Glort

-IF- you go bush/ outback a lot, I think it would be safer to stick to a copper core radiator that you can solder up if you need to make a repair. Then again, I don't go bush or outback so you would also want to weigh up how common holed radiators are. if they are rare, then a can of bars lears etc may be insurance enough to get you back to civilisation. I holed an aluminium radiator before and thought I could get it welded up. When I rang some people that advertised ally rad welding they told me that was only for trucks because the ally in car radiators was too thin to work with. I know ally does radiate heat a lot better than copper which was against what I thought. Also the one in the pic seems to have nice large end tanks and the total volume in a rad can be a benifit over a smaller volume as well. The one in the pic has lots of flat mounting surfaces so I would be trying to mount the thing with the best contact to the support panel to use that as a heat sink as itself. I have seen some race buggy setups where the tube frame transports the water and acts as a radiator heat sink in itself allowing a smaller radiator to be used saving weight and allowing for more optimal location. I'm going to go the commodore radiator modification come the warmer months. Been looking into that some more and I like the idea of going with electric fans as well The commodore radiator is capeable of sinking over 4 times the output of the engine so will never run hot.

If yours is an NA like mine, that's what I have done. Drilled a 5mm Hole in the aircleaner lid right over the inlet and put the squirter right there. You don't need ( or can) pressurise the tank because there is no turbo. The VDO pump will squirt just fine. You'll also see when you start the WI the manifold insides are black and crappy fron the PCV gasses. After a tank or 3 ( especially with meth) you'll see the insides of the manifold look like someone polished them. Imagine how the head, valves piston crowns and ports look! After the water runs out the car still feels a lot peppier but in time if you leave the water empty the performance will have definately tapered off by the next tank.... on veg at least. The performance will then stabilise at something a lot more flat. The rubber laying effect is significantly reduced/ eliminated. The improvement in driveability off the juice is exaggerated with meth. The engine feels peppier for a lot longer and is a lot more pronounced. What the physical action is that's taking place to cause that I have no explaination. I would suggest that it is the engine running cleaner but I can't imagine the thing being fouled to that degree so quick when off the squirt as to lead to that much performance drop off. More over if it was fouling, the engine would stop within a couple of tanks so I don't see the engine internals being cleaner the whole explaination at least. Someone did suggest to me once that they thought it may have something to do with the exhaust and mufflers that the WI cleaned and then sooted up to a cetain level. That does hold a bit more likleyhood to me. I worked out a while back ( and providing memory is not failing me) that the extra energy from a 50/50 meth mix @ 300ml minute is conservatively 14Hp worth of extra fuel. Now that should take into account efficency losses and be pretty close to what you actually get at the flywheel. The other thing is how dialed up your engine is in the first place. Every diesel I have got my grubby mits on has been way underfueled from the factory. IF you have an IP thats not giving the engine all or near all the fuel it can burn, you'll get a big hit out of the WI just through the fueling effect. If you have it close to the amount of air the engine can cope with, then you may not be able to burn all the fuel and the effect won't be as great. I notice less of an effect since I turned my IP up but that's because I'm getting more power already. With a turbo where you could add fuel and keep the EGT's in check, then you'd really be able to get some benifit! The cleaning effect or whatever it is has on driveability however is significant on or off the juice so is well worth while there. Engines that haven't had water before also seem to have the most significacant and rapid improvement. My merc was transformed in the first couple of tanks of WI I used but i noticed very slight but constant improvements for about 3 months after the WI was fitted. The troll didn't have the same drawn out time frame. It took a few weeks to hit peak and that was it. Of course time is proportional to water pumped through. I may have been able to clean my engines well and truly in 4 hours with a drive up the country and a 20L tank of water/ meth. The most fun is the first few hits with the WI on. You'll see great clouds of black crap coming out the exhaust every time you hit it. Should only do it a few times though then the main crap must be gone and the rest is released more subtley. I had the WI running richer to start to the point of just stumbling after a while so it was cleaning best and then backed it off after a few tanks. You'll also notice yourself driving like a hoon flat out through the gears as the extra power gets addictive. One thing also to be aware of with the meth..... Again depending on the engine tune, you may get some nailing or rattling with the meth. This is either because you are running too high a mixture or just pumping in too much volume. Personaly I like to keep the volume up as it aids cleaning and cooling and just dilute the water/ meth mix. For those chasing power, you would want to stay at the 50% mix, ( don't go over, you are just fueling with Meth instead of diesel then) and ajust the volume. On my cheapo system, restricting flow is just a matter of pulling the zip tie around the line to the nozzle a click or 2 tighter. No expense spared I tell you. And In case I missed it before: Make sure you water tank is BELOW the level of your nozzle so the water can not syphon into your engine when it is shut off. A twit on another forum missed that obvious bit of engineering and then bitched at me that WI was no good and caused his engine to bend a rod. No idiot, your setup was no good and your stupidity caused your engine to bend a rod.

