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Everything posted by Glort

  1. I have threatened before to mow the inconsiderate fkers down if they got in my way and I finally did. Not quite as I thought though. I was going to a job in the inner city last Thursday. Going through the peak hour Crawl In Marrickville, I just started moving off when this lycra tosser ( yes, he really was wearing Fluro Green and black Lycra) came up the side of me and straight in front. I was in the nearside lane and the traffic in the centre lane was stationary with a bus in front of me in the other lane. I think the deceased to be couldn't get a gap between the lanes big enough with the bus so just chopped in front of me almost at a 90o angle. By the time I saw him chop and hit the brakes, I already hit the clown. lucky for him it knocked him sprawling on his side but I didn't go over either him or the bike. Before I could even get out, he picked himself up and cut back in the traffic and was gone. He didn't even say anything and barely looked at me. Much to the opposite of my exclamations and verbals. I did see he was bleeding from the elbow where he grazed himself on the road and ripped his ballet outfit, but other than still having everything attached, I don't know what else happened to him. I got the door open but didn't even get out as he picked himself up and then was going, I thought to the side of the road where we would sort the accident out but he pissed off twice as fast as he appeared. My surprise and shock soon turned to anger though as clearly the dumb fk knew he was in the wrong and didn't want to face the music. A lot of other people would have freaked at that and been panicked by it through this clowns selfishness if they tagged him. I wondered what to do, if I should report it to the cops. I thought what's the point? What will I tell them? I have no number plate or way to identify the clown, It was over and done with in 10 sec, if he wants to ride off and dies later of internal injuries, well that's his bad luck for twice doing the wrong thing. Why should I make myself accountable when he didn't have the balls to stick around? He really found himself between a rock and a hard place being the back of a bus and my Bullbar. I really think it's going to be a good idea to get those car camera's for all our cars. I also had a bus try to pull out on me when I was BESIDE him 2 weeks back. How do I prove that he didn't have his blinker on when I approached if I did tag the twit If I didn't have a camera? Just lucky at the time no one was coming the other way because I instictiely went to the wrong side of the road to avoid him and if someone had of been coming then I'd be twice at fault. So I did live up to my word that I would tag one of the two wheel twits if they were at fault, only I had no conscious part in it. The twit was entirely responsible himself. I spose though it will go into his reptior of how bad drivers are and how they run these saints off the road. No doubt he'll portray himself as a law abiding road sharing user that always does all the right things and it's just the tiny minority of cyclists that do the wrong thing. Yeah, My black arse minority. I have been in the land of the latte sippers for 2 weeks now and I haven't see one that didn't cut up the traffic, run reds or break the law in other ways and most of them would be lucky to be in my view for more than a minute. Yesterday Morning while suffereing driving around Yuppy land central again, I noticed some left over election posters from the greens ( There is more telling Irony, If they are so green, why do they use all this printed election material they then leave around littering the place?)) calling for " Improved Cycleways". I looked and thought Yeah right, so more of them like this tosser can ignore them and they will just take space and money that could have been used to transport infinitely more people on roads. I still say though, If it comes to me or my family or a lycra looser, I aint going to be the one they put in a black plastic bag.
  2. My processing setup is mainly an all in one although due to the oil I have been getting of late and the fact I don't want to store loads of it due to ( Finally) moving house soon, I have an open top drum I am pre filtering with. This is just an open top 44 that I got some felt like material the Mrs didn't want any more ( but it was a Lovely shade of purple when she bought it 10+ years ago) that I put in the drum with a deep pocket and secured with a Cheap Tie down strap. The drum has a Bung I welded in at the bottom. When the thing is about half full ( as the felt goes about half way down so filtration stops) I pump it out into a holding drum till I'm ready to process. The processor is another 44 that is inverted and I have tapped into the large bung hole with an adaptor and that feeds the $80 Pump I got from Bunnings. The output of the Pump has a T piece, one side goes to the tank direct to aerate the oil ( Like sticking a garden hose atop the water in a swimming pool and creating a stream of air bubbles) and the other side goes to a Blue House water filter with a 5UM element in it then returns to the tank. The bottom of the tank has some holes cut in it. One has a fan mounted sucking the air OUT of the tank, the other lets the air in and is the fill hole and the other was so I could make a panel with fittings for the oil to shoot into the tank to dry it and the other is the filtered return. It is IMPERATIVE to have a fan sucking the air out of the tank. The splashing/ aeration caused by the high pressure stream of oil returning evaporated the moisture out of the oil. If there is no active air circulation, the air just humidifies and no further drying takes place. I also found ( the hard way) that having the air blowing in is no good either. Don't ask me why, but having the air forced in is MUCH slower for drying than having the air sucked out. Tried the test many times and the results are repeatable and constant. I fill the drum, let the oil circulate just through the return for a bit if the weather is cool to warm the oil from the pump and then open the valve for the oil to go through the filter. If the filtration is very slow or stops fairly quick, either you have putrid oil ( which you won't have if you pre filter it through a shopping bag or material) or there is a bit too much fat and the oil is cool enough to let it block the filter. If the weather is cold and I know I have wet oil, I usually hit the side of the drum with one of my WVO burners ( ) ( ) and get the oil up to about 70o. This drives the water off much faster and of course allows it to filter very easily. Depending on how wet the oil is to start with, I let the processor run from anything from 3 hours to 30 Min. Once it's going, no need to hang around, it's fine on its own. I can do a hot pan test to check how dry the oil is but having done this for 8 years now, I pretty much know by experience. I disconnect the hose from the filter at the return point on the drum and then use that hose to pump the oil into either the storage drum or the small 25L drums I use to fill the truck. Lots of people whine about how long it takes to much around prepping the oil but it's all in the setup. I'm doing it slower than what I used to atm and I'm also doing a lot of it manually where I used to pump it for exercise. that being the case, If I spent 30 Min hands on time to produce about 175L of oil, I'd be taking my time. I do it it stages so it may be a couple of 5 min stints to fill the pre filter tank and then pump it to the