Rumcajs

Hello, Firstly you need to tell us which model of Nissan Patrol and which engine? TD42 uses glow plugs relay controller and ZD30 uses engine ECU to control glow plugs. ZD30 will glow plugs on start unless engine operating temp is 70°C. Regards

My first reaction was that it is the belt tensioner. Have you changed the belt? Bear in mind that even replacement tensioner when not fitted correctly will cause the belt to be noisy. You shoud be able to pull back the tensioner and it should snap back. If not, it is not moving freely on the pivot. Also I wonder if alternator has anything to do with it. You could spray 'Belt grip' on the belt but that will ruin/wear it quicker. Cheers

G'day, Removing DOC (catalyst ) is mostly illegal but depends on country where you live, I'm not sure what regulations are there in Argentina. I'd remove it (factory unit) but install high flow aftermarket unit to stay legal if needed. EGT probe is before turbo charger is harder to install and yes it will show higher temperatures. Installed after turbo is OK and easier. Regards

This simply doesn't compute. You had it at Nissan for 3 months and they can't find the fault? Where? Its stalling cause there is no fuel available at right time or enough when needed under load cause either wrong inputs from engine sensors e.g MAP and MAF or fuel delivery is faulty, either low supply or high pressure rail issue. This should not be that hard to figure out by measuring observing engine sensors and their outputs. Or is turbo charger faulty? Example the variable geometry vanes are fully retarded cause the vacuum control is leaking. Easy to see via OBD2 scanner. Is fuel rail pressure sufficient? I mean what sort of Nissan imbecilles can't use their Consult diagnostic interface to figure this out? They should be seeing data coming during road test and relate/collate that data ffsck! I'm sorry but If I had an afternoon with their gear connected I'd tell you exactly what is wrong. You need to see what ECM sees when the stalling occurs. Fuel rail pressure, Manifold Airflow and turbo boost, EGR position, any smoke out of exhaust, even accelerator pedal position.... I suggest you visit Bosch authorized diesel fuel injection centre and have them diagnosed this on the dyno where they can simulate engine loads to pinpoint the issue. Regards

G'day, MAF Voltage reading at idle is around 1.6- 2.0 V. MAP or boost sensor always read absolute pressure that is atmospheric or barometric pressure + actual turbo pressure. Barometric pressure at sea level is around 100 kpa or 14.5 psi. Unless you are using actual ECU Talk LCD panel where this compensation is made you will see the values as indicated in the ECU Talk software gauges. Cheers

As long as you get same steering angles then all is good. Cheers

That is highly unlikely as the cost is or will be astronomical. Sourcing second hand TB48 driveline is also not that common. Apart from the body there are differences especially electrical system, you would need the tranny as well as brakes and even handbrake is different. Getting the engine and transmission assembly, electrical looms etc from a donor rolled over vehicle perhaps. Going LS V8 or Ford Barra straigth six is easier due to much greater availability of donor parts. Regards

My honest answer is consistently the same. I do not recommend to buy! Not that vintage anyway unless you have replacement motor handy or enough funds to spend when inevitable happens. Or plan a coversion to different engine like TD42, LS2, Cummins or whatever else people spend their money on. Servicing that engine makes no difference, it is terrible design done when Nissan was nearly bankrupt (it should!). Bosch is another swine of automotive dregs! Either way if you are not handy with spanners or want spent weekend under the bonnet keep away from that abomination unless you have a lot of cash to burn. Look it is terrible car on the road, under powered and ready to expire at moments notice. It is only good in low range doing 30 km/h, then it goes anywhere. I know it sound harsh but that is the reality of owning Japanese 4WD. Their endless issues with everything while costing a fortune to drive is the norm. Regards

G'day, AT box oil pan bolts torque is 7-9 Nm, the drain plug is 29-39 Nm. There is a side note in Nissan factory manual stating that bolts should be replaced due " * Always replace oil pan bolts as they are self-sealing bolts. * Before installing bolts, remove traces of sealant and oil from mating surface and thread holes. * Tighten four bolts in a criss-cross pattern to prevent distortion of the gasket " I'd check/confirm that bolt holes are not open in to the transmission once the oil pan is off because if that is the case the bolts do indeed have to be sealed. Regards

G'day, 4 cylinder engine is not easily timed 180 deg out only straight six. Anyway see extra info bellow.

That sound like odd issue. Will the both front doors lock by using drivers door lock button? If yes, the issue might be in the central locking remote control box. Indeed it is easy check, if everything lock up via drivers side lock button then problem is remote control box. It is hidden behind passenger side airbag or just above. It is a white plastic box. From my own experience, I ditched the Nissan's remote box and for 50 bucks bought from Jaycar after market remote kit and re- wired just 6 wires to get it working. End result is perfect locking/unlocking from far greater distance then OEM POS, easy remotes replacements if needed etc. Regards

G'day, Firstly, you'll ned to tell us what model/year your vehicle is! if ZD30 then yes no MIL light likely means that engine ECU is not powering up. There are fusible links in the engine bay right next of main battery. Cheers

You may well have more luck with your question over at this site------》 http://www.navara.asia/forum.php Navara's if it has ZD30 engine then turbo control is not like on Patrol as there is no variable geometry turbo on Nav so not sure if vacuum diagram is of any help. Regards

