Rumcajs

Wow, incedibly good looking forum page even as is....Cheers

Hi, I don't have this particular C/C setup, mine is Italian E-bay special with genuine Nissan SW CC control swiches and the hardest thing to figure out was which wire on the clock spring I was suppose to connect to as mine was 05 model with different color codes. Anyway here is an example of installation instructions concerned... Also be aware that manual is from 2005 therefore it is not applicable to CrD version of ZD30 or after 2007. Since you have not informed which version is yours I'd thread carefully with that cruise control if yours is a later series, possible applicable only up to series 4 (2006) Nevermind, I've already found out that you have that manual already and yours is Series 4. So my entire post was just waste of my time...I'm leaving up here for if someone else needs it. Cheers AutronAuscruiseZD30InstallationInstructions.pdf

I need to know model and year before I can assist....or at least which version/series...example of diagram is for 2001 model or GU2 series.

You will/might have better luck in answering on these Patrols forums: patrol4x4.com nissanpatrol.com.au Very few Nissan Patrol owners in Australia have interest driving at 70 km/h as distances comparing to your local Scandinavian region are on completely different scale. I don't drive my Nissan as daily, and my nearest 4x4 adventure area is 300 km + be it the sand dunes or outback hills are even further 500+ km... No interest in driving at such low speed to get there her ein Oz most people use their Patrols for touring and that means large distances are covered. ZD30 powered Nissans are not widely customized to run 33' with 4.88 gearing. People who would mod gearing ratios would be those guys with heavily modded TD42 on 35' (highly illegal in Australia) who play in local sand/mud pits or do comps but those models are not auto tranny fitted! To be honest I'd mod/change the engine first if I indeed wanted to keep Nissan Patrol. Apparently common conversion is to use BMW 3L engine and gearbox combo.....Polish guys like it... https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/bmw-m57-into-zd30-patrol.419019/ https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=127470 https://house-of-torque.com/product/6-8hp-to-patrol-y60-61/

You can modify or use that as an example what is possible. I know of setup where lockup disengage at whatever you wish or want! Here ==> https://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Lockup Trans Switch.htm You can hack it any way you see fit. I'd personally go out and mix auto mode with manual overide e.g. have speed related options as well as full manual overide. Alas, mine has manual transmission so I don't need to contemplate it. I've automated some mods on mine and always included manual overide option (boost control, preheat control, fuel lift pump control, intercooler fan control etc.) because why limit yourself. Standard shifts as per Nissan : Autotrans ratios: Going for 4.88 diffs would increase your rev range and slow you down. Here in Australia those who use 4.88 usually go bigger tyres (33"-35") as well to get back revs/speed ZD30 loves to drink once you go past its peak torque band of 2000-2500 RPM. Diesels are meant to be driven at peak torque.... This is why I get better fuel consumption around town (10.5 L/100) then on open highway (12.5 L/100) as at 110 km/h mine sits at 2800 RPM. Even at 100km/h it still sits slightly above 2500 RPM so getting down to 2100 would be ideal. I'd prefer lower ratio for 5th gear e.g 0.70 instead of that factory stupidity 0.80 Regards

The torque converter lock up issue is easily fixed, searched for it on Patrol forums it is very easy mod.... https://www.mypatrol4x4.com/topic/226-patrol-torque-converter-lockup-override-system/ As to what 4.88 gears is I have no idea but I wouldn't change diff ratios as going higher would only increase revs and fuel consumption though it would give you more torque/power at the expense of speed. Regards