Well, a lot of hot younger chicks are only good for one thing and after the novelty of that wears off and as an older bloke you are too tired for anything but conversation, Hot and young soon becomes Dumb and irratating. If your Mrs dosen't have her phone in her hand twitting on facewaste 24/7 be happy fella, REAL happy! Anyway, post up a pic of your wife. She probably is hot and you are just taking her for granted where other's of us here would be a lot more appreciative. And as for the Burger, my Mrs is hot and young at heart at least enough for me. Now, If the damn burger made her Taller, I would sell the house and buy a franchise, no question. Not a single damn day goes by where I don't ask myself what on earth possesed me to marry such a short arsed woman.

In regards to Methanol, you can get it in Sydney for around $200 per drum. What I have been using however is ethanol. There are a few servos around that sell that new E85 Crap. I put 20L in a 25L drum, add 5L of water, give it a shake and you get a nice separation of ethanol and petrol in 10 min flat. Decant the Ethanol water mix for your WI and you have some clean petrol for blending with or putting in the mower, chainsaw or whatever without the thing pulling moisture out of the air. I even wash my petrol that way now to get rid of the ethanol. The E85 is a bit over a buck a litre last time I bought it. I -think- only caltex have the E85. As for the Nozzles, I have always maintained that micro atomisation is not required for Cleaning purposes. Now after looking at some vids yesterday, I question the requirement for it at all. When the water is sprayed in an inlet, some, maybe a lot is going to hit the sides of the inlet tube where it will coaleace into much bigger drops. Like as if the the water was dribbled in there in the first place. Some will evaporate in the air and depending on the spot where the water was injected and the ambient air temp/ humidity, the rest of the water may as well. It's just not going to evaporate in the micro drops the WI companies make out. To say that the micro fine drops are essential and to pay for high pressure pumps to atomise it like that I am certain is both unessacary and a waste of money. It may well be why my garden nozzles and low pressure pumps work as well as they do.... because in practacality and what takes place inside the engine/ inlet tract, the water may in fact be doing the exact same thing. The only possible difference I can see is wether the water is all evaporated by the time it hits the cylinder or not. If it is, then all the heat has been pulled out of the inlet charge. If it hasn't, then the cooling effect may be happening in a different place inside the engine. Either way, I think effect on EGT's would be the same. To blast water into a 3-4" pipe at 100PSI plus and then think it all is carried off in the airstream before hitting the pipe wall and condensing into much larger drops ( Than a garden spray would create in the first place and be the same as the drops from the low pressure nozzle if it did hit) is complete and utter marketng hype and BS to me. The reason the water goes into a fine mist is because it breaks up in the air over distance. Even with a strong airflow, I can't see the water going into that fine a mist in an enclosed space. The water would still have a far greater density and speed that the air ever would and unless the air was super heated, there is no way it's not going to condense to some degree ( probably a greater one ) on the inlet wall particularly on the bends and curves where the velocity will give it inertia to keep going straight. I think this would be real easy to test. Disconnect the pipe from your turbo to another bit of pipe with the mist nozzle inserted. Rev engine, activate WI and see if ther is the same fine mist or drops forming and dribbling out. I know which one you ae going to see! Like I said, this 500PSI mist stuff is all complete bunk in practacality. While I don't know what the power increase I see in My 4.2 NA engine with the meth is, I can tell you this much, you notice it! Mine is torquey enough to have to watch how you peddle the thing out of corners or you will break traction. You can also pop the clutch in 2nd with some revs on board and lay rubber and once the wheels are spinning they will stay spinning right through the gear. None of this chirping and dying, it keeps laying the rubber. CERTAINLY won't come near that without the water/ Meth or with water on it's own. The thing also revs through the gears much cleaner and smoother right to the end where it normally chokes and is smoking. I think this is to do with the fact the methanol has it's own oxygen. It's sure getting better burning from somewhere. Bog, To stay with the cheaper washer pump and Nozzle on a turbo, the trick is to use a pressurised water tank. If you feed boost pressure to the water supply, then this effectively neutralises what the pump has to work against. Whats a cheap and easy to come by tank for this??? Ford radiator overflow tank. I think some commodores amoung others used a similar system. Basicaly any car that dosen't have a radiator cap on the radiator itself. You feed a line above the water line ( turn the tank on edge if need be) to a boost Pressure signal so when the turbo spools up, the water reserve is pressurised. That way the water pump is seeing a neutral resistance against the boost pressure at the nozzle outlet. No need for a solenoid to stop the water being pushed out after the boost event, the pressure will bleed off straight back to the manifold the same way it came in. You can secure the 4mm lines for the water with ziplocks. It's only 35 PSI on a small line. This is from a ford. There are others similar with better layout of the connections for our purposes but I can't remember what models they are from. have a look through the wreckers stock. There are also some small tanks from motorbikes that will do the same thing. The other thing to remember witht he commodore/ VDO pumps is they will put out 35 PSI. Yep, don't look like it but thats what they do when measured! No doubt the flow rate with a garden nozzle would be slowed however that may be a good thing with some setups. Still would give them 20PSI over the boost pressure a lot of people are running. 60PSI diaphram pumps are cheap and easy to get but you would want to check you flow rate as it might be too high with these pumps unless you added in a needle valve with a bypass which would give you a tuneable system. To switch the WI at a predetermined boots level, you would use an ajustable pressure switch like this to control where the system kicked in. http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649 So, don't you all forget to do some pics and report your successes with this so I can send you an invoice for the intelectual property Licence! Actually if you do it and save some bucks on buying a system, how about sending a few bucks to the forum owner? I should put this on Youtube and sell the Yanks " Plans". Some of them are 2 stupid to know how to nail 2 bits of wood together.

