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MAF Sensor Maintenance - GU Patrol

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I have read that the MAF sensor should be changed periodically...

How often? How can you tell if its ready to change?

I clean mine probably every 5 - 10,000ks, or more if I have done a long dusty trip.. Ie: Say Cape York. But have never changed it. And I cant remember the mechanic ever specifically mentioning it when I get it serviced.

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It doesn't need to be changed unless it shows signs of playing up, usually affecting boost etc. The best thing to do is periodically give it a clean as you have. If you plan to do a lot of remote driving, then it's probably not a bad idea to carry a spare if yours has done a lot of kilometres.

Cheers

Ray

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I've changed mine at 170000km only as a precaution measure. I keep the old one in the toolbox of the Patrol as emergency spare.

Other than this I give it a clean with MAF spray from time to time.

Cheers,

Edu

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Cheers for the input. :)

Mine is not playing up. More trying to decide if its a good preventitive measure. It looks like, from the response, I need do no more than I am.. Which works for me :D

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I changed mine around 150k although it wasnt playing up, i was hoping it was going to save me some juice, i think ive cleaned it once only ever.

The old one is in the glove box for a spare.

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is this OK for cleaning it? do you just spray down the hole around it?

That's the stuff I use. Stay clear of electronic contact cleaners, as some incorporate an additive that is designed to provide a protective layer to the electronic components, which is the last thing you want for a MAF.

Cheers

Ray

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I use CRC CO Contact Cleaner and it works extremely well for me, have used it for a number of years with absolutely no side effects, I clean the MAF every 10,000k.

So my advice would be to use the one that is the cheapest between the above and a specialist cleaner.

My first MAF lasted 100,000 or so before dying (never cleaned), my current MAF has 120,000+k on it and it is regularly cleaned.

Edited by geeyoutoo

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The local diesel place here in Cairns was stressing that they need to be replaced at 100,000 kms. I bought a AFI version that has same part number and markings as OEM. They told me they are supplied from same manufacturer who supplies Nissan. And for $160.00 its been fine with no issues so far. Compared to engine issues and cost that most people would incur for Nissan dealer to diagnose its cheap.

Dan

Edited by cairnsGU

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It's located immediately after the air cleaner outlet on a semi-rectangular box, facing the radiator, before the hose that goes to the turbo. It's oval in appearance with two screws and has a connector that goes into the middle. The screws are a torx bolt screw pattern with a pin in the centre, so you need to get the right torx tool. Also, you don't have a lot of working room, so the torx tool needs to be fairly short or have a right angle attachment.

Cheers

Ray

Edited by Ray!

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It's located immediately after the air cleaner outlet on a semi-rectangular box, facing the radiator, before the hose that goes to the turbo. It's oval in appearance with two screws and has a connector that goes into the middle. The screws are a torx bolt screw pattern with a pin in the centre, so you need to get the right torx tool. Also, you don't have a lot of working room, so the torx tool needs to be fairly short or have a right angle attachment.

Cheers

Ray

Thanks for that Ray

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Strange, not all Torx head screws holding the MAF in place have the pin, mine didn't and the replacement screws that came with the new MAF didn't either, but I know of another GUII that has it.

Anyway it's a number 20 torx bit and be a bit careful when reinstalling as the thread is not that hard to strip.

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If you have a 2.8 DO NOT undo the screws and prise open as you would the 3.0l as this will snap it inside and you'll be left to try and solder it back together or buying a new one.

You got to take the hoses off both sides of the MAF and just spray through.

Also take care to not physically touch the wire inside, this applies to all types of MAFs.

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It's located immediately after the air cleaner outlet on a semi-rectangular box, facing the radiator, before the hose that goes to the turbo. It's oval in appearance with two screws and has a connector that goes into the middle. The screws are a torx bolt screw pattern with a pin in the centre, so you need to get the right torx tool. Also, you don't have a lot of working room, so the torx tool needs to be fairly short or have a right angle attachment.

Cheers

Ray

Ray did you have trouble finding a torx bit easy? I just looked at mine and I have the stud in the centre of the screw

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Ray did you have trouble finding a torx bit easy? I just looked at mine and I have the stud in the centre of the screw

I just went to Bunnings and got a little screw driver kit that had an assortment of those torx bits. The ratchet driver and about 30 different drivers was from memory about ten bucks.

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I got something similar, it may have been from supercheap, maybe even ebay and cost about $5-10. It's a red rubber box with about 20 or so fittings of all types that suit a standard 1/4" or so hex head screwdriver attachment. These are fairly readily available just about anywhere.

What I got was one of these:

!BoSHDkQ!mk~$(KGrHqMOKisEuZLMURsgBLm75tLQTg~~_3.JPG

Cheers

Ray

Edited by Ray!

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I had a limp mode issue once with electrical sensor in the accelerator assembly - replaced the assembly & once with a dirty MAF - bought a can of MAF cleaner, sprayed it and bingo no more problems. There is enought cleaner in the can to outlast the troll & it's less than $20 for a can.

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Hey guys! Help me out... I bought my car with only 31.000 km - it was made in December 2008 so it has a Common Rail engine. The car stud for around 9 months there - so I added some stuff to clean the injectors, I cleaned the MAF with a contact cleaner and so on. The behavior is quite strange though - I also connected the Torque App and I see the values from the turbo boost. 

Sometimes it works brilliantly and the turbo kicks in and it goes from 0.1 to 1.3 - 1.4 BAR - that is 20 PSI. The thing is, that after a long drive, during the drive, the turbo starts to die. The smoke behind turns black and the turbo pressure doesn't go up anymore 0.2 - 0.3 is max. The car is standard - no mods, no nothing, except for 33-inch tires, and a winch. A buddy of mine who had multiple patrols but with older engines told me that the last engine should have no limp issues and it should work normally and he suggested to change the MAF sensor. 

 

What is your opinion? 

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Well you should be able to see MAF Voltages in Torque app.  Monitor signals when it goes well and compare when not. Also check that vacuum connections to VGT are intact because any leak will retard the turbo vanes. When engine idles the actuator should be fully up, check when you have issues.

Regards

Edited by Rumcajs

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