holding drum, another 10 to fill the processor and set it going and another 10 to pump it into the small drums. For me it's a hobby but at $250++ I save on buying fuel, it's well worth my time! I'll try to get some pics of the setup in the next couple of days as I'm ready to do another batch pretty soon. I wouldn't ( and don't) bother with a HE and I'm in sydney where it's a lot cooler for a lot longer in the year than Brisvegas. I Drove up there last July to shoot a job and didn't change a thing on my truck and never had any problems other than a load of crap Diesel I bought when I mis calculated oil consumption. The irony of running the truck on rubbish that so many criticise without a problem only to have trouble with fuel that costs the equivalent of gold compared to what I normally use pi$$ed me off no end! A HE is only of any use once the vehicle has warmed up. Electric heaters are a complete and utter con. I had an entertaining conversation with a company rep that was pushing the things on a veg forum and being the bastard I am, Finally got the guy to admit, his $300 heaters he had touted so highly were incapable of warming the oil even a 3L Diesel would use more than 3-5o C. IE, completely and utterly useless! And his heaters were supposed to be the best. YA! Obviously if you use coolant driven heaters which are the only ones with enough grunt to do anything, they don't work till the engine is warmed up. Once the engine is up to temp, the underbonnet temp and hot air off the exhaust will take care of any necessary heating. What I did do last winter to ensure I didn't get any fats blocking the filter was to replace the OEM filter with one from a Subaru. These are a round metal filter with spigots coming off the top which makes them dead easy to hook up. I sat the filter right on the exhaust manifold next to the turbo. Now most of the pedantic Veg oil keyboard warriors will crap on about over heating the oil with exhaust. Of course like most things, they use flawed mental dreaming to assume their conclusions. I have, like most things, got my hands dirty and knuckles skinned and TESTED it. I used a length of copper along the down pipes on my other NA 4.2 and clamped it as securely as I could in plenty of places and rant the oil through that. Result: The oil was able, at times, to get lukewarm. There is a big difference between having a pipe sitting at 300oC and transferring that heat into another pipe and then to a liquid that doesn't have a fantastic heat coefficient to start with. As such, sticking the fuel filter on the turbo Manifold doesn't cause it to get overly hot either. Probably heat soaks a bit once the engine is stopped but that's more going to be heat radiated through the air than direct convection. Today I was Checking the oil etc after I drove the thing about 10 KM and the Filter which is now sitting beside the Brake booster ( no need for heat in summer) was noticeably warm anyway. I dial my fuel up pretty well at times and the Subaru Filter have no trouble keeping up unlike a lot of others I have tried and last really well. I normally recommend running 5% ULP in veg oil because it brings the timing back closer to that of Diesel and thins the oil a bit as well. Most engines, depending on how they are tuned/ where the fueling is, will pick up a bit of power over straight oil and it does make for a bit easier starts in winter when the oil is cold and can be a bit thick. I'd definitely recommend 5-10% ULP in winter but having said that, I have started my truck at -3 on several occasions and once at -6 on a country trip last year on straight oil and had no problems at all. That said, I have been lazy ( and tight) all this summer so have been running straight oil for months. I run around the suburbs ( endlessly after my kids) as well as having done 300+ Km trips to the country an average of once a month for the last 5 months. The truck runs fine and I have not have had any fuel related issues. Water pump, power steering pump have started to leak and the alternator died one night coming back, but no running problems. Westy, Are you still running the WMO and how is that/ did that go? I can get loads of that but like most people with Veg, I'm a bit scared of the unknown. I did try some with one of my little industrial engines on my induction generator. It didn't like it. Started off OK but after a few hours running, the thing started smoking a lot. Too much for my liking and the exhaust note had changed noticeably. I put it back on Bio and after an hour or so it came good again. some people on the Cogen forums said I should have thinned it but the same engine has a lot of hours on straight veg without a problem. Anyway, be interested to know how you went with it in your truck.
  3. The Veg oil Primer. No way to keep this short so make a cuppa and settle in or go to the next thread if your concentration is short. I have tried to address commonly asked questions in this post to make the info as informative as possible and answer as many questions as possible instead of just creating more. Vegetable oil based fuels are a replacement for Diesel Fuel only. They CANNOT be used in petrol engines. There are basically 3 ways of using Veg oil: * Straight Veg oil Known as WVO ( Waste Veg oil) and SVO (Straight Veg oil.) Any vegetable oil can be used. Cottonseed, canola, Corn and sunflower are the most popular in oz. Peanut, olive , palm and other oils can also be used. There is little to no difference between the way they work in an engine. Straight Veg is best not used in everyday start stop traffic unless a water injection system is fitted to clean out potential deposit build-up. SVO Fuelled vehicles also benefit from regular full power squirts to keep injectors and engine internals clean and short runs as with any Diesel are not recommended. Veg is at it’s best on long drives and under load. WVO generally requires modifications to the fuel system of the vehicle. The common mods are to fit a heat exchanger to the coolant circuit of the vehicle so the oil is heated as it passes through. The heating thins the oil and reduces it’s viscosity to make it easier for the IP and injectors to spray into the engine. Normally also fitted is a 6 port or Pollack valve. This enables the vehicle to be started on regular diesel and run till the engine is up to operating temp and then switched to WVO. Before shutdown the engine is returned to the Dino so the oil is flushed from the system. The valve is operated from a switch fitted to the dash so can be operated by the driver on the go. The fuel is changed over because WVO is much harder to “ Light” than diesel and makes starting much easier on some Vehicles, particularly if they are older and have less than perfect compression. WVO systems are known as 2 tank systems as another tank ( generally a 20L drum or such) is fitted to hold the diesel for start-up and shutdown. Many people also fit a 2nd set of larger fuel lines for the oil and as a backup however this is not at all a necessity and few vehicles requite it. The 6 port valves are designed to run on the original lines and just swap feed tanks. Once the engine is hot, it can be run as long as required on veg. If the engine is shut down for a short time, 2-3 hours depending on ambient temp, there is no need to change over back to diesel. The oil will stay warm and thin enough to easily re start the engine on. With regards to performance on Veg oil, the oil itself has about 10% less energy value than Dino. Some people say they gat a slight power loss, some say no different and a few say they get an