geeyoutoo

Well, as my sig says I'm another Sunny Coast member (not many of us in comparison to Goldy) if anyone has an issue they think I can help with, drop us a line.

I have my alarm set at 10.5v, it was dropping to 9.5v the last few days, the extra cold wasn't helping but it shouldn't get that low. You should knock off any flash charge prior to load testing.

Well my ECUTalk has served me well again, the vehicle has been starting fine but the low voltage alarm has been going off recently so I went and had it load tested and "FAIL", so new battery and back to square one. Batteries don't give you much warning anymore, not like the old days.

That is pretty bloody good, do you know how much error you have in the odometer? I have about 1.5% so I don't bother factoring it into my calcs for 1 decimal point.

Ordered some spares from Nizzbits. Wow, over what distance was that accumulated? initially that looks like a lot of oil, I now get around 40ml per 5000k which is the range I have settled on as a checking distance even though I don't change the oil until 10,000k.

Tonight Tonight - Smashing Pumpkins

Beautiful - Gordon Lightfoot

I use CRC CO Contact Cleaner and it works extremely well for me, have used it for a number of years with absolutely no side effects, I clean the MAF every 10,000k. So my advice would be to use the one that is the cheapest between the above and a specialist cleaner. My first MAF lasted 100,000 or so before dying (never cleaned), my current MAF has 120,000+k on it and it is regularly cleaned.

Beautiful Noise - Niel Diamond

Tweaked VNT back just a tad, did a drive to Pomona and it feels a little snappier and still no limp, very close to my target now I think.

No, I am. Seriously, there appears to be a huge slowdown occurring here with threads often going up to 24 hours without comment/reply, I did not want Patrol 4x4 to fail (and it has come through with flying colours) and I did join this forum as a safety mechanism but now this one seems to be in some danger and that would be sad as well.

You'll be a Woman Soon - Niel Diamond

Have been playing with the VNT again and have gotten it down to 20 minutes start to finish, so it's not hard. But I was reminded of point I meant to write up previously but didn't fully explain. There are several ways of adjusting the VNT, some don't require the removal of the vacuum diaphragm head but I do not subscribe to that method as the big danger here particularly for a novice is losing your position, I like to be able to see and get at the adjusting screw clearly and cleanly and not have the Allen key come out of the grub screw unless I have the spanner firmly on the nut, this way I can guarantee I have moved the grub screw by the exact amount I intended, 1/3, 1/2 or 1/4 turn no matter what. That way I am in no danger of not being able to return it to the exact setting it had from the factory. I crack the nut open by the smallest amount, less than 1/8th turn, this allows me to insert the Allen key and make an adjustment with no backlash in the thread and if I need to go more the spanner is still clearly in view and in contact with the nut so I can remove the Allen key and reinsert for the extra adjustment without fear of position loss. EDIT: After 12 years of the diaphragm going up and down I noticed there was some wear and free play in the pivot point, a little over a 1mm, I reduced that free play today to less than .5mm, so it will be interesting to see if there will be any effect. Hope the above helps anyone wishing to have a go.

I Am Woman - Helen Redding

LA Woman - Doors

This is where you need to strike a balance, aggressive spoolup, high boost all add to lower fuel eco. If I'm on a good stretch of road, coasting, I can go to low boost and marginally save fuel with EGT very slightly up, if I start to strike hills I need to go to high boost for the extra power and to keep the EGT low. 320C at 110 is very good, I run around the same maybe a little less, but with my VNT wound down my spoolup is not aggressive at all and as said appears to have impacted positively on eco. EDIT: Just read Rays response to your question which is quite correct, the main confusing part to many people is trying to do a comparison between diesel and petrol and there is no real comparison, not sure what AFR is now for EFI petrol engines but years ago when I was building cars and racing carbureted engines we were aiming for an AFR of around 12.5 to 1 on the other hand, as Ray intimates diesels can run anywhere between 10 and 200 to 1 depending on the conditions and still manage to stay operational. Rich on a petrol engine is cool, lean is hot the circumstances for diesel are reversed and not as critical.

