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ECUTalk Install


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I hate drilling holes in a perfectly good car and I wanted the ECUTalk in plain view for analysing purposes. I got hold of some 3mm smokey polycarbonate from a signmaker cut it to shape and bent it using my wifes Craft heat gun, Using alcohol wipes I cleaned the area thoroughly (I use Arnorall) so my double sided tape would secure the polycarbonate piece in place, been there for some time now and still stuck like the proverbial s*** to a blancket.

To get the cable through I just lowered the steering wheel as far as it would go and there was plenty of room to pass through.

This bit of equipment has been invaluable in my understanding many of the ECU habits (including LIMP conditions), being able to read MAF voltages in real time, comparing TPS in varying conditions (In the pic TPS is set to voltage whereas I later set it to % much easier to evaluate), calibrating speed to a GPS, real time engine temps (although they don't move fast) and off course alt/battery charge. Also the 0-60/100 is handy for evaluating mods.

ECU connection Plug under right hand side of dash

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Measured, cut and bent the smokey polycarbonate to suit the size and angle I needed also had to trim a section away as my cruise control LED site above the steering wheel housing

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Polcarbonate double sided taped into position, still strong today. The actual ECUTalk is double sided taped to the Poly carbonate as well

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ECUTalk in its final resting position and up and running

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Plugged into the Laptop via USB cable

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In action on the road

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Edited by geeyoutoo
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G'day Gee, fantastic write up mate.

Is it that simple to set up, plug and play ( 1 plug) . Is it only gps - speed that needs calibrating.

Can you give me an idea as to what they are worth.

Does this allow you to read and cancel fault codes? or is that something else again ( besides doing it with a paper clip)

Cheers Mark

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G'day Gee, fantastic write up mate.

Is it that simple to set up, plug and play ( 1 plug) . Is it only gps - speed that needs calibrating.

Can you give me an idea as to what they are worth.

Does this allow you to read and cancel fault codes? or is that something else again ( besides doing it with a paper clip)

Cheers Mark

Yes, very simple to setup, I had some difficulties getting it setup on the laptop with com ports, but computers and I have a very difficult relationship sometimes. When doing this you need to have the USB icon marked in the menu, you will see it as you scroll through.

We know now that somewhere in late 2003 there was a change in the ECU that made the ECUTalk show a boost reading, it took the place of fan on/off on earlier DI's.

Yes, you can cancel fault code after reading them, there is a specific page for fault codes.

No, you also need to calibrate your TPS, this is very simple and in the instructions, I would recommend setting the TPS to % rather than voltage (option) as it seems to make more sense and easier to compare conditions etc, and you will get used to it and be able to pick headwinds etc from the TPS when you get used to it. Both are simple setups.

From memory I paid a bit over 250 bucks when I bought mine, so will probably be a bit dearer now, but it is still well worth it for the instant info that is available, you will spend more than that on separate gauges. There is no way I could have gained my understanding of the LIMP phenomina under differing driving conditions without it.

Edited by geeyoutoo
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From memory I paid a bit over 250 bucks when I bought mine, so will probably be a bit dearer now, but it is still well worth it for the instant info that is available, you will spend more than that on separate gauges.

I hear that. Looking at the ECUtalk web site there is no mention of gearbox oil temp. I guess you're manual and have little need, but, I'd like it.

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I've currently got mine gafa taped to on my dash in the middle on an angle :P.

Looks pretty cool, but I'll need to get it mounted there. The only issue is the cable goes across my dash, wrapped around my steering column twice and then plugged into OBDII plug. Need another plan!

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I'm running coolant temp at 99° alarm only as I fail to see how setting an alarm for anything else ECUTalk displays is worthwhile to bother with. Sure oil pressure or EGT would be high on my list but none of those is actually displayed. With the boost you'll know when ECU cuts the fuel.

Cheers

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I'm running Voltage alarm at 10.5v, Temp alarm at 95C (mine runs between 83 and 87) and speed alarm at 115k. I constantly scan the TPS and MAF, putting different conditions under the spotlight, it's amazing what you learn so you can make allowances.

Edited by geeyoutoo
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Usually sits around 88 degrees and climbs into the 90's on hills.

Have noticed that since I ran some liqui moli through my injectors straight fro the can my temps have dropped a couple of degrees. Been going to Sydney from Gosford a couple of times a week and the temps were getting upto 93 but after top temp is 91, not sure why but.

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Well my ECUTalk has served me well again, the vehicle has been starting fine but the low voltage alarm has been going off recently so I went and had it load tested and "FAIL", so new battery and back to square one. Batteries don't give you much warning anymore, not like the old days.

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