increase. It really depends on the tune of the engine and the vehicle although assuming a slight full power loss is most practical. The addition of 5% Petrol has been found to restore a lot of the lost power and has other benefits in cold starts and thinning of the oil. SVO is collected from restaurants and has to be cleaned of food particles and any water. Many people do not “ Dry” their oil and unless the oil has had water added ( rain in the waste oil drum or washing dregs for the restaurant) then short term use is OK. ( Say on a trip where drying is difficult) The reason for drying the oil is stated as preventing damage to the IP but practical experience of hundred’s of people is that bacterial growth forms in the fuel tank and causes problems long before any IP damage occurs. Anti bacterial additives are usually compatible with Veg. Most people filter the oil to 5 Micron (Um) through “ Sock” filter bags which are available from industrial filter suppliers and there are also some sellers on ebay. These bags are properly rated and remove all the particulates to their rated size. They are also available in 2 and 1 UM, some people preferring to go to the smaller size for good measure. By comparison, Regular Diesel is generally rated to 10 Um filtration as are most on-board filters. Another way of filtering oil is with household type water filters. These are also rated in Microns and can be obtained in sizes from 20 to .5 Um. When using these filters, It is highly preferable to use the “ String wound” Types as against the expanded foam type as the latter has much less dirt holding capacity and blocks much faster. Water filters can be very handy for filtering oil on the road and the filter cartridges can be bought from hardware stores and the like on ones travels. There have been highly incorrect news reports over the years that the veg oil can be merely poured through a disposable “ Chux” type cloth and into the tank. This will work for a short time till the particles block the tank pickup, stuff the fuel pump or block the on-board filters in VERY short order. It is highly preferable to have a reserve of veg oil and let it sit as long as possible before use. This allows much of the crap and any free water to drop to the bottom of the tank and leaves much cleaner oil on the top which allows the filter bags to last much longer when the oil is processed before use. * Biodiesel. Unlike with WVO, Bio requires NO modification to the Vehicle. One pours it in as they would diesel. Biodiesel is basically a chemical filtering/ stripping of one Molecule of the oil to make it much thinner and a direct, pour in replacement for Regular diesel that can be used in most engines save for the later DPF types in some cases. Biodiesel requires no preparation of the oil as far as filtering but free water in the oil is to be avoided as it reduces the yield of bio and increases the amount of waste product. Most Bio makers just strain out any bits of chips, batter, bones etc with a few layers of fly wire and call it good. Any junk is pulled out in the by product. Biodiesel is made by Mixing Methanol (generally at 20% volume to oil) and a caustic base ( KOH, NaOH… AKA, Drain cleaner) together, heating the oil to about 50oC to speed the reaction process and mixing it with the oil generally for an hour to ensure complete conversion to Bio. After being left to stand, A thick black goop drops to the bottom and is known a Glycerine. This is generally around 20% of the oil volume but depends on the quality of the oil to begin with and how used up it was. This is drained off the Bio and the bio is then washed with water to remove any dissolved Glycerine and residual methanol/ caustic and then dried. The drying is generally done by use of a powerful aquarium pump and a bubble stone to evaporate the water out of the mix until the Bio is clear and shiny. Bio can be very hard on rubber components and seals etc. Generally rubber has not been used for many years in vehicles but occasionally it may be encountered on older vehicles. Most new components are relatively impervious and a material called “Viton” can also be obtained in may applications which is Bio proof. One character of Bio is that it is a fantastic solvent. When used in fuel tanks, after a while a lot of black rubbish will start being seen in fuel filters. This is NOT from the bio itself but rather the bio stripping out the rubbish that has built up from the years of diesel use. People fit cheap disposable filters to catch this and save the more exy OEM filters or remove the tank and clean it out properly. The age and quality of the fuel used determines how much crap is liberated. Bio will thicken in cold weather ( below 5oC) but it depends to what extent on the oil used and how pure the Bio has been made. In cold weather many people cut the bio with alpine Diesel or Kerosene to keep it flowing easily. * Blending. This is my personal favourite way of using Veg oil although it is the underdog of all the methods despite offering all the advantages and few of the drawbacks. Blending is simply mixing or cutting WVO with a solvent. Popular choices are Dino, Bio, and Petrol. Other things such as Avtur, avgas, Turps, thinners and Kero also work well depending on available supply to the user. The WVO is Cleaned as normal and simply mixed together with the solvent and poured in the vehicle tank like one would with dino or Bio. NO mods are generally required to the vehicle although some people fit a Heat exchanger for good measure to help thin the oil component. Blending ratios can start at 95% oil and go down to 95% solvent depending on what is being used and most importantly, the prevailing temperature at which the fuel and vehicle are being used in. One could use 95% Dino, 5% oil or it could also be 95% oil, 5% Dino. The only limitation is with petrol/ avgas blends where it is unwise to go over 15%, 20% absolute max in sub zero weather. DEPENDING on the vehicle, as little as 5% Petrol or Kero can be used in summer. Some vehicles prefer more, but 10% in summer with petrol would be a safe limit. For Dino, in summer anything from 10 to 30% would be workable but you can add as much dino as you like obviously. In winter and as always depending on the vehicle, anything from a 30% ration of Dino up would work. The guide to how much solvent is used is generally based on how well the vehicle starts. It is not necessary for a an engine to fire on the first compression stroke as some seem obsessed with but it is desirable to have the engine fire within 5 sec. When the blend is right, this is easily achievable. After starting there may be a little stumbling for a few seconds till the engine gets some warmth into it but after this the engine will run as if on dino. Obviously starting is much easier in Summer. Ideally blends should be varied according to the prevailing conditions for best efficiency. No use using 50% Dino when 20% would allow the vehicle to operate perfectly well. One would also not want to be running 20% petrol on a 35o summers day as the possibility of the fuel boiling in the lines and creating vapour lock would be be high. Blending takes a little while to become proficient at but soon one gets a feel for the vehicle and the engine and knows what mix to make. 3 part mixes can also be effective where say one is already up to 15% petrol but starts are still a little hard so additional kero or dino can be added. Generally people try to keep the solvent content which is usually bought and paid for fuel as low as possible and the free veg oil ratio as high as possible.
  4. Glort