This seems like sheer idiodicy to me. Faceache can get fked as far as I'm concerned. I tred looking at it over the last few weeks to geting touch with some people that never check their emails and I can barely use it and certainly don't understand it or why the hell people are so obssessed with it. My kids literally can't go to the crapper without phone in hand to look at the rubbish. Youtube I like. I have learnt a lot of things through that and its a great learning resource. But it works just fine on machines I have running XP, server 2008 and Win 7. What I don't get is why you would corrupt an entire OS for entertainment purposes. The way I see it, the people that are the ones that realy support MS are business. They are the ones that pay for licences for their machines. anything from a few to tens of thousands. The home users and a lot of the propeller heads that are going to be the most likley facecrap and you toob users are also the ones most likley NOT to pay for a licence and just download something from the net and run that. I think that businesses and Gubbermint departments whom have thousands of machines are going to be very reluctant to install an OS that requires them to retrain their staff on how to use it. Even when retrained. productivity is going to take a massive hit till they get up to speed on it and some of them after doing things the same way for years will never reach their former productivity levels. I do a bit of work with a charity to whom a certain medium size gubbermint department donat their computers from their sydney and Canberra offices. They get THOUSANDS of them. Literally pallet loads at a time. I don't know how many people have ever seen maybe100 pallets of computers on their own ( no cardboard boxes) staced in a warehouse but it's a pretty amazing site just in the realisation of how many of these things there are around. This is from one Gubbermint department alone and to think of them even retraining the staff that get these machines is amazing. The catch I suppose will be when MS cans 7 and the only available OS is windoze 8. It will be a matter of go to another OS and retrain on that anyway or spend a fortune on the new one. I wonder how MS will go with it's customer service and service contracts? That will create some powerful bad blood as well. Maybe MS will start selling server licences by the Million as that is not a great jump from XP or 7 and with a custom install, would be almost seemless. Plus in my experience of using it just on a workstation duties machine, It's a lot more stable than anything else including 7. I just don't understand why they are forcing people to do thinkgs their way instead of give them a choice and get have a lot more satisfied customers. Surely to Christ they must realise not everyone is obsessed with facefaeces and why the hell would companies want their employees wasting more of their time on it? I wonder if there is a way to eliminate it or they will just block access through the network and then Fk up microsnots obsession anyway. And besides, wasn't facewaste looking a bit Dicey as a company a few weeks back? what If the whole thing falls over? Surely it couldn't be that hard to have an OS compatible with the previous version in operation and then offer ( at extra cost even) a facewastetube version for the Kiddies who actually need some other features they can't get on existing OS's.

Is there a financial benifit to being in a green job or some other favourable aspect one can cash in on? I'd have to be green as a forest with my veg oil activities. Funny how the greenies get all bent out of shape when you tell them you are only doing it for the savings not the environment.

A vid I found of a Water inhection test. http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alcohol-injection-videos.html

WOW, Small world. I have watched a few of your vids before. You certainly have a great setup for someone who's " Not an expert". Those Fuges sure have come down in price. They are made in my postcode but it was still cheaper for me to buy from the states than what they would sell them to me for. I might look at getting one now. Not sure though. I set one up a mate bought for doing his Bio. Spun up some of my oil and the amount of material it removed was too small to bother with really. It was also the mega fine stuff that you could only see in a clumps and I was quite confident would pass right through the fuel system anyway. Even if it didn't, it would take a lot of oil to block a filter which is what I basicaly experience. Given the reduced prices of the fuges, They may be worth another look. My current system does a great and perfectly adequate job but fuges are the holy grail of filtering. Do you get much out of the fuge that the Filter bag leaves behind? If you have the ability to do so, the longer you leave the oil settle the better. I have about 5-6000L in storage of any time mainly in IBC's and try to use the oldest. The longer you leave it, the more crap drops out and the less cleaning you have to do. It's the perfect lazy mans sport! I use the same filter bags you do atm and if I don't get 2000L through a 1Um bag before it slows down, I have done something wrong. When I got the oil and filtered it straight away, I could clog a bag in 400L. Pre settling makes a HUGE difference. You may also find that if you get the oil and put it on your burner and heat it then let it settle and pump off the top, the heating will thin the oil and speed up the settling process. Yesterday I was setting up a keg to run the oil through to heat it up. I have a burner of a similar design to yours and another I built through the week which I'll use on the veg heater. I need to up the production rate again and heating the veg makes it dry much more quickly and filter easier as well. Like you I process in a 44. what I want to do is take off from the pump I use and push oil through the keg which will be sitting over the burner thats punching out about 100Kw and circulate it through to warm it up. This will also give me another 50l capacity per batch. Maybe I should hook in another 44 and double my capacity? Now I have myself thinking! Are you adding in the petrol before you run the oil in the fuge? You will loose a lot doing it that way as the fuge will evaporate it. You would be better to heat it for thinning then add the petrol after. You'd want to leave a door open in your shed when you are running the fuge with the oil petrol blend or the floor of your shed could look like a launch site. Speaking of which, with cracking the oil, it's perfectly safe. If you use a drum / retort / tank which has only one outlet and no way of oxygen getting back in, it cannot explode. That's how modern car fuel pumps run the petrol right through the motor brushes. I run the vapor through a transmission cooler as a condensor and the output bubbles up through water. This condenses all the vapors, provides airlock and gives a visual indication of the vapor being produced. The product floats on the water and drains off the top into another container. As the water and fuel won't mix, it's easy to seperate the 2. That said, I'm also thinking of using cleaned Veg instead of the water so I have no contamination at all and a fluid with a higher working temp. Given your oil is from diesel engines, there would be plenty of the lighter fractions to draw off if you did crack it.