Good stuff, glad to be of assistance. Regards

OK so it appears that the actual factory central locking is still working as it should. if you use drivers side locking part on the handle that should also operate all door lock. The aftermarket wireless or RC unit doesn't need the factory procedure it should have its own, some have programming button on the unit which needs to be pressed/held for so long etc. This should be in the instructions included with those aftermarket units on how to pair set of fobs included. Remember how this Nissan central locking works: Wireless/key less/remote interfaces with the drivers side door lock unit to operate locks on all doors including drivers. The factory unit includes also wiring to all door sensors to confirm that doors are closed. Aftermarket units don't need that crap indeed it is hindrance especially in case of rear barn door! Thats why aftermarket units only need six wires as we don't need to make checks if the doors are actually closed, that just Japs stupid overzealous checking in case you leave keys in the vehicle etc... First question: is Mongoose unit working? (even with remote right next to it) if it is then try to obtain information how it is wired up or wiring arrangement for it. How many wires are connected? Second question: have you paired Ebay unit fobs with the Ebay unit? Use intructions/info how to provided with the unit, don't use Nissan OEM instructions it will not work! Third question: if you connected Jaycar unit as per instructions, did you pair the fobs as per included instructions? This is the one I have and it works brilliantly ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/remote-controlled-car-central-locking-system-with-2-keyfob/p/LR8839 The unit has learning button which needs to be pressed/held for 1 sec then pressing lock on each transmitter(fob) will pair them. Did you do that? Green and Blue wires are the only one needed....to lock unlock on this unit! Essentially if not concerned about indicators its just 4 wires. Positive, Negative, Lock, Unlock, and 2x Indicators I removed glovebox on my car ST 2004, to check/confirm my wiring setup: LR8839 side Nissan side Red Red/White B+ 12V (It means constant battery power) Black Black B- Ground/Earth Blue Blue/Red Green Blue optional indicators: Brown Green/Red Brown Green/Yellow According to my original post on other forum I might have swapped above Lock and Unlock wires so above list is working correctly. I have cut those 6 wires on original Nissan plug off.... Then used 8 pin white plastic connector kit from Jaycar ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-8-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2069 to make it nicer to connect to aftermarket unit existing harness ( I hate soldering wires) of which I had to cut a lot of length off! I only needed 0.5 m of those 6 wires. Rest I taped up away. Cheers LR8839_manualMain_76676.pdf

Mate, I don't think so as if it works via drivers door buttons.... You need to understand how the system works... Did you read that thread I posted a link to? It explains how the system works. Basically the remote unit just interfaces with/via drivers door control and remote relay. Did you actually pair the remotes as in supplied instructions? If drivers door controls work then its only issue is the remote receiver. As with any Remote control you're required to pair the fobs before they will work!

Just re-check that wiring is connected correctly... wiring diagram bellow. Bonus with aftermarket unit is that unlike factory unit there is no checking for doors properly closed which commonly an issue especially with rear door not closing properly with barn door sagging a little. Other then that it makes no sense why the Ebay unit doesn't work unless the signals are reversed....

I've replaced factory wireless receiver for keyless entry for exactly same reason with Jaycar kit, it worked right away. I followed a thread on patrol4x4.com forum and added my 2 cents worth to the discussion ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/posts/6963332/ B/R

G'day, I used to have same problems, now I have different ones. Re-mapping exposes cooling system deficencies so any issues with fan, radiator etc will quickly cause the engine overheating! Did I mention "rolling coal..." if you're careless with the go pedal? Choose your poison carefully. Anyway the place is called ==> https://ecpt.com.au/ B/R

Hello, If you need to run dual Dawes setup you'll need to check old Chaz's posts where he uses excellent examples of all the possible setups. I will need to dig in to my old .... actually its still on his site ==> http://chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual Boost Controller.htm Cheers There are various ways you could set it up, use voltage controller/switch to set tps voltage at which it will trigger however good luck finding one out. jaycar don't seem to sell those anymore. if you are after which wire to hack in to from TPS for signal you will need to tell us which model is your Patrol....first.

if you've got boost controller setup to 25 psi, but is the engine actually achieving that? I doubt. What other modifications have you got? Nissan is know to limit or limp if MAF signals are incorrect without any codes. Have you tried new/another MAF sensor? Just cleaning it doesn't mean jack. The main problem is that if MAF sensor reports incorrect air flow rate but within specs there will be no errors just lack of power. Engine ECU uses MAF sensor to do all its calculation, MAP or turbo pressure sensor is there only for safety limp overide or something like that. I recommend to read/record MAF voltages during a drive to see what values you're getting under loads. While it is not easy to correlate, anything bellow 2.5 V once accelerator is pushed indicates possibly incorrect reading especially if you are unable to achieve max values up to 4 V, however again if "no fuel no boost no air no fuel" no power catch apply so you must ensure/eliminate each scenario. If you have portable computer with MS software you could obtain ECUTalk USB to Nissan Consult/OBD interface and use ECUTalk software to view /log related data. Also ensure if it is manual transmission that neutral switch is working correctly, use warm up switch when cold to increase RPM when idlin in N and once you move g/lever to a gear position RPM should cut to normal idle. Regards