    GU3 steering wheel

    Airbag related wiring is always wrapped in bright yellow sheathing as well. This should be on the bag, under the dash and on the sensors.
  5. A couple of weeks back, a friend of mine woke up in the night to the sound of running water. Getting up to investigate he put his feet on the bedroom floor and the water was almost ankle deep. The flexible hose on the bathroom sink tap had blown out and the mat was covering the drain hole so the water spilled out all through the house by the time he heard it and woke up. Major problems and ruined contents. Tonight the Mrs was cooking dinner and panicked when she saw "smoke" coming out of the sink cupboard. Opening it she got sprayed with hot water. When we cleared the sodden mess out, the braided hose for the flick mixer tap I put in less than 2 years ago had split and was spraying water everywhere. Didn't take long for the water to be running across the kitchen floor. If it had happened while I was asleep or out, It would have been a giant shitfight like my friends place. The real scary thing was that I was going to go away tonight for a week but felt tired and not wanting to rush packing, the mrs and I decided to leave in the morning instead. I think I'll be turning off the water and pulling the water heater fuse and some others before I go now. My mates whole house upstairs and downstairs suffered a LOT of damage and of course the insurance company weasels are trying to shaft him on the claim. Not nice a few weeks out from his wedding which is where I was heading off to. Could have been a whole lot worse off than him with the water going for a week! SO... If you have these Chit flexible pipes in your home, be careful! A google search shows these things burst all the time and cause all sorts of grief. If I find the crap in the next house I'll be throwing it the Chit house and replacing it with good old copper. And if I come across a place that has that crap plastic plumbing.... NEXT!!! A plumber once bragged to me it was guaranteed for 20 years. I said that means the house i'm living in now would have had all the walls ripped out 5 times now to replace the garbage. It's not even cheaper than copper, it's just faster for the lazy arse plumbers to put in the places when they are being built. If you have to have these flexible braided hoses, Might be an idea to replace them every so often to avoid catastrophe. My house has wooden floors so I'll be boring a couple of 1" holes through the bottom of the cupboards and the floor so if the worst does happen, Hopefully the run off won't spread so far. Bit hard if your on a slab but that may be reason not to have these things at al!
  6. I sold mine. The old girl anyway. Been keeping it around and going to do it up for my son but he's not really interested especially since experiencing the turbo power of the new one. I sold it not running and no rego and had a heap of people ring for it. 1st guy to come look Bought it on the spot and had a tow truck come and take it away within 2 hours. Always sad to see an old vehicle go. That thing never gave me one bit of trouble and the only money I spent on it was tyres and rego. I even got a Grand more for the thing than I paid for it. The new one goes in for a new HD clutch on Monday. Getting the rear main done and new engine mounts as well.
  7. Lying in bed last night I got a brainwave. It happens every 10-20 years. I built a an oil burner a while back that works on draught alone. Burns pretty clean and puts out awesome heat though most of it of course is in the flue gasses rather than radiant. The thing is an old casserole type pot I cut a large hole in the top and sat an old fire extinguisher on that I cut the top and bottom out of and put a load of holes in the sides. On top of that I put a length of 4" Pipe. Around the edges of the lid of the pot I put 4 1" holes. The fire burns in the pot and gets the primary air through the 1" holes then goes into the secondary chamber where the air mixes pulled in by the draft of the chimney. It could use more holes in the Secondary chamber to burn perfectly clean but that would also dilute the flue gas temp and rich is hot... Just like a Diesel engine! So what I did today is get some 20L oil tins from a load I picked up on the weekend and fitted the 4" pipe right through the middle. With all the delicate skill and craftsmanship an unskilled person can muster with a wood chisel, a hammer and a pair of pliers, I cut a nice snug fitting hole to the top and bottom drums and the ends out of the middle one. On the bottom burner I fitted a squirrel cage Blower and on the top, I impressed myself by cutting a hole in a star design with the metal sections coming out so I had somewhere to tape the duct on. The blower wasn't quite strong enough to force the air through so I got an 8" in-line ventilator fan and put that on to act as a booster and put some more duct on that to take it inside through the cat flap. The blower merely blows air on the flue pipe which normally glows red for about the first 2 feet and the resulting warm air is blown in the house. The setup looks as redneck as Imaginable but stuff me if it's not about 30o in here and I have the burner running at about 1/3 power. It's using about 2L of oil an hour which is high because it's real inefficient atm but I can fix that. I'll add another 2-3 tins tomorrow on the flue pipe which is still uncovered and bloody hot. I think this will allow the burner to be throttled back some more and the same or better heat generated. 1L/ hr of oil generates about 30Kw so even with poor efficiency, that should keep the place nice and cosy. I have to say I'm a bit amazed at how well this works. Sure it's about 20% efficient ( 80% INefficient) ATM but it's a stack of oil drums with a stove pipe in the middle and a fan blowing air on it. The surface area to the cold outside air is far greater than the area exposed on the hot side. I have some insulation that will fix that. The extra drums will help as well. I'll take some pics tomorrow for a laugh and post them up. The thing is, this Pile of scrap could run on any waste oil you can get your hands on.... engine oil, tranny oil, Veg, hydraulic or even animal fat. All you would have to do is start the thing with some liquid oil, sit your drum of fat close by and it would melt the stuff as it burnt. The blowers I am using are about 150W and the amount of heat I could generate with this thing would melt the snow off the roof of a place if required. What it has opened my eyes to is how efficient something like this could be if a Dollar was actually spent on it. This thing will last me this winter then when I'm in new digs next winter I'll do something up properly. Perhaps the biggest achievement with this thing is I'm still in the house. The mrs came home and saw this " construction" sitting on her beloved back Verandah and wanted to know why the hell I had brought my chit onto her veranda and it better not be there tomorrow. She seems very happy to have it there right now and be sitting round watching TV in a T shirt instead of a jumper. We have air but I think shes enjoying having this thing turned right up without having to worry about what it's doing to the power bill. So far the only comment is can I put a duct in the wall so the animals can get in and out the cat flap? WINNER! Quite satisfying
  8. Glort

    Veg oil home heater.