Yeah, that's an aspect a lot of people over look... "what if something breaks " Yeah well, I save enough for another engine every year and I'm 6 years into it now, so what? You must be doing something right though. seems there is trouble with these engines running diesel. The fact you are successfully running a sump blend is impressive. How long and how many Km you done so far on it? I'd be very interested to hear more about your setup and what you do. If you can run sump oil, no reason why these engines couldn't run Veg although I never percieved they could. There was a guy I used to email in the states who was running an 80% WMO / petrol mix in an old ford PETROL engine. Reckoned the only problem he had was fouling plugs every 6 months but used to clean them and put them back and they were good. One day he decided to splurge and buy new plugs and found the ones he had been using were the wrong heat range. he decided to go a heat range hotter than standard and had been going 20 months when I last spoke to him and hadn't had the plug fouling problem since. Sump oil can be very thick. The bit that would concern me more than the IP would be deposits in the engine and rings. If you burn sump oil say in a spoon over a buner flame, you get left with a lot of crusty deposits and ask. You get some with veg too but in my mucking around, there is a lot more in sump oil. I think this is where WI would have the most potential benifit for you... Removing any left behind coking and hopefully eliminating any chance of stuck rings. I think If I was forced to use something different to veg the one I'd try would be Used tranny oil. Much thinner than WMO and I think it would be cleaner to handle. From what I have reaqd the viscosity doesn't change as much as Veg or sump oil when heated. There is a big transmission place up the road from me and every time I'm stuck in the traffic out front I think to myself, " I must go inn there one day and see If I can get some used fluid and have a play with it" but then I forget about it till the next time I'm sitting out the front stuck in traffic again. It would be interesting to run some viscosity tests on the tranny fluid and see how it compares to veg. Have you ever looked into cracking the sump oil and turning it back into diesel or petrol? There is a lot on the net about it and it's easy enough to do. Basicaly you boil the stuff, superheat the vapors and then re-condense them. If you do the process without the superheating you get a lighter fractioned oil. the superheating brings it back to diesel or petrol. I have been playing with cracking Veg oil. I can get a very light product out of it that is nearly flameable from it's own vapor like petrol but not Quite. I'm sure I could get a petrol substitute if I condensed it at the right temp. Seems like a much easier and simpler way to get a more diesel like product from veg than doing the bio process. Would be a hell of a lot cheaper as well. Apparently plastic also also cracks down nicely to petrol or diesel being that the stuff is made from oil.

My condolences. I can't begin to imagine how your mate feels. One thing I have been thankful for is that I have never lost more than one person at a time. A guy that used to do my wedding Videos lost both his parents in a car accident. Crying for the loss of one person is bad enough, pretty sure I would not manage two at once. I found out on thursday at the funeral that another Aunt and uncle are not doing well at all. They were not up to the travel to come to this one. Uncle' s cancer has flared up again and my Aunt has numerous age related problems. There is real concern in the family for them. I was thinking 4 for the year would be bad enough, never entered my Mind 6 may be a real possibility. Getting Older Sucks. It really does. We are planning a family get together in August in Cowra which is the town my family came from and a few are stil there. I'm hoping there is no cause for an unscheduled get together before hand.

Couldn't agree more. Like Sydney water in their last application to the pricing tribunal to increase water prices. They argued that after encouraging everyone to put rain water tanks on their house because they were chit scared their mismanagment would lead to Sydney running dry, They were now loosing so much revenue because people were using so much less plus the predicted years of rain ahead would mean less garden watering and they would be watering from the rain tanks anyway. The application before they argued they needed to put the price up to make people use less, then they argued they had to put it up again because people were now doing what they actually wanted. And that's not uban myth or twisting the story, I have PDF files of both applications where they state this and I believe these applications can still be downloaded off the sydney water site. I think their should be special laws concerning anything to do with green mentality, save the planet or anything else enviromental. LIke in the case of this crock of chit house, unless you can prove and Justify the thing uses less energy or is more sustainable or whatever your BS claim is, then you can't say it is or you face heavy fines for " Crimes against the environment". That ought to sort some of this green crap out.

