Rumcajs

The part I don't understand is how the immobiliser can work but not the remote? Anyway there is a method to get programming mode ON for remotes aka ID code. Does your warning buzzer work when you leave ignition key in position and open the door aka that annoying chime? If it doesn't it is possible that previous owner had disconnected the plug under the steering wheel to silence it (very popular modification) which means the remote programming function can't be activated due to no detection of the key or "key switch signal" which can be unintended consequence of such modification. Easy to fix temporarily, just remove cover under the steering wheel and re-connect it for remote programming. Regards be

G'day, Lots of turbo charger compressor snail housings can be turned around at different angles so you can change the position of both waste gate and the outlet port. Some have V clamp which needs to loosened to turn the housing, some have bolts with clamping plates towards facing centre bearing section it same principle. You only need to turn it about 30 degrees seeing from the pic Regards

Well I'm happy to report that GME TX3520W is working just fine. Being discontinued product (beats me why) I got a good price and it fitted nicely back where previous UHF setup was. The steering wheel remote was a bit of pain to setup and remote mic I'm not sure how well it works but overall I'm happy with it. Regards

I'm not familiar with 24V system in Safari but very familiar with 24V systems in heavy trucks. I do have GQ wiring diagram but not in 24V electrical system. I found this Flicker photo copy of 24V Safari diagram ==> 24V Safari diagram I had a quick look at that wiring diagram and it must be one of the worse one I ever looked at, (nope Renault trucks is the worse!@) but according to that one the factory install has 24V radio so if yours is 12V stereo then all is aftermarket mod which you have follow visually (wires from stereo and UHV) to get the location of the reducer The voltage reducer aka DC converter 24 V ==> 12V for radios/UHF will still require its own fuse (24V) side, it can contain both ignition feed and battery feed (for radio memory) and in most cases radio installers will include inline fuses for UHF/stereos on the 12V side as well. It is also possible that even though feed fuses for the reducers are fine the reducer itself is fried. So if that reducer is aftermarket fix than it is possible there are some inline fuses somewhere near the reducer. The above unit is usually used for UHF radios. My guess would be to identify why spotties don't work first ( it could be that they're on the same fused circuit as voltage reducer for the radios....... ) and then try to locate the voltage reducer (it should be alloy box with what looks like cooling fins on it) Alternatively, any sparkie worth it salt should be able to identify where the problem lies. Regards

G'day, GQ wiring system is pretty straight forward (read simple) anyway here is h/lamp wiring diagram to get you started ==>

G'day, You can fit any GU rims of any year to any GU Patrol aka Y61 of any year or series. I fitted 17' rims from series 4 onwards to Series 2 car for example. Tyres are way over priced in larger sizes. As to why you would want to fit 17' rims for example is beyond me.... 4WD needs higher tyre wall profile not lower unless you wanna turn Patrol in to "Gansta" bus like those silly H3 Hummers. Regards

Well it is really your choice. However if you do go down re-map route technicaly you don't need Dawes valve system to put in, "Geeyoutoo" has re-experimented and refitted factory boost control solenoid back in and apparently it works quite well with re-maped ECU. (one of the reasons we fit Dawes/Tilix and needle valve system is to take away control of the turbo from factory setup ECU to make sure that boost is not dropped off during the cruise when ECU also opens EGR valve which is a big problem, however with re-mapped ECU this is taken care off as a part of the re-map modification) Personally I'd still combine the systems if wanting to retain existing factory boost control, that is: fit Tilix valve instead of Dawes and retain factory boost control solenoid with re-mapped ECU. That way you can control max boost spikes with Tilix and have the ECU controlling the boost as well which saves you on meddling with spool up rate of the turbo. As with the lift pump yes it will also improve cooling and lube by delivering more fuel in to the injection pump. You must modify fuel spill line (so called spill line mod) before fitting lift pump though otherwise you'll have major issue/failure. You must understand that these mods work together and screw up everything in standalone configuration. So just fitting a bigger exhaust will have consequences which are not positive if no other mods are performed (it will limp like crazy everytime you are too eager on go pedal) *Modify fuel spill line (re-routing it to fuel return line to fuel tank instead as factory done plummed to suction line at the injection pump inlet) *Fit electric fuel lift pump *Fit re-mapped ECU ,you can/could keep your original ECU and ask for another ECU (second hand if they have one which will add extra $$$ to your bill but if things go "South" you always have the original, talk to the gents first. *Fit Tilix valve (same as Dawes but works better and is locally sourced) Tee it in and set it up for max boost of 22-24 psi with OEM boost control solenoid *Fit bigger exhaust. Regards

Yeah its a shame those pigs from "Ripoffbucket" did that, they broke a lot of forums and information gathered over the years. I'v deleted my account on there too and won't be bothering rewriting posts in most cases I can't anyway. Regards

