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dronus4x4

NADS step by step guide

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Have fitted Auber Instruments  EGT kit with probe about 60mm down stream of Turbo.

 

Am amazed how sensitive the Digital guage is and how quickly the exhaust gas temps change.

Seem to reach the 500 deg C mark when pushing past the 2700 rpm (120 to 130 km's per hour) overtaking on Great Northern highway (110 limit)

and when accelerating up a hill (4th gear). While i feel confident in being able to keep egt temps below 520 deg C with just me in the vehicle. I think it would take a lot of concentration to do so if the vehicle was loaded up

or/and towing a loaded trailor or caravan.

I have blocked the EGR but it looks like the less restrictive larger exhaust and bigger intercooler reduce average EGT temps quite considerably.

 

Thanks guys (Will have to drive like a NANNA when towing)

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Hi all

 

just wondering if anybody could help me out with this, i dont own a patrol (wish i did) instead own a nissan navara str dual cab ute. my zd30 motor craped itself at 165000km not 100% sure what went in the motor i know the turbo is definatley stuffed. to replace the motor i figured the easyiest option was to buy a jap import motor one problem but, the zd30 motor i bought is a the same sort of setup as the gu patrols zd30 with the vnt turbo the orginal zd30 out of my navara has a waste gated turbo. so my options are buy a new turbo and set up like orginaly setup motor or to do the nads mods, which i think that would work in my navi?? only things is correct me if im wrong but feed line to the needle valve comes from the air fillter resonator right? not sure if my navara has that. mine was setup so the air went threw the air fillter straight into the turbo.

 

could anyone tell me more about the air fillter resonator?? (hope its not a tech name for the airfillter box)

and any input into weather this setup would work in my navara would be great to

 

also good work dronus for the guide

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OK, your was "normal"  wasted turbo than you'll be missing the whole vacuum control for the VGT turbo charger. Air filter resonator/damper is basically reservoir like plastic box connected in to intake pipe after air cleaner leading in to suction side of the turbo charger to dampen surge noise when turbo kicks in or that's what I believe is there for so not strictly performance more for removing a resonating pulses of the turbo compressor. Remember VGT unit will spool up much faster.

 

I can't see why it wouldn't work even without the resonator, indeed you probably going to find a better spool up with VGT unit meaning more low down torque if anything. Downside could be the cost/maintenance and in your case a careful adjustments of the spool up rate and max boost so you will need to use Dawes valve as well.

I'm just curious as how the peak boost is handled with original ECU. Did you have a boost gauge installed in your old setup? If not than you might have to start fairly conservative. Also that means that your original setup didn't use MAF unit to control AFR which means even more reliance on the boost.

This could create some interesting results with ECU smoke maps. I'd make sure you have EGT gauge installed.

 

I'd give it a try, the needle valve and Dawes valve are cheaper to get than another turbo.

 

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs

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hey thanks for that info was good

i didnt have any mods done to my old motor setup cause i wasnt aware of the problems till after my motor blew and i started reading up on it. 

if i was going go with the vnt turbo set up i was going to do all the nads mods before i even thought about starting the motor, they would be cheaper than buying a new turbo like you said. i dont have a maf sensor, but i have a boost sensor. not sure what the ecu would do with the boost like you said start down low with the boost and creep it up untill the sweet spot is found with out upsetting the ecu i guess. with the dawes and needle valve set up the feed line on a diagram of the set up has the feed line going back to the air fillter resonator, so being that i dont have a resonator where could i run the feed line for the needle valve to? i had the idea of putting after the air fillter not sure if it wolud give you the same positive pressure that is needed but or if it would create a vaccum cause of the turbo sucking the air threw there.

or would a patrol air fillter unit with resonator be the go?

i wouldnt have any boost or egt figures as dronus advised to do to work with when setting the dwaes and needle valve setup.

 

also my old motor set up had no intercooler so i was going to put a front mout in as well as making a 2.5" to 3" exhaust.

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Im pretty new to the modification seen on the zd30 motor so im pretty open to any ideas or info on this, im guessing it is most likley the first time this zd30 motor setup has been attempted in a navara too.

i forgot to say aswell rumcajs that the vacum line from the vaccum pump come on the motor,  the line runs into a black canister fillter looking thing bolted just above the a/c compresor. i have seen a pic of the same one on a patrol but it was mounted on top of the motor next to the intercooler..

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I wouldn't worry about the "black canister filter thingie" that is just a vacuum reservoir if you have one that is fine but you can do without one.