I thought the heater was gas and what the bottles were used for .

Do you do straight or blended mixes? I have to admit Sump oil even though I have heard of it does seem a bit " out there" which is hypocritical seeing what I run my car on! I was going to try sump oil but I didn't get far. Veg can be messy stuff to work with but Sump oil is on a whole other level from what I have seen. I try to be clean but still end up with spills and sump oil is difficult to clean up unless you can process it on a dirt or gravel area. Sump oil to me seems even more prone to leaving deposits than veg oil so I think WI could be a good precautionary measure against any coking or buildup.

I think that is irelevant Ray. I believe it is mere rubbish to make the place sound impressive. Sounds better than saying It won't run a washing machine or electric iron, microwave or god forbid, a clothes dryer. Did you miss it Ray or were you just building up the irony? See this Pic right above the back door. If that isn't the ultimate mockery and hypocracy of what this house purports to be, I don't know what is. More feel good greenie Bullchit at its Finest/ worst. Clearly these clowns don't have the first idea what they are talking about or don't actually care. It appears to me the place is NOT double glazed. You mentioned yourself in another thread you found pulling the curtains helped. Can you imagine the heat loss of all that single pane glass? Given the place is up off the ground, I'd also like to know if the floor is insulated? If not, that would make the place akin to a lunchbox in an esky without a bloody big fire to keep it warm. Given the answers to the previous 2 questions, I'd say it's complete and utter green Bullchit of the most insulting kind. That heater is beyond a joke and so is the mention of this place in the same sentance as sustainability. I'd like to know how big those panels on the roof are? They don't look to be 5KW to me. I'd also like to know how they mow all that lush green lawn. Spose if you have no problem with an outdoor heater a petrol powered Lawnmower is not worth a passing thought. How can a place be fully solar powered when it has a backup generator and 45 KG gas bottles?? I think I'll put a single $5 solar cell on my roof and then run everything else off a diesel generator and say it's the worlds most efficent solar house and runs off just one single solar cell! These people must think everyone else is an idiot.

This is what I am looking to do with my oil burner. It's a backyard job and I wouldn't trust the thing in the house in a pink fit although with testing it's never gone wrong and I cannot see how it would. Not being a combustion engineer there are probably 50 ways for something undesirable to happen which is why I want it outside where I can prevent any risk through different stratigies. I'm thinking ultimately of using a 1000L IBC or my pool to store heated water so I can run the heater when I'm around to supervise it and then just run the circ pump when asleep so everything was safe. I have 100% confidence in my abilty to run braze water pipes so they will not leak, especially seeing they will be under very limited pressure. Not so confident in my ability to build a 100% accident proof waste oil burner. My intention was to use the pool as a thermal mass which would give year round swimming ability and a warm house as well! With a suitable cover to stop heat loss ( have a piece from a council pool that was ripped put away) The idea was to just fire a large heater once or twice a week and bring the temp much higher than normal and just circulate the water to heat the home from that. What the hell was the pool made of??? Surely concrete wouldn't respond kindly to haveing water on one side and a fire on the other? I'd think it would explode bits off till there was a hole. Can't think of any other pool construction material you could light a fire under and I have never heard of a metal shelled pool.

I know in sydney this has already happened in some council areas. Amazingly I know blue mountains council was one of them but not sure if it got through in the end. I also know My aunt and uncles council were trying to do the same thing. They are at Casino. It was all due to the green madness. They are on country property where they couldn't hear the neighbours house explode even if they can see some in the distance so no chance of offending smoke but still the council tried it on. Looked so likley to go through at one stage my uncle installed an electric hot water heater. Previously they used the solar boosed by the wetback on the stove in winter and the solar only in the summer or they could light a small fire to heat the water on wet days. Had it like this for 20+ years they have been in the place. I haven't been up there since last year when the water heater was connected and plumed in temp with the stove but they were stll using the wood stove then. How the fk these green morons think burning coal 500KM away to generate power to heat water is more eco friendly than burning wood that has fallen on the ground anyway at the point of use to make hot water is beyond me. I said to my uncle, get a copy of the regs and if there is nothing about burning sump oil, we'll modify the stove to burn that and have it smoking like an Iraqui oil well and then invite the green possessed councilours around so you can show them how you have converted the stove from the banned wood fuel to something the ordinances see as acceptable. Arsewholes

It was my understanding that many flues were made of an inner and outer tube to shield the points where they passed through roofs etc from the heat. I know not all are like that but I was of the belief most new ones were for saftey reasons as well. Flexible Aircon ducting is also double walled with a layer of insulation in between. I have installed and removed miles of it and have a heap of it here. It has to be insulated otherwise you'd have a fridgid ceiling and a boiling house and Ducted air would be completely unviable especially in commercial premises. I'd be surprised if you ran hot air from one end of the house to the other if you lost more than 2 o of temp once the inner ducting itself warmed up which wouldn't take long at all. I don't know about the wood consumption of the stoves. All I know is my aunt and uncle are both in their mid 70's now and use wood off their own place and have not seem to have a problem keeping up with the wood demand. Maybe the newer ones are more efficent that the one you had experience with. Inany event, on those stoves a small modification to allow them to run waste oil could be worthwhile. I think if one had a source it would be a lot easier to pump that around than cut wood especially in qty.

