to a GU in the future, My budget wont permit upgrading to a 4.2, so will be limited to a 2.8 or a 3.0. I've heard and read pro's and con's for both, but more people and mechanic are recommending me getting a 3.0 as opposed to a 2.8, they say the 2.8 was around only for 4 years before the 3.0 which has been around for over 12 years now, the biggest concern with the 3.0 is the "grenade" title it has due to it blowing up and or melting pistons 3 and 4. From what I've been reading etc, blocking off the EGR is number one job and installing a catch can is number two job, some people and forums are saying installing dawes valves etc, but the mechanics I have spoken to have said thats over kill as it only takes control of the turbo away from the computer, they are saying just blocking the EGR and installing a catch can is enough.
 
I also want to find out is the "grenading" of the 3.0 specific to Auto's or manual's or both? Every second GU I see driving around have the 3.0 badge on the back . so there are plenty driving around, I know the reason there is so much info about the "grenading" of these is due to people complain about things when something goes wrong as opposed to if everything is running fine they have nothing to complain about.
 
Any info or advice I can get from fellow club members would be greatly appriecated, including how many member actually have a 3.0 and what if any dramas they have had with it.
 
Another thing concerning me about going for a 3.0 is its fly by wire as opposed to the 2.8 or 4.2.
 
My best mate and I are planning a trip in a few years time to the Cape, so I will be wanting a GU that will get me up there and back with the least dramas if any.
 
Thanks in advance
Edited by skid
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G'day mate. Short answer is keep GQ if it is 4.2 L donk. It will be still going long after grenade has been retired.

Personally as an upgrade it is probably comparable "to from under the rain to under the leaking gutter drain".

Early GUs with 2.8 L and 3.0 L engines are not worth upgrading afaik they're downgrade from GQ.

Properly set up GQ will out do GU everywhere except or unless you are 6'8". Even than space is only marginally bigger.

Moe importantly it will be more reliable, cheaper to run and much easier to fix in the bush.

The ignorance of the mechanics in regards to ZD30 turbo control being left at the mercy of the ECU is just astounding.

It just shows that they have no clue. I'm embarrased to be one of them by association only....

Taking the control away will save the engine, make it more responsive, improves fuel consumption and finally gives more torque where it is needed low to midrange RPMs.

ZD30s blow up no matter what transmission they're connected to. For more decent driving experience the auto is the go but in typical Nissan POS design you'll need to mod converter lock control and shift control. Easily done and cheap too.

With manual box it is utter pig in the sand to drive, forget city driving unless you wanna feel like a truckie.

So if it the reliability you are after than keep the GQ.

Regards

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I've updated my post my GQ is a TB42S Carby with auto transmission, From what I've been reading going to a 2.8

 I'll near double my fuel ecconomy and to better again if I get a 3.0 GU, a 4.2 just isnt a possibility unless I win the loto as my budget is around the 15K mark.

 

Regards
 

Edited by skid
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OK, that's a different story, LOL, carby petrol guzzler...., In that case diesel is definitely an upgrade but stay away from 2.8 L for sure, they're the money pit as far as maintenance is concerned and require great attention to detail which most "modern" mechanics miss these days.

 

Issue with ZD30 is that if you are paying someone else to look after it, it will be very expensive. On top of it they probably wouldn't have a clue how to stop/postpone the grenading judging by your previous post.

 

As the mileage goes up the "failure territory" increases exponentially. I'm not sure buying bog stock  ZD30 with 250,000 km on the clock for 15 grand is a good buy. Make sure you have spare 10 grand for new engine on top of it because it isn't going to be if but when it goes bang.

 

I hate to say it but it is unwise move especially because it is like a lottery. If you are unable to do all the mods and maintenance yourself than than you gonna get fleeced while still not guaranteeing the car being anymore reliable.

 

Key is to get ZD30 in low kays,  do the mods to preserve it and it will last hopefully.

 

Anyway here is what you need for sure in order:

 

1. Boost and EGT gauges

2. Catch can

3. Dawes and needle valve

4. EGR block

5. Glow plugs timer

6. Fuel lift pump and spill line return (to save injection pump)

7. Exhaust

8. Intercooler replacement (OEM leak like a sieve)

8. If automatic transmission: line pressure solenoid resistor and lock up clutch mod.

 

There are "regular" fails as well, do search

 

In all honesty I'd "upgrade" to GQ with 4.2 L donk. They can be obtained for as low as 8K-9K.

 

Remember with 3.0 L (ZD30) you are buying built-in failure, with 2.8 L (RD28) you are buying maintenance nightmares.

 

I'd rather buy last  chassis based Pajero with 2.8 L turbo diesel donk.

