Rumcajs

Hi there, this is interesting because something similar is happening to another member. What other mods do you have? Asking because if ECU sees too much air coming in at particular engine load, RPM and TPS position it will go to limp in order to not pollute.... or keep the boost to about 10.5 psi until you reset with backing off the go pedal. There is no way around it unless drastic measures are taken like limiting boost, modding MAF signals or better going for ECU remap. Regards

Hi there, What is there is oil pressure sensor and the banjo stand off fitting and it is common cause of oil leaks. If you remove starter motor it is easier to get to but it is still a bastard job. You will need to replace copper washers on the banjo bolt stand off fitting (if in use) and be careful when re-tightening the sensor not to break it or loosen the banjo bolt stand off fitting again. I'll post some pics or if you search on this site in regards to oil pressure sensor and associated issues.... Oil pressure sensor size Regards

Which one? If they're same pinout and rating I can see why not. Regards

G'day, Disclaimer: I don't know wiring setup on Navara. On Patrol red wire comes out of pin 2 on pump side (9 pin connector) and is for CAN High (CAN-H) leading in to the Nissan style plug 6 pins (near intake manifold) pin 2 on the Nissan side becomes red with black tracers wire. Essentially that short harness is just patch lead to adapt to Nissan style plugs. Regards

Unfortunately no, that is not the case, indeed if you pay attention to ECU Talk logs you could see ICV% as high as 90 but only on engine deceleration under no fuel being consumed, which also means the timing adjuster (hydraulic) is not being used either. The way those figures come about is the higher the demand for fuel the lower the ICV% as the system can't keep up either because supply is compromised (filter blocked, air in the fuel) or internal lift pump can't pump fast enough (this is visible at lower RPM and higher demand for fuel during standing take off...) ICV% is basically a duty cycle of the solenoid and shown/displayed in reverse on VP44. The ECU is increasing the duty cycle to try to keep up with fuel delivery. as you pushing the "go" pedal down further to maintain the momentum. It could be possible that pressure relieve valve is faulty and unloads at lower pressure hence less fuel however this is more uncommon. The only way knowing is to rig up a pressure gauge before relieve valve to confirm it to be the case. This is why it is better to pressurize delivery line then being suction line, having "positive" head pressure is instantly noticeable when driving too especially at lower revs. I did my own anecdotal evidence where a hill I used to take in 4th gear at 60 km/h I can now take in 5th without the power output dying off/laboring. Regards

To get pump ECU self diagnostic mode on you will need to connect directly. I mentioned it in previous posts. See ==> https://www.mypatrol4x4.com/topic/1558-gu-zd30-di-hesitation-starting-issues/?do=findComment&comment=10624 Regards

Mate, I have dismantled that injection pump including its module and I really don't understand how you could remove the ECU module only (without removing pump) because it is all connected with cables with all the sensors and actuators, the RPM sensor is buried deep inside the pump for example and uses ribbon cable......I will try to find my photos when I had that fun on the bench that is. That company exist purely because many are unwilling to pay for the pump replacement/overhaul but if the ECU is at fault or its circuits. The ECU is sealed in some sort of resin just to scrape that to get to the soldered joint is a task. Also pay attention to which vehicles their offer applies, I see no Nissan Patrol or GR/Y61 there. You really need to get information from the actual pump module as to what its faults are and that will then tell you what the issue really is. If the vehicle has done over 250K kms then it is quite reasonably that it (Injection Pump)is in need of overhaul including replacing those idiotic injectors which are not repairable/serviceable and don't let anyone tell you otherwise those things go straight in to bin. Especially if it has been starved of fuel (remember uses fuel for cooling, lubricating as well as actuating and injection....) The ahole at Bosch responsible should be hanged by the nuts.... Regards VP44 Service Manual.pdf

It looks like the IP pump is having an issue, in any case having external lift pump is a good thing indeed it is criminal that Nissan decided against one so it can save money. Bosch has built provision for external lift pump so there is no excuse. I'd find Bosch Diesel fuel injection specialist to connect directly to the pump so the y can advise you better if the pump is dying (its inbuilt ECU probably has electrical cold joint somewhere, the net is full of videos about it) Carter 4600 pump has only one issue that is it is non through flow design in case of failure which means you need to install a bypass line as well. I went for Walbro FRB 13 series unit which has no such problem however I would go for FRB 22 which is now hard to find (I oughta got that one first!) for reason of keeping higher dead end pressure. I'm very happy with the Walbro because I can use it to prime the system when changing fuel filter and if it fails it stays flow through... The fuel spill/overflow line by-pass is easy to do, just need right fitings. So question is how far down the rabbit hole you wish to go? As for the ECUTalk, somewhere in the settings or when you click on the gauge it can be set to %, I can't remember where exactly or maybe I'm confusing it with my actual ECU Talk LCD unit where it is in the options.... Regards

