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NADS step by step guide

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Are you referring to the boost gauge pipe?

What I did was drill a hole slightly smaller than the thread on the barb, apply loktite glue, and screw it in!

Hope this helps

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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Perhaps using glue will work but I'd preferred to have the fitting silver soldered in to the pipe that way there is no way it will ever come off. The best way is to have 1/4 gas to 1/8 gas adaptor fitting soldered there and than you have a point from which you can use whatever you need, be it the elbow, T-ee or straight fitting or plug if not in use.

Cheers

PS: No, that is not a glue to use. It is not a glue it just a thread locker and relies on more than just single thread (in this case cause the pipe is not that thick) to hold the threaded section form loosening up.

Edited by Rumcajs

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Hi all, my first post

I came upon this site during a search for NADS help. I think this is the best talk through and Pics I came across. Its what I used for reference on my fit out.

Over the last few months I have been fitting the bits required. I have had the boost gauge and Catch Can on for a while as well as a blocked EGR for a few years with the VNT screw backed off slightly to compensate. I had been having limp mode issues. An EGT gauge is mounted but not fitted yet, waiting for a new exhaust.

On a recent desert trip the maximum boost achieved was 12psi, on that trip I developed a leak in my long range main tank. While it was down for repairs I fitted the Dawes Valve and Needle Valve, not ideal and as you recommend testing at each stage.

To the reason for my post.

I have next to no boost pressure. I am sure the plumbing is all correct, checked so many times I can see the layout in my sleep.

Following the instructions, closing the needle valve [ no boost ] open slightly and actuator arm starts to move, open more and the arm moves more. So as instructions state when arm moves turn back till it rests on the stop, in my situation that is the closed position.

As stated, if less than 15psi adjust Dawes Valve by unscrewing [ backing off ] did this without result. Next stretch spring a tad, If I stretch it any more it will be a piece of wire. Really I have stretched it more that should be needed. Still no boost.

After completing the NADS installation my gauge was showing a slight vacuum.

After setting the needle valve, 0 boost

After stretching the Dawes spring and it backed right off it is showing 3psi at 3000rpm

I have checked for leaks, hoses fittings and inter-cooler with soapy water, Vacuum seems sufficient, VNT arm seems to move freely,

Something is seriously wrong and I have run out of ideas at the moment.

I was going to delete this post as I may have an idea to check tomorrow

My thought is, if as instructions say, that if 15psi cant be achieved unscrew the Dawes valve 1/4 turn at a time, if still not reaching 15psi then stretch the spring a tad.

Unscrewing relaxes spring pressure on the valve , so why would you stretch the spring, it will only increase that pressure,

If anyone can clarify this or has and info it would be great.

Thanks

John

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Howdy john sorry for the late reply.

Yes you are heading in the right direction.

I might also suggest that the next time you have the spring out that you inspect the ball bearing and the seat in the Dawes. I've heard similar stories and people have found impurities in there.

I'm Hoping that when you backed the vent off you didn't adjust the length of the rod, just the stop on top?

Just going to read back over your post to sked if I missed anything else

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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I'm just picturing the cases valve and trying to think of the correct words to use to describe which bits need lengthening.. I remember the first time I did this I was turning the wrong bit..

If your gauge is reading a vacuum you either have it plumbed into the wrong place, or the gauge is faulty.

Close (or remove) the needle valve and see what that does also. Does it chug ?

Cheers

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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Thanks for the informative guide. Its been a great help as I have just purchased my first 4wd. A 2004 guIII zd30 patrol, and NADS is the first thing I'm looking to do to it. However I was wondering if there are any changes in the modifications needed between gu series?

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There is a suggestion that some NADS mods like fiddling with the stop screw on the VGT actuator is more beneficial on auto transmissions than on manual units for example.

Also GU IV series have slightly different vacuum rate (read higher) than previous version so setting the Dawes valve is slightly more complicated.

I'm not happy with my setup when it comes to single needle and Dawes combo as it seems to increase fuel consumption at cruising speeds (100 -110 km/h) so actually fitting dual stage boost solenoid and another Dawes is on the cards (I've been waiting for 6 weeks now for the delivery) so I can reduce the boost level at cruising stage and still have ability to get power when needed. Currently I'm running a unhappy medium of a sort that is, it is sweet around town and up to 80 km/h but who wants to cruise like that all day so I'm dreading open roads so to speak.

