skid

That's to centre the filter I suppose, mine looks different but it has something similar to the lower section without that tube extending upwards, perhaps earlier design. Also the lower lip is to act as a barrier should the water get inside the filter box hence the drain hole outside of it.
Many people mistakenly block it and then face the consequences, although jury is still out in regards to it. 
Regards

I will hunt around for some photos of what I did with mine. I have a bash plate fitted to the Iron Maidens underbelly to offer a bit of protection. With this plate on, the standard Nissan recovery hook didn't fit, so I had 2 new recovery points made up by one of the Forum members of the South African Patrol Forum. The drivers side fits no problem as there is thread for the 3 bolts to fasten up against. The passenger side is a slightly different problem as there are three hols but no thread. To get the recovery hook to work there you need rivnuts to fit this recovery point. BUT ...... this recovery point is NOT for doing the recovery, but to fix the lanyard to. Don't get me wrong, its very strong, but my brain says it isn't as strong as the drivers side one. I believe for a straight recovery it will be fine but if at an angle, I am not as confident. I also don't believe in welding it to the chassis either as this opens up a whole new can of worms.
Have a read on the South African site. It is quite a long read on various recovery points, but you will see exactly what it looks like and how its fitted. Mine have done a few recoveries and are still as strong as a 4.2 turbo diesel Patrol....hahaha..... Read from page 8 for how to fit them ( there are some replies in Afrikaans, one of the other South African official languages, but the English posts will tell you all the info needed )
http://www.patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3240&hilit=rivnuts&start=40#p38089
 
hahahaha.... we may be on the other side of the world..... but we are quite sharp.....hahaha

Actually going bigger tyres makes it even  worse.
Regards

New 2015 Nissan Patrol (2100km on the clock), loves a drink of fuel. 15.72ltr/100km  nothing like what they say when you buying it 10 to 12ltr per 100km.
Its a manual to which should be good better than the auto. The wife drives it all week and she not heavy footed maybe I should of got the Toyota Prado hmm iam not happy chappie.
Hope it improves with age or its out the door cause at this rate it will be to expensive to run. 
Time will tell.
paul

Well, join the crowd.
This is becoming standard fare from Y61. CrD ZD30 seems to dring like it is a  LC200 V8 and yours is not the only one.
No one seems to pinpoint the reason but I can tell you right now Nissan $tealer will blame it all on you, if you fit bullbar, if you fit roof rack, if you fit seat covers .....you name it.
I'm going to be honest and tell you I wouldn't purchase 2015 Nissan Patrol Y61 with ZD30 engine today even if it was at half price sale.
Nissan have absolutely fcuked up this model for good. Engine drinks fuel like mad,(consider that some examples will take it to 17-19 L/100 category) the electronics to aid with stability control completely destroyed the aftermarket suspension fitment/mods and the famous Ni$$an warranty is something to behold.
I'm very much doubtful that the fuel eco will improve much, at best you'll be glad when it comes down to 13-14 L. It is insane that such modern fuel injection can't match the old crappy injection pump output .. I just managed to break under 11 L/100 on mine first time ever and that's with all the extras and M/T tyres and 3t constant weight.
 
Regards

Actually me thinks you are quite correct.... apologies

G'day,
I don't know what it is like in GQ but on GU the adjuster for the brake shoes can be turned both ways, there is not so called auto adjuster which would normally be a part of hydraulicly actuated drum brake where movement would transfer on to a ratchet one way expander which still can be retracted.
See pic attached:

 

Hmmmmm.... its been a long while since I last fiddled with the hand break drum, but if I recall correctly there is a piece of spring steel that slides on the serrated nut that you are moving with the screwdriver. It basically allows one directional adjustment, which will tighten up the braking mechanism making it grab the brake drum sooner. I cant recall the exact positioning of that spring steel, if it is on top or bottom, but if you take a thin, but ridged piece of wire and jiggle it around it there till you feel like you are lifting something springy ( or peer in the hole with a torch may help locate it ), then try lift it up first then hold it up and rotate the serrated wheel with the screwdriver. The screwdriver may slip easier rotating it the in the "loosening" direction due to the design of the serrations on the nut.
I wouldn't drive it around with it so tight, the heat generated can cause all sorts of issues with the rubber seals and boiling brake fluid !!