Yes, leave spool up rate alone just play with Tilix to increase max boost. Only play with spool up rate if you struggle to reach the boost levels you are aiming for.... I had a quick look at ECUTalk logs.... You need to change log settings/sensors. Fir start: get rid off or untick the "useless" sensors like "spill valve", "cooling fan" (did you know that is completely useless as it only refers to A/C fan), " Exh/Gas Reg V", " Swrl Con S/V1", "Battery", "Fuel Temp" Secondly change format of TPS (Throttle) from Voltage to % (percentage) as that is much easier to colerate. Add vehicle speed gauge to logging. Remeber the less gauges to log the better so if you are tracing MAFs issues you don't really need to log coolant temp or VNT Turbo S/V (that one is completely irrelevant now cause ECU is not controlling it, it guesss anyway). One concerns is extremely low " Inj Timg C/V" values in your log, that indicates poor fuel delivery in to the IP. Its either compromised suction side of the fuel lines incl filter or vanes lift pump inside the IP is worn out perhaps. At idle it should be around 50%.....I can't only imagine what they're under full load...(The lowest I noted in your log is 14% which is/has IP damage inevitable.) The consequences of leaving will be the failure of the IP as fuel is used not only for injection but also for lubrication and hydraulic function of the timing adjuster....... I'd seriously look in to adding external fuel lift pump but don't forget you must change the fuel overflow line otherwise major damaged will occur. As for the MAFs they don't look that high but the corelation with TPS%, RPM, Speed, and ICV% will help understanding the engine load therefore explains some values.... Regards

Spool up rate can be left as is (needle valve is not reponsible for max boost attained to a degree). I don't think the dampener has any effect, if it is leaking or is blocked it would struggle to boost as actuator would be slow to move. The temp gauge should do something when you disconnect the temp sensor. It will either go down to min or max depending on what of sensor it is. If you short the wire to ground directly it should have similar effect. Regards

Yeah if you can attached or PM me that would be great. 15 psi is actually not that high, thats factory setings. Spool up rate is the key. You should aim at having boost ~ 10 psi when RPMs are bellow 1700 and mid throttle and max it out to 18psi above 3500+ RPM for safety. I have Tilix valve on mine and I can hit 16+ psi bellow 2000 RPM if too heavy on the go pedal so I keep an eye on that one. (No faults though) I actually wonder of the Tilix valve is set up properly and actually backing off the turbo vanes, if not I'm not surprised that MAFs code is coming up, essentially no boost control! To set up needle valve you start with closed and open it up carefully until VNT actuator starts moving up (engine idling). That should be your base from which you can open it more if you wish to experiment but it must small increments. How did you setup Tilix? Do you have boost gauge or air pressure regulator (bench setup) to check its opening pressure? Mine is setup to open fully at 22 psi. Anyway, I'm still curious to that strange behaviour of the temp gauge. Regards

I think it is electrical, especially if the temp gauge is moving as you've described, cause the temp sender grounds against engine block (its single wire type), it is in a bit of tight spot but if you disconnect it read should change either to max or min depending what type it is. If the grounding is a problem due to the movement of the engine that would affect every engine sensor and IP. Regards

0705 code is a worry and a dreaded one for sure, indeed that will shut the engine down however I still think there is a problem somewhere else especially "when I accelerate the gauge goes down towards "C" but when I let off the accelerator, it goes back up to operating temperature towards "H". Yes. Its been a while since I've done ECUTalk logging, there should be tick/check option for that. The key is not to select too many gauges while logging as well. There is also an option to just do the logging without displaying gauges (better). https://www.ecutalk.com.au/images/ecutalk_v1.3_sensors.jpg If you still have original intercooler it is easy to see where it leaks as there will be traces of oil and dust around the leak spots.... As for resonator probably just visual check or temporary blanking off the hose. Regards

G'day, If you gonna do ECU remap (I'm only familiar with the one in Australia) so then there is no need for Dawes/needle valve combo. Blanking EGR is recommended purely on health reasons of the engine nothing else but that will cause boost spikes so either remap or alternative means of controlling the boost is required. Given that vehicle has done 160k stock I'd remove intake manifold and clean it properly off all the carbon sludge deposits in there after catch can is fitted and EGR is blanked. Regards

G'day, Malfunction is detected when ... * An excessively high voltage from the mass air flow sensor is sent to ECM when engine is running. Check Items (Possible Cause) *Air duct *Charge air cooler *Variable nozzle turbocharger control system *Variable nozzle turbocharger *Mass air flow sensor * Harness or connectors (The mass air flow sensor circuit is shorted.) So what above means is not MAF sensor first! Since you have modified the way spool up rate and turbo control operates it means that mechanically the system is not responding to what ECU is expecting. What you really need to know is when that voltage is high and what levels it gets up to. Using ECUTalk you should be able to log unusual voltages vs RPM and TPS. I'd make sure the ground to MAF and engine is correct first. When it comes to oil in the intake, the MAF is susceptible to it but you would have to have so much oil in there that it would be easily noticeable. Is air cleaner good/OK? have you checked that there is no issue on the intake pipe (leak) or you have issue on boost side? How does a boost hose/s look like? Are they swollen soaked with oil? How is resonator just next to the air filter? Is the intercooler intact? To me this looks like mechanical issue. Electrical fault in the MAF unit usually generates 0102 DTC....

