P4trol

Perhaps. I would prefer one of these to a 'cheap chinese' one. Incidentally the tag says "made in china"

Please understand mine is thrown into the back of the box trailer with everything else, and driven down dirt roads. This may account for the wear. I'll put up some pics when I'm cleaning it.

The only way I justified buying a new one second hand, was that it was the equivalent of three nights motel accommodation for the same trip.

Bit of an update:

This month it has been erected and put away nearly 30 times.

Some small rub holes have appeared, and sealed with silicon. One zipper at the entrance is on the brink of being useless. The bag is falling apart.

The upside is that the kids are nearly able to set up/pack it up. I will be able to fix the holes and possibly the zip. The bag... I need to find out whether they sell new ones, or I need a canvas replica.

Nice van. I've gone with a 8x5 box trailer, aluminum and a blackwolf tent. Prefer all the toys and have a basic tent to sleep.

Finally got around to finish this -->

Rescued a Toyota

Epic posts Glort! #bad parents #phone addicts Sent via tapatalk

Firstly, the "cat" in ZD30 is diesel oxidation catalyst It is there to convert leftover oxygen in exhaust gases from CO and HC to CO2 and H2O.
They are not used for NOx control thats a job of EGR in this case.
 
That device is/can be a great source of problems/restrictions if it starts getting damaged/trashed it restricts the exhaust, in any case it is unwanted restriction.
 
To knock out the internals .... environmental vandal or not, sure to free up flow of exhaust gases and consequent benefits of that are there but at increased polution levels.
 
Aftermarket exhaust are usually fitted with less restrictive cats thus making both the EPA and the engine performance happier. Tampering with vehicle emission control system can land you in a lot of trouble.
This whole thing is a grey area especially in Diesels as not all vehicles have the DOC (Diesel Oxidation Catalyst). ZD30 was one of the cleanest Diesels around when it came out thanks to this device as well. You will find that EPA and various other gubermint bodies are going to disagree with your view too
 
I read a "white paper" on Diesel emissions/polution in light vehicles from 2001 and there authors were advocating legislated compulsory retrofit of DOC and DPF to every light Diesel vehicle to lower the emmisions, with compulsory testing vehicle emmisions annually and forcing owners of aging poluting vehicles to have all these emmision reducing technologies fitted at their expense. That paper has not been forgotten, it is waiting to be implemented once there is a right time for it.
This is huge and is coming whether we like it or not, the days of Diesel engines are numbered. It will be so expensive to operate that in the end noone in their right mind will be purchasing such vehicles.
 
To "f" around with all these addons like SCR, EGR, DPF, DOC is gonna put such financial pressure on operating Diesel powered vehicles that it'll be simply cast aside in cars especially. Just look what Nissan is doing with the latest Y62 and up and coming Pathfinder models.
Today a majority of engine failures/breakdowns on commercial vehicles are due to emmisions tech shackles, its a major disaster for the industry.
 
Nissan has droped DPF from this year Navara STX with the Renault sourced Diesel V6 line up, I wonder why.....
 
Here is an anecdote for you: when I visited World's second largest commercial vehicles manufacturer powertrain facility I had the chat with a few engineers about latest development in Diesel emissions tech. A truck engine with EGR, SCR, DOC and DPF will have cleaner gas/air coming out of the exhaust pipe than the air in and around NY City. It has been measured by these nutters. When I saw the size and complexity of that stuff hanging of the engine I just shook my head. Its time for electric vehicles me think.
 
Back on the topic; I'd leave the OEM cat alone and fit aftermarket exhaust with high flow cat instead.
 
Cheers

OK, I know a rear door table isn't something new; however I thrive on borrowed ideas and necessity. The thing I love is that it is cheap to do these mods, practical, and no-ones going to sweat about a few holes in the car. There are a thousand pics of door tables on the net, but here's mine. I've seen quite a few others, taken good points and bad points. Hope it gives people some good ideas for their own.

Aim: Functional, maximum shelf space, to use mostly stainless steel

Materials:

2 or 3mm thick stainless steel from the tip shop $8
A fair amount of stainless fittings. The final ones were not too dear. The amount I bought anticipating it would work, is amazing. (I'm sure the local hardware now see me as competition with the amount of fittings I now have.
Marine carpet scrap I was given by the local trimmers (Thanks guys!)
LED self adhesive light strip $20 approx
12v dimmer

Click on pictures to enlarge. Some pictures may be too dark to make sense on eg tapatalk.

This is the finished product.




A full length hinge was used to strengthen the table, instead of glueing a backing or bracing on.




Put a twist or half twist in the supporting cable so the cable twists in as it folds up.




The table folded up.




Closeup of the fittings used to support the table. This part caused me much thought and trouble. When I initially planned it in my head, I needed to see it before going further. When I actually got this far, I found several shortcomings in the work so far. I knew I wanted to suspend it on a cable, but how? How to keep it up when folded? Spent quite a while browsing online marine shops, google images etc. Finally went to the local show, and someone was selling stainless steel bits. I could wander, fit bits together etc.




Side view of table folded. Sorry about the not-rotated pic. The edge was rolled - a tricky task. If you choose stainless steel, it is hard to work without a workshop. The rolled edge gives it a bit more strength.




To best view this pic, make sure no-one is looking, then tilt your head to the side. A daytime view of the LED strip. Quite unobtrusive.