G'day mate,
Best bet is Sydney based "Western Filters" they sell genuine Provent 200 catch cans. Here is the link to their Patrol kit --> Nissan Patrol provent catch can kit

and the general page ==> Provents kits
pricey but less hassle to chase everything yourself when only getting the catch can.....and last thing you want is some home made attempt which may or may not work. I fully recommend the unit I have one and everyone else with Patrols I know has.
There is this unscrupulous mob which sells Chinese knock offs via various 4WD forums for slightly less but bear in mind they're getting those from Chinese supplier for $15-20 each while they increase the price to you ten folds and you are still getting a fake. I'm not mentioning the joint but they also stir the pot in performance chips and tuning with wild promises,they steal ideas from others too like reselling Darren Dawes boost controllers as their own or claim inventions as their own.
Regards

GU doesn't use relays for low or high beams, the stalk switch activates them directly and gets fed by two 15 A fuses. I have no idea how your spot lamps are wired up but if its the usual DIY job then the power is taken straight from the high beam circuit which could mean too much load so only one head lamp lights up  that is why if you do it slowly it works I'm guessing here.
 Do the lights work correctly if you disconnect that switch with head lamp symbol on it (is it Nissan or aftermarket) or disable spotties?
Normally spot lamps would be controlled via separate relay which then supplies power via separate fuse and is controlled from high beam signal with in series connected spot lamp switch. So no high beams no spotties, high beams on but spot lamps switch off (relay not activated) no spot lamps illuminated, you get the idea. It could be controlled another way but lets not complicate the issue.
Regards
Here is an example what it should be wired like:

I followed your guide on the other forum a while ago Ray and did this mod on my 2001 GU2. Everything lines up and works sweet. Nissan in Adelaide did have to order them their Melbourne warehouse overnight.

No more turning the fan on after belting down a dirt road and getting covered in dust!

Brilliant!

Yeah, the std scoops are rubbish. I got the hell in one morning a few years back and got a scoop extender bent up from some scrap steel plate and then I cut a hole into the standard scoop and bolted the new steel on on top. This basically doubles the area for air to flow in, and is higher so hopefully getting better airflow onto the IC. 
One thing I had to be careful of was going too high and as a result obstructing my view over the bonnet.
What I can tell you though is it DID make a difference of about 20 deg C to my EGT's. 
I can't find any pics here on my work PC that show the scoop other than these taken when we were traveling in the snow up high in the hills.

It has been done, few years ago we had a big discussion about the exactly same thing on another Nisan forum. Couple of blokes actually did cover their bonnets with streamers or strands of wool and recorded the videos of the action, some with confirmed results some with other surprises. Basically you would need a wind tunnel for proper testing but the string theory ....pun intended, worked well and confirmed the bull bar and bonnet protector do make things worse.
Intercooler fan can make some difference but only at lower speeds and needs to be underneath the cooler. I had the fan on mine and TBH I couldn't tell the difference. When it started playing up I removed it, not worth the hassle IMHO.
Regards
 

Did you know that bonnet protector interferes with the air flow to the intercooler scoop?
Patrol bonnet scoop is so poorly designed that air will flow in at around 80 km/h + only. However the biggest obstruction/interference is the bull bar.
But it looks good.
Regards
 
 

wonder installing a larger thermo fan on top of it would help>?

Put new panic handles in, the drivers side didn't have one, so got a pair from the wreckers and replaced the sagging passenger one and added one for the drivers side. Also picked up a bonnet protector and installed it as the screws were already there...

Just tested those lights down our drive way very impressed.
Can see easily threw window tint to the mirror, hope the neighbours  don't get pissed off if some light heads there way.
paul

Hello,
There are 4 different version of indicator/flasher circuits depending where you live (typical Nissan). I reckon you have earth/ground issue.
Bellow is the description for Australia :
 

You can certainly try and see what will happen, I'm at a loss to explain why would that cornering lamp unit even affect the indicators because to me it should only be processing the signals for cornering lamps outputs not actually affecting the indicators buit that's the design those monkeys have chosen. Remember these cans are negatively switched so I'd still make sure you have a good ground. Patrols are notorius for earthing issues thanks the Nissan idiot saving money by not including extra earth strap between the body and the chassis.
Regards

Installed Braintech power board in rear, replaced one of the cig outlets with dual USB.
 
       

Patrol OEM filter housing uses little float which connects to ground when lifted up by water inside the housing as it is more dense than fuel.

Or just unplug the connector and bridge the terminals inside, the light should come on.
Cheers

Who needs a manual , just ask Rumcajs >)

Sorry bud, they didn't really stuffed up, they just left it as on ZD30 where filter warning is connected to MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light aka engine check lamp). Because yours is ex ZD30 model you dashboard doesn't have filter light decal but MIL  decal instead. If yours was OEM TD42 it wouldn't have MIL decal but filter light. Its all in the decals as pinouts on both displays are the same.  As a matter of curiosity on TB45 (petrol models) it is immobilizer light.

Abbreviations:
EG ==> ECM (e.g ZD30) models MIL/Check Engine
TD ==> TD42 fuel filter
SN ==> TB45 immobilizer
 
Regards

I do have ones but they obviously bolt on from underneath of the chassis where OEM Nissan tie down hook is there are prepared holes on the others side with welded nuts as well on mine.

There are none on the side of the chassis on RHS unfortunately.
However I see no point having side mounted plates, I use load equalizer strap too so I don't yank off just one hook.
Cheers

I knew you gona ask that! Anyway see bellow: