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Welder


Tonka
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First one is HEAPS Better.

6 power settings instead of 4. To me, that's a big advantage because the more power settings the better you can match the output to the job you are doing.

Also uses the Binzel torch Fittings which are a standard and easy and cheap to get. Much better than the typical chinese who flung Dung fittings.

180 A Vs 120. You'll probably rarely use the thing flat out if your doing home type stuff however having the extra amps would give you a better duty cycle and mean one machine was cruising where the other one was working up a sweat.

Perhaps the biggest tell tale to me is the weight. 26.5 Vs 38 Kg. Mates and I say ALWAYS buy tools and electronics by weight.

In this case I would suspect that the first machine has Aluminium windings where the other one has the much more robust ( and heavier) copper windings. That one point alone would win the case for the first machine for me.

One thing you will have to do with the first one is either change the power plug or file down the earth pin if you don't have a 15A outlet.

As long as you don't go over about 140A, You'll be fine. I have a 150A machine and The only time I took it that High was to weld a towbar Tounge and that was probably a bit hot anyway.

In this case, the cheaper is definately the better machine.

In fact, the other one is a piece of crap in comparison and probably pretty crappy anyway.

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Oh dear, I'll get lambasted by the sparkys and you'll get a whole heap of pedantic safety warnings but anyway....

15a Plugs have a bigger earth pin to prevent them being plugged into standard 10 A sockets.

The earth pin is wider which makes it nice and easy to file it back to the 10A size or you can just change it.

Alternately you can fit a 10A plug.

Now pratical and realistic practice aside from rules and regulations and gloom and doom, unless you have the machine right cranked up, it will never draw 15A anyway. I'd say most of the setting I use on my machine wouldn't have it drawing 5a.

The wiring on a 10A plug is rated to 15A but that is for all the circuit. You could run your 15A welder off that circuit at full tilt with complete safety PROVIDING you weren't running anything else at the same time.

The circuits are 15a TOTAL so if you are using all your allowance in one go, that's it. It's the same with anything. You can't run the clothes dryer and the Iron and the washing machine off the same circuit ( even though they are different powerpoints) becaue you'll pop the fuse or the breaker.

Now if - I - ever had the need to run 15a appliances off a 10 a point ( Not that I ever would because that would be unsafe and I'd cop petty grief from safety zealots :rolleyes: ) what I would do is simply plug the appliance into a 10A powerboard that had its own circuit breaker. That way if I was sucking too much juice for the outlet, the board would pop before the main house fuse or breaker did.

Again, pratical application wise, there is no chance of you causing any situation if you use your 15a welder on a 10A circuit with nothing else in use on the circuit. The wiring is actually rated for 15A or more, and the outlet and the plug will take 15 A as well. as soon as you do cause an overload, the fuse or the breaker on you main board will go which is it's function to protect the rest of the wiring.

Sorry for the long explaination but I wanted to clarify a few things before the saftey Nazi's jumped in.

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Ok.. A couple of things to consider??

What are you welding? 6mm plate can be welded with a 130amp welder.. 180 is pushing 10mm plate..

Next is your power situation.. Do you have a good 15amp supply?? If not your restricted to a 130-140 amp welder..

Stick to a brand name though.. BOC do a nice little compact stick welder. 130a and smooth...

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Reefmagnet

Yep.. That's how they work. You weld about that make and the welder will only draw 10A.. Crank it to 150+ it pop..

Tonka

I've just spent the afternoon rebuilding and hard facing a 12mm chute for a timber chipper using a 130A BOC stick welder..

Like I said, buy decent and buy it once.. Doesn't need to be extreme amperage.. Just quality..

EDIT.. Has just clicked later in the thread that were talking mig welders, not stick..

My bad...

Edited by BigGQWesty
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Sorry but I thought you were talking stick welders.. My bad..

But what I have said still stands.. Your power supply is vital. And a 180-200 mig is a nice little welder..

But quality is s must.. CIG, WIA, BOC...

Spend it right, spend it right..

Edited by BigGQWesty
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If you go down the route of filing the plug, dont do it on the machine. (warranty)

Buy a 15amp lead and file that down.

Plus it comes in handy when you take it to a mates house to help out and they don't have 15amp.

