BigGQWesty

So your still running the belt driven fan and 2 10" thermo fans?? Why not disconnect the belt driven one and put the 2 10 in the rear? But I like the snorkle. Is that 3 or 4"

Black Gold!!!! It's settled for 2 weeks in the 44.. Pulled 20L off the top and into the top container. That's trickling into the shopping bag filter with 20 rare earth magnets in it.. (f-ing strong. Each has a 3kg pulling power..) Then into the next bottle and threw a 1 micron poly woven filter.. And into a clean holding drum ready for use. Going to start at 25%.

Now Glort I was thinking tonight that your using veg oil in your burner are you? This is probably why my unit isn't burning cleanly as im using motor oil..

Just a teaser. These are for the shed heater.. Not the city heater.. Lol

Beg For Me- Korn.

Unreal... ...

Well there in and I'm stocked.. Very clean and very easy to do. But you need 2 people.. Used a 5mm rope and fed it around inside the rubber were the lip will eventually end up. Allow a good 30cm overlap and have the tails to the inside. Next was to pull the old ones out. Another easy job. The inside rubber is simply peeled away and push the frame out.. Make sure you have some one to catch.. Next we simply placed the window in position and while the outside person applies light inwards pressure you pull the rope out and the rubber will simply roll over the body lip.. Use plenty of soapy water. The corners are a little tougher and a screwdriver is handy to aid the rope. All in all 45mins and there in..

Well bugga me.. I got prezzies this morning... After ordering Thursday there in my hot little hands.. Comunication with Matt from Auto Moulds was exellent, and he even installed the rubbers on the glass for me.. I came very well packed with lots of bubble wrap, would easily surzive a plane drop.. Well i wasnt expecting them untill next weekend so the install will have to wait.

Well I've bitten the bullet and ordered a pair of fixed rear windows for the old girl. Auto moulds and rubbers do a complete kit to change out the dreaded sliding ones,and you have to choice of fixed or sliding. I opted for the fixed as I'll be shelving the rear out for camping so it's less options for grubby fingers to get into the car.. So yea, $350 delivered ain't bad IMO and there on there way.. More details here. (it's the only detailed thread I can find) http://www.nissanpat...-rubber-new-lwb Install thread to follow.

Dam.. That's flex... And how is it on road? Could you put up pics of the front setup.

Your on for shits and giggles hay.. But back to sensible talk I've got a couple of other ideas I'm going to try along side the 2 stage burner.. But I wanna keep them close for a lil bit.

Well... FAIL.... I added double to the secondary burner and added 1/2 the secondary another 600mm up the flu. And I also welded the holes in the rear so only the ball valve is supplying air.. Well boy is it susceptible to wind.. If you fart I recon it would go out... Lol.. But it also only burnt for 15 mins and died.. And that's with a liter in it... But while it was running it was blowing more smoke than before. But I could see the tertiary working well, the flame was reaching it but not burning past it.. So it's looking ok so far.. So I don't think my flu is the issue.. I think the primary is not burning well enough.. So I'm going to implement my next induction idea once I scorce the parts threw the rest of the week. Till then. Happy tinkering..

Well I'll guess we'll see tonight how much if a difference it makes. Holes have been slotted so there are double now.. And stuff it. I'll stick the tertiary burners there to.. The flu was free... Lol As for a welder. I say stick to your brand name ones. WIA, BOC, CIG. If you feel the urge Lincon or Fronius are top line, but a price tag to match... As I said, expensive doesn't mean better. One option is a small inverter stick tig machine. That's what I have but minus the tig torch. Options are endless, just think about your needs.

I was thinking along the lines of a tertiary burner. I was going to double the secondary and then add another lot of slots 1 meter higher. So it'll look like near Swiss cheese... Lol I just have to wait untill the weekend to go sorce the flu. IMO, although a tig and plasma cutter are nice there not really needed. Start with a nice mig welder. You can run alloy and stainless in migs. If your intentions are to do exotic materials get a pure argon bottle aswell as the argosheild (mig gas). I'm intending on building a snorkel, rear bar and Lang range fuel tank with no more than a 5' and stick welder. You just have to take your time and be clean. TIG does take a bit to learn, and plasma needs a decent air compressor to back it. Just something to think about..

Well I'm only guessing the water is there due to the crackle in the burner.. But tonight it is a clean burn and crackle.. So I will still let it settle to see if there is any water before I start. Another question Glort. Would you thin the oil before filtering, or after?

And another for shits and giggles

And we're glowing.. Have been fiddling with the hole pattern on the rear... And although I found a triangle pattern works best, I can't shut it down... It seams to be working fine with just the 1' ball valve and I can control it.. So tomorrow night I'll weld all the holes up, cut more slots in the secondary as its still smoking a bit and I have flames jumping half a foot out the top and see how we go.. Also no crackle tonight? Maybe it was the left over wash out water??

I'm taking about WMO Glort. The drum I have found has a nice basketball size curve in the base. So I was hoping I could slowly drain off the water from the lowest place. Hopefully a little each morning and night. And then start filtering..

Well I bought the 1Mn filter before I went to bed but at $23 delivered for 5... If I use one every 100L I'm still in front. Hopefully I'll get the resting barrel tonight. It's a 70L translucent so hopefully I can see the water, drain it then start the filtering process. Any idea what oil water is good for? Not the burner like I was hoping?

Holy duck shit batman.. 12L/H!!! That'll warm ya water. Sounds like a turbine... Lol Father inlaw was talking about a rocket burner but with wood. Sounds interesting. But a weird concept.. So more holes in the flue it is.. And thanks for the hint of the water. I thought it was the impurities. So of to resting it is. Hopefully I can get a resting container today.

Ok. So a 10' 1 micron should be fine. So you don't think a 20-30 filter is needed?

well im a happy chappy dont mind the smoke coming off the drum.. just paint burning.. it cleared up after an hour.. With Mk1 it stopped burning with about 1/2 a liter left in the bottom. But with Mk2 and it's smaller chamber it burnt 100% of the oil. Still have a good layer of soot in the flu, and it isn't glowing yet.. I still think I'm down on the air flow. Will try a new thing Im thinking of which is 2 1' ball valves into a 2' outlet. This is going to look one mean burner..

Blocked fuel filter..

How many L does a poly filter usually last Glort? I'm thinking of grabbing the 20' 5 micron for the final, shopping bag for primary. Is this enough or would you go a 30-40 micron filter in there?

Well it ran.. A solid hour but backfiring every minute or so.. The way I look at it is with the cuts facing down it creates the turbulence you were talking about. I will cut down the chamber (thinking 80-100mm lower) and put the main pipe to the centre and down.. Once it's going it roars... Live it.. Might have the whole house on WMO soon. Heat and car...