Well half the town done and it's not looking good. 10ltrs a week... And it's not guaranteed.. First in best dressed.

No one will bother listening to me. Mainly a company from west Vic has the big main ones bailed up. And no one will give me a shot at getting it out..

Owell, I guess that's this dream shot...

Are there any drums out the back of the places you can access?

They are usually 44's with removable lids although they are sometimes tanks.

I'd be looking for those and if you can find some where the places use oil and not Fat, Get a pump and off you go.

All that I visited today were accounted for and the chain places all use the large vat like KFC and don't want a bar of it.

Going to do the other half tomorrow. Hopefully I can get some of the hotels onside.

Ok I'm grabbing (hopefully) 60L of WVO tonight. I thought although it's not constant, it's an extra $100 in my pocket..

So I was thinking of using painters filters.. Not sure of the micron tainting but I'd assume it would be pretty fine. Maybe overkill..

But is that all you do Glort? Filter it, thin it and then in the car?

The oil is likley to have dissolved water in it.

95% of people don't worry about that. Of course I do.

That said, if you are going to put it in infrequently or for a test, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as there is no free water, You'll be fine.

Never heard of painters filters so I don't Know what Micron rating they are either. There is no such thing as overkill in veg oil filtering.

This is what I would do.

Just a hold of one of those green/ enviro/ reuseable shopping bags that every place has now for .99 cents. If it has a plastic bottom remove and chuck that. Suspent the bag open by the handles, you a suitably sized container under it and pour the oil from your tins into the bag.

These bags are great corse filters for removing the crunchy bits and fats etc. I would put it through a couple of times because if and when you get a coating of fat in the bag, they filter real well.

The first lot of 20 L or so should nearly fall through, after that it will slow down. A lot of veggers have multiple bags and fill them in the morning before they go to work and again in the evening. it can take 24 hours to go through when the bags get loaded but slow filtering is good filtering.

For a start off, what I would then do is get some of those $3 disposeable filters from supercheap or the like and do the final filtering through those.

If you can get hold of a 25L plastic drum that the restaurants get detergent, floor cleaner etc it, you can cut the top out of one of those to go under your shopping bag then put a fitting in the bung hole of the drum and connect your filter than into another ( washed and dried) plastic drum ready to go.

A better, Higher volume alternative is one of those ( generally Blue colour) house water filters. You can get the cartridges down to .5 micron but 5 and under is good. I use one of these as a final filter. Get the string wound types rather than the expanded foam type. They both come in the same ratings but the string seems to hold loads more dirt than the foam one for some reason. If foam is all you can get, that s fine, you just won't get as much though before it clags.

The other alternative is proper industrial filter bags. They are absolute rated and have the best dirt holding to cost ration IMHO. Some people actually wash them out when the clag up and then use them as pre filters. Messy damn things to deal with when they are dirty so I just chuck 'em,

They come with a handle like the shopping bags but I made a fitting out of a 6" PVC pipe end cap and clamp the bag to that. I put a hose fitting in the cap so I pump the oil through the bag in my drying/ filtering processor multiple times to make sure it's well cleaned.

I'll see if I can remember to go get some more filter bags next week and when I get them I'll PM you for your address and send you one.

Those or the water filters are the way to go but for a cheap start off, the disposables will be fine once you prefilter through a Shopping bag.

For a water check, the best one is called the Hot pan test. as self explanatory as it is, heat up a pan and put a drop of oil in it as an indicator. When the oil is smoking, put a small ( non critical) amount of oil in and watch and listen. If it crackles and spits, it's too wet for my liking. If you see some bubbles form and come to the top with no popping, you are good to go and its dry enough.

For this time of year, I'd also add 5% petrol to the amount of oil you are blending with to thin it out and keep the starting easy. Do this after you have done all your filtering.

Thanks for that Glort, but I can't catch a brake.. The oil was gone... Got nothing..

(But the burner has a start..)

Bummer!

Could you get engine oil or tranny fluid? that has been described elsewhere here and if it can run in a ZD, it will run in a 4.2 for sure.

If you can't get veg and want to save some $$, this would seem to be a possible option for you.

I have only tried it on a few occasions but tranny fluid worked well when I did use it and it's a lot thinner than used engine oil and I think a lot less messy to deal with. If you have a transmission place in town you could hit them up for some of what they are throwing out or ask some local mechanics to keep it aside for you.

