geeyoutoo

The MAF voltage of 3.98v that had sent the Troll to limp were found during many days of testing in 4th gear, trying to keep speed down. When the FCD2 was installed and running I found there was a significant difference between 4th and 5th gear as to this setting, in 5th it was 3.88v which I had to readjust at the FCD2. Once running the startup FCD dial set points required raising, to achieve 3.88V limit the clip dial was adjusted up to 4.2 and the unclip to 4.6 as a safety precaution. Further testing showed there was a secondary limp point which had not raised it's ugly head until the gaining of considerably more torque which made me lazy, this was under 2500rpm, to this day this one remains a mystery, I have reduced the MAP boost signal to the ECU and it still happens so MAP is back to original. Readjusting the VNT (total of 3/4 turn down now) to give boost readings of 5 @ 1500, 11 @2000, 15 @ 2500 have greatly reduced the incidence of limp below 2500 but I have to really push it hard under abnormal conditions to make it happen so even though I have not discovered the full reason It won't effect the vehicle. Incidentally 18psi is not achieved until just after 3000 rpm. Interestingly this secondary limp issue does not appear to affect Auto's, so the ECU sees some difference between the manual and automatic transmission I have not utilised the unclip function of the FCD2 yet, this allows the ECU to return to seeing higher voltages at a predetermined level, ie, if 4.1v is not seen below 3000rpm this could be used as an unclip point.

For those who wish to try higher boost levels without limp on their ZD30, particularly if you have a blocked EGR where you will see an elevation of MAF voltages (in comparison to unblocked EGR). This is the method I employed, my target being 18psi. I mounted the control box on the dash beside my ECUTalk, using double sided tape, see last pic as to reasons. Numerous experiments had shown that upon reaching a MAF value of 3.98v under 3000 rpm would send the Troll to limp, I will go into this a little more in the second part. I purchased a Diesel Smart Fuel Cut Defender 2 (FCD2) from Rocket Industries. This device clips and holds the MAF voltage at a set-point to be determined by you, this set-point is what the ECU will see regardless of the voltage the MAF puts out. It was wired in as follows (if you are more electrically inclined than me and don't mind standing on your head under the dash then you may care to take the option of doing this on the loom at the ECU). Extended the original FCD2 cable and pulled through the firewall, made the power and earth connection to the same points as the lift pump installation I did. The 2 MAF/ECU remaining cables white and Blue were made to follow the original loom over to the MAF. Being a GU2 the red wire (pin 1) is the variable voltage cable, you will need to test this for yourselves to make sure, pin numbers change on various models, a thin piece of computer cable can be bent around and inserted where the MAF plugs in to check each pin and identify the correct wire by the voltage reading. I cut the cable well below the MAF plug so as the heat soak of soldering would not travel up the wire and damage the rubber in the MAF plug. The green cable is actually the white extended, could not get white in the size I wanted, so white (green) goes to the MAF side of the cut red wire and the Blue goes to the ECU side. The connections were soldered and double shrunk to maintain the waterproof integrity. Here the wires are folded ready for wrapping. Wrapped and replugged, looks better than original. FCD2 module sitting beside ECUTalk. The plan is to leave it here (double sided taped to dash) while setting up and optimising voltages, then tucking it away under the dash. As mentioned earlier the wiring on my 2000 GUII was checked out and confirmed as follows. Layout left to right looking at the MAF from the front of the vehicle: Pin 1 Red, Pin 2 White, Pin 3 Black, Pin 4 White, and Pin 5 empty. Remember, later models are different Voltage testing confirmed Pin 1 Red is the MAF output. FCD 2 wiring is, Red to positive ign Black to earth White to AFM side cut in (becoming AFM Pin 1 Red in) Blue to ECU side cut in (becoming AFM Pin 1 Red out) Initial setting of the FCD2 dials can be carried out as follows. Clip dial has settings 1 through 10. Setting 1 = 3v Setting 10 = 5.5v Assuming voltage output is linear between setting 1 and 10 then: Each division is assumed to = .247v Therefore 3.86v = setting 3.5 for trial start point of clip. Therefore 4.05v = setting 4.25 for trial start point of unclip. EDIT: The setting dial calibration is not linear so the .247 I spoke of has no real meaning, you have to set by feel. After several VNT adjustments for spool up (this does have some impact on FCD2 setup), I have returned to my original setting of 1/2 turn down on the grub screw giving me 6psi at 1500 and 12psi at 2000. So, I have clipped the MAF voltage at 3.88v (setting division 4) which allows me to hit 18psi under 3000rpm. Have now set up the unclip side (very easy to do under load with a small screwdriver) to activate at 3170 rpm in 4th which allows the voltage to climb to 4.27v by 3800rpm (setting division 3), the vehicle feels very good.