G'day, An aditional electric lift pump is needed because built in supply pump in the injection pump of Bosch/Zexel VP44 is struggling to deliver enough fuel especially at lower RPM for all the duties the fuel is required to do e.g. combustion, cooling, hydraulic actuation and lubrication. As it is it just barely keep up and even then only at higher RPM from about 1800 up subject to load. Most commonly people use either Carter 4600/4601 series pumps ==> Carter 4601 in GU Patrol ( I fully recommend you watch/follow rest of the videos/info from Ross aka "Geeyoutoo" ) Another pump is Walbro FRB13 series. Walbro has an advantage of being flow through pump (that means if it stops working fuel can go through) whereas with Carter one has to make by-pass circuit in such case... If you are wondering why it feels so sluggish on take offs that's what is the cause, as the RPMS are low there is not enough fuel to actuate injection advance mechanism sofuel injection is retarded and the response is hence slow. Then there is cooling and lubrication part, as any starvation will start ruining the injection pump which is very expensive to fix, some would argue that is not even designed to be rebuilt especially the electronics side. I can tell you that just by fitting the lift pump I noticed improvement in low RPMs response. Another positive event is that if you your own servicing priming the fuel system is a breeze as well. As with the chip vs remap, there is no contest remap wins heands down. I have Safari Dtronic chip sitting on the shelf as a paper weight now, sure it made some improvements over stock setup but nothing sort of expectations the glossy ads make it up to be. See this ==> NIssan Patrol ECU re-map The problem with GU4 series ZD30 is that Nissan was rather too conservative on the emission side and made control system to go in to limp mode at slightest whiff of sensory overload so just fitting diesel chip will cause issues instantly. Fitting Dawes and needle valve causes the same so any gain power/performance will come back adn bite if the limps are not taken care of.... Re-mapped ECU has no such problems as re-map removes those silly limps and other performance limiting parameters set there to comply with whatever idiotic ideas they had at the time. Honestly, the re-map output is so much that it makes me wondering what it does to the engine reliability even though ZD30 has it pretty low from the factory anyway. To summarize, re-map is less hassle, cost about the same as piggy back chip and as long as you don't mind black smoke the performance output is nothing short of incredible I kid you not. And as someone who had a fair share of mods induced limps and attempts to beat them I would not go back to original factory tune ever again. Regards

I recommend the remap but fit electric lift pump first. It will still suck fuel but at least it will go proper.... Regards

G'day mate, Well it all depends on how much $$$ you want to spend. LS2 upgrade is very popular indeed there are dedicated Facebook groups to that conversion where everything needed is explained including links to suppliers of parts etc. (I can't help you with Facebook part you need to Google that) For example there are ready made engine mounts for LS2 to bolt on the ZD30 mounts for example so no cutting or welding is required. To upgrade engine complete with the transmission you will have to find a donor car and get the complete set as fitted by the manufacturer because the mismatches around are all too common and there is nothing to make them fit if you get the 2 items from 2 different sources..... Then there is legal paperwork hurdle you need to jump over too to get that conversion ticked off by the authorities, not sure what is the case in ACT. So depending what is wrong with the ZD30 and how much deep you want to go to that rabbit hole the LS2 conversion is probably the best bet. Regards

Yep, those are pretty much the same figures I get. I have 3" exhaust too. Mine is GU4 version non CrD. Regards

Install boost and EGT gauges first. You will need them to setup boost control correctly and you need to have some sort of boost control in there if you are shimming EGR as well. Alternatively you can consider re-map of engine ECU which means no more limp problems as 05 Di is very sensitive to changes in boost control (which will get affected with EGR shim installation) which means you will be constantly playing with boost control, trying to tune it out but it is a loosing battle especially on series 4 because beast behaves completely different subject to ambient temperatures. Series 4 is not as NADS friendly as earlier versions . Indeed NADS is a part of complex web of fiddling with the car until you're no longer expecting issues. Every change you introduce will affect the outcome. My order of things would be: 1. Boost and EGT gauges 2. Electric fuel lift pump with fuel cooler and spill line bypass (lots of benefits with added IP protection) and Provent catch can (oil separator) 3. ECU-remap (alert! heaps of power but also with a lot of black smoke under full pedal) with max boost controller and/or retaining factory turbo solenoid or manual boost control with needle valve and Dawes/Tilix valves 4. Glow plug timer mod (or just manual overide with momentary switch) 5. intake hose and air cleaner lid mod 6. EGR shim (not needed if ECU re-mapped) Regards

G'day mate, Welcome to the forum, that is some sweet ride....doesn't seem like a newbie rig. Regards