Zd 30 would be no trick. If you wanted to use my cheap and cheerful method you would spray onto the air filter or get the diagraph pump ( seen them advertised for $30) and go post turbo. Don't know if the garden nozzle would be near fine enough for safe pre turbo ( whether that is a real concern or not.) A mate set one up post intercooler and I have seen on his temp gauge that the water drops the inlet temps 80oC and more. The parts for the system would be a pump, hose nozzle and switch. As above for injection point on an SD t and pumps. I have some boring pics of mine somewhere but they ae just the pump and the nozzle location. It really is too simple to go wrong. That's how I managed to be able to set them Up!

I use the Pope Brand Microjet Mist spray nozzles. Come in a Pkt of 10 I think for about 6-7 bux from bunnings. The flow rate on the VDO pumps I use is around 250- 300Ml Minute. Depends how much washer hose you use. The flow rate is not critical as long as you don't go overboard and put the fire out. If the engine stumbles when the water kicks in you need to back it off. anything under that is good for long term cleaning purposes. Contrary to what I have read on a lot of sites, you can pump a LOT of water into a diesl before yourisk any damage. A friend accidently pumped 1.5LITRES a minute into his navara and had water coming out the exhaust but the engine was fine. You couldn't flow that much water with a washer pump so I guess that's an inbuilt safety feature. I have used this flow rate on Both my 3L mercs and the Mighty 4.2 and it seems pretty good for both. surprisingly in the testing I did, the 4.2 seems to have less capacity for the amount of water before stumbling than the 3L merc did. If I can find the packet of nozzles I'll scan them and put them up but I have seen them everywhere that sells the home irrigation stuff.There are also ajustable nozzles but they are pretty useless. The ajustment is so touchy they seem to go from full open to full closed with about 5 thou turn.

Went to my old mans place yesterday. He has a fairly new slow combustion fireplace. I didn't think the heat output was all that great even on high. He said there wasn't enough wood in the thing and turn on the fan. Even without more wood the thing started kicking some serious heat with the blower going. Went up the back to look at some things and when we came back in the kids and wife had loaded up the fire and the place was like an oven. Some pretty serious KW there. It also occoured to me whilst a Veg fired heater may serve the function of heating the place, the charm and visual comfort a fire brings is something a veg heater won't ever come near. I suppose if I got one in the next place in surburbia ( the wife is now keen on one) I could always do what I do with my wood fred Pizza overn and go to the factories and get old pallets to burn. Lot of work in cutting them up to size in the qty I would need. The old man has firewood everywhere at his place, not keen on carting it 300KM though may not be a lot of extra trouble if I'm going up there anyway. I have also read and seen vids of people with wood heaters with an oil feed into the things. Some drip it on the wood to make it go further and some put in pans and have a wood fire to get things hot then just run on the burning oil. It will certainly burn clean if the air fuel balance is right. These things on Ebay look good for improving efficency of a wood fireplace. Put them in the flue as a heat exchanger to capture waste heat out of the Chimminey. Possibly you could pit them in the ceiling enclose them, put a fan on one side and a duct on the other and take the heat off to another part of the house. Personally, I have been looking for one of these for years. My aunt and uncle in the country have one. Freaking awesome. You can cook the food on the thing, it warms the house with a gentle soft heat and it provides hot water as well. I really like the contrast of one of these in my relos kitchen. The place is very modern in styling and the wood fired stove is a bit more modern than this one but looks as well as functions great. They also have a conventional electric stove for summer. I have seen a number of these wood stoves set up to take waste oil as well as wood. My Uncle has it set up so when the water tank is up to temp, a sensor changes a valve and runs a very small circulator pump so the water then passes along pipes he put in the hall way in the extended skirting boards and up to a little radiator in their bedroom . The house is very long and wide so this really makes the whole place warm up. My fathers place is long as well and he was saying that the fire is at the other end of the house to his bedroom and it dosen't warm up that well so I suggested putting a fan above the fireplace and running ducting in the roof and putting a vent in the hallway near the bedroom door to warm the other end of the place like that. I have seen that done before in another house and it worked brilliantly.

Pretty much my exact experience with the things as well. They suck gas like it's going out of style. I made up a hose to fill the bottles from the servo. That was before the gas was taxed and the savings were much more . I believe a 45 Kg bottle is around $90 deliverd round here and it's 60 or 70 to fill a bottle from the servo. I have AC which is great but I should have my Veg oil burner / Heater ready to install next week. It's going to be an ad hock outdoor unit now seeing we will be moving and not overly efficent but with free fuel, I won't be too concerned. I built a new burner the weekend which I thought would be small enough for the Job. Unfortunately it exceedes design specifications by a factor of about 4. Might try to do a smaller one this weekend. I'll probably just run it on the slops I pump from the bottom of my settling tanks. Filter out the chunks and dry out the water. One way to get rid of the dregs I wouldn't put in the vehicles. My ultimate DIY goal is to set up a Lister CS or one of my Merc engines as a co-gen system. Use the heat from the cooling water and exhaust as a heat source and run the AC from the power it generates. I might also be able to use a semi hermetic or try a couple of car compressors or something from a reefer to direct drive off the engine. The challenge in the project would be not so much making it work but packaging it up into a reliable, clean and quiet enough system not to look stupid in a home. Once it was going I'd never have to be hot or cold again!

