skid

The bonnet protector is almost exactly level with the tubing on the bull bar, so hopefully wont make any difference... Plus my EGT's havent changed....

Put new panic handles in, the drivers side didn't have one, so got a pair from the wreckers and replaced the sagging passenger one and added one for the drivers side. Also picked up a bonnet protector and installed it as the screws were already there...

What manual do you have that has all this info, both my workshop manuals one by Max Ellery and the other a Haynes dont have details like you post...

I made up my own wiring harness, and by passe anything and everything that wasn't essential, and now everything is working fine, Thank you for your suggestions and info....

Could i not bypass the cornering lamp control unit as we font have cornering lamps on patrols here?

Urgent help needed with indicators problem, this morning when I hoped in my 2000 GU to head off to a job an hour and a half drive away, I noticed that my right hand indicator wasn't working, I didn't think much of it and thought I'd fix the problem this evening, but about 10K down the road the left hand side indicator stopped working also, "no indicators, and no blinking lights on the dash", so I thought it must be a fuse or something, when I got on site I noticed that when I armed my alarm, ALL indicators flashed. We had about 30 minutes before workers arrived, I hoped i my car with a few minutes to kill and discovered my left hand indicators were working again, and so where my hazzard lights. When I had breaks through out the day I would call my Auto electrician and ask questions, he got me to try turning my hazzards on and off in quick repartition for a minute thinking it was a dirty contact in the flasher unit, Called him a few times during the day, told him that when I put my left hand indicator on I could hear a click behind the dash beneath where the hazard switch is, and also heard a brief click when I turned the indicators to the right hand side but no lights. he ended up saying he couldn't really tell unless he were to look him self but was almost sure the indicator switch and stalk on the steering column was at faulty, I rand around a few wreckers and found one that had the indicator switch and stalk assembly so got my wife to go pick it up as I wouldn't be back in time to get to the wreckers before they closed. When leaving the site at 5 as I pulled out of their driveway, I indicated left, and the light worked but with in a hundred yards left stopped working again. I got home and pulled my steering column apart and put the replacement assembly in, turned ignition on, left indicator worked but not the right. Re installed my original, but am not expecting a refund from the wreckers...Checked fuses etc, all appear working, disconnected the flasher relay and noticed when I turned left indicator on could still hear a click behind the dash, and a slighly less loud click when turn to right. Took it for a several K drive this evening and the left indicator now SEEMs to be working and not cutting out like it did within in minutes of leaving the site, but right one still dead. I know my alarm system has its own relay to flash my indicators when arming or disarming, But am interested in is there an extra relay or the like behind the dash?. reading my workshop manuals it looks like a major job just to pull out the hazard switch. What coild be causing the extra click when manipulating the indicator stalk? if someone can shed some light on what the problem could be or get me looking at the situation from a different angle, that would be awesome. I am ruling out the indicator switch and stalk as I find it hard to believe 2 would result in the same problem This is doing my head in and I need to get it resolved asap

How much and were do I get a pair from?.

Just tried shorting the wires on the water in fuel circuit but the engine light came on not the water in fuel light, so they must have stuffed something up when they did the conversion from a zd30 to a td42, but at least I have some form of light on the dash coming on, engine light is better than nothing.....

Just tried shorting the wires as you did but the engine light came on not the water in fuel light, so they must have stuffed something up when they did the conversion, but at least I have some form of light on the dash coming on, engine light is better than nothing.....

Re the Water in fuel detector.I have a 2000 GU which was originally a zd30 but had a TD42 transplant. Although there are wires attached to the fuel filter at the bottom, I've yet to see the water in fuel light appear on the dash which the owners manual says should briefly light up, Is there a way I can test to see if it is actually working, if so how?

Can you show me on the above schematic where I would install that relay?

thats probably where part of my problem is, I dont have an ECU

How have you hacked the glow plugs control system, glow light is on for duration of glow plugs being powered?

My 2000 GU was originally a zd30, but previous owners converted it to a TD42 using a silver top out of a 1990 GQ, in the morning the glow plug light on the dash will light up for 5 seconds +, but after it has warmed up when I turn the ignition on the light on the dash will only stay on for a second if I'm lucky. Do not have any problems starting it, but previous owners said not to worry about the light and just leave ignition on until I get my seat belt on and it should be right to crank. can anyone give me any idea or direction in what I can do to resolve the light on the dash performing correctly.. Thanks in advance

Hema 7 for off road maps, got the same street maps on the hema7 and on the head unit...

Updated head unit, Updated maps on Hema 7, Installed 3 gauge pillar pod, relocated trailer plug into rear bar as it kept bending when 4wding, Wired up reversing lights, Now just need to wire in a manual switch to use them as work lights Ran new wire to bypass my 4wd light not working properly...

Went 4wding for the first time in this rig and after a couple of mumps the 4wd light started to work, and continued for the rest of the day, next morning was back to no 4wd light, had to go and find the track I broke my tail light on to find a bit that fell off my rear bar, 4wd light started working again, where under the car is the connector for the 4wd switch, i can trace it up the side of the transfer case but that's as far as I can follow it, if someone can tell me where the connector is I'll give it a good clean out with contact cleaner, and make sure its a firm fit.. Am assuming the fact that after some bumps when 4wding and the light starts to work it must be a back connection or something.. any advise appreciated...

There was a guy on one of these forums who had 2 spare 4wd switches for a GU after he made a working transfer case out of the 3, he offered me the switches a couple of weeks ago but I haven't heard back from him, if you know him or if you are him please PM me I really need to get the on dash light working... Cheers

Where did you get the front recover points from as I see how they are mounted and want a pair like that for my series 2 GU as the ones I took off my GQ means I have to take the bull bar off again to get captive nuts or some thing into the passenger side chassis... Installed winch into bullbar Installed rock sliders Installed aftermarket tail lights that work to replace the dumby ones Installed Steel MMC rear bar Installed alarm system Installed light bar on bullbar I'm buggered now so time for bed....

By passed everything as you said, for first drive sinking the boot in it coughed wrc for the first hundred yards, think that might have been a little air, then doing a large lap of the block can easily rev it out to 3200RPM, have now put everything back together so primary filter then lift pump then factory filter. So it looks like my problem might have been a clogged factory filter to start with.. Wasn't game to push it too hard only revved up to 3200RPM but felt like I could push it further... thanks for the suggestion, have not got around to checking if there is a thimble filter in the actual pump. will get around to it during the week...

How much do the racor cost?

Mine looks like type 1 also, cant beleive how much difference this 30 dollar lift pump has made...

Will put a quality pump on when funds allow Mine is a TD42 engine its self is a 1990 silvertop So old school

Took it for a run and for first K or so didn't notice any difference, then after that freely rev's past 3K, will see if its just my imagination or not in time, but it seems the little pumps is doing something....

Bought a little pump today and mounted it between the 2 filters, will see if that helps.. 4-9 Psi 100 LPH Fuel pump Petrol Diesel Ethanol Bio Diesel