    Heres a Vid of the baby in action going to work on an old alternator I was going to take to scrap. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS47JZl--Qs I'm half Inclined to take the thing up the wrecking yard when I visit in a couple of weeks and try it on an engine just for chits and giggles. I reckon I could knock one over in 30 Min without much problem. Might have to set it up on some wire to let the ally drip through and catch the steel bits. Might even make an interesting bit of wall art for the workshop.
  9. Just saw this topic has come to light again. I have been running the Turbo Troll at 11 PSI after purchasing one of those little boost controller things. Best $40 ever spent! The thing spools up SOOOO much quicker now and transformed the thing. It's so much better off the lights and a real torque monster down low. THE Boost controller seems to have done as advertised and stopped a lot of the wastegate creep down low. I dialed the thing up to 20 Psi for a couple of trips round the block but it didn't make much difference. There is enough air at 11 Psi to burn all the fuel I want to put in it so anything else is just hot air and stress for nothing. I still can't back the fuel out of the bottom enough without killing the rest of the rev range badly so it's something I have to watch. I'll keep blending with 5% ULP and hope that helps with combustion as I'm sure it does. I put a water injection on in my traditional way, windshield washer pump through a garden micro nozzle and am spraying into the airbox. Some hits the filter, some goes straight through to the turblow. I have been keeping an eye on the blades for the parroted erosion but unsurprisingly, no sign of it so far. Biggest surprise has been it hasn't even washed off the oily crap that the PVC vent was dumping in there before I pulled that stupid idea out. I was wondering if a little tiny bit of washing liquid may help shift that and any other crud further down the line without building up somewhere else. The water makes a big difference to the way the thing goes. I'm running about 400Ml/min to keep the effects of Veg build up at bay seeing I can't really clean the thing up at low revs with the non compensated pump. The water makes a difference far more than I would have expected, especially when this engine is so grunty to start with. You can tell when the water runs out because the edge to the torque just falls right off. I noticed the water made it harder to drive smoothly because any little indiscretion with the clutch or throttle is greatly magnified when the squirt is running. ATM I have it coming on at 3 PSi because the thing will boost to 2 PSI just on the flat at 100 kmh. In that way the water is great because as soon as you touch the throttle the water and boost are there together. I had the water coming on at just 1 PSI and to my surprise, the engine didn't mind it at all. Just goes through a LOT of water when it's pretty much on all the time. So far I haven't tried this one with meth. It will be interesting because maybe it will allow the veg to be backed off and the difference made up with the WI which will help keep the engine clean. I might go get 10 L of E85 tomorrow and wash the petrol out and see how it goes.
  10. I just bought another Gq oiler that comes complete with a snail. ​It's not inter cooled and I was wondering if this makes any difference to the output you can wring out of them or has any other benefits besides the obvious. I'm not sure about fitting an IC but I will be fitting Water injection which probably has a better cooling effect on the intake charge. Being a turbo I can easily rig the WI to a pressure switch and trigger it that way. I'll also be looking for a possible location for a substantial water tank. If I do go the IC route, does anyone know what the best size is and what sort of thickness or specification is needed? I'm thinking and IC, air con condenser and the radiator is a lot of coolers to be putting at the front. On boost up a hill, the radiator may be getting warmed up rather than cooled off! I don't know what actual turbo the thing has, but is there a general safe boot pressure and EGT for the things? I'm not after max output but I would like to have it healthy and safe. I'm hoping even a conservative level of tune should be a big Improvement on the old NA Girl. Any general advise and insight would be appreciated.
  11. Glort

    Do You use a real camera?

    I mentioned an SLR to an army bloke once and he thought I was talking about a gun. Self Loading Rifle as they are known in that trade. I was doing some pics of a mates girlfriend the other day and he was wandering around outside snapping pics of my junk with his phone. He loaded them to that instagram thing and sent me the link. I hope he doesn't take up photography, I wouldn't like to compete with his artistic skill. I told him I thought he had a real good eye for things but of course he just thought I was trying to be nice. Ya think after 20 years he'd have learnt I'm never nice about anything. I was ant my Nephews Birthday party last night and he brings out a Canon 650D he bought himself and showed me the pics he had taken on his morning runs as a Garbage truck driver. MY Grandparents always told me that I didn't want to end up driving a garbage truck but I know plenty of well qualified people that don't earn near what he does! For a garbo, he's another one I don't want changing professions. He was making excuses for the pics the whole time I'm thinking " Wish I had taken that!". I sent him some links for lenses and a flash he wants to buy like mine and when he gets a bit of gear he will have some very worthwhile pics I think. One thing that has always amused me with people is when they say " I don't take very good pictures so I don't take them very often." I always replay, I'm pretty hopeless at things I never do or practice either. I can take good pictures but that skill didn't come about through god given natural talent. It takes practice." That seems to strike a chord with people basically because its 100% true. Only way I know to improve at something is to practice. Bit of reading theroy doesn't hurt either but the hands on stuff is very important. My niece also reminded me of something I mentioned about phones. Her 6 month old bit of cutting edge technology had a freak out and the lithium battery had a minor meltdown, melt being the operative word. She's stressing if she can get her data, mainly pictures and numbers off the thing because she used that almost exclusively on her OS trip she not long got back from. I like her Boyfriend, I think he's a smart guy and he endeared himself a bit more to me by giving her some grief about using a phone for photo taking instead of a real camera. He's not shy of a Quid and told me he has taken her into camera shops a dozen times and told her to pics something out but she says she prefers her phone. He said from now on he'll just get the thing and download it and back it up every month for her. Fortunately he's blessed with a few more smarts than my very loveable and sweet although somewhat absent minded Niece.
  12. My son Finished school this week and had his formal on Monday and graduation today. On monday night there were about 50 Kids and proud parents all converged on a teachers house where they caught a Vintage Bus to go into the function in the city. Out of all the parents there, I saw on little P&S camera. Everyone else was snapping away madly on their phones. Today it was about 1500 parents and while I saw maybe 20-30 real cameras and only a few SLR's, again there were HUNDREDS of people squinting into their phones ( and a few Iplads) Snapping away at what really were a fine Bunch of kids. After I gained world famous status at The school this week after my son uploaded all the pics from Monday on Facewaste in hi res for them to download. I got besieged today with kids and parents wanting to mark this occasion as well. I'm pretty sure a good number of them thought I was the Hired "Official" shooter. Wasn't a problem but many of the comments I heard got me thinking. It really seemed that many people though I must have been a pro shooter just because I had an actual SLR camera rather than taking my happy snaps on a phone. One of My son's friends SIster who was their with her entry level SLR and Kit lens told me when we were standing around after the event that she had been asked 3 times if she was a professional because of her camera. I'm pretty surprised at this. I see so many of the " I got a camera for Christmas so now I'm a pro shooter" types trying to make a buck I thought everyone pretty much owned a digi SLR these days or at least a tiny pocketable thing worth $129 that would have left my $10K Digi SLR's of 10 years ago for dead. I know Phone cams these days are considered so good and that mags have published covers taken on them but frankly and without being pedantic, I haven't seen an image out of a phone that has impressed me yet. Yeah, they look great on a 2x3" phone screen but when you stuff around and put them on the 27" on the computer or lord forbid, try to print one to an 8x12, they look pretty ordinary without fixing noise, colour balance and a lot of other details. My kids have to have the latest and greatest from Crapple and Samflungdung and I have tested the pics from these things and I am left wondering does anyone ever take the pics off their phones and print them or view them on a screen you can actually see? What really gets me is how people try to take pics in the dark and other terrible and wrong lighting and then look at the image and declare it a good one because "it came out!" Light people, Use some LIGHT instead of expecting to get a picture of any worth in the bloody dark! I have a bunch of the Little P&S camera's I use for my business and the images off those things are awesome. I would have no problems shooting a wedding on one . I take My little GX1 canons everywhere with me and the pics I get are every bit as good as my SLR's. Sooooo, I'm just wondering what people here use? Do you rely on your phone for picture taking or do you prefer a real camera? Do you ever print out your Phone pics and how do you think they compare to pics printed from a real camera? Also, if you are a phone pic taker, do you ever back these up on your computer or laptop or just upload them to faceache or.....?? Anyone take stills with a go-Pro?
  13. Glort