Hi there, welcome to the forum, I have same issue mine is 2005 GU4 series with less km though....Welcome to the dreaded wheel wobble/s issues affecting almost everyone. Mine happens very noticeably around 80 km/h and gets worse under load. I've noticed that turning steering wheel side to side can either stop it or induce it worse, usually steering right will bring it on with a vengeance. It started to happen when I rotated wheels around and got worst over the time, tyres on mine are muddiess and they're are getting worn and due for replacement. So for now I just live with it. Some change/modify swivel hub offset using aftermarket kit which supposedly fixes the issue but I still thing primary reasons are unbalanced tyres, or worn/loose wheel/hub bearings or indeed swivel hub bearings are worn and loose so removing the shims will just preload them more masking the issues. Forums are full of fixes but none are 100% proof. See this ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/wheel-wobble-final-fix-with-poll-sometimes-referred-to-as-death-wobbles.343130/ Watch this video too ==> it has very good pointers just think first... Regards

Well if you can find someone who does ECU remap for CrD engine sure especially if they do the right thing and also remove smoke map limitations aka limp mode induced by overzealous emission controls. I'd also identify and see if reducing amount of pre-heating time glow plugs take by wiring up glow plug timer modification would also increase the life span of glow plugs. The best preventative thing is watch boost and exhaust temperature during driving and act accordingly. BTW I'm led to believe Scangauge OBD2 scanner can read boost pressure as well. Don't use fully synthetic engine oil, keep an eye on fuel filter and if really want fit water separator as water in fuel is the biggest enemy of common rail diesels , fit air cleaner correct way and regularly empty catch can you fit (stick to decent one like Provent 200). Regularly inspect coolant level and condition... Enjoy the drive !

Hmm, strange and unfortunate for you. I know ZD30 coolant temp gauge is deliberately calibrated not to move past its regular operating range until it shoots past 100C but by that time is too late....hence Good idea is to get OBD2 Scangauge and that allows you to watch coolant temps properly (it will show you what engine ECU sees in real time), I've got a version of it for Di (ECUTalk) and it saved my hide a few times. So it appears that little ZD30 was overheating for a while, the previous owners knew about and got rid off it. If they towed a caravan with it then it is obvious.... I agree with buying second hand GU with ZD30 is a lottery but that infamous grenade's pin has been pulled waiting for it to go off.... Regards

G'day, 2010 CrD with extensive damage to to it! Care to elaborate as I'm really curious? 2010 vintage had problems with oil pump bolts coming loose and creating lot of mess, is that the case. EGR & Boost gauge I'm assuming you mean exhaust temperature gauge... Numbers on your to do list are almost correct but CrD D30 is little different to Di. Jury is still out on pre-filter as it adds extra strain on built in fuel lift pump. As to what Tilix valve will achieve in regards to more advanced fuel injection of CrD and its control unit there might be some issues which will require careful tuning. I think boost and exhaust temp gauges with catch can are probably most important as those gauges will alter the way you'll drive it. Catch can will keep intake clean but requires you to do regular emptying unless you find a way to auto drain it to oil sump once engine is off. Tilix valve setup allows for removal of boost control from engine ECU and unrestricted turbo spool up and much greater boost pressure which might cause issues with engine management so it needs to be tuned properly to find the sweet spot between performance and reliability with engine management not throwing a hissy and causing DTCs and engine limps especially when combined with EGR shim which many had to drill a small hole in to as a compromise to avoid engine errors. Cheers

Mate, I'm still trying to figure out what exactly you're after. Windscreen? Passenger front door window? Rear passenger door 1/4 window? Probably that one! Try here ==> https://www.nizzbits.com.au/ the bloke is very knowledgeable and reliable. Cheers

Mate, I know it is a bit late reply, I think the leak is from leak off line, either from one of the sealing washer under the banjo fitting or the line itself. Anyway, let us know what it turned out to be... Cheers

Mate, Highly unlikely you'll ever be able to get it passed in NSW. If a rust is a real problem try to obtain another body or fix the rust. Cheers

CONSULT NATS software. Have you got spare key? I'd try that first. NATS unit is supplied with main batt power fuse no 50, Check fuse no 25 that supplies power to NATS when Ign is ON. There is another fuse but since NATS light is working that one is OK. Also is MIL light flashing at the same time as well? Unfortunately only Nissan Dealers can play with that bugger using Nissan Consult NATS software.

