dronus4x4

Yep ypu will be suprised how much difference controlling the boost makes.

NADS info session for 2013 is go. 8am for an 830 start - Sunday 19 May 2013 in the carpark at Marion shopping centre carpark. Details here http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99750 I'll be there from 8 so come along, say g'day and see how people have fitted the nads mods. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Yep just make sure you use the straight barbs, not the right angle barbs. I've had a few right angle barbs block the needle valve inlet! Good to hear you got your boost sorted mate! Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Anyone that's interested in seeing what needs doing for these modifications can come along to an info session I'm organising. Details here http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/competitions-events-20/%5Bsa%5D-2013-adelaide-nads-info-session-99750/#post1084135

No worries, I'm glad it helped! Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Yep i agree, i keep mine below 450. I actually struggle to get it any higher anyway, with the boost control, EGR closed, bigger exhaust and intercooler im backing off the throttle a heap earlier.

Howdy, I have seen people use all kinds of needle valves but the only one that has consistently given consistant results are the Italian needle valves from dependable distributors. That's not to say there isn't others which are better, but so far I haven't seen one.

I have also just put in an ASE HPD intercooler. I must say the reduction in EGT, and power increase is impressive. These have an underslung 9" thermo fan. If anyone wants my old one, PM me - even has a custom fan and shroud, and all the pipes (including boost gauge spike)

My personal opinion is to do the exhaust but leave the chip out. Once you do the exhaust you will notice an improvement anyway and might not want the chip. IMHO chips are not the best things for these engines, some people flame me for that but putting more fuel into an engine without doing the other mods first isnt a good thing.

I cut a bit of rubber, put two holes in it and cable tied it to the +ve cable so it covers all the positive bits. Works a treat

Looks good mate. There is a guy on grand junction road at the port Adelaide end who does great deals on sealed batteries. 7 years is pretty good but yeah its time for it to go! Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I'm just picturing the cases valve and trying to think of the correct words to use to describe which bits need lengthening.. I remember the first time I did this I was turning the wrong bit.. If your gauge is reading a vacuum you either have it plumbed into the wrong place, or the gauge is faulty. Close (or remove) the needle valve and see what that does also. Does it chug ? Cheers Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Howdy john sorry for the late reply. Yes you are heading in the right direction. I might also suggest that the next time you have the spring out that you inspect the ball bearing and the seat in the Dawes. I've heard similar stories and people have found impurities in there. I'm Hoping that when you backed the vent off you didn't adjust the length of the rod, just the stop on top? Just going to read back over your post to sked if I missed anything else Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I just put Bosch plugs in. 100% improvement on the OEM which were probably stuffed. I have also fitted a timer so that they only glow for 30 seconds instead of the full 5 minute burn. This will significantly improve the lifespan of metal tipped plugs. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Are you referring to the boost gauge pipe? What I did was drill a hole slightly smaller than the thread on the barb, apply loktite glue, and screw it in! Hope this helps Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2