    Do You use a real camera?

    I half caught an ad on TV the other night for a phone with some new Mega camera built in. I can't remember the MP but it seemed huge for a phone. Don't watch much TV ( maybe an hour a week) so I haven't seen it since but obviously the Camera thing is proving to be a big accessory on phones. I printed a Photo taken under ideal conditions ( bright sunlight) from my sons Iphoney4. Did it close to it's native size of 6x8 and It wasn't bad at all I have to say. Unfortunately it seems that most pics I see people take are in terrible lighting that no camera would do well with. A friend of mine is into fitness and the last couple of years has entered one magazines annual Photo comp. Before you had to send in a pic on a white Background, this year they changed it to "Selfies". I was looking online the other day and the resulting dogs breakfast is exactly what I would have predicted. All these people starting at phones in a Mirror. It looks totally lame and I wonder how long it will be before this current trendy Fo Par is realised for what it is. Stupid. Out of all the entries I saw, Only one person used an actual camera. I checked the rules and no where does it say you have to use a phone, I guess that's just what people relate it to these days along with the proliferation of pics taken on phones. I think Picture taking is going backwards with phones. Years ago photos were bit of a hit and miss affair often resulting in poor quality. Things got better with the advent of electronics and then Digital but now they are going backwards again with the use of camera phones. People seem to take less care and don't have any sense of quality. If it looks ok on the 2' screen it must be good. Often it's not. I reckon in the future there will be a lot of people without many pics of themselves or missing a lot of important moments. It seems few people actually save their images from their phones and phones have a habit of getting dropped and lost and destroyed. If all the pics of your kids are on there from the last 12 months-2 years, that's going to be a big part of their growing up gone missing. For those that have lots of pics on HDDS, DO back them up! I have lost plenty of my own kids pics through HDD's crashing, sometimes when they were only weeks old. Now I make directories every month on my Machine and at the beginning of each month I Plug in another HDD, transfer that months pics and away it goes again till next month. In January, I back all the years pics to yet another drive as well. I'm always changing drives on my machine so I just use regular SATA drives but portable HDDS are ideal for this and are too cheap not to do it now.
  14. Glort

    Bogaard turbo timer

    Seriously I wouldn't worry about a turbo timer. They have been pretty conclusively debunked as being of no benefit other to the people peddling them to get richer. Modern turbos and oils don't suffer the same fate as older style turbos and I can't think of a single manufacturer that fits a turbo timer to any new vehicle despite how many there are these days. I was going to fit one to my truck but then I read up on them and to my mind the evidence was overwhelming they are a load of guff. My own truck has been without one for 20 years and hasn't stuffed the turbo yet without one so why bother? How many wires does the timer you want to use have anyway? The one I picked up only has 3 or 4 and they were easy to figure out. Those plug adapters give me the irrits. $25 to cater for people that can't figure out how to cut and solder wires together. My son brought another of his mates round the other day for me to fit yet another stereo. He was crestfallen when he discovered the adapter was wrong. I sent him back to supercheapo and told him to get a refund as I had one in the shed and I'd find it while they were gong. Time they got back I'd tapped into the wiring without cutting off the original plug and had the thing all hooked up. They didn't even notice there was no connector being too excited with the new sounds. Cost me a hell of a lot less than $25 to wire the thing in and it didn't take any more time than going to buy a connector and coming back would have anyway. I did find the Turbo Timer I picked up to make an excellent shed light timer though. 12V plugpack and a 12/240V relay and I can switch off the shed light and walk over all the rubbish and be well back in the house before the light turns off. Much better than tripping over crap on the way out of the shed and stepping in what the dog who refuses to go on the grass leaves behind on the driveway about 5 times a day.
  15. Glort

    Veg oil home heater.