Being someone who has never subscribed to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" way of thinking, I am constantly looking for little ways to improve things (actually that is my job only I do it with Filling and Packaging machinery). You will often hear people come back to a poster saying check your gauges they must be out and in the case of clutch and brake, what vacuum do you have? Well I have a simple temporary solution which doesn't require drilling holes in a perfectly good vehicle and / or permanently adding more gauges on or around the dash. I installed a small 1/8th BSP stainless steel 3 way ball valve under the bonnet to which Vacuum and Boost are connected. When I installed my needle valve I run an extra line into the cab which terminates just underneath my homemade pillar pod this serves as the common exit of the 3 way. I have very simple 1/8th BSP vacuum and 0-30 pressure gauges setup on 4mm 1/8th BSP barb fittings which can be pushed into the line and hung on the dash for occasional testing purposes, nothing fancy no lights bells or whistles. I find it quite handy and I can switch between sides of the IC easily to mix and match the info I'm after. I also use the same pressure gauge to check fuel flow post fuel filter, but not via the 3 way. I am currently looking for a simple, value, compound gauge to further simplify the matter. Below: 3 way valve mounted on the same bracket I fabricated for the relocation of the vac surge tank during my Cross Country IC install, you may not have the tank but the mounting position is still there. If you are still running the engine cover you will need to mount somewhere else for access. The spare line termination can be seen to the right and b elow the EGT gauge. The 2 gauges I use, soon to be replaced by a small simple compound gauge.

I'm running Voltage alarm at 10.5v, Temp alarm at 95C (mine runs between 83 and 87) and speed alarm at 115k. I constantly scan the TPS and MAF, putting different conditions under the spotlight, it's amazing what you learn so you can make allowances.

It's actually quite easy, have done it 4 times now and can do it in less than 30 minutes on a cold engine and that's where I think the fuel eco in high boost mode is coming from, less aggresive spoolup with no loss of performance. As I said time will tell.

Thanks for pointing that out, not sure how that happened, have 2 sets of pics so must have had a senior moment when putting them up, fixed now.

Don't take the 6% as an across the board percentage for all vehicles with 285's, these bloody things are all different, the only way you can tell really is to compare against something solid like the 5k speedo check posts you used to see on some highways or against a GPS, if you don't have one, borrow one, it really is the only way to be sure, even when fitting my ECUTalk I had to calibrate it to the GPS.

Thanks Mate, I really appreciate that.

When mine became really bad a couple of years back I washed and rinsed them thoroughly on a hot day and hung them over the door to dry, I would not put silicone spray on the runner as this gets back onto the belt and attracts dust further exacerbating the run through the top mount. What I did find was some built up gunk on the top of the runner slot which when I removed, restored some extra return force into it, they were never brilliant so don't expect too much. There are a number of teflon/mylar tapes around that can be used to improve friction just need to make sure you get a very thin one.

As many would know I have a dual Dawes setup, 10psi low and normally 16psi high but now 18psi, I also have a DV06 needle valve which I have not used for some time after initially adjusting the VNT. When the symptoms of limp under 2500 first occurred I was able to tune it out by adjusting the needle by 1 1/4 turns open, this lead me to believe that it was a function of the MAP that was causing it, hence my artificially reducing the boost reading to the MAP, but that wasn't the case at all................ It appeared there was another unknown, to me anyway, function of the ECU that was taking control, as though there was a timer function saying you should be at this point by this time?????? As an aside, I have noticed no difference in performance after readjusting the VNT to a lower boost ramp (going on the dyno soon, that's why I was chasing the limp so urgently) but my city fuel eco seems to have gotten better. The dual Dawes gives me improved fuel eco when set on low, I am achieving the same numbers now on high, time will tell.

Off course you are right and I have not finished writing the item up as there were a lot of twists and turns in the saga and the interesting thing is that with the benefit of hindsight this write up will be a little more condensed than on Patrol 4x4.