Rumcajs

G'day Don't waste your $$$ on that exercise. Water to air intercooling is a massive compromise and not very efficient one either. You will be much better off in improving existing air to air intercooling minus less hassles with coolant pipes etc. Regards

Ni$$an $tealers can't do that! That they were unable to do so is astounding. Now I'm not sure what further details you require but I know that system will not enter in to programming mode unless all circuitry is correct. However I don't have 2008 model revision available so I can only speculate in this case. The wiring diagrams for Patrols are the nightmares because of so many revisions and changes on the fly they make. I will try to dig for more info so bear with me. Cheers

G'day, welcome to the forum. The black smoke is usually a symptom of overfuelling. You can start with the basics, air cleaner, fuel filter etc. This seems/appears to be something related to engine sensors or and ECUs as when you cycle power off everything resets. Are there any error codes/MIL flashing when that happens? Do you have themeans of seeing engine sensors output?e.g. via ECU Talk software and interface cable? I'm being tempted to suggest perhaps MAF sensor is playing up.... Anyway as a part of investigating you could try When it happens don't turn the key off but check if you can at stationary and engine still running use acc pedal to run up max RPM e.g. floor it to see what happens. Also what is the lack of power demonstrating as? No revs, lack of available throttle response or just lazy going? Also what engine mods if any do you have? Regards

As far as I know the only issue is SRS airbag incompability so if the utes don't have those then you might want to research it further. otherwise it fits. Regards

G'day, I know it sounds obvious but that means you still have air in the system. Pressure bleeding the system doesn't always work OK. As an exercise try loosening each bleed nipple slightly and watch for air bubbles. Sometimes the good all fashioned manual bleeding is needed too, in correct order of course (starting from nearest cylinder to master). If your vehicle has load sensing valve make sure it is set to max opening as well before attempting to bleed the system. I use vacuum method (own vacuum tester/gun) and finish of with manual bleeding with helper person pumping the pedal. Never had issues this way. Regards

G'day Unless, they've given you a paperwork or afixed recall sticker then you can't tell unless you pull the SRS airbag detonator out and inspect its serial/part numbers or actually witnessed it being fitted ( I did ).There should be an invoice generated for Nissan Australia by the dealer indeed Nissan will only supply enough for the vehicles listed as coming under the dealers system. So you could contact Nissan Australia directly to obtain the information about your vehicle as they must keep that transaction for ACC. In any case this airbag re-call is a fraud. Takata Inc needs to supply around 40 to 80 million additional unit for vehicles around the world which some of them are not even being produced anymore on top of actually supplying/fullfilling existing contracts to produce them for current productions of vehicles. To understand what is going on, the Japanese invented manufacturing system like JIT (Just in Time) which means they mostly don't produce anything extra for the stores to keep. This means that lead times for extra units are very long..... That can't be done in ones lifetime. Most dealers will replace the units "like for like" as they have nothing else supplied to them. Probably only difference will be with the so called Alpha series airbags where/if the updates can be made or they can be superceded by later units. If your Nissan is 2000-2003 model then do ensure they updated the SRS airbag detonator/entire unit to later version. If they ask me to come again I'll cut the wires to that shyte myself. Regards

G'day, If it is Provent 200 unit then around 70K kms or if it no longer works letting oil though. Regards

G'day, Chances are you gonna get various suggestions etc. Engine ==> semi synth or mineral oil is the best. I used Caltex Delo 400 15W-40, now I switched to extremely expensive (still trialing for now )ULX Diesel 15W-40. Gearbox ==> mine is manual so it doesn't really apply Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 (I will trial ULX 85W-90) First diff ===> ULX 85W-90 Rear diff (LSD) ===> ULX 85W-140 Transfer ===> Syntrans 75W-85 (if you are in cold area recommended oil is Dextron III auto tranny oil) Regards

Here ==>

G'day, Apart from the fact that people flogging that app use terrible graphics and their site sucks, it is only good for vehicles with OBD2 capabilities which with an exception of common rail version of ZD30 (post 2007) none of the Patrols are capable. I still don't get what is so special about that app apart from massively invasive anti privacy features, tracking, push notifications and other crap. It just another marketing hype where it will suck unsuspecting customers in to who knows what repair schemes. You can easily get $10 OBD2 ELM327 adapter and $5 + Torque app doing the same and still have your privacy! Especially with this little blurb gem: "Never worry about the condition of your family’s cars and protect them no matter where they are. Install a FIXD sensor in each family member’s vehicle so you can remotely monitor the health and status of their vehicle and be there for them in their time of need." https://www.fixdapp.com/features What a shonky!