    Well it's been a while but I recently built the scariest burner of all so far. It's doing 300Kw which isn't a huge leap from the smaller one in output but it is when your standing next to the barstard! The elbow on the top of the Burner is 4" and it's full of fast moving flame. I think this one could go possibly as high as 500KW but I have maxed out the air on the industrial blower. I made the intake 2" for better airflow and the blower gets the air in at much lower pressure than with the little one. If I could supply more air, then I could also introduce more fuel and get more heat. The thing sure sucks down the Fuel! I use 25L transparent square drums and while you can't quite see the fuel going down, you can sure see the difference in 5 min! It takes a lot of feeding compared to the others. I had about 150L of crappy Veg oil I set aside earlier in the year for burner fuel because I couldn't be bothered cleaning it up for use in the truck. I sure got through that fast with this thing. Few good play/ melt sessions and it was gone. The 300Kw burner is awesome. I threw an alternator in front of the thing when it wasn't near flat out and the thing melted all the aluminium off from a cold start in 2.5 min. I pulled the rotor off the plate that it was sitting on in front of the flame and that Kilo or so of steel was glowing red hot. The copper windings didn't fuse though which surprised me but the thing was too hot to touch for 30 min. I completely melted a manifold almost as fast as I could push it into the flame once it the first bit melted. Being long and with long branch runners I couldn't get the flame over more than and end at a time but once the end melted which took about 15 sec, as fast as I could more the rest of it into the flame it was gone. I had the thing turned up pretty well at that stage and after the holocaust the next day, I realised that there had been a heap of Molten ally sprayed all down the driveway on the concrete. I thought the amount of ally that I got from the manifold was a lot less than I thought. I picked up a couple of cup fulls in sprayed/ powder off the drive which I remelted again and it was definitely ally not dirt. Bit too much thrust there. I have to concede, I don't see the 1000Kw job becoming a reality any time soon. To get enough air you would have to probably go to a really substantial blower. I'm thinking 3 phase or petrol driven. The inlet would have to be 4" minimum I reckon. The outlet would probably have to be around 6" to allow for the gas expansion and to keep the back pressure reasonable. Fuel feed might need to be 1/2" because I'm using 3/8 now and that sure as hell isn't going to be enough unless you feed that in at 10 or more PSI. It would be a scary bugger of a thing to run flat out that's for sure. That said, I have a suitable sized tank sitting at the ready If I do decide to do the Frankenberger. I'm thinking I might get a couple of alloy heads off one of the old engines that come back into the yard when they buy a used one And do a vid on melting those. I can't see them lasting more than 5 min. The engines get stripped for some parts and sensors mainly so everything to get to the heads is already off bar the rocker covers. I was seriously looking at melting the whole engines . I thought I could load them into a 44 and stick the burner into that which would help concentrate the heat like an oven and If I had them on an angle, I could run the molten ally out the bung hole. From there I could just pull the steel out the next day. I went to the scrappys the other week and the price of metal is nothing atm. I think I saw ally at 30 or 50C a Kilo. Not worth the effort even for fun. It was heaps higher before and made an engine worth something but atm may as well just sell them as Dirty ally with the things intact and be done with it. Did you get to doing anything with your shed heaters westy?
  16. Glort

    White smoke on startup but clears

    Glow plugs are a possibility but I have also heard from an NRMA road service guy in the country that the diesel blends are particularly off this winter. Apparently there was a lot of the normal " Summer" diesel still going out recently instead of the winter or alpine blends and that was causing a LOT of diesel issues. When I visited my uncle recently in Northern inland NSW, he mentioned the same thing. In some of the cooler inland areas, loads of people were having trouble getting their vehicles started because of thick or solidified fuel. What was really pissing the cockys off was when they had to wait till lunch time to get their tractors and machinery started or put blow lamps on the engines like in the old days. Personally, if if your truck is only smoking for a few seconds, I wouldn't be worried. My old girl smokes real well when I start it up any time of the day in winter given I run the thing on veg oil. Last one was fine 3 years later and this one certainly isn't slowing down any or getting harder to start so I'm far from concerned. As for glow relays, Mercs do much the same thing. Keep the plugs on for 3 min regardless if the engine is hot, cold or already running. I bypassed mine completely and just put a momentary switch in it's place. Glow the thing for 10 Sec, hit the key, hold the plugs on for a few sec if needed till it smoothed out and all was good. Lots of people had problems with their plugs burning out but I was lucky to escape that. I haven't looked for Trolls but I found plugs HEAPS cheaper for the wifes car on flea bay from the UK. They were cheap but seemed to last just as short as anyone elses plugs even the oem ones that cost more each than I paid for 5. One thing I have found with GP's is if you have the fuel turned up, they tend to burn out much quicker. When I had the mrs car turned up they were going real fast. My mate had the same problem but when he changed injector pumps to one that was much leaner, the problem went away. He was doing his every 6 months and now has had the same set he put in just before he changed the pump for a tad over 2 years now.
  17. Glort

    Vacuum Pump

    I'd like to upgrade the Alternator on the TD 42. There are so many higher amp and far cheaper thing is I could use but the problem is the vac Pump. Wondering if anyone knows of any electrical or mechanical ( belt) driven pumps I could use to replace the one on the alt that wouldn't cost as much as a new alt with pump to start with? Other than that, anyone know of any relative straightforward ways of adding a 2nd alt? I thought I read of something one time but don't remember how it went.
  18. Yeah. But the thing is so much damn fun to drive! Mine is very conservative at only 11 PSI, i'd like to see how some of these ones that people have dialed up go! On the highway mine is doing about 3-4 PSI @110 Km/h. As soon as you touch the throttle the boost maxes out in about a second and the thing starts pulling and lifts the front end. The sensation of a block of flats being hurled down the road always brings a smile to my face. At highway speeds the response is instant and the 100 up acceleration is impressive for a vehicle it's size. So far it's been a case of any hill at legal or above speeds. Pretty new thing for me over the last 9 years of driving Diesels. The mate I visited in brisbane Pilots a Range Rover sport which has a 4.5L supercharged V8. He was surprised he couldn't really get away from me. He could certainly open a gap but it didn't last long on the highway and on the back streets, by the time he slowed at the end of a street I was right behind him. The rangie is pretty awesome with it's dragster like blower wine and power that will pin you back in the seat. Can't wait till he gets the new one with about 150 Hp more! The drawback is he also has a lead foot and likes the sound the thing makes so is going through about 27L/100 km or premium around town. Worse still is he's a sales rep and does a lot of miles. Round town I couldn't care less about the consumption but on the longer trips, the fuel useage will be an issue as I carry my own with me and there is a limit to what's practical. I ran short on this trip but another vegger was kind enough to meet me and give me some of his oil. Unfortunately it turned out to be rubbish and I had to buy diesel to blend it with to get me back to where I had dropped some supplies for the return trip for the last leg. Nice of the guy to give me some of his and take the time to get it to me, just unfortunate it wasn't cleaned up better. From now on I'll make up a small portable filtration setup so I can process on the road and collect for the return trip when I get to the destination.
  19. Just got back from a trip up to Qld for work and used a lot more fuel than I thought. Seems I averaged just under 16L/ 100. I had a little weight in the thing, probably no more than if I had a couple of passengers and I was running veg which should make consumption about 10% higher than Dino. The other NA truck used about 120L to Brisvegas, this one sucked about 150-160L. It sure goes up hills and over takes in another dimension to the other one. Just wondering what other people are getting with their GQ 4.2 Turblows?
  20. Glort

    Cheap Electricity!