Song for Guy - Elton John

Well, I'm happy with my old girl, I've always extracted reasonable eco out of it, the best being 8.8 L/100 on a trip south a few years back (staying at or below 100k for several hundred k) and a 9.7 on a section of my recent Adelaide trip (fully loaded) and since fitting up the lift pump I have done 7200k at an average of 10.58L/100, I'm pretty chuffed with that, considering I have been experimenting with 18psi boost during this time.

Another Brick in the Wall- Pink Floyd

Built locally.

Love is Noise - The Verve

The earliest known Mayan calendar has been found in an ancient house in Guatemala and it offers no hint that the world's end is imminent, researchers said. Rather, the painted room in the residential complex at Xultun was likely the place where the town scribe kept records, scrawling computations on the walls in an effort to find "harmony between sky events and sacred rituals," said the study in the journal Science. The hieroglyphs date back to the ninth century, making them hundreds of years older than the calendars in the Maya Codices, which were recorded in bark-paper books from 1300 to 1521. Some appear to be the 365-day solar calendar, the 584-day cycle of the planet Venus and the 780-day cycle of Mars, said archaeologist William Saturno of Boston University, who led the exploration and excavation. According to Saturno, the writing looks like someone's attempt to sort out a very long math problem, as if on a blackboard. "For the first time we get to see what may be actual records kept by a scribe, whose job was to be official record keeper of a Maya community," Saturno said. "The ancient Maya predicted the world would continue, that 7000 years from now, things would be exactly like this," he added. "We keep looking for endings. The Maya were looking for a guarantee that nothing would change. It's an entirely different mindset." Furthermore, there is no sign that the much-hyped myth that the Mayan calendar would end in 2012, and with it the world, has any bearing in reality. All that ended in 2012 was one of its calendar cycles, said co-author Anthony Aveni, professor of astronomy and anthropology at Colgate University. "It's like the odometer of a car, with the Maya calendar rolling over from the 120,000s to 130,000," said Aveni. "The car gets a step closer to the junkyard as the numbers turn over; the Maya just start over," he added. "The most exciting point is that we now see that the Maya were making such computations hundreds of years -- and in places other than books -- before they recorded them in the Codices." Even though the 31-square km site of Xultun, deep in a rainforest where tens of thousands of people once lived, was first discovered about 100 years ago, the house structure where the calendar is drawn on the walls was spotted in 2010. Researchers say careful excavations have revealed that the paintings inside -- including some of human figures wearing feather head-dresses -- show the first examples of Mayan art on a house interior. "It's weird that the Xultun finds exist at all," Saturno said. "Such writings and artwork on walls don't preserve well in the Maya lowlands, especially in a house buried only a metre below the surface." :rolleyes:

That's exactly how I looked at mine when it happened and after it was rebuilt, mines a 2000 I've had since new, and I would not part with it now, apart from that it's got too many bits on it.

Whatever it is, it's intermittant, hitting a bump and having it perform better for a while doesn't add up. The 7psi sometimes and 16 on other occasions is also very strange. And I can think of no reason why limp would occur at 7psi. Limp occurs for MAF voltage reasons and overboost at the MAP. If the IC was leaking that bad it would be consitant even a small leak would have consistancy. A loose IC hose would blow off, It is really sounding a lot like a loss of vacuum effecting boost, or a leak somewhere in the line to the boost gauge. It doesn't really sound like a dirty MAF but that is always a good place to start in the elimination process. I too will be interested in the results and outcome.

Making Plans for Nigel - Robbiie Williams

Wild Thing - The Trogs

Bad Moon Rising - Creedence Clearwater Revival Been thinking about it all day.......

I love the Song Title Game on Patrol 4x4, so I thought I would start a version here. The idea is you have a song title, a dash - then the singer or band, a word is taken from the original title and used in the next song, does not need to be the same singer or band, it just rolls on from the word lifted from the previous title. I don't have a problem with covers as long as they are legitimate. The more words you borrow from the previous title the more of a legend you are and if you can keep a key word going your an even bigger legend It is handy if you can underline the key word(s) So to start it off: House of the Rising Sun - The Animals