G'day, I strongly urge you to just use factory boost controller solenoid first with your remap ECU. There is really no point to have needle valve and or Tilix in there as all the limits were removed. If you want to experiment then OK but it is kinda not needed. You could include Tilix valve with factory boost solenoid to limit max boost I guess: Tilix valve/Dawes valve have same principle. Or if feeling adventureous you can remove factory boost controller completely: But you will need to fiddle with right adjustment of needle valve and that takes time; trial and error! Here is my setup: I progressed through all above stages eventually but that was before I got remapped ECU. I left it there cause its there otherwise factory boost control is sufficient once the limits are removed..... Regards

Well technically yes that would be correct however it is a very tight spot to fit aftermarket sensor in there if there is already one fitted (Series 4 onwards). Regards

I would caution you about fiddling with the grub screw on the turbo charger. It is normally set up to optimize flow rate of the turbine during manufacturing assembly using very specialized one off test bench. No one else has it. There is a bulletin out from Garrett confirming that once you fiddle and affect settings it is rubbish bin for the turbo! So don't do it! You will gain nothing by playing with it especially if you gonna do ECU re-map. The actuator is controlled by the ECU and the grub screw is max stop for the vanes opening. ... You can alternatively leave the manual boost controller in there you just need to bump the max higher to take advantage of the re-map. The factory solenoid can be utilized as well and some report that it works even better without additional interference from max boost limiter. ECU is much better at controlling the spool up. You could also get commercial version of the MAF voltage modifier, it has better abilities then Jaycar's as it can store several different tunes which can be switched on the fly. ===> see Ultra Air Fuel Controller- UAFC unfortunately it appears no longer available. My setup is much more complex and it is result of adding of various solutions then combining them together because I had them. If I only got remapped ECU with factory boost controller that would enough. My list: 1x Dawes valve set to 14 psi for max low boost, (Eco/Cold engine mode) 1x Tilix valve set to 24 psi for max high boost, (Power mode) 1x needle valve to set persistent spool up rate (instead of factory solenoid) 1x switch over solenoid between low/high circuits 1x overide 3 way switch Auto/Low/High (Auto functions utilize voltage switch getting signal of the TPS at approx 22% it switches from low to high and back.) 1x Jaycar Voltage Digital Modifier (JVDM) to tune out MAF voltage at specific range to minimise smoke and improve the HPD MAF housing induced loss as well as limit the output at higher revs) It is ironic that I now use the stuff to limit or make safety barriers instead of opposite used before re-map. I still watch exhaust temps gauge like a hawk to ensure I don't exceed 550C and boost gauge not to exceed boost bellow 2000 RPM over 12 psi (mine will take it to 18+ if I push it) which is to protect turbo from stall condition and destroying it. The remap basically removes all safety and smoke barriers so it is up to the driver to be disciplined otherwise it will fail very quickly cause the torque delivery is like punch from the sledge hammer. Very impressive when experienced first time but you almost feel the prop shaft twisting away.....LOL.

HPD MAF housing reduces airflow rate around the sensor. This has severe consequences to fuelling at lower RPM so the car is absolutely gutless on take offs. It is horrible to drive like that. I had to use voltage modifier to offset the signal loss to gain the power back. Totally stupid! As I mentioned earlier the voltage limits for fuel cuts are variable so fuel cut defender can only work on max values therefore useless! The factory boost solenoid is PWM valve therefore limitless, its the ECU which imposes limit..... The ECPT used to have an options,4 years ago, send them your ECU to remap (~$500) or get second hand ECU from them remaped.(~$850) with immobilizer chip disabled. I chose that option in case something goes pear shaped later. Remap removes fuel cut limits, increases power phenomenally as well but sadly he did not figure out (then) the timers for glow plugs otherwise it would be perfect. Mine boost to 24 psi,regularly sits on 19 psi on average but I use dual boost control with manual overide, low to 14 psi for city eco, high for highway/power. I still use voltage modifier for smoke control (poorly) and left HPD MAF housing in there too cause I have it. Of all the mods I wasted time, effort and money the remap ECU was last and the best. Now I need to fix my cooling system. Cheers