G'day, Save your money for the TD42 conversion. There is no point trying to do anything to what I presume is high mileage ZD30 (200K +) stock/with no mods. Enjoy it while it drives and when it grenades, convert it to TD42 which you can mod up then. You need to understand that the engine you are/would be after is TD42Ti (factory turbo charged and intercooled). Standard TD42 is non intercooled and there are number of unscrupulous jerks out there even trying to sell non turbo charged TD42 from GQ series which isn't exactly a win..... Anyway, to mod TD42 to get more power out will cost $$$ as it is all mechanicals, there are no quick ECU/software fuelling changes like on ZD30. But if you insist on wasting money on ZD30, have a look in NADS step by step guide ,it contains everything you'll need to know. Regards

There should be fusible links and fuses box in the engine bay next to battery on RHS. Check there, glow link is 100 Amp, and cooling system is 40 Amp. Regards

G'day, You need to give more information. Especially about which engine is in yours as I'm assuming it is 2006 GU. That means 2 possibility, ZD30, TD42Ti I'm guessing TB48 doesn't have glow plugs. Regards

G'day, mate The link you have included in the post redirects to "Carsales" seller login page not the actual car buyer page. You may want to check and correct that link. Regards

G'day, I don't think you need to fiddle with gearbox spacer, the after market single mass flywheel and clutch kit should be bolt on replacement..... Regards

Replaced front bump stops, got rid off POS Nissan type and fitted ones for LC80 series. Who would have thought, they're cheaper and better than Nissan's.....indeed it is a sacrilege I know, Regards

Glad you have sorted it out. To help other if in similar situation, feel free to do up a post about swapping remote control from factory unit to aftermarket unit. Regards

Mate, Patrols are positively switched for most of the things. Anyway I have posted previously the scheme/diagrams for central locking on Patrols. I don't really understand what am I looking at in regards to wiring manual you have posted. Is it for central locking or for alarm? IMHO No.3 sounds like one. Don't forget that door locking relay reverses polarity to electric motors to lock or unlock. Is the central locking working? E.g. when you turn the key in the drivers door lock does it lock/unlock all the doors and or when you push central locking button on the drivers side does it lock/unlock? If so then all you need to do is to hack the multi-remote signals nothing else or so is my understanding. If you look at multi-remote from Nissan for Australia for 2006 revision (my previous posts) then it is simple 8 pin control box (M133) Pin 1 => Ground Pin 2 => Battery positive B+ Pin 3 => RH side indicator signal Pin 4 => Ignition ON positive aka 15+ Pin 5 => Lock signal to unified meter control unit (aka Instrument cluster) Pin 6 => Unlock signal to Unified meter control unit Pin 7 => Driver lock status (ground when locked from driver door actuator) Pin 8 => LH side indicator signal There are multiple variations of multi remote, there is 16 pin unit in previous revisions, unless you know what is in yours it isn't easy to figure out from just wiring diagrams. However you've mentioned that yours is 8 pin unit. Regards

Sorry mate I would not know what "Gourdan" is, but if the factory remote works then I find it weird that adding keys won't work. Regards Here is wiring diagram for 2006 revision AU ==> maybe that one is yours. Location of multi-remote (M133) is B1 on the harness layout passenger side .....

G'day, Since you have GQ engine in it then I'd get that version of the gearbox and RD28 has completely different gearbox (smaller as well) as for the differences between GQ and GU FS5R50B changes I'm not 100% sure but are mainly product revisions and improvements and depending on which revision and ratios, later ones get upgraded 5th gear on GU4 onward. There may be some differences in bolting pattern on the bell housing but again I'm not so sure. In any case you want definitely the upgraded 5th gear assembly otherwise you'll be pulling it out again once it shears the splines off.... Nissan is not making it easy that's for sure. I'd be talking to gearbox specialist familiar with Nissan boxes first. Regards

Same to you mate, enjoy the festive season. Regards

G'day, Chances are that ECU from the wreckers will not be very useful to you without immobilizer recoding. However hold on to that ECU cause you can send (unless you are close to mid coast of NSW) it to have it re-maped and as a part of it they can disable immobilizer so not only you gain extra ponies but keep your original ECU as well. Much better option then diesel "piggy back" dodgy chip. As far as that "overboosting switch" there is no such thing as a switch.... What happens is that ECU monitors MAF output and correlates it to TPS position and RPM and if values are too high it will derate until you release pedal and re-apply which resets the limp process. That is what happens not the overboosting indeed ECU seems to ignore boost values in regards of this function on Series 1, 2, and 3. From Series 4 onwards there is mapping for boost as well incorporated in ECU fuel mapping and it will limp if you exceed 18 psi but still MAF, RPM and TPS% is considered. Regards

G'day, I've never heard of "overboosting" switch, what is it? Anyway here: I would ensure that earthing circuit are correct. Y61 is notorious for bad earths, indeed I recommend running extra earth cable between chassis and body and en gine and chassis. Regards

D22 Navara ZD30 uses different fuel and turbo management. It has fixed geometry turbo (so No you can't use Dawes or Tilix and needle valve) you can use waste gate by pass valve like from Turbo smart or Boost Tee or similar. There is no MAF so no need for voltage modifier of that signal unless you want to apply it to MAP/boost sensor, indeed Navara is easier to mod in regards to turbo pressure All the other mods you can do. Regards

Well, it may be that some of the prerequisites are not fullfiled therefore it will not go in to programming mode. For start, the actual method is less then ideal so any discrepancy there may be a cause. The unit itself is mounted on the passenger side underneath the SRS airbag module on the steel tube which holds entire dashboard/crash pad in the place. When you remove glove box and look up you'll see it. It is a white semi transparent box. (That is on mine ST model 2005 Series 4) You should confirm that all condintions are fullfilled. Here is trouble shooting guide: