TaffWest

Thanks Rumcajs, have borrowed my mates gearbox jack and i am sure there will be moments i wish i hadnt started the job as always. Took the gearbox plus transfer out of my old NE Pajero and had a few "why the hell did i do this" moments. So there in the post so to speak. Anyway Mate thanks once again for all your helpfull advice and info over the last year. Take Care and have a good one. TaffWest

Hi Guys, Thinking of replacing the DMF with SMF over the Christmas break. Have had a quick look at the access to the gearbox bellhousing to engine bolts. All the lower ones and the ones for the starter motor are easy to get at but the top 2 are hard to touch never mind get a socket on them. Just wondered if you remove the gear box cross member and lower the gearbox therefore letting the engine tilt backwards is there enough room to get at the top 2 bellhousing bolts withg a socket, wobbly and extension. Anyone. Happy Christmas to ALL. Cheers TaffWest

Thanks Rumcajs, The "Owner Notification Letter" defect paragraph did not have as much tech info. Guess what? My local Nissan dealer has run out of replacements. Take Care TaffWest

Anyone received one of these safety recalls in the post in the last couple of days? I have a 2008 CRD (ZD30). Appears to be accelerator sending incorrect signal to ECM and resulting in vehicle going into "Failsafe mode" Limp? I have hade the vehicle a couple of years now and never experienced the problem. I think the pedal mechanism drives/turns a type of Potentiometer that sends a variable signal/electrical charge to the ECM. Anyone know anything about this? All The Best TaffWest

Thanks Guys

The Flywheel on my 2008 CRD seems to be groaning at certain RPM under load (vibration-noise). Everything has to get pretty hot before the issue becomes obvious. I will have to change the flywheel and the clutch at some time in the future and i wondered if anyone had fitted a single (solid) mass flywheel instead of the standard dual mass flywheel. I believe there are some trade offs. Do the benefits outway the negatives? Would anyone recomend fitting the solid flywheel? Cheers TaffWest

Thanks Rumcajs, I do remember you mentioning the 'Scangauge' in an answer to a previous query of mine. I must be a slow learner, sorry mate. Will use the link provided, many thanks.

Have read the GU reference doc on this topic and it refers to Bridgeing terminals 1 and 8 on the 16 pin diagnosis connector to access codes and clear said codes (Turning of Engine warning Liight). After trying this procedure without success i had a closer look at the diagnosis connector on my 2008 CRD and i could only see wires connected to pins 4 thru 8 on the specified row (1 ,2 and 3 not connected) I identified the right row to be the row closest to the large or tapered side of the connector as suggested in the diagram shown in the reference doc. Has anyone any experience with this as i would like to clear 'Check Engine Warning Light'. The warning light has started coming on after EGR block and i would expect the warning code to reflect that. Thanks in advance

Thanks for the welcome guys. Has been good value, Its great to know that theres somewhere to get answers.

Have fitted Auber Instruments EGT kit with probe about 60mm down stream of Turbo. Am amazed how sensitive the Digital guage is and how quickly the exhaust gas temps change. Seem to reach the 500 deg C mark when pushing past the 2700 rpm (120 to 130 km's per hour) overtaking on Great Northern highway (110 limit) and when accelerating up a hill (4th gear). While i feel confident in being able to keep egt temps below 520 deg C with just me in the vehicle. I think it would take a lot of concentration to do so if the vehicle was loaded up or/and towing a loaded trailor or caravan. I have blocked the EGR but it looks like the less restrictive larger exhaust and bigger intercooler reduce average EGT temps quite considerably. Thanks guys (Will have to drive like a NANNA when towing)

Carton i reckon, I keep him sweet with the odd sheetmetal or welding job. Thought it was cactus for sure.

Took the key reader into work and one of our electronics guys found a break in the coil. He soldererd the joint. I had a job to see the wire which is enamel coated. He scraped the emamel back on the egdes and put a small piece in and soldered it under a bench magnifier. Told me to fill coil with a neutral cure silocone to stop any vibration. Fitted it tonight and all good. Priced one from Nissan at over $300. Nice to get a win now and then. All the Best

Thanks again for your quick informative reply. Have removed the 'Key Reader' and will try and get a replacement from Nissan.

After removing steering column covers numerous times to access wiring for added guages etc i think i may have stuffed the Key reader. My screw driver slipped into key reader coil that surrounds the ignition when trying to pry out the metal ring around the ignition switch. Any way the vehicle will not start. Turns over fine but no ignition. As far as i know the key reader imobilises the ignition system somehow and has to send a signal to ECM once it is happy wth the key used to start the car. Any one know how to test the key reader itself? Tested wiring to key reader 12 volts in brown wire (igntion off) Earth continuity black wire OK (ignition off). As per manual for vehicles after 2007. Any one how to by pass key reader or if you can? The imobiliser warning light on top of dash flashes as per normal. When turning engine over light stays illuminated without flashing not sure if it should be off then or what. Can anyone help?

