geeyoutoo

Just in case we do lose the other forum, I will try to move some of my tech info across, can't hurt will be a WIP for a while. This will be my first go here so bare with me.........

Won't be quite as much written detail but I can put up most of the pics and captions I saved on my laptop.

NOTE: No original fuel parts/lines were cut or modified in this exercise, this can all be undone and put back to standard with ease (well disconnecting the original fuel line after 12 years was not exactly easy, a few scratches on the hands were involved.

Rocket industries supplied the pump, Good price actually, all fittings were from either Pirtek or Air and Lift Gear

This is the wiring Diagram Whitie helped me on this (I'm an electrical dylexic, but I eventually get there)


This is the pump frame layout with measurements and the b upass schematic


Parts ready for assembly, eventually changed the bits I used on the spill line mod to get them more compact, used 90 dregree fittings for this


Pump Bypas line with one way valve, this is used in case of a pump failure, still allows the IP to pull past the pump but stops the pump from pressurising the tank


Pump Frame 1


Pump frame 2, with pump mounted to frame


Pump frame 3, mounted to chassis, Tow bar and Tank bash plate (unseen in this pic)




Pump frame 4, painted and showing chassis support bracket


Pump frame 5, Showing tow bar mount position and pump protection plate mounted to the lower bash plate



Pump frame 6, shows back mounting point to rear of the tank bash plate, also rear view of lower protection plate


Pump frame chassis mount shows where I drilled and inserted a rivnut into the chassis to add extra support for the frame, there is quite a bit of high frequency vibration from the pump and I considered it worth installing this ectra security mounting


Pump fully connected including bypass, Iput some rubber hose over and parts that could be subject to movement (I hate rattles and I wanted to protect them) I slid some 1" ID rubber insulation over the one way valve for the same reason.


3 way switch for pump operation, position one allows operation of pump when ignition is turned on for normal use. Position 2 isolates the pump completely, Position 3 allows manual operation from under the bonnet isolation and bleeding of filter when filter is changed.


Proposed Spill line mod layout overlayed on standard setup


Completed Spill line mod,


Cheers
Wow, that was time consuming

Strange, not all Torx head screws holding the MAF in place have the pin, mine didn't and the replacement screws that came with the new MAF didn't either, but I know of another GUII that has it.
Anyway it's a number 20 torx bit and be a bit careful when reinstalling as the thread is not that hard to strip.

Well, maybe it's time to start a fishing section and see how it goes. I'll start it off with one of my best pics taken a while back GT fishing, doing another trip soon so will have more pics.

For anyone who hasn't fished for these extremely tough, brutal monsters, the only thing I can say as an analogy would be throw a lure at a speeding freight trian and try to hang on. Can't wait to get back into it.

Tonight Tonight - Smashing Pumpkins

I hate drilling holes in a perfectly good car and I wanted the ECUTalk in plain view for analysing purposes. I got hold of some 3mm smokey polycarbonate from a signmaker cut it to shape and bent it using my wifes Craft heat gun, Using alcohol wipes I cleaned the area thoroughly (I use Arnorall) so my double sided tape would secure the polycarbonate piece in place, been there for some time now and still stuck like the proverbial s*** to a blancket.

To get the cable through I just lowered the steering wheel as far as it would go and there was plenty of room to pass through.

This bit of equipment has been invaluable in my understanding many of the ECU habits (including LIMP conditions), being able to read MAF voltages in real time, comparing TPS in varying conditions (In the pic TPS is set to voltage whereas I later set it to % much easier to evaluate), calibrating speed to a GPS, real time engine temps (although they don't move fast) and off course alt/battery charge. Also the 0-60/100 is handy for evaluating mods.

ECU connection Plug under right hand side of dash


Measured, cut and bent the smokey polycarbonate to suit the size and angle I needed also had to trim a section away as my cruise control LED site above the steering wheel housing


Polcarbonate double sided taped into position, still strong today. The actual ECUTalk is double sided taped to the Poly carbonate as well


ECUTalk in its final resting position and up and running


Plugged into the Laptop via USB cable


In action on the road

I hate drilling holes in a perfectly good car and I wanted the ECUTalk in plain view for analysing purposes. I got hold of some 3mm smokey polycarbonate from a signmaker cut it to shape and bent it using my wifes Craft heat gun, Using alcohol wipes I cleaned the area thoroughly (I use Arnorall) so my double sided tape would secure the polycarbonate piece in place, been there for some time now and still stuck like the proverbial s*** to a blancket.