Gday, Short answer is nothing works to eliminate fuel cut function from factory ECU. Need to remap the ECU to fix that issue. Don't waste $$$ on HPD gear, doesn't work especially MAF housing, I've got one, it creates more issues then it solves. Don't use FCD2 boost controller too, it doesn'twork. Over the time I've done it all. The only thing that worked is re-maped ECU. Then you need nothing else. The way fuel cut works is based on several factors: RPM, MAF airflow, time and TPS. Turbo boost is not taken in to consideration! E.g if RPM is bellow 2000, TPS over 30%, MAF above set limits for longer then 6 secs it will fuel cut to keep boost bellow 10 psi until reset. Another RPM point is @ 2700 and another at 3400. Its imposible to deal with. If you quickly release accelerator pedal it will reset. I obtained another ECU from https://ecpt.com.au/ and had it re-mapped and now my only problem is to keep the black smoke pouring out on take off behind me and backing off cause worrying about breaking something with that much power! The one and only mod, no need for anything else. Oh it will also expose weak clutch and shitty cooling with that much more fuel going in..... No need for boost controllers either, factory solenoid is enough. Regards

G'day, I'd check if turbo actuator is functioning as this sounds like you have no boost. since the actuator is vacuum controlled, the most common culprit is either split hose or leaking vacuum canister/reservoir. When engine idles the actuator lever/rod should move fully up against its stopper (do not attempt to adjust!) Regards

Nope that is incorrect. Very common problem is small vac line in to turbocharger is split. The result is car feels sluggis as turbocharger can't alter its vanes at low RPM so no boost. Another quite common issue is on series 3,2,1 (up to mid 2004 models), they have vac canister which leaks like a sieve. It can be easily by passed to check or confirm and left disconnected with no adverse effects. Regards

I'm not sure I follow but yes ZD30 engines have a bit heavy breathing. I'm assuming you took a hose from the rocker cover breather off.... If there is no catch can on that thing after 200K I'd be checking what the intake manifold looks like, pretty much guaranteed that port holes are half the size by now from carbon and oil deposits. Sadly it is no quick fix either..... Not sure I'd want that thing unless it is extremely cheap. Regards

Good stuff, thanks for the update. You can open the log file either with Wordpad, or spreadsheet program like e.g. Libreoffice Calcs which makes it much easier to colerate. To get the log file you need to double click the gauge during the preselection, just don't select too many only important ones e.g. TPS%, RPM, AFM, ICV%, Vehicle speed perhaps. No need for voltmeter, spill valve, glow relay, A/C fan or barometer.... Regards

Well, that might be possible(mine primer button is rock solid after several hours of engine being off). Fuel delivery system on my car is heavily modified and I'm not 100% sure that could also influence it. Fuel system on ZD30 seems self priming and as such will have a pressure drop once the engine stops. What the residual pressure if any is left I'm not sure. On fully closed fuel injection systems running at around 150 to 200 kPa delivery pressure the left over is about 50 kPa because fuel lift pump has non return valve built in to retain the residual pressure. The trend on self bleeding fuel systems is opposite they drop the pressure to 0 kPa because those systems have a small orifice after the pressure relief/regulator valve so there is a constant bleed off while engine is running. Those systems do have however external high volume fuel delivery lift pumps usually gear type. Looking at the design of VP44 system it is kinda weird cause it doesn't contain fuel bleeding nipple at the either the filter or the injection pump fuel gallery which suggests it isnot fully enclosed system and by having internal fuel lift pump one can't tell if there are non return valves of sort in there.....(note bellow is a image of 6 cylinder version of VP44 but essential components are the same e.g. 4 cyl version has just 2 high pressure plungers...) so it basically purging air only after enough pressure is generated by fuel and relief valve starts to unload... So it is possible the filter head contains non return valve therefore if it is leaking it allows fuel to drain back to the tank. I have had no privilege of dismantling fuel filter head yet on Nissan so I don't really know. I'm very familiar with heavy vehicle diesel engines fuel systems and variations of non return valves vs self bleeding restrictor/orifice in the fuel return line is mandatory. These engines do use separate geared fuel lift pump (like ZD30 common rail version) because fuel volume and feed pressure requirements are much higher (around 500 kPa). What is clear from your issues is that fuel delivery in to the IP (injection pump) is compromised. Low ICV% are also result of blocked fuel filter, restriction in suction line this part is very difficult to identify. If Nissan included some kind of screen/sieve in the fuel pick up pipe and that is restricted with debris could should also be not discounted. One way of seeing that is to make you own temporary "fuel tank" with the jerry and direct hose to filter housing to see what happens to those ICV% or indeed primer on the fuel filter head. B/R