Bogmeister

They call this "child proof" lol

Yeah, during traffic control for a breakdown/emergency stop, lights and signs must be functioning. Headlights must be on low beam, rotators must be 55w halogen, so must the wig wag lights. I also run various chargers, fridges, inverter, kick arse stereo,gps,etc. Oh yeah......and for the heater in winter . Driving involves pushing a roof mounted sign 600mm by 1200mm. The regs state that the sign can be tilted no more than 200mm backwards for aerodynamics. It must have maximum visibility. Just another PITA as far as I am concerned and the Police are usualy pretty cool with pilots. Transport coppers (RTA) on the other hand, treat us as well as they treat truck drivers

Devils own water injection calculator recommends 3.3GPH nozzle, that sounds a bit large to me. But again, I am only guessing. Sometimes a pilot car will spend an hour or two idling, a few hours at 80kmh or a few hours sitting on 120 kmh. It all depends on the load, driver, terrain, brake downs, traffic etc.

I don't want water pumping in all the time, only when the motor is working hard enough to bring the EGTs up. 9 psi of boost is only a guess, I might raise or lower the switch point as needed. Have you started on your system Westy?

OK. I am ready to start putting my system together. It will inject just before the inlet to the motor. What pump would you recommend Glort?? Would this do? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230711345436?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3318wt_1163 I plan to run a 10 or 20 liter tank mounted where the rear seats used to be and a pressure switch as pictured above. YEP......Shes gunna be a big buck system . With the pressure set to turn it on at about 9 psi, I should get a fair distance before I need to refill. I often do up to 1000km per day and don't want to carry spare water/meth mix or have to fill up with bore water.

Im glad you guys understand me. Soooooooooooo many people believe in the this new age shite lol

Thanks for the tips on law. I still have very little interest in being a part of any society.............Let alone the rest of the states. I am actually thinking of moving back to Katherine so I can call myself a "Territoooooorian" again. I will put the little bit of rubber around the edge of the scoop, just so it looks like I care about people that take the trip to the top of my bonnet. My first question would be WTF are they doing there in the first place??????? I will also do the sphere thing. The best part about my scoop is that It doesn't look that high. the 60mm height looks a little low to what I would have done if I didn't have to escort loads with Police on a regular basis.

Glort. 60mm to the top of the opening. Thanks for that Rumcajs. I dint know if the rules are the same in Qld or not?

OK, I did about 30km and found that my egts are down about 20c across the board and drop a bit quicker than they used to. I will put a deflector at the front of the I/c and brace the inside lip to stop it vibrating. I will also experiment with the rubber shroud that the factory fitted underneath and keep you updated.

I just found out the hard way that you cant buy spray putty or bog in Oakey on a Saturday morning :-(. I have some pinch mold left over that I might put across the inlet. I also plan to put some stainless fly screen underneath to stop rocks etc. Hitting my IC. How ever, I painted it with blemishes and all but will putty and repaint at a later date. So far it has cost me $48. I did a few measurements and the new one is nearly 3 times the size at the inlet than the standard one. Once the silastic dries I cant wait to do a few Ks and measure the difference.

Mine used to stay locked in or lock themselves in and click at random times. I have manual ones now.

Another option would be get a set of stamps and destroy the numbers on your old body after you put those numbers on the new one. I don't know much about the legalities of doing this but it would work.

I looked at the price of GU bonnet scoops and just cant justify spending that much on a model specific jobbie . A mate of mine has a sheet metal bender so I grabbed a bit of thin zincalume (.8 or .9) and started bending. The project should be finished in the next week or so when I shape the bottom a little and find some pinch mold rubber to go around the bottom. I got a colour matched pressure pack made up for $25 or so. The end product will be body colour with black pinch molding.

I looked at all the fuses at the time and none were blown. The wires all seemed ok but as soon as I put power to the sensor wire, the dash lights went out. I then ran another wire from the wiper blue wire. Since I started this thread I re ran the wire and sourced power from the heater motor wire at the fuse box. All is well again.

I couldn't find a blown fuse anywhere. Where is it?

I know mine is a bit glazed ATM from idling alot at work on black fuel. I normally use http://www.costeffective.com.au/show_product.php?ItemId=25. It works but is hell expensive. It may be a few weeks before I get my WI up and running but I will post the results.

Is water injection any good for removing glazing on bores? Pilot cars sometimes spend a bit of time idling and start glazing up. Blackdiesel probably doesn't help either.

The obvious is sometimes the killer.I once heard of a guy that rebiult an old Jag with a sweet 350 Chev in it. He replaced just about everything.........................Except the earth lead from the motor to the body. They reckon it cranked over for about 2 seconds before the throttle cable turned into a thousand bits of red hot shrapnel, some of which are still in orbit over Sydney lol

BigGQwesty Have a look here for nozzles http://www.alcohol-i...m/en/49-nozzles. $20 or so sounds ok.

Good thing my step father drives a falcon. I'm sure he wont miss a little bottle like that :-)

Hey Glort, how do you think a 3.0 would go with the bunnings/pope nozzle and VDO water pump after the turbo?

Even the dog loves it lol

Yep. I will start with that too. I was curious about the actual methanol. Where would you buy it?

Holy crap x 2. That's awesome. I would like some torque below 2000rpm but I would be happy with just a clean motor. How much is meth and where do i get some?

I get a very fine, rock hard, sticky .........Stuff???? (for want of a better word) out of the fuge that I have to scrape out with a screw driver. Even after it has been through the bag filter 20 or 30 times I also ran a two drum set up for a while with a dropper between the drums, to help the heavy stuff fall to the bottom of an old gas bottle. It didn't seem to get any more sludge out and I couldn't stop the c**t of a thing from leaking. So the single drum setup is back in action again. I saw some of those white 1000 liter tote things for sale the other week for $50. I want to mount one in my trailer for picking up oil and one in my yard to settle the mix. I add the petrol before I run the mix through the fuge. I found that my power bill jumped a fair bit when I heated the oil with the band heater and don't trust my oil heater under the drum. Heating the oil didn't seem to remove as much sludge as petrol either. So I pretty much gave the heating away. Settling is the best for removing crap, especially with the petrol added. The fuge seems to create very little heat and makes no difference to the oil temp. Why do you say it might explode? Most of my oil comes from local transport company's and I have been surprised how little water I have got from the drums I pick up. If you are after some oil I spotted about 7000 liters the other day and it's been sitting for years, so it will be nicely settled. The only prob is that its about 100km away with a mountain range in between. I need to fit brakes to my trailer and get it registered before I can go get it :-{ I might look into cracking some more as the Patrol may well end up being my main pilot car for a while with a D22 Navara as back up. I will need a reliable brew that is not costing me $1.55pl. Diesel was $2.20 at Innaminka a few weeks ago FFS. Lucky I didnt have to buy any :-) I will have a look at the WI vid now