To get the cable through I just lowered the steering wheel as far as it would go and there was plenty of room to pass through.

This bit of equipment has been invaluable in my understanding many of the ECU habits (including LIMP conditions), being able to read MAF voltages in real time, comparing TPS in varying conditions (In the pic TPS is set to voltage whereas I later set it to % much easier to evaluate), calibrating speed to a GPS, real time engine temps (although they don't move fast) and off course alt/battery charge. Also the 0-60/100 is handy for evaluating mods.

ECU connection Plug under right hand side of dash


Measured, cut and bent the smokey polycarbonate to suit the size and angle I needed also had to trim a section away as my cruise control LED site above the steering wheel housing


Polcarbonate double sided taped into position, still strong today. The actual ECUTalk is double sided taped to the Poly carbonate as well


ECUTalk in its final resting position and up and running


Plugged into the Laptop via USB cable


In action on the road

I love the Song Title Game on Patrol 4x4, so I thought I would start a version here. The idea is you have a song title, a dash - then the singer or band, a word is taken from the original title and used in the next song, does not need to be the same singer or band, it just rolls on from the word lifted from the previous title. I don't have a problem with covers as long as they are legitimate.

The more words you borrow from the previous title the more of a legend you are and if you can keep a key word going your an even bigger legend It is handy if you can underline the key word(s)

So to start it off:

House of the Rising Sun - The Animals

There is a lot more back room stuff going on than you and I know about, so it ain't over yet by a long shot, we need to have a bit of faith in OldMav, Mat and the other guy's. They are trying their hardest and I'm confident in their ability to get there, today is just another hiccup in a long chain of events. If it does go belly up it won't be for the lack of trying and if it does stay up then we as a group need to do all we can to help these guy's keep it going.

Fitting the Cross Country IC should be done with due consideration, follow the Cross Country instructions carefully with regard to what parts need to be taken off and not replaced, this is where most later problems lie. It is a large well made unit that only just fits, so double check everything to be sure.

When removing the old IC check how clean the internals are, this will give an idea of how well your Catch Can is working. This was after 60,000k, when it was last cleaned, pretty good I thought


The CCIC is a big unit, it only just fits.


Area under the IC, ensure all bolts etc mentioned in the CC instructions as obstructions are removed


With my unit I had to modify the mount plate slightly as shown, this is apparently not the norm


A few other items to watch when installing bracket. I did not use the supplied bolts at the back I installed the original bolts in the rear from the bottom , this seemed the better option for me


The fitted unit ready for wiring



Front mount bolts as supplied, when refitting the original rubber mounts I applied copious amounts of silicone past (not sealant) to feed the rubber and keep it subtle.


To remount the surge tank that is fitted to the early DI's I fabricated a bracket as follows using rivnuts and most of the original bolts










As an option I mounted a 3 way valve on this bracket, it gives me the option of attaching a compound gauge into a spare line I ran thjrough the firewall to allow me to check my boost and vacuum calibration, maybe overkill but I had nothing better to do that afternoon


EDIT: forgot to add, this is the internal view of the 50C thermo switch, it is just a contact area switch it does not protrude into the IC.

No, that is not entirely correct and there will be eternal argument over the year models this refers to, but the classic fail (cracked and holed #3 and #4 piston often taking the head with it) reduced dramatically by 2003, by far the 2000/2001 were the worst (and that's mine), sure the ocassional one happened but many blew for other reasons. If the damage has not already been done from excess heat etc, yes nads will keep the pin in the granade, but the damage can sit on the borderline for years and then an event pushes it over the edge.

To sum up, if NADS was installed on a brand new vehicle yes you wouldn't have a problem, many people have purchased a ZD30 with a lot of K on it and there has not been a problem then BANG. The damage has been done for some time it just never quite reached the tipping point.

When mine went I had just finished one of many quick work trips from Sunny Coast to Sydney about 1100k during that year, I would leave at 0400hrs and drive basically non stop, work for a week and come back, the last trip I got home and said the the missus damn the Troll has gone well and the eco was great, I got up the next morning and BANG. The ECU will try to compensate for things for as long as it can.

After the rebuild I installed my EGT and boost gauge first and drove the vehicle as I normally did, boost, well no worries, EGT....... 700C, frightened the s*** out of me and forever changed the way I drove the Trol. The old girl now will see 450C max no matter how hard I drive it.

