mitchgq

here you go..federal couragia 35-12.5-15

here you go..federal couragia 35-12.5-15

here you go..federal couragia 35-12.5-15

My old girl was loosing some of her get up and go so time for some maintence.

Cleaned the Walbro Fuel Pump Strainer
Changed the CAV filter
Replaced the Water injection pump
Fixed the WI switch to bring it on a bit earlier
Filled the WI tank with 30% Meth
Put 50L of Fuel in the tank. Gets expensive in winter, cost about $7.50.

Noticed she is starting to blow a bit of smoke that smells like engine oil. I think she is starting to get a bit tired. I'm pretty sure one cylinder or injector isn't happy or pulling it's weight.
Pretty dissapointing seeing it only has 565,000 on the clock.

You blokes are fn crazy.

Metalwork and the like is my forte, but give me a piece of timber and I'll return you some firewood.

Cheers

Ray

Ray! You have destroyed this topic before it got started. :-P

I could post up a picture of a 300W monoblock power amp I made back when I was 18 for my fully sick subwoffer.. But it pales in comparison to your work of art.

love them mags mate looks tuff as well done

time for some bling:D


did not stay bling for long...neva buy polished rims...

pretty much how it sits today. i have strenghnd the lower control arms, half way making some sliders and rear bar...fitted a 32 inch light bar from jet-6(awesome) arb compressor. uhf, rope for the winch. the usuall mods.

this was taken in yeppoon near the orange bowl i think 6 or 9 mile beach??
ill throw up some pics now of trips as theres not much going on right now.

Ok, this is just a scratch area to keep ideas on building my rear recovery point.

Once its built and confirmed to not kill anyone ill post it in the Recovery Points Thread.


The Problem:

The Telstra bar on the back of my GU doesn't have a hayman Reece hitch, so i cannot use the normal recovery insert. Make something stronger.



The investigation:

I took the tow pintle off and was happy to see that the bolt layout is the standard for 4 bolt tow hitches. The tow hook that was fitted on the back step fit fine, however i need something much stronger.


So i ended up with something like this until i work out the new recovery point.



I have seen a couple online, and maybe ill find one at an auction, but im thinking of getting something like this made (yes i suck at google sketchup)



I have seen these online - but they are very expensive!



Maybe get something like this and weld it on? My mate is a certified welder

http://cgi.ebay.com....atchlink:top:en




There is also this, but i dont know how good it is

http://www.ebay.com....=item27b68f7ff7



How about this?





Still working on this, stay tuned................

Hey all, I'm in Moranbah (bum stuff of nowhere lol) 2hrs inland of mackay.

I can. i am buying them from:



Allan Cuthill @ racebred4wd.



Phone: 03 5134 1007





i am paying $2,400au for 4x shocks and the king racing steering damper.



This includes Australian warranty, custom valving, canister brackets, damper mounts, and shimming.




Last time i bought direct from the states and it didnt work out much cheaper after you buy all the other bits and pay for valves/shims.



He will be doing my complete suspension kit this time. my diff lamination, and my lockers.

I actually like this forum!

Hey guys,
Just saw tha P4x4 is down and being upgraded as we speak. Fingers crossed and lets hope for the best. Don't think it will be the same though... I'm having no problems posting over there but it seems that alot of traffic on the forum has ceased. Even if its fixed I don't know if many people will end up going back there...

Running a 4.2D on veg oil.

The 4.2 is a great candidate for veg oil use.

Having inline or rotary Bosch pumps, IP failure is not an issue.
I have been running my ’88 NA engine with 560K km on straight veg and blends with NO modifications ( other than a lift pump) for about a year now. I did have a Heat exchanger installed but due to it being too restrictive once I turned up the IP, I have bypassed and haven’t worried about it. I will probably try to fit a larger one this winter.

When I first got the Vehicle near the Qld border, I merely purchased a spare fuel filter, pumped up the tyres, topped the tank off that had about 20L of Dino in it with Veg oil and drove the thing back to Sydney without a hitch. I ran round in june- july with the thing dead stock and just adding 10% petrol. I later added a heat exchanger and CAV fuel filter as well as a Walbro fuel pump.

