Very nice..

And I'm guessing you will be happy Tim untill you work out the Ltrs/100k's.. Lol

Edited May 31, 201213 yr by BigGQWesty

Lets see washed it and give it a quick rub over with 1800 wet and dry to remove over spray and road grime, then polished it, gave the tray a touch up with some fresh paint, adjusted my steering to center and cleaned the inside out (lots of beer bottle on the passenger floor from last camping trip)

Those cree bulbs i got are efin awesome, hard to take a pic. as the flash goes off!!!!!! For $10 buks, you will love them, its like having a spotty when reversing. :)

Edited June 2, 201213 yr by GQ Beast

^ x2 read about here , fitted them, for ten bucks ,great upgrade.

Had a new widescreen installed threw insurance and got screwed..

Turns out CGU don't cover the seal of the window.. WTF.. It's like the most important part...

So $110 later.. I got a new windscreen... Bit of a downer on a great day..

Hard wired the rear bar lights.. I've always had issue with the genuine plugs so hopefully this solves the issue..

Started building sliders today

How can I up load pics from iPhone or iPad?

Panhard rod bushes and new fan belt idler ordered.. Fingers crossed there here by the weekend..

One in, one to go..

Fitted a electric to the front of the radiator thinking it would help the clutch fan then doing low speed 4wding, seems it was a waste of time it feels like it hinders the airflow when idling in the carport so I don't think it's going to help.

Installed new one piece rear windows.. Look smick as..

Build thread

Edited August 20, 201213 yr by BigGQWesty

Found out the old girls worth $7500...

F-ing stocked

Old, big chunky low lying alloy side step

Now gone and looks a lot higher...

Going to build slider / scrub bars.

So what the hell has everyone been doing??

I've added my 1" body lift, and have now lost low range due to it hitting the body. So now I have to remove the gear box spacers and add some engine mount spacers to lift it all back up to suit.

Also made my rear work light.,

And priced up my side step / sliders..

Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...

Edited October 7, 201213 yr by BigGQWesty

Finally put my winch back together after strengthening my tie rod mounts after snapping them off in a bog hole

and a full strip down rebuild and made new tie rods. not all today but put it together today finally

Popped the hood. Ran some subi top end cleaner threw it.. Closed hood..

And noticed both rear tyres have slow leaks.. just add that to the list...

Hopefully will be removing front sway bar to.. Will report on drivability after..

Kallen Westbrook

Owner of

Westy's Accessories

chassi lubrication right down to graphite in locks and silicone spray on the door weather striping....

and my klunk is still there

Is it your sway bar clunking on the radius arms?

Kallen Westbrook

Owner of

Westy's Accessories

whats a sway bar......actually im getting the rear one put back on with sudsos mod.

i thought it was a coil hat rubber at front but no luck. also wet down body mounts still get a knock.

now im thinking its from the rear. ive replaced or checked all bushes.

maybe diff backlash???

intermitent knock is shitting me. does it sometimes over bumps, and sometimes on accerleration.??? but cant pin it down.

hence the chassie lube. thought it could be unis or slip joint.

got me stumped.might go back through the mannual and look at other possibilities

power steering flush. put 5lts through it till it went from black to red... maybe first p/s change in 220,000.

fuel,oil,air and about to start tranny flush with transmax z

whats a sway bar......actually im getting the rear one put back on with sudsos mod.

i thought it was a coil hat rubber at front but no luck. also wet down body mounts still get a knock.

now im thinking its from the rear. ive replaced or checked all bushes.

maybe diff backlash???

intermitent knock is shitting me. does it sometimes over bumps, and sometimes on accerleration.??? but cant pin it down.

hence the chassie lube. thought it could be unis or slip joint.

got me stumped.might go back through the mannual and look at other possibilities

I get the same thing.. I have been told that the aftermarket castor correction bushes are slightly thinner than the Nissan ones.

Mine has had the clunk ever since fitting the OME correction bushes.

So I intend on greasing the lot, and trying. It only clunks when RH compresses..

Kallen Westbrook

Owner of

Westy's Accessories

Fixed the clunk coming from front axil, removed front sway bar..

Then went out and flexed up the new setup..

With rear engaged.

And factory rear disconnected.

Kallen Westbrook

Owner of

Westy's Accessories

Today was a productive day..

Installed some sound deadener (poly quilt filling) in the rear doors.. This enhances the bass to nearly sub quality, and eliminates the sound heard outside..

Then ran my wire to the rear for my work light, and installed a fuse box for the fridge, spotties and work light..

Nice and clean now

Just a single positive wire to the fuse box, which runs a buzz bar threw the middle and the out either side..

Very neat and good for 50A continuous..

Kallen Westbrook

Owner of

Westy's Accessories

Fitted an air scoop type thing to direct airflow over the front of my canopy, blocked the egr and watched the boost spike to 25+psi then disconected the battery to reset the ecu. If that doesn't fix the boost I will have to adjust the vnt screw.

OOOOOPS, wrong thread. Meant to post in GU lol

Edited November 11, 201213 yr by Bogmeister

Popped the hood. Ran some subi top end cleaner threw it.. Closed hood..

And noticed both rear tyres have slow leaks.. just add that to the list...

Hopefully will be removing front sway bar to.. Will report on drivability after..

Kallen Westbrook

Owner of

Westy's Accessories

Try some of that green tyre seal stuff from supercrap. I used it in my muddies as they all had slow leaks when I bought them (second hand). Fixed the problem and should stop punctures.