Its also handy having the lead for my van when setup at friends houses.

Disclosure- I do not condone the above mentioned activities........The above mentioned points are for intellectual purposes only.........

Edited by gottheshits
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Had to relent and let the power company finally fit their smart meter after the third attampt recently and found something out in the process.

Apparently the fuse holder (where the cable from the street joins the cable from the house on the eaves) is shot, probably from old age and corrosion, the fuse crumbled away when he went to remove it prior to starting work.

Now he tells me that it would be dangerous to use a welder until I have it replaced as I could end up with a hot spot there and real prospect of a fire starting in the eaves.

This advice may just be a lifesaver, but the cost involved is something I am yet to get to the bottom of.

Apparently I need an Electrician to carry out the work ( OK I gathered that much) I need a truck from the power company to disconnect power at the pole in the street, (hourly rate possibly $500+), and on top of that I need an inspector present as well ($$$)

All up at least $1,000, which was a bit of a jaw dropper at the time, but I respect that it will need to be done, I just need to get some firm pricing on it all.

I was surprised to hear that in some coastal areas they had experienced nearly 100% need for this to be done in the older areas of towns.

Meanwhile I have a new mig welder in the shed that I haven't been game to use...

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Are you in QLD mate? I'm an electrical contractor, i can help you out.

In QLD it is free to have the aerial line to your house upgraded, as long as you have had an electrical contractor upgrade from the "point of attachement" back to your switchboard.

If your switchboard is an old piece of junk, it would cost you between $1200-1500 to have it completely upgraded. Thats new everything, box, safety switches, new 16mm mains cable, Everything! Once thats completed energex will come out and upgrade the aerial mains for free.

If your switchboard is in good condition and its just the mains box that needs to be changed. It should cost under $500 to get someone out to replace that, then energex will replace the aerial mains.

hope this helps

Edited by Dye-04
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Had to relent and let the power company finally fit their smart meter after the third attampt recently and found something out in the process.

Apparently the fuse holder (where the cable from the street joins the cable from the house on the eaves) is shot, probably from old age and corrosion, the fuse crumbled away when he went to remove it prior to starting work.

Now he tells me that it would be dangerous to use a welder until I have it replaced as I could end up with a hot spot there and real prospect of a fire starting in the eaves.

This advice may just be a lifesaver, but the cost involved is something I am yet to get to the bottom of.

Apparently I need an Electrician to carry out the work ( OK I gathered that much) I need a truck from the power company to disconnect power at the pole in the street, (hourly rate possibly $500+), and on top of that I need an inspector present as well ($$$)

All up at least $1,000, which was a bit of a jaw dropper at the time, but I respect that it will need to be done, I just need to get some firm pricing on it all.

I was surprised to hear that in some coastal areas they had experienced nearly 100% need for this to be done in the older areas of towns.

Meanwhile I have a new mig welder in the shed that I haven't been game to use...

I thought all the power company had to do was pull the fuse at the power pole. Long pole - twist - jobs done. 2 minutes. When we had the floods on last year we watched them going up the street putting them back in while we were waiting our turn.

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Are you in QLD mate? I'm an electrical contractor, i can help you out.

In QLD it is free to have the aerial line to your house upgraded, as long as you have had an electrical contractor upgrade from the "point of attachement" back to your switchboard.

If your switchboard is an old piece of junk, it would cost you between $1200-1500 to have it completely upgraded. Thats new everything, box, safety switches, new 16mm mains cable, Everything! Once thats completed energex will come out and upgrade the aerial mains for free.

If your switchboard is in good condition and its just the mains box that needs to be changed. It should cost under $500 to get someone out to replace that, then energex will replace the aerial mains.

hope this helps

I'm in Vic thanks all the same and apparently it's only the fuse holder where the cable attachs to the house, beneath the guttering, that needs replacing.

The cable from the pole was replaced several years ago now and you are corrrect that was a free service as it is owned by the power company but anything attached to that is my responsibility.

Edited by jamus
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I thought all the power company had to do was pull the fuse at the power pole. Long pole - twist - jobs done. 2 minutes. When we had the floods on last year we watched them going up the street putting them back in while we were waiting our turn.

I think we are talking minimum call out fee, privatisation sucks sometimes, user pays is the name of the game...

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