You could just filter it the same as anything else and use it straight off. It blends readily with Dino and won't seperate and in summer you could use it on it's own quite easily.

The one major draw back with veg is what you have encountered. Getting hold of the stuff sometimes. Sometimes it's a matter of perseverance.

It took me ages to get my first 1000L stored up, once I got it though it seems I had 3000 before I knew and then shot through to 6000 before I put the brakes on. I offloaded a lot and then winter came and it got tough to find again and I realised you can never have too much put away!

My son got his P's this afternoon ( 105 points out of 106) So he's already stolen his mothers car tonight. He's got himself a nice little Subaru

but I can see already he's going to be taking one of the Diesels to save on fuel. As a consequence I expect to be going through a lot more oil from now on. Looks like I will be converting that 500L tank I got to a processor to keep up with demand.

If you want to do Veg, ( and I think tranny fluid or black diesel are valid options) don't write it off just yet. Go back to some of the places and say you are still interested in getting some oil and maybe leave a card with your name and number " In case anything changes".

I think if you go backl a 2nd or 3rd time, you'll find different results. and ask if you can have some of the oil if they say they have a collector getting it.

That's worked for me real well. Some is undefined, the goal is to get access in the first place.

I'm surprised there are not some drums around you can access after hours.

Just don't get put off though. This isn't about veg, it's about human behaviour.

Yesterday I scored a HUGE deal for my business. One of the biggest 3 places in the country. Initially when I rang, they told me they were perfectly happy with the competitor but I was " welcome to drop my stuff in for them to have a look at. " Well to cut a short story shorter, I did that and walked out 20 min later with the deal. It's worth a min of $80K to me over the next year and I think there is a good chance I can pull $100K out of the place in the next 12 months.

Had I not pushed a bit and asked some questions and been easily blown off, I would have got no where.

It's what you do after they say NO that's the important bit. And you have to realise that's a conditioned response to anything people don't understand or are surprised with.

The rule of sales is it takes 2-3 contacts to get people talking and asking questions. Once they do that, you're 75% of the way there.

Go back and hit the potentials, in person, again and see how you go. Even if you don't get anything this time, you will the next. I'll gaurantee though that 2nd time round You'll get people asking you questions and with a bit of a push asking if you could get " some" of the oil as " you are finding it hard to get because the collectors get it all and there is none left for anyone else" You'll get a lot more doors opening up.

Sometimes you just have to play the game to get what you want.

I did see the 'black' diesel mentioned in a thread.. And got me thinking.. If ships run on crude, why can't I. Haven't got reading about it yet but I'll ask Bogmaster about it.. Engine oil is nothing to find. I work in a timber mill.. The grabs and loaders I repair drop 30-40L every 2-3weeks.. I hit the machnic up yesterday arvo for 20L, he drop of 60 with no issue.. Lol

I wonder if black diesel will make my gq sound like this!!!!

And how well do poly spun filters work?

Something like this

5 x 5 Micron Poly Spun Sediment Water Filter Cartridges 10" x 2.5" (2-2GA)

http://bit.ly/PO7cqn

Edited August 4, 201213 yr by BigGQWesty

I heard a GQ a while back in the carpark at bunnings that sounded exactly like that.

Was freaking awesome.

The poly spun filters are the ones I was refering to as foam filters. Sorry for the poor description.

They work fine, they just don't work near as long as the string wound ones.

But at 1/5 the price... I'll order now..

that's a point.

When I have bought them before both types have been similarly ( over) priced.

If you pre filter your oil in a recycled carry bag as I described, You'll get the majority of the rubbish out anyway and it will only be the fine stuff left behind.

Considering you'd be so far in front even if you used one filter per tankful, I spose I'm just being a tightarse.

Yes was intending on using the shopping bag trick for the first filter.

Need to get some clean drums..

How many L does a poly filter usually last Glort?

I'm thinking of grabbing the 20' 5 micron for the final, shopping bag for primary. Is this enough or would you go a 30-40 micron filter in there?

How much you will get through a poly or any filter is really bit of a how long is a bit of string question. The variable are endless.

Suffice to say you should get a worthwhile amount, If you prefilter through the bags I reckon 500L wouldn't be a problem. The only real answer I could give you is you won't get as much as much with a poly filter as you will with a string wound. I have bot well over 2500 L through a string wound of well settled oil that had no pre filtering.