We can probably mention the setup of the Dawes and needle, the work you have done on your vehicle will change many of the aspects. The boost readings at 1500 and 2000 are guides only and should be somewhere between 5-6 and 10-12 respectively. Now depending on whether you have bypassed the vacuum switch, therefore bypassing the ECU will have an effect on the outright boost the turbo will put out, control taken away from the ECU gives a more linear boost trend.

Limp can have 2 parts, boost and MAF voltage, if your EGR is blocked your MAF voltage will increase slightly ie roughly at idle 1.8v unblocked and 2.1v blocked, the voltage will also climb higher at revs blocked rather than unblocked.

My early DI will limp if I hit 3.98v under 3 grand, boost does not play a big part in my case, but it does under 2500, another story. So the degree of NADS and how it was done has an impact on the final outcome.

Great work Dronus.

OK, just in case, I would like to get my EGT survey thread up and running here as I think there was a lot of good quality info in the other one for new and old members alike. I looked at bringing the info across but I only own my info so it may not be legal and there would be a hell of a lot of sorting to get it right.
If you are interested in keeping this going please use the structure below in a cut and paste form and add your info over mine.

There always seems to be a question of where and what EGT temps are acceptable with the GU ZD30 motor and with EGT being so critcal to the longevity of the motor you can never have too much information.

The position of the EGT sender, ie pre or post turbo, the distance from the turbo dump pipe flange, the temp range you experience, cruising, towing, city, give others valuable info. Also add whether DI or CRD and what brand gauge is used. There are other aspects which may effect EGT which I have added as well. Fuel eco, well thats just so you can brag or squirm.

Here goes, it will be a WIP.

2000, DI manual, 21700 k, Update #4
---------------------original info-----------------------------update info
Dawes --------------No-----------------------------------------Yes
Needle V------------No-----------------------------------------Yes
EGR done----------Yes----------------------------------------Yes
Snorkel (Safari)---Yes----------------------------------------Yes
EGT Boost---------Autometer Analogue------------------Unchanged
EGT Sensor-------60mm from dump pipe flange-------Unchanged
Cruise temp-------@100k, 10-12psi, 240-450C---------7-12psi, 210-320C
Cruise temp-------@110k, 4-6psi, 350-550C------------10-18psi, 230-430C
Tow Temp---------@100k, 10-12psi, 400-550C---------12-18psi, 320-460C
City temp-----------150-350C, 5-8psi-----------------------150-250C, 5-8psi
Tyre size------------265/75/16 @ 40psi---------------------Unchanged
Chip------------------Safari DTronic----------------------------Unchanged
Exhaust-------------Standard-----------------------------------Beaudesert 2 ¾"HF Cat
Intercooler----------Standard----------------------------------Cross Country
Lift Pump------------No-------------------------------------------Carter 4600HP
Fuel Eco L/100----Best 8.8----------worst 17.5------------Average 11

As I said there are a few very good people working in the background to find a satisfactory resolution, that will se everyone come out a winner and legally. I truly hope it works and I wish them all the luck in the world with there efforts.

That does not mean this forum does not have a future, there is room for both.

Settle down gentlemen, yes there is a problem with the forum after it dropped out this morning. After getting gobbledygook late this morning, it will not let me sign in now.

There are people looking into it as we speak. The forum is still virus free no worries there. OldMav and others are doing a lot of work in the background that no one knows about or can appreciate how difficult it is, so just hold the phone for a little longer.

We always have this forum to fall back on, but damn I don't want to lose all the info we have on the other, simply too much knowldege goes down the drain. I have met a lot of great people on the Patrol 4x4 forum to nice to walk away from just like that.

Getting the right legal fix is not as simple as some may say.

Yes, very simple to setup, I had some difficulties getting it setup on the laptop with com ports, but computers and I have a very difficult relationship sometimes. When doing this you need to have the USB icon marked in the menu, you will see it as you scroll through.

We know now that somewhere in late 2003 there was a change in the ECU that made the ECUTalk show a boost reading, it took the place of fan on/off on earlier DI's.

Yes, you can cancel fault code after reading them, there is a specific page for fault codes.

No, you also need to calibrate your TPS, this is very simple and in the instructions, I would recommend setting the TPS to % rather than voltage (option) as it seems to make more sense and easier to compare conditions etc, and you will get used to it and be able to pick headwinds etc from the TPS when you get used to it. Both are simple setups.

From memory I paid a bit over 250 bucks when I bought mine, so will probably be a bit dearer now, but it is still well worth it for the instant info that is available, you will spend more than that on separate gauges. There is no way I could have gained my understanding of the LIMP phenomina under differing driving conditions without it.

I have no expertise in 4.2's but with the ZD30's part of the spill line runs under the rocker cover and is not normally subjected to the varying pressures applied by a lift pump, on a bad day it may leak and fill your engine with diesel. This mod returns the bypass to the tank with the added benefit of cooling the return thus having slightly cooler fuel returned to the IP.

Adjusting the VNT initially sounds very daunting, when actually it is quite simple. A little care and forthought makes it light going. Usually 1/2 a turn down on the grub screw is enough to put you in the right spool up rate following an EGR block/exhaust upgrade etc. Generally we are looking for a spoolup rate of 5-6psi @ 1500 and 10-12psi @ 2000, this is just a guide not a hard and fast rule. Excess spoolup can result in long term damage to the turbo from cavitation and turbo shock. Hope this helps people trying it for the first time.

Tools required: 10mm combination ring open end spanner preferably with a slight offset angle, a 2.5mm allen key, a pair of long nose pliers, 300mm of 10lb fishing line 30 minutes will se it done, and a bottle of Jack Daniels.

With the engine cool tightly attach the fishing line to the VNT retaining clip, otherwise when it flies off you will never see it again and you will be going to Mr Nissan for new one as you won't know the size


Push the clip off with long nose pliers


Under the VNT head are 2 x 10mm hex head set screw, undo the rear one first then the front (otherwise the rear one will be pushed by the spring loaded diaphragm and make it a bit more difficult to keep the spanner on


Slide the VNT rod off the retainer shaft and gently wriggle the head and rod to remove it upwards


The head and rod removed


I had a little over 1mm end float in the rod connection after 12 years of wear and tear, not sure what a new one has


Clear view of the grub screw and lock nut, 1/2 a turn down on the grub screw is usually enough to get you in the groove


Adjustment of the grub and lock nut, do this carefully so you don't lose where the original position was, loosen the lock nut just enough to turn the grub screw, do not take the spanner off as you want to ensure the exact amount you actually turn the grub screw in case you need to readjust later. Firmly retighten the lock nut in the new position, no need to overtighten as you can damage the grub screw head and lock nut


With the fishing line still attache, push the circlip back into place with the long nose pliers, the damn thing could still fly off

Did someone say Spanish Mackerel.





Don't ya love the shorts in the second shot, they are my lucky fishing shorts, lucky people have let me live.

Fitting the Cross Country IC should be done with due consideration, follow the Cross Country instructions carefully with regard to what parts need to be taken off and not replaced, this is where most later problems lie. It is a large well made unit that only just fits, so double check everything to be sure.

When removing the old IC check how clean the internals are, this will give an idea of how well your Catch Can is working. This was after 60,000k, when it was last cleaned, pretty good I thought


The CCIC is a big unit, it only just fits.


Area under the IC, ensure all bolts etc mentioned in the CC instructions as obstructions are removed


With my unit I had to modify the mount plate slightly as shown, this is apparently not the norm


A few other items to watch when installing bracket. I did not use the supplied bolts at the back I installed the original bolts in the rear from the bottom , this seemed the better option for me


The fitted unit ready for wiring



Front mount bolts as supplied, when refitting the original rubber mounts I applied copious amounts of silicone past (not sealant) to feed the rubber and keep it subtle.


To remount the surge tank that is fitted to the early DI's I fabricated a bracket as follows using rivnuts and most of the original bolts










As an option I mounted a 3 way valve on this bracket, it gives me the option of attaching a compound gauge into a spare line I ran thjrough the firewall to allow me to check my boost and vacuum calibration, maybe overkill but I had nothing better to do that afternoon


EDIT: forgot to add, this is the internal view of the 50C thermo switch, it is just a contact area switch it does not protrude into the IC.

Well, maybe it's time to start a fishing section and see how it goes. I'll start it off with one of my best pics taken a while back GT fishing, doing another trip soon so will have more pics.

For anyone who hasn't fished for these extremely tough, brutal monsters, the only thing I can say as an analogy would be throw a lure at a speeding freight trian and try to hang on. Can't wait to get back into it.