Yo can run the "resonator line" from anywhere on the turbo suction line side after the air cleaner

Also you do need to "intercool" the setup for sure and indeed that is going to be a bit of gamble to get right but when you do you'll get the power and the economy and this where VGT will come in to its own with quick spool up at low revs.

Don't forget to take out/disable EGR  as well.

This should be interesting setup.

Feel free to start your own mod thread.

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs

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thanks mate

that has cleared up the things i wasnt 100% on.

I work out roughly it will cost me about $1100 to do everything, might be 300 bucks less if I tig weld up my own aluminium catch can,

wont have a fillter in it like the provent 200 but.

once i get everything, i will start the mod thread you suggested so all you guys can check it out.

thanks alot again rumcajs and dronus

 

cheers

matt

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Also does anyone know where I can get the dawes valve and needle valve from on the Sunshine Coast or do I have to order it from the sites listed.

Thanks. Natt

 

You are probably better off to get them from original sources as some who do resell them in Oz are just price gouging especially for Dawes valves. There is a number of opportunistic swines currently doing gouging/fleecing unsuspecting customers and even going that far that tacking Dawes on their Diesel chips kits as some miracle cure boost fix engine safety. Diesel Smart, Roo systems among a few, they just ripped off the whole "know how" and claiming it as their own with the price tag to match. Supplying of the shelf Diesel chip with heatshrink covered Dawes valve, some harness and EGT gauge they get from US for peanuts and charge you a fortune for the privilege, you bet it is the best thing since sliced bread/cheese whatever.

 

As for Dual Dawes without solenoid nope you can't, I thoroughly recommend going Dual Dawes with the solenoid and needle valve and Jaycar voltage switch to control the whole setup especially on 05 Di.

I've done it in stages, first Dawes only, than added needle valve and than dual Dawes with just manual switch and just recently voltage switch to automate the control but I also retained manual overide so I can decide when to have low or high boost only or both automatically controlled via throttle switch.

I wish I had done the whole shebang right away.

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs

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I know for sure that Dependable distributors have the needle valve in stock as I picked one up from them yesterday. I would suggest ringing them though to order, as an e-mail has gone unanswered from a couple of weeks back.

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I know for sure that Dependable distributors have the needle valve in stock as I picked one up from them yesterday. I would suggest ringing them though to order, as an e-mail has gone unanswered from a couple of weeks back.

Yep just make sure you use the straight barbs, not the right angle barbs. I've had a few right angle barbs block the needle valve inlet!

Good to hear you got your boost sorted mate!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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a very informitive read. I have done all of these mods to my GU3 and have had no problems as of this date. I had my Daws Valve fitted by Diesel Tech Services and they have done a very good job, it was set to a max of 17psi and very rarely gets to that limit. Although i must mention that they have installed the daws on the other  intercooler pipe (near firewall) and they also removed the butterfly inside this pipe, for what reasons i am not too sure.

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Hi Guys,

I am just wondering why everyone has installed the boost gauge in the pipe work reather than fitting it to the much thicker aluminum throttle body, looking at doing this this week. Can anyone suggest to me why not?

 

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Hi Guys,

I am just wondering why everyone has installed the boost gauge in the pipe work reather than fitting it to the much thicker aluminum throttle body, looking at doing this this week. Can anyone suggest to me why not?

 

As long as there is a room to fit one I can't see why not. Issue is, it is much easier to remove the pipe than the throttle body. That was my reasoning.

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs

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Hi All

I have a 08 CRD that is displaying all the signs of the grenade, flat spots, feels like i am towing a caravan and i have the fuel economy to match.

I have had it for 3 months now and it has 75000kms on the clock.

I have changed all the filters which made a slight difference, and i have cleaned the MAF which made a significant difference, but its still reserved and feels like something is holding it back.

I have recently ordererd a ERG blanking plate and a Dawes valve kit. Just wondering if anyone has any photos of the ERG Mod?

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CrDs can be slightly problematic with Dawes and EGR mods, some even set EGR fault code (DTCo). There are CrD out there working without Dawes and with EGR mod. It seems that they can handle/tolerate higher boost.

If you haven't done it yet, fit oil catch can and pyro first.

Cheers

post-9-0-16038700-1368778888_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rumcajs

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Thanks Rumcajs.

Still awaiting arrival of the erg plate. Will install that first and see how it goes.

Also have EGT and Boost gauges to fit too.

Will be interesting to see whats going on under the bonnet.

Thanks for the photo.

will post the results once the mods are done.

Cheers

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