TI_CRD_125

I also bought one and the results are excellent. Everything works as it should including auto zoom and exposure compensation. I've noticed that the body gets a bit warm with a dozen full power shots but nothing dramatic. Again, thanks for the recommendation.

Thanks for the comprehensive review (on a 4wd forum no less - I keep telling people that it's a myth that we're all uncultured rednecks!!). I'd been tossing up between this one an a Nissin unit for a D300 Nikon. The old Sunpak hammerhead (with a voltage reducer) I've been using is good for output but doesn't swivel. The price of the Canon/Nikon units is ridiculous. Where did you buy it? Adrian

I bought my Tunit for the CRD from Tunit on ebay. He sells the the trade-ins for around $500 with a 6 month warranty. Came with a new harness and has made a big difference to drivability around town. Haven't had a chance to go for a long drive yet or tow. The Tunit and DP Chip are physically identical.

My 2010 CRD TI came with a factory alloy bullbar. When I was fitting driving lights I noticed that there are holes along the lower edge. Should there be a plate of some sort that covers under the bullbar? I've seen it under winches but can't find a photo of a factory bar from underneath. I guess the radiator etc could be vulnerable to a stick springing back up after being pushed over by the bar, or is this a very low risk? I do want to replace the plastic one "protecting" the steering dampner with (probably) a Bushskinz version. I had a full set of Bushskinz plates on my Pajero and the front one certainly saved the intercooler (stupid design - the IC is the lowest thing at the front!). Thanks Adrian

I bought a Sandgrabba for the luggage area off the same seller a few months back. I thought it was going to be a flexible rubber material but it's a semirigid vinyl with foam backing. Very good quality but things slide around on it. You can see a corner of it in the thread I posted about the rear powerboard I made. The service from the seller was excellent. Adrian

Thanks SA_on_Patrol, I bought the app as well. Must be going well as the price has doubled! Gotta love apps though - $1.99 By the look of the update history, the publishers of one of the books has probably heavied the author to remove the ability to enter GPS coordinates manually. Wouldn't take much otherwise for someone to simply transcribe the whole of Camps or similar books into the database. Now to include coordinates you have to actually be at the spot you're describing. Adrian

I've had the ECU flashed with updated firmware (2010 CRD TI) when Nissan thought that might stop the cruise hunting (didn't). Takes about 2 hours. No cost as mine's under warranty so don't know how much they charge. Adrian

Has anyone tried the BCF or Anaconda ones that are more like a dome tent that attaches to the back? I don't need to have a rack on for the next trip to the Channel Country. Adrian

Thanks Ray. The best ideas are often also the simplest! Adrian

Thanks for that. It looks like it should have been made like that in the first place:) (but OTOH, having seen the size of wires that Nissan run to the cig plugs that supposedly carry 10A then perhaps it's better to do it yourself.) Adrian

The Merit/Hella plugs are a click-fit and I haven't had any problems over many years of use. Anderson are certainly better and I use the outside one for the camper connection or compressor or solar panels (to feed power back to the second battery). Cig sockets/plugs are hopeless for anything other than a lighter. I made up a short Hella plug to two cig sockets lead for plugging in phone chargers etc but have otherwise changed the plugs on the fluoro and other low/medium draw gadgets to Hellas. Adrian

Yet another variation on a theme..... I ran power from the second battery to the rear yesterday for a fridge and whatever else. By spending an hour or so making the panel blank and sourcing the voltmeter and Merit sockets, I saved around $120 compared with commercial equivalents. Panel is a piece of plastic around 2-3mm thick. I recycled an old document tray but anything you can get your hands on will be fine. Needs to be thin enough that the clips on the meter, switch and original clip will go all the way though. Cable is two runs of automotive 6mm back to a fuse panel under the passenger kick plate. I also have a totally separate run along the chassis of 6 B&S for the Anderson plug to the camper. Voltmeter is a two wire unit off ebay for about $7 delivered. Jaycar sell the same one for $25. When buying, it's easiest if it is a 2 wire, self powered meter rather than having to have a separate power supply. Switch is momentary action. I bought a 2-way thinking the existing lighter socket was easily accessible so I could measure the main battery voltage but it isn't. Adrian

The standard nav/av system fitted to TI models since the GU7 is the Eclipse AVN726EA. Generally quite a good unit, particularly after the firmware and map updates. One frustration though is that there are no steering wheel controls. As the buttons are very small, and all look the same, quick changes to volume are hit-and-miss. A solution that's worked quite well is to get hold of the Eclipse remote ($15-20), buy a programable steering wheel mounted IR remote off ebay ($11) and make a tiny reflector to reliably direct the IR beam onto the sensor. Pics below. Overall arrangement Steering wheel remote - held on by a rubber strap which makes at surprisingly solid; mounted "upside down" as all the ones on ebay are designed for LHD vehicles Headunit with reflector Closeup of the relector - 12mm aluminium angle filed to shape and stuck to the unit with double sided tape This may work for other headunits with IR remotes Adrian