One accessory that every 4WD should carry is a snatch strap, but what isn't often considered is an appropriate attachment method for the snatch strap. The attachment needs to be strong, so that it can withstand the forces of snatching, it should be easy to attach and remove the strap after use and it should create minimum interference if attached to the vehicle. That's what I had in mind when I made up this snatch strap attachment:

It's basically a 4mm thick tube the same size as a regular tow hitch, with a 20mm diameter solid steel rod slotted through and welded into place:

Rather than having the usual long attachment like many with the hook:

This one doesn't protrude much at all and rarely hits anything on the tracks:

Here's another view of the hitch:

And one with the snatch strap attached (the hitch got a bit of a beating after our last cruise):

It's withstood a lot of use over the years (something like 20+), so I can vouch for it's strength and usefulness.

Cheers

Ray

Edited May 10, 201213 yr by Ray!

Great idea but using your tow point as a snatch point can bend your tow bar have seen it quite a few times

Consider that people break 8 tonne snatch straps and your tow bar ain't rated to that

Great idea but using your tow point as a snatch point can bend your tow bar have seen it quite a few times

Consider that people break 8 tonne snatch straps and your tow bar ain't rated to that

I'm not so sure about that. The Nissan tow bar has a three point mounting, both chassis rails and in the middle of the crossbeam that goes between the chassis rails. The crossbeam is further braced by additional cross members to the chassis (creating triangular sections), so the entire rear end is very strong. If this wasn't strong enough, I don't know where on the Patrol you'd attach a snatch strap.

Cheers

Ray

How do you use it Ray? do you just slip the strap hoop over both bars or what. can you upload a picture with the strap attached cause i like this idea alot will make it easier then pulling the pin out and slipping the strap up the bars guts then putting the pin back in.

I did awhile ago make a snatch point by using an old tow toung and a rated bow shackle i slotted the box section and slipped the shackle into it then welded it all up and folded the tabs i slotted over the shackle and welded it up some more but iv been to scared to use it lol.

How do you use it Ray? do you just slip the strap hoop over both bars or what. can you upload a picture with the strap attached cause i like this idea alot will make it easier then pulling the pin out and slipping the strap up the bars guts then putting the pin back in.

I did awhile ago make a snatch point by using an old tow toung and a rated bow shackle i slotted the box section and slipped the shackle into it then welded it all up and folded the tabs i slotted over the shackle and welded it up some more but iv been to scared to use it lol.

Yes, you loop it over. I've added some extra photos.

Cheers

Ray

Nice Ray. Makes for quick de/attachment A commercial version is available in billet form. But then knowledge and skill regarding threads is required for correct use.

I'm not so sure about that. The Nissan tow bar has a three point mounting, both chassis rails and in the middle of the crossbeam that goes between the chassis rails. The crossbeam is further braced by additional cross members to the chassis (creating triangular sections), so the entire rear end is very strong. If this wasn't strong enough, I don't know where on the Patrol you'd attach a snatch strap.

Cheers

Ray

On mine I have two hooks on the chassis same as front when I picked my fridge from arb they had 6 towbars in the metal bin including other parts and aske the question and was told this then shown they all seem to deform in the centre bending out

On mine I have two hooks on the chassis same as front when I picked my fridge from arb they had 6 towbars in the metal bin including other parts and aske the question and was told this then shown they all seem to deform in the centre bending out

Were those towbars from Patrols and were they Nissan ones? As I pointed out, my towbar is also attached to the centre of the chassis cross member that runs at the end of the chassis. For the towbar to bend, it would also bend/rip the chassis. Also, one has no real idea as to how those towbars were used, regardless of the brand. It's also then ironic that ARB sell snatch strap attachments for towbars. One could potentially claim recompense if they sell a product that will clearly damage another product.

Cheers

Ray

Edited May 10, 201213 yr by Ray!

Thanks Ray,

Ray..didn't realize you were on here..lol

..

Oops

Edited May 10, 201213 yr by cairnsGU

Ray..didn't realize you were on here..lol

..

A change is as good as a holiday.

Cheers

Ray

great idea ray, very simple and easy to use, i have never seen that.

good to see u on this forum to

Thanks Ray.

The best ideas are often also the simplest!

Adrian

Nice Ray,

Another add-on you could do is weld some wings onto the bar going through the box section to retain the strap (kind of like that little plate bit at the end of the front transport hook) when crossing rivers or driving with it mounted for quick use.

Edited May 10, 201213 yr by heyhey

hay yer it worked fine until it broke and killed somone

as big GU said use tow hooks and a strap to equilize the stress

read the manual dont ever snatch from 1 point

Alan

Edited May 18, 201213 yr by carnaby

hay yer it worked fine until it broke and killed somone

as big GU said use tow hooks and a chain to equilize the stress

read the manual dont ever snatch from 1 point

Alan

I think Darcy was talking about a method of holding the strap in place when not in actual use.

I would absolutely never, ever, use a chain in any shape or form for snatching. Chains are designed for lifting and constraining loads, they are not designed to be used where sudden and high forces are applied.

I used to do rigging in the oil and gas industry, I have a vague idea of what I'm talking about.

Cheers

Ray

ARHHH

but you will use a single attachment point on a towbar rated at 3500 kg

and remember theese dont meet aus standards for lifting and rigging so the 5-1 factor does not apply

chains are part of most recovery kits and are used as an equalizing to hook your snatch strap to

the origonal front tow point looks pretty strong too but we pull them off and fit 2 why is that ?

Alan

ARHHH

but you will use a single attachment point on a towbar rated at 3500 kg

and remember theese dont meet aus standards for lifting and rigging so the 5-1 factor does not apply

chains are part of most recovery kits and are used as an equalizing to hook your snatch strap to

the origonal front tow point looks pretty strong too but we pull them off and fit 2 why is that ?

Alan

You are confusing SWLs/WLLs with breaking strains.

Cheers

Ray

Looks good Ray. If I didn't have a pintle I'd do that for sure. I have these two big pins on either side of my pintle, they look pretty hard core. Do you think they could be used (with rated shackles and a bridle) as a recovery point?

Agree about chains, I'd maybe use a chain to equalise while winching, but not while snatching.

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I wouldn't use the two points on either side of the pintle for recovery, they look like safety chain points. BTW, I once bent a pintle hook in the bush, they're a lot less stronger than I thought, but I didn't bend the towbar.

Cheers

Ray

OK, let's settle this debate about whether a tow bar is suitable for snatching or not.

Firstly, some words and images directly from the Nissan service manual (bold is my emphasis):

Tow Truck Towing

TOWING HOOKS

The towing hooks are provided only for emergency.

• Use the towing hooks only, not other parts of the vehicle.
  Otherwise, the vehicle body will be damaged.
  
• Use the towing hooks only to free a vehicle stuck in sand,
  snow, mud, etc. Never tow the vehicle for long distances using
  only the towing hooks.
  
• The towing hook is under tremendous force when used to free
  a stuck vehicle. Always pull the cable straight out from the front
  or rear of the vehicle. Never pull on the hook at a sideways
  angle.
  

I would never snatch using the loop at the back, as it is not adequately welded to the plate, nor is the plate of any substantial material and the bolts aren't high tensile from what I've noted.

This is an image of the chassis of the wagon:

I've highlighted using a red rectangle the rearmost stucture of the chassis and you will note that is is substantially braced by a cross member, as well as additional triangular sections fully across the rear to create a very strong three-bar linkage structure. I have also added an overlaying diagram of the Nissan tow bar, showing in black the attachment points to the chassis. You cannot tell me that two tow hooks attached only to the sides of the chassis will be stronger than the central tow point on the tow bar.

Cheers

Ray

Edited May 13, 201213 yr by Ray!

Cheers Ray. Being that I never tow anything I might remove the pintle and I'll see if the local Fab shop (wasp4x4) can make something substantial up to go there...would love to use your idea but I can see half my leg (or dog) hanging off it as it would be there permanently.

*edit removed use of the hoop after reading next post

Cheers,

Edited May 12, 201213 yr by dronus4x4

crazily enough the hoop fitted on the pintle mount.. replaced bolts with high tensile

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Don't ever use that for snatching, the weld and material is simply not durable enough for the task.

Cheers

Ray