In summer I run on mainly straight oil but add 5% petrol when I remember which helps with performance on oil. I recommend a 5% min blend all the time. The petrol helps bring the ignition speed of the oil back closer to that of Diesel and makes a big difference in power and Torque.

Personally I wouldn’t bother running one of these on a 2 tank setup.
2 Years experience has been enough to tell me it is in no way necessary unless you live in a climate where it regularly gets to zero. When it did, I’d just run high ratio Blends of petrol and dino for a couple of months till the temps came up again.

My experience with my NA engine when turning up the IP was that the lift pump on the IP struggled to pull sufficient fuel through. I fitted a walbro pump and it made all the difference. I also replaced the OEM fuel Filter with a CAV filter for cost and ease of availability. That said, the OEM filters seem to have much more dirt holding capacity and less flow restriction.

To run a 4.2 on oil requires nothing much more than pouring in clean, dried veg and go as long as the ambient temps are around 15 oc or above Most of the time.
At this time of year I would suggest adding 10% Unleaded. One could also add a flat plate heat exchanger ( FPHE) to the fuel line to help thin the fuel. This is most beneficial in melting any fats that may accumulate in the filters and block the fuel flow. That said, If the oil is processed correctly, there will be little to no fat drop out anyway.
Heat exchangers are available on ebay for around $100. A 20 or 30 plate is sufficient.
For optimum performance on veg, the timing can be advanced 5 degrees on stock. I have never bothered with this myself but for those with a power thirst it will make a small difference.

I get my oil for free. It's a waste product to the restaurants and they are happy to have their garbage removed asap.

In the past restaurants had to pay to have it collected. In some areas I believe this is still the case. I am not aware of anyone in Sydney charging for its removal. In the past when the price of fuel was high, some collectors were trying all sorts of tactics to secure all they could. A number promised to pay the restaurants and put them on contracts which were promptly broken when the price fell and I am yet to speak to anyone that actually got paid a cent.

If one considers the total cost of processing and cleaning the oil, I have worked it out to be well under 1c a litre. My processor would use about 2-3C worth of electricity per 200L batch and the only other cost is filters. These would run less than $20 and I usually get around 2000L + out of a set.
I usually process enough oil to fill a 1000L IBC in 200L batches. On my last lot I stuffed up the last batch and pumped dirty oil into the processor not the settled oil. This blocked my filters prematurely so I only got the 1000L batch out of that filter set.
What a shame, doubled my costs! Might have cost me 1.5C per litre for that lot!

A lot of people think process oil is too messy and time consuming. Many just hang the filter bags up, fill them and let them drain. This can be a slow and messy endeavour. After a few mishaps with this system, I built myself a processor which filters and dries the oil in a 44 gallon drum.
I pump the oil in, let it process and pump it out to an IBC finished and ready to go. This takes about 15 min hands on time and I can do it wearing a suit if I want because there is no mess or spillage.

The processor is dead simple and cost me less than a $100 to make. Obviously more than paid for itself first time out let alone the thousands of litres I have put through the thing. The bigger pump I recently put on it has blown a seal so I'll buy another till I repair the other with a new seal and then I have a job for the 2nd pump anyway.


As far as range goes, it seems to be much like the power. Most people report about a 10% loss but it does depend on the vehicle.
With my old '88 NA 4.2, loaded to the gunwhales with 200L of oil on board for the return trip and all the crap for a family of 4 that fill the thing, I can go to Brisbane from Sydney on around 120L of oil. On the highway with light loads I can get down into the 10Km/l if I take it easy.
My wifes Peugoet recently returned 6.5l/ 100 on a country trip on oil and it was loaded up for a few days away and I took 2x 25L drums of oil as well..... Which turned out I didn't need. :0)
People often report around 6l/100 for these cars but I have also dialed mine up pretty high on the fueling and boost and It dosen't slow down a bit on any hill I have found so far.