 

Regards

Edited by Rumcajs
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OK, that's a different story, LOL, carby petrol guzzler...., In that case diesel is definitely an upgrade but stay away from 2.8 L for sure, they're the money pit as far as maintenance is concerned and require great attention to detail which most "modern" mechanics miss these days.

 

Issue with ZD30 is that if you are paying someone else to look after it, it will be very expensive. On top of it they probably wouldn't have a clue how to stop/postpone the grenading judging by your previous post.

 

As the mileage goes up the "failure territory" increases exponentially. I'm not sure buying bog stock  ZD30 with 250,000 km on the clock for 15 grand is a good buy. Make sure you have spare 10 grand for new engine on top of it because it isn't going to be if but when it goes bang.

 

I hate to say it but it is unwise move especially because it is like a lottery. If you are unable to do all the mods and maintenance yourself than than you gonna get fleeced while still not guaranteeing the car being anymore reliable.

 

Key is to get ZD30 in low kays,  do the mods to preserve it and it will last hopefully.

 

Anyway here is what you need for sure in order:

 

1. Boost and EGT gauges

2. Catch can

3. Dawes and needle valve

4. EGR block

5. Glow plugs timer

6. Fuel lift pump and spill line return (to save injection pump)

7. Exhaust

8. Intercooler replacement (OEM leak like a sieve)

8. If automatic transmission: line pressure solenoid resistor and lock up clutch mod.

 

There are "regular" fails as well, do search

 

In all honesty I'd "upgrade" to GQ with 4.2 L donk. They can be obtained for as low as 8K-9K.

 

Remember with 3.0 L (ZD30) you are buying built-in failure, with 2.8 L (RD28) you are buying maintenance nightmares.

 

I'd rather buy last  chassis based Pajero with 2.8 L turbo diesel donk.

 

Regards

 

That would be great but I'm limited to driving and Auto for medical reasons..
 
Plus I've read the fuel ecconomy is no where near as good as the 3.0

 

Your list of mods have a few that I have not read about before

The Glow plugs timer

6. Fuel lift pump and spill line return (to save injection pump)

8. Intercooler replacement (OEM leak like a sieve)

8. If automatic transmission: line pressure solenoid resistor and lock up clutch mod.

 

 

 

 

I will be doing the servicing myself, same as have done with my GQ the only time a mechanic has been involved with it was when the torque converter went..

Edited by Rumcajs
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I've updated my post my GQ is a TB42S Carby with auto transmission, From what I've been reading going to a 2.8

 I'll near double my fuel ecconomy and to better again if I get a 3.0 GU, a 4.2 just isnt a possibility unless I win the loto as my budget is around the 15K mark.

 

Regards

 

Does any one know where I can get the Nissan Patrol NADS mod done in or around the Brisbane or Ipswich area?

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Does any one know where I can get the Nissan Patrol NADS mod done in or around the Brisbane or Ipswich area?

 

Here we go, the best thing you can do is to do it yourself, it is not that hard.

 

Maybe try this mob ==> Caboolture Exhaust and Mechanical.

 

 

I suggest that you also sign up on patrol4x4.com (I think you are there already) and nissanpatrol.com.au

 

You'll get more help there.

 

Regards

Edited by Rumcajs
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I've updated my post my GQ is a TB42S Carby with auto transmission, From what I've been reading going to a 2.8

 I'll near double my fuel ecconomy and to better again if I get a 3.0 GU, a 4.2 just isnt a possibility unless I win the loto as my budget is around the 15K mark.

 

Regards

 

Thank you for all the feed back, although some have still tried pushing me towards a 4.2, saying they have the same or slightly better fuel ecconomy than the 3.0. I'm pretty much sold on the 3.0's, thinking about when I eventually do my cape trip, there are a hell of a lot more 3.0's around than there are 2.8's so parts in the middle of no where would be more so available than that of a 2.8. from what I've been reading even though some are still pushing me towards a 4.2 is there any reality to the fuel ecconomy being as good or better than a 3.0?

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OK, pre 2007 ZD30 or Di as it called (not sure why as it stands for direct injection and common rail is the same) will drink around 12.5 L per 100 km. Some have with a lot of tinkering managed to get it as low as 10.5 L. The best I have ever achieved was 11.2 L

CrDs (common rail) are "hit and miss" affair some will sit on 11.5 L most at 14.0 and worse at 17-18 L

GQ 4.2 L NA (naturally aspirated or non turbo) will drink around 10.5 l and it will run forever! It will be a slug but still I'm not in the hurry.

GU's 4.2 L turbo will drink around 14.5 L

All these figures quoted are for running normal urban/highway cycle, nothing has been taken in to account for off road use. Indeed my Simpson desert crossing took on average 18.5 L and I have recorded a 30 km trip in deep sand where it drank nearly 30 L so that 1 l per kilometer, that's road train territory LOL.