No, that is not entirely correct and there will be eternal argument over the year models this refers to, but the classic fail (cracked and holed #3 and #4 piston often taking the head with it) reduced dramatically by 2003, by far the 2000/2001 were the worst (and that's mine), sure the ocassional one happened but many blew for other reasons. If the damage has not already been done from excess heat etc, yes nads will keep the pin in the granade, but the damage can sit on the borderline for years and then an event pushes it over the edge. To sum up, if NADS was installed on a brand new vehicle yes you wouldn't have a problem, many people have purchased a ZD30 with a lot of K on it and there has not been a problem then BANG. The damage has been done for some time it just never quite reached the tipping point. When mine went I had just finished one of many quick work trips from Sunny Coast to Sydney about 1100k during that year, I would leave at 0400hrs and drive basically non stop, work for a week and come back, the last trip I got home and said the the missus damn the Troll has gone well and the eco was great, I got up the next morning and BANG. The ECU will try to compensate for things for as long as it can. After the rebuild I installed my EGT and boost gauge first and drove the vehicle as I normally did, boost, well no worries, EGT....... 700C, frightened the s*** out of me and forever changed the way I drove the Trol. The old girl now will see 450C max no matter how hard I drive it. We can probably mention the setup of the Dawes and needle, the work you have done on your vehicle will change many of the aspects. The boost readings at 1500 and 2000 are guides only and should be somewhere between 5-6 and 10-12 respectively. Now depending on whether you have bypassed the vacuum switch, therefore bypassing the ECU will have an effect on the outright boost the turbo will put out, control taken away from the ECU gives a more linear boost trend. Limp can have 2 parts, boost and MAF voltage, if your EGR is blocked your MAF voltage will increase slightly ie roughly at idle 1.8v unblocked and 2.1v blocked, the voltage will also climb higher at revs blocked rather than unblocked. My early DI will limp if I hit 3.98v under 3 grand, boost does not play a big part in my case, but it does under 2500, another story. So the degree of NADS and how it was done has an impact on the final outcome. Great work Dronus.

OK, you may need to define advertising for me, If I have good service from a place and someone on the Sunny Coast is looking for a place to get something done, can I make a suggestion to them? When we say in a thread you can pick up the bits you need for your Dawes/EGT sender install at Pirtek/Air and lift gear, is that classed as advertising?

Maybe not the place to ask but how do I get a thread to open on the last entry rather than the first and have to go through all the pages, I can't find the solution if it exists, this is how I was setup on Patrol 4x4 and I found it a lot easier to work with that method when you already had knowledge of the threads initial content.

OK, just in case, I would like to get my EGT survey thread up and running here as I think there was a lot of good quality info in the other one for new and old members alike. I looked at bringing the info across but I only own my info so it may not be legal and there would be a hell of a lot of sorting to get it right. If you are interested in keeping this going please use the structure below in a cut and paste form and add your info over mine. There always seems to be a question of where and what EGT temps are acceptable with the GU ZD30 motor and with EGT being so critcal to the longevity of the motor you can never have too much information. The position of the EGT sender, ie pre or post turbo, the distance from the turbo dump pipe flange, the temp range you experience, cruising, towing, city, give others valuable info. Also add whether DI or CRD and what brand gauge is used. There are other aspects which may effect EGT which I have added as well. Fuel eco, well thats just so you can brag or squirm. Here goes, it will be a WIP. 2000, DI manual, 21700 k, Update #4 ---------------------original info-----------------------------update info Dawes --------------No-----------------------------------------Yes Needle V------------No-----------------------------------------Yes EGR done----------Yes----------------------------------------Yes Snorkel (Safari)---Yes----------------------------------------Yes EGT Boost---------Autometer Analogue------------------Unchanged EGT Sensor-------60mm from dump pipe flange-------Unchanged Cruise temp-------@100k, 10-12psi, 240-450C---------7-12psi, 210-320C Cruise temp-------@110k, 4-6psi, 350-550C------------10-18psi, 230-430C Tow Temp---------@100k, 10-12psi, 400-550C---------12-18psi, 320-460C City temp-----------150-350C, 5-8psi-----------------------150-250C, 5-8psi Tyre size------------265/75/16 @ 40psi---------------------Unchanged Chip------------------Safari DTronic----------------------------Unchanged Exhaust-------------Standard-----------------------------------Beaudesert 2 ¾"HF Cat Intercooler----------Standard----------------------------------Cross Country Lift Pump------------No-------------------------------------------Carter 4600HP Fuel Eco L/100----Best 8.8----------worst 17.5------------Average 11

As said my relationship with computers is love hate, they love to hate me, and it does not seem to help when you can't sign in as finding individual threads/posts become increasingly difficult, that was my experience last night anyway.

If your not positive then you are dead in the water anyway, I don't know the details just to surfice that there is a relationship building that may give the forum more time to get over it's main problem of ownership and rights, we can only hope.

Weare all in the same boat, I spent around 6 hours last night replicating some of my info threads, very time consuming and most of us don't have the time.

I am in the same boat, I can go on as avisitor but it ignores me when I try to sign in (lucky I don't have an inferiority complex, could be devastating). Some appear to be able to get in, I checked at 6pm last night and someone had replied to a post I did at 10am in the morning, I was locked out when I tried to log back on after midday. I was talking to a mod last night, there is still hope, but in the meantime I am going to try and replicate some of my info threads just in case. EDIT: Sorry for some reason my previous post disappeared from my screen so I thought I had hit the wrong button now I've duplicated it.......

I'm in the same position but apparently some can so it's strange, I can only get in as a visitor (it just ignores me, but I'm used to that ) but I noted a reply to something I said in the morning from 6pm last night from another member. I spoke to a mod last night. There's still hope.

Will you be carpeting it