Cheers

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Can someone tell me ...

I have a GUIV without full nads. I have gauges, ecu talk, pro vent can fitted. I have a egr plate and Dawes and needle valve ready to fit.

I have owned the car for just over 12 months, it has 215,000km on it. In my time I have only seen 4 boost spikes that tripped the alarm on my gauge. 2 times in 3 days this week. I'm a little concerned!

I'm approved to buy a chip it chip and exhaust.

My question is, is it best to fit the Dawes and needle with the chip or will the chip control all of these variables anyway? And the blanking plate for Egr is still a must I assume?

Sent from my iPhone using the hunt and peck method of typing!

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If you fit EGR plate than Dawes valve is a must and EGR is not beneficial to your engine. Taking control of VGT(variable geometry turbo) from engine ECU (via needle valve) will improve turbo spool up rate,remove turbo lag and correct chaotic boost curve/rise to more predictable and linear curve/rise which definately improves performance.

Unfortunately there seems to be side effect on GU IV doing this, fuel economy will suffer slightly when cruising on the highway.

The way to correct it, is to fit dual Dawes with 2 stage boost solenoid to have two settings, low (around 8 psi) for economy and cruising and high 14-16 psi for power/hills climbing. The 2 stage solenoid can be controlled manually or the control can be automated via throttle pedal position and additional relay/trigger so it can be set and forget and have no effect on EGTs especially if pressing the the accelerator too much in lower boost mode.

Diesel chip will not control the above it will control/mod the fuelling rate which will affect the settings of the Dawes and needle valve so if fitting those prior chip installation the retune process might be required after the chip fitment. These things can complement each other. TBH I'm a little uneasy on installing a chip on the grenade.

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs

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Just fitted my Dawes & needle valve, plus blocked my egr, now only on first start up cold,when driving off the turbo whistles quite loudly for the first 2 minutes. Any ideas??

I have beaudesert exhaust & diesel chip if that makes a difference

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Can someone tell me ...

I have a GUIV without full nads. I have gauges, ecu talk, pro vent can fitted. I have a egr plate and Dawes and needle valve ready to fit.

I have owned the car for just over 12 months, it has 215,000km on it. In my time I have only seen 4 boost spikes that tripped the alarm on my gauge. 2 times in 3 days this week. I'm a little concerned!

I'm approved to buy a chip it chip and exhaust.

My question is, is it best to fit the Dawes and needle with the chip or will the chip control all of these variables anyway? And the blanking plate for Egr is still a must I assume?

Sent from my iPhone using the hunt and peck method of typing!

 

My personal opinion is to do the exhaust but leave the chip out. Once you do the exhaust you will notice an improvement anyway and might not want the chip. IMHO chips are not the best things for these engines, some people flame me for that but putting more fuel into an engine without doing the other mods first isnt a good thing.

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I have also just put in an ASE HPD intercooler.

I must say the reduction in EGT, and power increase is impressive. These have an underslung 9" thermo fan.

If anyone wants my old one, PM me - even has a custom fan and shroud, and all the pipes (including boost gauge spike)

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IMG_20121215_135119.jpg

IMG_20121215_135500.jpg

 

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Question regarding the needle valve, Is this just a standard boost bleed valve? Ie you common turbosmart T??

 

Howdy,

 

I have seen people use all kinds of needle valves but the only one that has consistently given consistant results are the Italian needle valves from dependable distributors.

 

That's not to say there isn't others which are better, but so far I haven't seen one.

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Question regarding the needle valve, Is this just a standard boost bleed valve? Ie you common turbosmart T??

Nope it isn't, these valves don't bleed excess boost pressure they vary the vacuum rate applied to VNT actuator.

Cheers

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Will be installing EGT guage kit (Auberins) when it arrives from the States. {GU - CRD - 2008}

 

From the previous comments it appears that ideally you would not want to go above 450C. Would that be the general view?

 

As you can see i am a newbie but just want to say i have learned a lot of usefull info since following some of the posts. Thanks.

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I try to keep it under 500°C but that's for Di. CrD units seems to able to survive at much higher temps (around 600-700°C) but I'd considered that dangerous and not beneficial to the engine. So general consensus would be to keep it up 500° C. Play it safe. You'll be surprised how quickly the EGTs can raise to those levels.

Cheers

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