I find it pretty funny when you mention water injecion and like what you were talking about with the attitudes on some forums, someone has a shot at you saying it's stupid to put water in an engine and why do you think vehicles have water traps and all the other superlative ignorance they display. Like you say, it's been done forever and in an amazing variety of engines from ships to aircraft. I would like to find more on it in relation to diesels. Mainstram stuff is about power and controlling EGT's and the only cleaning refrences I can find relate to ships running bunker oil. They depend on it so much some have a sort of dual injector that fires water and fuel at the same time. Still, I suppose if water will shift something akin to tar it's hard to argue it won't shift far more minor deposits....although plenty have.

Dunno about others but I wouldn't have a clue about catergories most of the time. I just look at the new content since I was here last and have a read of what interests me. It's only when I go to post a new thread I look at catergories and frankly the less I have to look at to decide where is best to put something the better I like it. I wouldn't really care if there was only one catergory because the way I look at new posts that's the way it comes out anyhow and I pick what looks good from there. I was reading something Ray posted the otehr week on the 3L even though I don't have one. Wasn't relative to my engine but I found it to be a good and interesting read regardless.

I agree Ray. Unfortunately some of these things are not always achieveable. Even if you do follow the guidelines above deposits still may form. I have a merc engine here that has virtually no compression despite bing low mileage. It is the 2nd one I have seen coked up. These were on Veg oil but I think would have inevitable happened anyway. In both cases the vehicles were driven in city traffic and sudsequently idled for long periods of time. There is little to no opportunity to rev the things out or load them up in peak hour. At best the standard shift points on Mercs are low anyway so unless one actually holds the gears or manualy selects L to get first instead of 2nd on take off, they are going to loaf along. A couple of other makes I know are similar. Now one might argue that these vehicles are not right for the job that They are being asked to do and I'd agree with that too. The thing is I have done sooo many things wrong with my vehicles and never had a problem thanks to the WI. I believe my recent experience showed that without WI these practices would like Bite me on the arse. For one thing, I made 5 trips yesterday roughly 2 hours apart where on return, the engine in the patrol was barely up to temp. They are unavoidable pretty much although short, the trips are too far for my wife or kids to walk to work and there is no efficent transport to where they were going. When the car takes under 5 min each way and public transport is easily up to an hour, Short trips are something that will happen. I believe it is the use of the WI that allows me to do these less than desirable trips on a totally unsuitable fuel and get away with it. I have also read numberous times that the ultimate failure for many diesels is actually ring coking ( even when running Diesel) rather than outright mechanical failure. As I firmly believe WI prevent sticking rings if used regularly, The life of many diesels may be extended significantly. I don't have any proof of my beliefs, I have searched a lot for it but it does not seem people have done much along these lines with diesels. I'd love to have the time and money to do some documentd tests where I could strip and examine engines to do some documented testing on. I'm not one for imagineing things and what I have seen so many times wth WI tells me it is of great benifit. For the sub $20 setupcost, I reckon it's worth everyone giving it a go!