Here is the LED switch and dimmer knob -off. The dimmer came with it's own box, the knob on the box. I opened the box, and there was enough length in the ribbon cable to cable tie the box near the variable resister (unseen part of the knob) mounted near the switch.




Here is the switch and dimmer - on. I love that switch. Ebay jobby, and it sits almost flush with the trim. The LED can be wired so it is always on, only on with the switch, or off when the switch is on. Polarity doesn't matter!




Detail of the top of the table surface and support.



Boring pic - I meant to show how dim the LEDs would go. Literally if you are really steady with your hand, you can dim them so they are visible, but don't give any usable light.





An example of how dim the LEDs go. Minimum practical lighting. If you once again turn your head on the side, and imagine the pic taken facing the end of the RH rear door.




Facing the table, with minimum practical lighting. Of course it is a bit hard to compare the pics directly. They are taken on the phone. The phone tries to make everything the same lightness. Maybe in a few weeks when I get the DSLR back up and working, and set it to manual. Maybe not - it's not a headlight comparison!




Maximum brightness.




Maximum Brightness. In this one, you can see where I have muffed some polishing I did. I have some polishing attachments for a drill. Unfortunately the fine cotton wheel was slightly out of round, and I didn't clean off the rougher polishing grit. So it roughed instead of polished!



My humble pieces of advice:

Stainless steel is hard to work with.
Wood is easy to work with, and provides easy options for support, bracing etc.
Do some browsing around for ideas/inspiration


If I was to do it again:

I would fold down the edges of the table and braze/weld the corners. The sides would allow somewhere to mount the cable support.

OK, I know a rear door table isn't something new; however I thrive on borrowed ideas and necessity. The thing I love is that it is cheap to do these mods, practical, and no-ones going to sweat about a few holes in the car. There are a thousand pics of door tables on the net, but here's mine. I've seen quite a few others, taken good points and bad points. Hope it gives people some good ideas for their own.

Aim: Functional, maximum shelf space, to use mostly stainless steel

Materials:

2 or 3mm thick stainless steel from the tip shop $8
A fair amount of stainless fittings. The final ones were not too dear. The amount I bought anticipating it would work, is amazing. (I'm sure the local hardware now see me as competition with the amount of fittings I now have.
Marine carpet scrap I was given by the local trimmers (Thanks guys!)
LED self adhesive light strip $20 approx
12v dimmer

Click on pictures to enlarge. Some pictures may be too dark to make sense on eg tapatalk.

This is the finished product.




A full length hinge was used to strengthen the table, instead of glueing a backing or bracing on.




Put a twist or half twist in the supporting cable so the cable twists in as it folds up.




The table folded up.




Closeup of the fittings used to support the table. This part caused me much thought and trouble. When I initially planned it in my head, I needed to see it before going further. When I actually got this far, I found several shortcomings in the work so far. I knew I wanted to suspend it on a cable, but how? How to keep it up when folded? Spent quite a while browsing online marine shops, google images etc. Finally went to the local show, and someone was selling stainless steel bits. I could wander, fit bits together etc.




Side view of table folded. Sorry about the not-rotated pic. The edge was rolled - a tricky task. If you choose stainless steel, it is hard to work without a workshop. The rolled edge gives it a bit more strength.




To best view this pic, make sure no-one is looking, then tilt your head to the side. A daytime view of the LED strip. Quite unobtrusive.




Here is the LED switch and dimmer knob -off. The dimmer came with it's own box, the knob on the box. I opened the box, and there was enough length in the ribbon cable to cable tie the box near the variable resister (unseen part of the knob) mounted near the switch.




Here is the switch and dimmer - on. I love that switch. Ebay jobby, and it sits almost flush with the trim. The LED can be wired so it is always on, only on with the switch, or off when the switch is on. Polarity doesn't matter!




Detail of the top of the table surface and support.



Boring pic - I meant to show how dim the LEDs would go. Literally if you are really steady with your hand, you can dim them so they are visible, but don't give any usable light.





An example of how dim the LEDs go. Minimum practical lighting. If you once again turn your head on the side, and imagine the pic taken facing the end of the RH rear door.




Facing the table, with minimum practical lighting. Of course it is a bit hard to compare the pics directly. They are taken on the phone. The phone tries to make everything the same lightness. Maybe in a few weeks when I get the DSLR back up and working, and set it to manual. Maybe not - it's not a headlight comparison!




Maximum brightness.




Maximum Brightness. In this one, you can see where I have muffed some polishing I did. I have some polishing attachments for a drill. Unfortunately the fine cotton wheel was slightly out of round, and I didn't clean off the rougher polishing grit. So it roughed instead of polished!



My humble pieces of advice:

Stainless steel is hard to work with.
Wood is easy to work with, and provides easy options for support, bracing etc.
Do some browsing around for ideas/inspiration


If I was to do it again:

I would fold down the edges of the table and braze/weld the corners. The sides would allow somewhere to mount the cable support.

He won't be hard to find. He will either be on a bike forum garnering sympathy or the mail that bolts anywhere to the side next time he sees you. Probably while trying to rub bullbar marks out of his ribs.





Tipsy-tap

Not boring us at all. In fact I'm thinking of giving it a try in the gu2.8

I'm sure I will have some questions shortly.

Tipsy-tap

Not boring us at all. In fact I'm thinking of giving it a try in the gu2.8

I'm sure I will have some questions shortly.

Tipsy-tap