Going from the bag to a %um filter should be fine. I think intermediate filters are rather silly myself. Once the flow slows, how do you know which filter is blocked if you have 2 different sizes? Plus it's more likley to be the 5-15Um particles that actually block a 5Um filter, Not so much the larger bits that the oil can get round better.

I have only used 10" filters so if you have a 20" you should logically get more than double though it before you have to change it.

Ok. So a 10' 1 micron should be fine. So you don't think a 20-30 filter is needed?

On poly, I'd go for a 5UM filter. They will filter to 1 Um soon enough as they block up and anything under 10 UM will pass through the Vehicle's filters and the fuel system anyway

Well I bought the 1Mn filter before I went to bed but at $23 delivered for 5... If I use one every 100L I'm still in front.

Hopefully I'll get the resting barrel tonight. It's a 70L translucent so hopefully I can see the water, drain it then start the filtering process.

Any idea what oil water is good for? Not the burner like I was hoping?

Just for me to be clear, What oil are we talking about now? ( I'm easily confounded!)

Did you manage to get some veg or are you going with the Used engine oil?

For veg You will see a creamy, lighter thicker stuff in the bottom once the water and fats drop out like mayonnaise. The good oil will sit on the top and be darker and look shiny when you pump it out. And I think you are better to pump than drain because the wet layer doesn't come out nice and all together. Draining will tend to pull a hole in it a lot of the time and then the clear oil comes through with trace lines of the wet fats as they come in from the sides.

You could waste a lot of good oil by contaminating it in the draining process.

People who drain tend to use cone bottom tanks for this reason.

If you are just going to drain bulk of the slops off, then that should be OK. You can do it morning and night. Tilt the tank to the outlet side and just slowly take off a little till you see good oil and let it reset itself. You wont get much at a time ( hopefully) but you should get it regularly on most oils.

If you wanted to speed up the process real well, What you would do is get an old hot water tank, put a bit of pipe like off your burner right through the middle and seal it up and then stick the whole lot over a burner to warm the oil.

You could easy take it up to 100 Then let it sit. Warming and thinning the oil makes it much easier for the water to drop out and you'll get the bulk of it in one go.

If you insulated the top of the tank so the water wouldn't condense there, You could heat the oil up again with a wide open vent at the top and dry a lot of the rest of the oil off.

If you are using Veg, any slops you get can be dug into the garden or put on the compost pile. Don't put it on plants direct ( unless they are weeds) but it does break down well over time

For engine oil, Refer to bog. I believe the water should readily drop out when you heat the stuff.

As for what to do with it, take it to the recycle place or where ever you take used engine oil in your town for disposal.

I'd never say anything like dump it in an out of the way spot on the weeds or something like that because then I'd have all the environmentalists making a fuss so dispose of it in the approved, correct, no doubt pain in the arse way.

I'm taking about WMO Glort. The drum I have found has a nice basketball size curve in the base. So I was hoping I could slowly drain off the water from the lowest place. Hopefully a little each morning and night.

And then start filtering..

OK, I think the water should drop out pretty easy with wmo and will drain out a lot easier than I described than with the veg.

Might pay to paint half the drum black so you can put it facing the sun to warm the oil up a bit to help the water settle.

I'm a bit surprised you are getting water in WMO. Shouldn't be n the sump of the vehicle so maybe it's getting in through the tank its put into.

Perhaps you could get your supplier ( or guys at work) to drain it directly into your drums so you wouldn't have to worry about settling the water out?

Well I'm only guessing the water is there due to the crackle in the burner.. But tonight it is a clean burn and crackle..

So I will still let it settle to see if there is any water before I start.

Another question Glort. Would you thin the oil before filtering, or after?

I wouldn't thin it at all mate. It shouldn't need it.

Thinning is for when you want to put it through injector pumps and injectors, there is nothing in these things that would require it to be thinned.

I have been using mine where the oil is so cold and thick It takes minutes to pour it out the old kettle I use but it burns just fine.

The only thinning you would need is to heat it a bit, even just in the sun to help any water drop out.

Geez I hope we aren't boring the chit out of everyone else with all this!

It'a all good and well to say if you don't like it don't read it but when it's the same thing popping up all the time it can be annoying.

Not boring us at all. In fact I'm thinking of giving it a try in the gu2.8

I'm sure I will have some questions shortly.

Tipsy-tap