As some would know I have been a proponent of water injection for some years now. Runing vehicles on veg oil, the big but hugely overstated fear is the engines coking up due to the veg not burning properly. A while back the pump I use for the WI on my truck got rubbish in it and jammed. I was meaning to replace it but you know how things get. It was still running, out of sight, out of mind. Probably haven't had it going since the beggining of summer. The other week my old girl started running rough and showing all the signs of dropping a cylinder. That neck snappin, eye rolling Torque only a historical NA 4.2 can give had well and truly faded, She was starting to blow more visable smoke than usual and with 565 KM on the clock, I thought the end of her days may be coming. That said I also had in mind I had run a batch of oil substandard to what I would normaly have used. Some things gave me a reminder of the failed WI pump and that the problem may be the engine getting clagged up. The pump I run is the VDO windscreenwasher pump as fitted to commodores, BMW"s and some others. These pumps are capeable of well beyond their mere windscreen washer duties and have been tested over 24 hr periods of opeation with no loss of efficency. They are not however designed to pump grit or sand like I inadvertanly called upon mine to do. Anyway, a trip up to the wreckers and $10 Later I had another pump and fitted it up. Past experience had proven very significant increases in performance both of engine output and cleaning ability of the Water injection through the addition of Metho. Methanol or ethanol also seem to work fine, Methanol is my prefrance. Haveing sunk a hefty $10 into the guts of the system, the pump, I felt it only wise to keep the rest of the system standard on par and recovering a used 3L milk bottle from the recycle bin and washed it out, I had a fine water tank I could just squeeze in behind the left headlight. Again keeping to the system standard, used washer hose to a plastic garden irragation mist Nozzle I located through a small hole in the aircleaner lid right above the intake finished things off. Being a manual gearbox. To switch the system I wired the pump to the positive side of the battery and used the accelerator pedal to switch the earth. This is done by putting a strip of aluminium can on the plastic stop under the accelerator pedal and riveting it with an eye connector back to the pump. I use the pedal itself which I tested as earthed to make the circuit for the pump ground. I just filed the back of the pedal a bit to remove the paint and make sure I had a clean electricaly conductive surface. By putting a "U" shape bit of ally on the pedal stop, I can ajust the point at which the WI kicks in by bending the strip to the height I want. The strip will retain position even when it is squashed right down. Works just like a spring. With everything working the next day I had to do some running round and made sure to kick the wi in wherever possible. I could soon feel the difference the Water was making. The idle had smoothed out even about 10 KM from home with lots of hits of the water and clouds of black smoke coming out. At one point when I hit it hard through the gears I actually lost sight of the car behind me withthe dense black smog. I began to wonder If I would have a " how my 4.2 Grenaded " story to put up but it came good and I didn't get pulled over by the cops whichwas better still. At one point along the freeway the engine started knocking quite loudly on 1 cylinder. Given the thing had plenty of revving out through the gears, I thought I may have broken something. It was OK under load but when crusing or at the lights, it was very loud. Wasn't too worried, what was done was done and I got the thing cheap so couldn't complain. I also wondered if the WI was syphoning with the constant draw of the intake on the freeway. Unlikely but of the nozzle was really dripping, it may be possible that some water was entering a cylinder in big drops that detonated in the cylinder. After a while, the sound went away and I noticed that now when I revved the engine through the gears there was no noise or smoke at all. Usually there is some smoke as the pump is set high so I have no idea what it wasn't blowing some soot as It always does. Time I got home and had exhausted the water , she was already a different engine. 2L of water, 1L of meth, 3 hours, maybe 80KM. I refilled the bottle and used that over another few days and the thing is now purring like a kitten. The difference in engine sound is entirely different. I have also noticed the engine run on when I turn the thing off is waaaay less and it often shut down pretty clean now. I thought that was an I} solenoid issue but maybe not or only partially. I have also noticed when I have gone to start it on some of the coldest mornings so far, it lights easily and dosen't chug on a non firing cylinder for a few minutes. The torque is back up and the driveability is much nicer. Whatever it was the water cleaned out, it sure made a big difference. I have seen this before when I first got this truck and on other diesels I have owned. You tell people water injection is great but sometimes you forget what a big difference it can make until you do something like this that creates a sudden change over what you get used to when you run it all the time. Primarily my setup is to keep the engine clear of deposits from the veg oil. With the addition of Meth or ethanol there is a significant performance increase as well. I have also noticed that even when running water for a while on it's own, the car seems to run even better than with water alone after the meth mix is gone and you are back on water. I think the meth has some sort of extra cleaning power but have no logical idea or explaination for the physical actions that may take place over water alone as to why. I just know something happens and by the comments from my kids whom have no idea what I have been doing, it's something very clear in the way the car runs and sounds that isn't just wishful thinking or imagination on my part. There is a train of thought that the water has to go into the engine as a virtual fog or vapor which I don't subscribe to on a diesel NA engine for cleaning purposes. Due to cavitation efect, I believe for cleaning purposes, getting droplets into the engine is actualy better than having all the water evaporated before it hits the cylinders. For my wifes Turbo Diesel, I am still going to use the same relatively course spray nozzle and either inject post Turbo into the inter cooler, If I can find the right location I'll Inject post intercooler and until I have time to sort everytning properly I'm going to inject into the airbox onto the filter from the top. For the post turbo sites I'll use a 35-80 PSI Diaphram type pump as the VDO's will handle this pressure but I'm concerned about flow rate fall off bing too high. Whatever fine spray is drawn into the intake from there I am confident will evaporate before it hits the turbo and the rest will definately be drawn as a vapor. I'm thinking this system may hold merit in being able to inject more water over a longer time still using a simple on off system and without posing any danger to the turbo blades or the engine. In the cycle the engine is used where the thing may come onto significant boost at the top of one gear then much less to no boost after the change, by having the water delivery rate higher the engine may get to digest that water over a longer period than just a squirt down the neck at the end of the rev range. Wether the evaporated water is as effective long term in cleaning as the shot of droplets straight into the manifold is something I am yet to try and make a judgement on. For the moment it's a cheap and cheerful way to get some water into the thing till I get a chance and the time to do other things. It may be that I see signs it's fine like that and leave it. Anyway, IMHO water injection is the ducks guts for keeping engines ( and maybe exhausts) free of buldup and clag in diesel engines and even the most simple, rudimentary and cheap ass system can show significant and unmistakeable benifits and and improvements. It may have some benifit for the troublesome 3L engines as well. Sure as hell couldn't hurt if it dosen't help.