OK this what i think is happening! I have also fully blocked EGR but have not yet used the engine fast warm switch as WA summer temps mean the engine warms up pretty quick anyway. (No ckeck engine warnings) My opinion is when you use fast warm up switch, the ECU increases idle speed but i also think it calls for a lot of EGR. What quicker way to heat up a cold engine than to redirect hot exhaust gases into the combustion process. The fact that it automatically turns itself off when you engage a gear means this large demand for EGR is only used during fast warm up. The fact that the EGR is blocked means the ECU would trigger a 'Check Engine' warning light as there would be no EGR available. EGR is called for at other times in the combustion cycle but not it seems as much. Thoughts anyone

Have recently fully blocked EGR on my 2008 CRD after using EGR block plate with 9mm hole. I drive the Patrol every week day (52 k's to work and 52 k's home with deviations) havn't seen a ' Check engine' warning light yet. In fact my boost guage hasn't been over 15-16 psi since full block. First test drive after full block i saw the boost jump to 20 psi for the first time. Turned down VNT stop 1/3 of a turn and havn't seen a 20 psi since. Back to 16 psi max. (no towing). Will check egt's when probe arrives. Have already done the mech/fab/weld to take probe. Have cleaned MAF and MAP cleaned intercooler (internally) Provent 200 fitted, no exhaust mods. How soon after block did you see 'Check Engine Light' and do you have any exhaust mods. Did you isolate battery when blocking EGR. Every time i alter a peformance parameter i always disconect battery for at least an hour. According to 'Newbies start here' reference document. There it recomends at least '20 minutes' battery isolation. (Reset ECU)? Any Thoughts

Thanks for your insightful and informative advice. At the moment the cat does not appear to be causing more than its designed restriction on exhaust flow. Fitting an aftermarket exhaust goes on the list. As a footnote to removing the first section of the exhaust (post Turbo). By removing the VNT vacuum actuator and the bracket that holds the actuator in situ (bolted to turbo) the heat shield can be readily removed and replaced. (CRD 2008). Thanks once again. Great reply.

Has anyone knocked out the cat that sits in the first section of the original exhaust? or would you?( CrD 2008 ) Are there any benefits to exhaust flow if you did? The cat is there to burn any unburnt fuel etc but i think it would offer some resitance to the exhaust flow. When i removed the first section (to weld in a 1/4 BSP socket EGT) it dawned on me that you could knock out the cat and possibly improve exhaust flow. Is it worth it or not? If all the after market large bore exhausts are fitted with a cat then i am obligated to leave it be. Would be nice to hear your thoughts Cheers

By fixing through and therefore restricting the 2 flanges of the intercooler you dont allow for the natural expansion of the intercooler body. The stresses have to go somewhere and inevitably they will find the weakest parts of the assemly to crack. There is a tube frame that supports the intercooler and the cover. This may be a somwhere to fix the fan to. You would have to make some custom brackets but the intercooler would be free of any restrictive stresses when expanding. Ray thanks for the photos on the egt install its my next job.

Will be installing EGT guage kit (Auberins) when it arrives from the States. {GU - CRD - 2008} From the previous comments it appears that ideally you would not want to go above 450C. Would that be the general view? As you can see i am a newbie but just want to say i have learned a lot of usefull info since following some of the posts. Thanks.

Only went for a short drive, but the boost pressures were as you suggested averaging 10 psi to15 psi. Looked on the net for the OBD scanners, there is a few of them but the " Scanguage " you mentioned seems to be a very comprehensive diagnostic tool. The EGT guage is also an item for near future. All the Best

Thanks for the advice and info. From your last comment about the boost levels it would seem that the guage is working correctly as i have only just fitted the boost gauge. The 5psi i saw was when the car was static and was a "free" reving reading. Will drive the troll and let you know what readings i see under load. I have also fitted a ProVent 200 and Oil pressure guage (sender not mechanical tube) Will look at scanguage as my next aquisition. You will have to bear with me on the new technology as i am a bit of a dinosaur. I remember when everything could be repaired not replaced and most things could be adjusted with a screw driver or a spanner. Thanks once again

I have owned a 2008 CRD ZD30 Patrol for about 14 months and have been following your posts on NADS etc. Have partially blocked EGR with a home made blank (1.2mm Zinc anneal steel plate) with a 9mm hole to stop any code errors. The EGR on the 2008 troll has a cooler (Water/Coolant Jacket) pre egr valve I have put the blank between the flanges post cooler - pre egr valve. After doing the partial egr block i turned the vnt adjustment screw down about a third of a turn. At this stage no boost guage fitted and adjusted the vnt just in case i introduced higher boost pressures. Have fitted a Redline mechanical boost guage now.There is a cast alloy/aluminium tube splice/joiner that is approx half way between intercooler and inlet manifold (after intercooler) which has a 7 mm thick wall at the center where it is at its thickest. It is here that i drilled and tapped a 1/8th BSP hole and fitted a nipple to connect the boost guage tube. When starting the engine for the first time afer guage fitting i noticed the guage showed very little pressure only when reving up to 2500rpm did it rise to 5 psi. I have since readjusted the vnt to its original position and the boost guage still only reads 5psi at approx 2500 rpm. I meassured voltage from MAF and at idle and i got 1.75 to 1.8 volts which according to some of the posts on this subject appears in the normal (non block egr) range. So it would appear partial block on this crd has little or no effect on MAF voltage, I did not check MAF voltage proir to the partial block so i cannot say for definite there has been no affect on MAF voltage only that it seems to be in the expected idle range. Sprayed a soapy solution over Intercooler and boost pipe joints at first start up to see if there were any obvious pressure leaks, didnt spot any. I know that the ecu on post 2007/8 crd vehicles is supposed to have a lot more control over boost/fuel levels than previous models. Can anyone please tell me what boost pressures i shoud expect to see and at what rpm and should the engine be under load or not? Thanks in advance Cheers TaffWest