Regards

Edited by Rumcajs
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G day skid.

First up, why are you wanting to upgrade?

If you say fuel efficiency sell the patrol and buy a prius..

Sure your carby 4.2 drinks the fuel, but outline $10,000 buys a lot of petrol... (just going on your $15g budget assuming you get $5g for the gq)

Now if you want comfort..... Well....

The gq and gu run the same chassis and suspension, the gu have a 50mm wider track, but that's it..

The gu weighs nearly 400kg heavier than the gq's so many think this is the reason for the smoother ride.

If your going for power.. Well again a few options..

And efi setup or even efi turbo setup will land you nice to extreme figure for your $10g, but you'll have a much more reliable vehicle than any bloody 3ltr...

Or again, for $10g you can get a turn key td42 conversion done..

I'd really think about buying a gu, your budget doesn't get you into a safe zone vehicle..

Ultimately it's your choice, and you seem to do your homework.

Good luck with which ever way you go

Edited by BigGQWesty
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G day skid.

First up, why are you wanting to upgrade?

If you say fuel efficiency sell the patrol and buy a prius..

Sure your carby 4.2 drinks the fuel, but outline $10,000 buys a lot of petrol... (just going on your $15g budget assuming you get $5g for the gq)

Now if you want comfort..... Well....

The gq and gu run the same chassis and suspension, the gu have a 50mm wider track, but that's it..

The gu weighs nearly 400kg heavier than the gq's so many think this is the reason for the smoother ride.

If your going for power.. Well again a few options..

And efi setup or even efi turbo setup will land you nice to extreme figure for your $10g, but you'll have a much more reliable vehicle than any bloody 3ltr...

Or again, for $10g you can get a turn key td42 conversion done..

I'd really think about buying a gu, your budget doesn't get you into a safe zone vehicle..

Ultimately it's your choice, and you seem to do your homework.

Good luck with which ever way you go

My current GQ is going to need some $$$$ spent on it within the next couple of years. Plus the Auto is playing up.

 

Due to medical reasons I need an Auto but could drive a manual if I REALLY had to, Other creature comforts such as electric windows would be of benefit for my deteriorating medical condition, Fuel economy ids a big thing also, The thought of getting anything under 20/100 K is very appealing. I've looked up today a couple of GU 4.2 diesels but again coming back to my medical condition, the need of an auto transmission is very high... thanks for your input and advice/suggestions, I'm taking everything on board, so when I do have the 15K in my hand I can make an overly educated decision no matter which way I go...

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I will be doing the servicing myself, same as have done with my GQ the only time a mechanic has been involved with it was when the torque converter went..

 

Where would I get The Glow plugs timer?

 

6. Fuel lift pump and spill line return (to save injection pump)?

 

8. If automatic transmission: line pressure solenoid resistor and lock up clutch mod. Is this like the torque converter lock up switch I currently have in my GQ?

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Normally I'd say get one from Jaycar (Kemo 113) but in reality I'd just install momentary push button switch to break ground to the relay so the mad ECU glow time can be interrupted/operated by yourself if you can remember to do so when its a bit colder. Hold the switch for 5-7 secs and presto engine fires up no worries. Only needed when temperature is bellow 15° C that way you save the engine head and glow plugs.

 

If you want to have it fully automated than just get the timer to do the countdown. Problem is Kemo has changed its original design so the original circuit I used doesn't work anymore, it needs a slight mod.

 

See this thread ==>

 

Regards

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Mate Id stick with the GQ if you can. I didnt and I kick my arse everyday for selling mine,The Grenade isnt a bad unit but it takes a while to get them right, You can spend a lot of time tinkering with the grenade and still have it shit itself ,If i had m GQ back id look at a conversion to a cummins diesel or an LS1 convert they reckon theyre the ducks.Dont know if the convert is doable in the GQ or not but by all reports the LS1 goes in the GU very well.

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Yea and 8 goes in the gq but if fuel efficiency is a key thing the your better off with the tb42...

The Cummins engine is a anchor, so although you get a nice power increase your weight goes threw the roof..

Imo if your set on deisel pit the 10g into the turn key conversion and walk away a happy man with a unbreakable unit..

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

4.8 L is top of the line Patrol in Y61 series, has much better brakes, 5 speed auto and usually only in Ti trim.

However it will drink between 18-22L/100 on the black top so I'd hate to think what it drinks in deep sand...

Good for Gulf states where petrol costs 0.19 US but in Oz ...

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4.8 L is top of the line Patrol in Y61 series, has much better brakes, 5 speed auto and usually only in Ti trim.

However it will drink between 18-22L/100 on the black top so I'd hate to think what it drinks in deep sand...

Good for Gulf states where petrol costs 0.19 US but in Oz ...

Surely cant be as bad as my 89 GQ carbie, auto.....

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