In the worst case scenario I'll try to fill in those blank images from my own collecting if Dronus can't be bothered anymore. He hasn't been around lately and that includes all other Patrol forums. Regards

Whoa, that "red" is burning my retinas.... I prefered the blue theme. Well keeping up with the changes I suppose. Regards

Yes, there was an issue accessing that site. It is back and accessible again. I beleive there was some domain type blocking/blacklisting involved. Regards

Warning! If you are using Photobucket's hosting services for you photos, images and videos be aware that due to their change of terms 3rd party linking and hosting is not supported (read blocked) on their free (add supported) or low cost paid accounts and one must purchase $40 a month account to have this ability. So, if you want to insert images in to your posts then upload them to this forum instead of linking from e.g. Photobucket. This forum offers a generous (or much more generous limits) then most other forums for the images. Regards

G'day, Please post a diagram how you plumbed in the Dawes valve with the needle valve or some photos of the installation. To me it sounds like the Dawes valve is incorrectly installed... The "T" end is where vacuum lines go and single end is where boost pressure comes in. Also what spring do you have in it? You can specify stronger spring which can take it past 19 psi but standard one will struggle over 16 psi. Is it possible that Dawes valve is incorrectly assembled too. The ball faces the boost side and the spring is the the adjusting end with the Tee. if you have access to compressed air with regulator you can test the valve opening pressures yourself. Is there a chance that boost signal is restricted (hose kinked/blocked etc) or outlet blocked? Regards

G'day, If you're fitting Dawes and needle valve you don't need factory boost control solenoid, indeed you don't want one there anyway. ZD30 engines don't break from overboosting, that's a myth perpetuated by those who don't understand what is going on in there. Overfuelling is the usual case, those dual spring injectors dribble/leak fuel combined with really terrible air fuel control. Regards

It depends on which GU model you have but essential information is correct. GU4 onwards dummy lights have no provision for globes at all, however some wiring is there. So options are to obtain complete lights assembly for Middle East GUs (they come complete with globes and wiring harness to existing factory plugs ) from Ebay and add wiring for them. LHS contains all the wiring but RHS has only two circuits, crucially the RH indicator wiring is there, fog lamp I don't use. I run wires for tail, brake and reverse from LHS under the trim near rear doors opening (there is a channel like space in the metal floor. I drilled holes in the dummy lights assemblies and used Hella globes holders as I didn't want amber indicators in the upper section of the light assembly as is ME option. I made top section tail lamps, centre section (normally reverse white lens) indicators and bottom section the brake lights. I have reverse lights on my rear bar. GU3 and earlier have better read nicer selection/alternatives for the tail lamps assemblies. You can get fancy full LED aasemblies too. Regards

Well, kinda yes, however SSL doesn't hide the intitial connection so while content is encrypted the address is not. VPN is the only way so far. I had a look and the hassle is simply not worth it as well as paying for it is annoying to say a least. I do find it unacceptable because as they build profiles and association all that data will be used against us in near future. If you ask people to voluntary submit to GPS trackers collars they would tell you to bugger off but essentially mobile devices metadata does the same thing. These fcukers will know where you've been, who you communicate with, what you read, write and think. Ultimate enslavement. "Freedom is slavery, war is peace" there is no escape under such regime and any attempt to fight it will fail. Just wait until they legislate full control of our finances (cash abolition) which is on the way next and then we are all well truly fcuked. I feel sorry for the next generations to come. There is no point pretending anymore. Regards

Well here we go, big brother is upon us. ==> ISPs start collecting customer metadata, VPN even more important As I'm thinking about this I'm becoming more and more furious about this intrusion and outright spying. It gives me a sick feeling that those ruling class fcukers and their police dogs have simply passed a law for which they had no mandate and never put it to a popular vote (referendum). Make no mistake this will blow back at the rulling swines with the vengeance one can only hope. As someone said once before "Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." and "Freedom of speech is a principal pillar of a free government; when this support is taken away, the constitution of a free society is dissolved, and tyranny is erected on its ruins. " Enjoy what little you still have left. Orwell was warning us long before but those who can't remeber the past are condemned to repeat it. Regards

G'day, As far as I'm aware there aren't issues with steel wheels. I know that ally 17" are a bit of bastard to balance though. Regards

G'day, I'm afraid there isn't much experience with the short wheel base Y61 in Australia for example, so it is an unknown behaviour. OME doesn't do the suspension lifts anyway it is basically just under an inch raise if that and that is it. And they always advise against any lifts. Suspension lift itself is not a cause of vibrations, usually it is the change in drive line angles and steering geometry which is responsible so if you can recalculate the angles and return them to be as close as to factory setting there should be no issues. IMHO 2" lift should be fine without any other changes. Regards