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Ive got the kaymar light (fits the kaymar rear bar) - looks good and all, but even when im camping I dont find myself using it a lot.. Thou I have a camper trailer with all sorts of 12v stuff in it. Maybe it might be more useful when im going alone (no family) and in a tent.. I could see it being more useful then.

Its tight in their... If your radiator is wider, it will probably not fit.. Other option is behind bull bar somewhere. The current location is good because its out of the weather/rocks etc but it would get a bit of heat.. Im not sure whats worse.

You can see it in the last picture (in the post with the install pics on page 1).. Its a little hidden, but you can see it next to the water bottle and to the left of the radiator (drivers side)

Saw this on my Facebook today.. Thought it was worth a laugh.

Glort - You mention the heater setting. I was under the impression that the heater setting makes NO difference in the later models. To quote their website: "Turn on heater control in your vehicle (if fitted. Vehicles built after 1997 do not have heater control valves, so moving the heater will not effect shower temperature)." So is this true? Cause I certainly didnt use the system with the heater on..

So why do they sell the Glinds and various copies? Longevity maybe? I did notice a difference in temp by increasing the idle upto say 2500 or so.

It works, I think however if the water is cold, running it around in circles in a big bucket to get it up to temp is the way to go. I havnt used it any other way (yet).. however im going camping at the start of June and it will be bloody cold, so I will report how it went when sucking water direct from the river. I think i will take the car for a drive first for at least 30 min to get it up to temp.

PDF link broken?

After speaking to a stack of people, the conclusion I came to was that the high pressure line is so small, that there is no way to join the pipe to hose - and replacing the entire pipe was not possible because one end had a custom nissan pad on it. Now, someone somewhere may know how to do it, but certainly not the people I spoke to, I spent 9 hours over two days driving around speaking to as many mechanics, auto elec's, and hose repair blokes i could find. In the end, the part from the wreakers was fitted in 3 hours by a young bloke who worked at the wreakers - He quoted me 400 cash for a Saturday job... Only took him 3 hours, so yay him. The total price for the repair was as follows: 1. $270 - Attempt to diagnose leak - First attempt to find leak failed, but regases A/C as it was holding a vaccume. 2. $125 - Part from wreakers 3. $400 - Labour to fit. 4. $220 - Dryer supply/fit and test/regas Total: $1015.00 Its been 24 hours and no sign of leaks and the car gets cold.. Just in time for winter. I didnt get pictures of the fitting of the part, but it basically involved the following. 1. Drop passenger side spring/shock 2. Undo four chassis bolts 3. Jack up - taking care to identify bits joined to both car and chassis - like mudflaps which were bolted to the car body and the kaymar bumper which is part of the chassis. 4. Remove part. 5. Install part. 6. Drop chassis back down. 7. Redo bolts. 8. Beer.

I got rid of my 2002 3l because I was scared it would happen to me. I spent more and got a 4.2 turbo. Would I do it again? Probably not. Maybe chuck a later model Crd motor in it and have for the best.

When I got my beast, I noted a shake at 80K-> 95K per hour.. I spent nearly 2K getting tie rod ends, castor correction, steering dampers, wheel alignments, drag link etc etc - Still nothing has fixed it.. Thou, I havnt had a freeking wheel balance. I will get onto that!

OK, so after going back to Nissan, things got a WHOLE LOT more complicated. The original part is about 4 ft long and comprises of both the HIGH and LOW pressure hoses -- welded together by mounting brackets. Nissan have changed the design, the new replacement comes in 6 parts - 3 for the high and 3 for the low pressure lines. Total cost well over a grand in parts. CRUNTS. I spent all day driving around trying to find someone to either remove current component and weld (told it was to thin, would probably stuff it) or cut n join using some sort of olive connector or other solution. As the pipe is so damn small, no one knew how to go about it and noone wanted to touch it. I decided it might be easier to simply isolate the rear condensor so that I could at least get the front going... So I went to a wreckers looking for the two pipes which connect to the firewall from a Nisaan without a rear AC (as they would allow me to connect the front condenser without connecting the rear). I could only find a Nissan with damaged pipes. I went to another wrecker and they had the rear part - on a patrol and it appeared undamaged. They said they would remove it for me - complete and undamaged for $125. SOLD. The patrol had a rear end crach which sent the diff off at an angle, so it made it easier for them to get the piping out, But it still required them to undo the chassis bolts and jack it up. Two blokes, 25 min later I had my part. One of them seemed keen on the idea of weekend work.. So we struck a deal and he will be installing the pipe work on Saturday morning for me at home. It will involve a few chassis bolts and a spring removal etc, but he knows what he is doing - So im happy, hes happy and Nissan dont get any of my money. I'll take pics and post them shortly.

At this stage cost is looking to be just under a grand. Shitty, but better than being hot.

OK, ive been to quite a few Auto Electricians and A/C places and also to Nissan. Basically noone wants to touch it, except Nissan - who will do it, but its going to cost me a bomb. One bloke said he did the crimp fix for a Nissan a few years ago and it ended up at fair trading because after a few months the crimps would leak - He said the pipe is so bloody thin and it vibrates etc causing eventual failure. He ended up buying the part from nissan and the customer paid for fitment. As we cant run the A/C at all I need it fixed. So it looks like I will need to go with Nissan :-(

Make two, send one to the admin :-)

Tip - Hot iron, solder quick. You want to heat the joint to be soldered as quickly as possible apply solder (and have it melt around immediatly), hold the iron until you see the solder 'fall' into place, and remove the iron - keeping the joint as still as possible the whole time. I find if the iron is not hot enough, it takes a while to heat the joint and solder - which isnt goodf for components.

Ok, so what your saying is a good A/C place should be able to cut out the damaged aluminum pipe and replace with hose... If this is the case it would be great

Just updated the forum to IP.Board 3.4.2. Hopefully it will fix the new user activation problems Ive been having!

I just wonder if using rubber hose might get me out of trouble here? Anyone know how much pressure is in the high pressure side? Maybe i could clamp on rubber hose and cut out the broken bit.

In the bottom corner of the pic, you can see where its hitting the fuel tank :-( Here is where it connects to

Ok, so my air con guy found the problem, my big fuel tank has rubbed against the high pressure hose (the smaller of the two pipes). Nissan was $403.20 for the pipe, but they say I will need the high pressure pipe at $213.20 as they come out together - and get this, they say the chassis needs to be raised to get them out! I was going to take out the pipe and take it to an aluminium welder to fix, but raising the chassis is not somthign im going to even contemplate. I'd pay for the new pipes - but I cant imagine the cost to fit them.

My GU has the rear A/C so it looks like its going to be expensive.

Found this at very rear of car today... And

I did a quick search and couldnt even find the FB page!

I got some HID conversions from ebay a while back - cant remember seller, but they still work fine to... Very bright - glad i got them... thou, they were $110!