OK, if it is genuine turbo charger do not touch the adjustment, it is set at factory (Garret0 and can't be reliably set afterwards. I know some people have fiddled with it, my recomendation is don't. It would be interesting to note EGTs when under load whilst lacking power as that can point to a problem. If the temps are low that means not enough fuel and if very high means less air however trick is to understand that relationship. 15 psi boost limit is standard factory setup without Dawes valve so what is the point? So at what RPM are you seeing the 15 psi boost? ZD30 will usually operate around 8-12 psi happilly without you noticing "huge" lack of power you describe. Indeed as strange as it sounds at lower boost around 12 psi the ZD30 seems to have best fuel consumption vs power output but it will start to struggle if pushed harder without extra air comming in which will be indicative by rapid increase in EGTs once loaded easily flying past 600 C (not good). As an example I have mine setup with Dual Dawes/Tillix valves and manual overide where I can limit boost to max 14 psi vs top 22 psi in auto/max mode That will see the same hill climb at 500C + /14psi and slowing vs 380C/19 psi and accelerating. Mind you mine is heavily modified including customized ECU remap. So let me get this straight: You have Dawes valve installed as boost limiter? What controls spool up rate? is it factory ECU vnt solenoid? I think you could have badly set up boost control but I still don't understand how you can even reach 15 psi then. If you could list/obtain boost psi vs RPM vs EGTs and Go pedal position vs Air flow meter voltages that would help to pin point likely causes. Thats what I would do in order to narrow down the issues. A laptop with ECUTalk software and USB cable conected to diagnostic interface would help see and log the relevant data. Generally speaking Nissan Patrols with ZD30 4 cylinder engine from factory are pretty low on power anyway and do struggle of the line but once above 2000-2500 RPM they improve a bit showing most power around 2800-3000 RPM. Still nothing to crow about though! That engine struggles with the design choices Nissan made in lame attempt to control emissions and that pathetic fuel injection control from Bosch makes the things even worse. Regards

135 Nm, no more no less. Also if alloy wheels ensure theyre centred on the hub correctly, there is a small ledge on the hub which is easily missaligned and common source of wheels falling off especially when tyre guys have no clue..... Regards

How do ya know its 15 psi? When? Under what acclerator position/load what RPM? Anyway is it manual transmission? If it is you need to check that that neutral switch is working correctly. One way to check is to run engine when cold and use so called heat up switch which will bump RPM to about 1200 RPM and then check if moving g/lever of N position will drop RPM to idle. I'm still curious about those 15 psi and how is it measured? If you're using e.g ECUTalk sofware it measures engine MAP sensor as absolute pressure that is atmospheric + actual boost. Atmospheric pressure at sea level is around 14.5-14.7 psi, so with let say 10 psi value would be 25 psi, just saying......however ECUTalk software will not read boost/MAP sensor it doesn't support it dipslays static 15 psi or nothing. There should be no boost if there is no fuel and there should be no fuel if there is no boost.... these thing are directly related. Diesel engine needs air and fuel to work properly While engine is idling check that VNT actuator is fully up against stop/adjuster screw and when engine is off it drops down .... O3 Patrols have vac canister which can leak like a sieve which means no VNT vanes are set to correct position as there is no vacuum to actuate but that will not give boost. Next common issue is fuel starvation as ZD30 uses fuel pressure not only for delivering in to cylinder but for timing advance injection too so no fuel no timing advance..... Explain how is it possible to get 15 psi boost pressure and lack power to go. Unfortunately you need to see what engine management sees to be able to diagnose what is the cause: MAF sensor reading airflow incorrectly? Accelerator pedal sensor reading incorrectly, Turbo VNT actuator position, (indicating vac pipes arrangement) obvious ones : air cleaner, fuel filter/air in the fuel I've seen common problem with vacuum hoses blowing off or splitting. Regards