    The only motors I am aware of in washing machines that are any good as generators are the Fisher & Paykel one because they are permanent magnet types. I haven't done a lot with those yet other than basic testing. They would be best suited to re-wiring to make an efficent alternator for battery charging or grid back feed. I came across a bunch of 2Kw solar inverters last year and these would be perfect for use with these motors. I would just need to rectify the three phase output to DC which is cheap and easy and then feed it into the solar inverters which will condition the power and feed it back to the gris spinning my meter backward for anything above the power I am using at the time. These things are real popular to convert to wind generators so if you get good breezes, some wind turbines may be a great solution for you. The benefit I would see is the things can work 24/7 in the right areas and are virtually maintenance free. Unlike an engine which would require you to supply fuel which in the case of veg you would have to collect and filter, once you built the wind Gennys they would require pretty much non of your time. You could possibly mount them on a shed roof making the hardest part, the tower, a lot easier. While the power output is lower than a generator setup, the cost is dramatically less as well and if you set up several of them, the output would be multiplied and coupled with the potential for constant operation, the KWh generated could be very significant. It' really does depend on your location though. I'm in suburbia so wind is totally impractical but I'm still inclined to build a wind turbine and stick it up on the shed roof for chits and giggles. With the efficiency of LED lighting, I could still probably get enough power to fill the lighting power needs in the garages and learn a lot in the process.
  21. Glort

    Cheap Electricity!

    Just came across this thread again while looking for some info on Google. Did you ever get round to doing anything with your own generating set up Twisty? I did get myself a Lister CS 6 Diesel engine and have been playing with that a bit and my little horizontal China Diesel. I have also been doing a bit of testing with a Fisher & Paykel washing machine motor. These are permanent magnet motors and are the 1st choice for the wind and micro hydro crowd. I tore the old machine apart and without touching anything, spun the motor with my cordless drill and got 800 Volts out of it. Apparently with a more powerful drill you can get 1000V in their standard configuration. They can be easily re-wired to give 12, 24 or 48V but I haven't decided which way I'm going to go yet. There is a 30Kw Generator I'm talking to someone about that I could drive off my Merc motor. All I'd need is an add on governor which would run about $300-350. A normal house is wired for about 20 KW so a 30 KW genny would be enough to run everything in the place. Simultaneously. :0)
  22. Does his system use the same glind HE or something different? Given you are unhappy with the temp from yours, it would be really interesting for you to install a 30 plate FPHE and see if it made a difference. Pitty I don't have one or i'd send it to you to try it.
  23. Sounds like a lot of trouble and expense for 2" worth of extra rubber! Will 35's really take you anywhere 33's won't? There is a buttwipe I see around here that drives a Landlooser that obviously has monster truck delusions of grandeur. The thing is jacked high enough I suspect to get in and out of the thing he has to have a guy push a set of stairs up to it like they do at the airport. I don't know what tyres the thing has on it but they hang about 6in out of the guards and the thing looks like it would fall over at the first lane change let alone corner. I have seen it for some time now and regularly notice it as the guy flogs the ring out of it as he goes up the hill I live on. He must be lucky to have gotten away with it for so long because I'm sure the cops would be all over the thing like a fat kid on a cup cake if they spotted him. It must be bloody unstable on the road and handle like a wheelbarrow full of Walruses. Still, there is no limit to the stupidity people will go to round here in order to look what they think is cool when they just look like Dic kheads. Of course on the other hand, you then have the clowns who lower Subaru Foresters which are in fact a Liberty wagon with raised suspension for off roading instead of buying a liberty with the lower highway type suspension in the first place..... Ya!
  24. Glort

    TurboTech Boost Controller.

    yeah, they hold the pressure back from the actuator line basically fooling the actuator to think the boost is lower. The real beauty of these things as I see it is they give far less creep in the waste gate. Obviously if the WG is set to open at 7 Psi, it will be partially open probably at 5 or maybe even lower. This means the boost is bleeding off and the engine has to spin up higher for the boost to hit max and lessens the boost lower down, right where you want it. The guts of these controllers is nothing more than a spring and a ball bearing but they are quite ingenious. The adjustment screw compresses the spring onto the ball bearing meaning the boost has to be higher to lift it off it's seat and cause the actuator to open the WG. They also bleed a little pressure off the line once they do open which makes the actuator hold longer before opening. It's a simple little devise but it works unreal. I looked at what I initially thought might be doing the job properly in getting a higher rated actuator but soon gave that idea away. They are expensive little buggers coming in at $150 and going quickly skyward from there. $40 controller that allows variable boost? No competition. THe way it works and allows the boost to come on so much better in the bottom end is unreal. When cruising in 5th on level ground, the thing is now doing about 2 PSI boost. As soon as you touch the throttle it goes straight to 6 and then climbs from there very satisfyingly as the revs and speed rise. If you pull it back to 4th and nail it, the thing really winds out to 100-110 real quick. At 100 in top, the boost is about 2.5 psi on level cruise but comes on much harder when you hit it, more around 8+ and the thing pulls very strongly for as long as you keep the boot in. It sure makes hill climbing more relaxing and overtaking much safer. I have to go up to the gold coast next month to shoot a job and I'm looking forward to it. The client was going to fly me up there but I elected to drive so I could Visit family and friends along the way. In the old truck I suffered the Diesel thing of people speeding up in the overtaking lanes and not having the grunt to get past them before the passing lane ran out as they always put them going up hills. That sure as hell won't be an issue this time! Move or be moved fkers! I'll see if the cops are on the hill again at Yamba and I get pulled over for an RBT then the truck gets Drug searched because the smell of the veg oil gets the cops in a tizz. All the poor dog could smell was a combination of Doughnuts, Fish and chips and Peking Duck. Just made the little fella hungry and the handler upset when they told me why they were searching the vehicle and I cracked up laughing at them. They stopped searching and could not get me out of there fast enough after that! I'm keeping an eye on some Vintage engines and a big gen head i'm interested in up north so if I get anything, I might be taking the trailer for a long run as well. With the way the truck is going now, I'll hardly know its there till I look for a parking spot at maccas along the way.