Hello, Everything suggests that either you had an issue with fuel filter, or it is sucking air somewhere or indeed injection pump is failing. To see if IP is failing and self report visit diesel fuel injection specialist to connect scanner directly to IP there might be some codes in the pump ECU shedding some llight on the issue. If this happens when engine is warm only the chances are it is the pump. The ZD30 and their VP44 injection pumps are notorious for having issues with fuel delivery from the fuel tank as well so you could substitute clear hose from filter housing to pump and observe for presence of air in the line which indicates some of the problems described. Regards

I'd guess that ratios play important part in the power of the winch vs power of the electric motor alone. Simple equation means that lower the ratio the less powerful electric motor is required to do the same work albeit slower. If its the speed than higher ratio is required but more powerful motor is required. Personally, I'd select lower ratio as speed is not important to me as well as mechanically less effort is required from the motor therefore less electrical power and less stress.......you get the point. Regards

G'day, The above is now pretty much just as historical info. Most of us have moved on onto next level which is basically re-mapped engine ECU making Dawes valve and similar as such redundant. The reason for Dawes valve or Timid valve are still valid though in case the factory ECU map is used. I run combo Dawes with Tilix valve because I have retained the dual boost control setup I had before going full re-map. GU2 has reinstalled factory boost control since the re-map fixes the short comings of the factory setup (limp mode due to overboost etc.) I have retained manual overide so I can force low boost ( set to 14 psi)on Dawes valve for economy or high boost setting ( 24 psi) on Tilix valve for mx power output and auto switching based on TPS percentage via voltage switch. Before re-map high boost was set to 18 psi due to factory induced limits. Regards

Just check that engine ECU is staying alive during cranking process, it does sounds like 'DR' circuit is dropping hence if engine is turned on without starter motor it fires up. Could possibly be ECU ground/earth issue. Regards

I concur, far easier and cheaper to have re- mapped ECU from Harley, instead of dicking around with addons which are being defeated constantly by the factory ECU. Indeed there isn't even the need for Dawes/Tilix or needle valve combos, just leave original factory boost control in, works like charm. Unfortunately flashing factory ECU is not straight forward process( deliberately designed to have once only EPROM chips instead of EEPROM) so I recommend getting extra ECU if he still offers that option as that way you have a backup OEM unit. Regards

Well, indeed that could be the case, stuck partially open. Remove and check visually. Regards

G'day, So when it idles in neutral it is all good but once you de-clutch and put it in gear it starts to 'hunt', am I correct? What happens when you just de-clutch? Is it dificult to engage reverse gear? To me it appears that either the clutch is dragging so it loads up the engine or dual mass flywheel is so flogged out that when de-clutching the mass of the clutch is lost and flywheel just oscillates madly causing crankshaft speed to fluctuate which in turns causes the crank angle sensor to give false info to ECU, that would be my wild guess. To follow this theory, I'd jack the Patrol of the ground and try, park brake off and repeat. If there is no load on drive train and it stops doing it then it is possible. I can't see this being a neutral switch and you can check quickly by using 'engine warm up' switch. If engaged RPM should be around 1100, as soon as you move gear out of neutral the revs should drop to idle. There is also brake pedal switch which when fault occurs it migh not give you throttle response because if ECU sees TPS % off idle and brake signal at the same time it has a 'hissy' fit. You need to see what ECU sees from its sensors to narrow this down. Cheers

I'd check fuel filter first. Cheers

G'day, I'm at a loss to understand what is your objective? Short answer is that you can't just 'bypass' ABS rear sensors. I'm assuming the wheel speed sensors, am I right? If you want to just disable ABS functionality then just remove relevant fuses. It will be standard brakes with anti lock function removed. Regards

No one knows why but they also put emphasis on that it must be semi-synthetic whatever that suppose to mean, technically 100% synthetic motor oil is a myth! Jusk ask a petro chemical engineer who is willing to divulge this scam or just read about on Wikipedia! All widely available 'synthetic' motor oils are based on crude oil with higher end processing/refining so most of the impurties from crude are removed and special additives to improve the concoction are added. It must be said that engine oils today are mostly suited to latest designs combustion precesses therefore older design like ZD30 will not benefit from latest oils indeed there are downsides. High quality mineral or blended (semi-synthetic) oils are better for ZD30. I'm trialling ULX110 which is special blend mineral oil with some fancy organic additives. I was happily using Caltex Delo 400 variety before, all 15W-40 and no issues. Regards

You can start with Dronus' excellent guide =>

G'day, I'm sorry but there are no quick fixes for ZD30 design flaws just replacement with something better. This engine has been designed when Nissan was nearly bankrupt so only the cheapest and nastiest would pass the muster for the "bean counters." Of course this is just my conjecture as nothing else can explain this imbecilic abomination and utter refusal of Nissan to correct it. If ever one was to see how not to design diesel engine this is it. Its a mashup of various petrol engine 'know hows' with diesel bits thrown in from the bottom of the parts bin then checked per unit cost until cheapest is obtained. All the info we have stands. These mods don't save the engine, just postpone the inevitable. Thats it. BTW the comon rail versions of this abomination 'grenade' too! Regards