Rumcajs

The torque converter lock up issue is easily fixed, searched for it on Patrol forums it is very easy mod....
https://www.mypatrol4x4.com/topic/226-patrol-torque-converter-lockup-override-system/
 
As to what 4.88 gears is I have no idea but I wouldn't change diff ratios as going higher would only increase revs and fuel consumption though it would give you more torque/power at the expense of speed. 
Regards

OK so it appears that the actual factory central locking is still working as it should. if you use drivers side locking part on the handle that should also operate all door lock.
The aftermarket wireless or RC unit doesn't need the factory procedure it should have its own, some have programming button on the unit which needs to be pressed/held for so long etc. This should be in the instructions included with those aftermarket units on how to pair set of fobs included. 
Remember how this Nissan central locking works:
Wireless/key less/remote interfaces with the drivers side door lock unit to operate locks on all doors including drivers. The factory unit includes also wiring to all door sensors to confirm that doors are closed.
Aftermarket units don't need that crap indeed it is hindrance especially in case of rear barn door!  Thats why aftermarket units only need six wires as we don't need to make checks if the doors are actually closed, that just Japs stupid overzealous checking in case you leave keys in the vehicle etc...
First question: is Mongoose unit working? (even with remote right next to it) if it is then try to obtain information how it is wired up or wiring arrangement for it. How many wires are connected?
 
Second question: have you paired Ebay unit fobs with the Ebay unit? Use intructions/info how to provided with the unit, don't use Nissan OEM instructions it will not work!
 
Third question: if you connected Jaycar unit as per instructions, did you pair the fobs as per included instructions?
This is the one I have and it works brilliantly ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/remote-controlled-car-central-locking-system-with-2-keyfob/p/LR8839
The unit has learning button which needs to be pressed/held for 1 sec then pressing lock on each transmitter(fob) will pair them.
Did you do that?
Green and Blue wires are the only one needed....to lock unlock on this unit! Essentially if not concerned about indicators its just 4 wires.
Positive, Negative, Lock, Unlock,  and 2x Indicators
I removed glovebox on my car ST 2004, to check/confirm my wiring setup:
LR8839 side          Nissan side
Red                         Red/White     B+ 12V  (It means constant battery power)
Black                      Black              B- Ground/Earth
Blue                       Blue/Red        
Green                    Blue                
optional indicators:
Brown                  Green/Red
Brown                  Green/Yellow
According to my original post on other forum I might have swapped above Lock and Unlock wires so above list is working correctly.
I have cut those 6 wires on original Nissan plug off....
Then used 8 pin white plastic connector kit from Jaycar ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-8-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2069 

to make it nicer to connect to aftermarket unit existing harness ( I hate soldering wires) of which I had to cut a lot of length off! I only needed 0.5 m of those 6 wires. Rest I taped up away.
Cheers
 
LR8839_manualMain_76676.pdf

Good stuff, glad to be of assistance.
Regards

Mate, I don't think so as if it works via drivers door buttons.... You need to understand how the system works...
Did you read that thread I posted a link to?  It explains how the system works. Basically the remote unit just interfaces with/via drivers door control and remote relay. Did you actually pair the remotes as in supplied instructions?  If drivers door controls work then its only issue is the remote receiver.
As with any Remote control you're required to pair the fobs before they will work!

Just re-check that wiring is connected correctly... wiring diagram bellow. Bonus with aftermarket unit is that unlike factory unit there is no checking for doors properly closed which commonly an issue especially with rear door not closing properly with barn door sagging a little. Other then that it makes no sense why the Ebay unit doesn't work unless the signals are reversed....

I've replaced factory wireless receiver for keyless entry for exactly same reason with Jaycar kit, it worked right away.
I followed a thread on patrol4x4.com forum and added my 2 cents worth to the discussion ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/posts/6963332/
B/R

OK, if it is genuine turbo charger do not touch the adjustment, it is set at factory (Garret0 and can't be reliably set afterwards. I know some people have fiddled with it, my recomendation is don't.
It would be interesting to  note EGTs when under load whilst lacking power as that can point to a problem. If the temps are low that means not enough fuel and if very high means less air however trick is to understand that relationship. 
15 psi boost limit is standard factory setup without Dawes valve so what is the point?  So at what RPM are you seeing the 15 psi boost? 
ZD30 will usually operate around 8-12 psi happilly without you noticing "huge" lack of power you describe. Indeed as strange as it sounds at lower boost around 12 psi the ZD30 seems to have best fuel consumption vs power output but it will start to struggle if pushed harder without extra air comming in which will be indicative by rapid increase in EGTs once loaded easily flying past 600 C (not good). 
As an example I have mine setup with Dual Dawes/Tillix valves and manual overide where I can limit boost to max 14 psi vs top 22 psi in auto/max mode
That will see the same hill climb at 500C + /14psi and slowing vs 380C/19 psi and accelerating. Mind you mine is heavily modified including customized ECU remap.
So let me get this straight:
You have Dawes valve installed as boost limiter?
What controls spool up rate? is it factory ECU vnt solenoid?
I think you could have badly set up boost control but I still don't understand how you can even reach 15 psi then.
If you could list/obtain boost psi vs RPM vs EGTs and Go pedal position vs Air flow meter voltages that would help to pin point likely causes. Thats what I would do in order to narrow down the issues. A laptop with ECUTalk software and USB cable conected to diagnostic interface would help see and log the relevant data. 
Generally speaking Nissan Patrols with ZD30 4 cylinder engine from factory are pretty low on power anyway and do struggle of the line but once above 2000-2500 RPM they improve a bit showing most power around 2800-3000 RPM.  Still nothing to crow about though!
That engine struggles with the design choices Nissan made in lame attempt to control emissions and that pathetic fuel injection control from Bosch makes the things even worse. 
Regards

Hi,
I don't see an advantage installing Tilix valve with or without EGR block but I will need to explain it further.
The problem exists somewhere else. If you wish to maintain EGR as is then there is no point hacking boost control system because EGR will not function until boost pressure drops off (exhaust fumes pressure can't push back against turbo) That's why ECU will back off boost first then open EGR.
While EGR cools combustion temperature that is not done because or to lower catalyst temperature, there is nothing in the control system to monitor that part, system fully dumb hoping for the best....
What Tilix valve alone does is just limits max boost while giving max spool up rate which will create several problems to contend with as ECU will have no ability to control those and as such will have only one option left and that is to introduce those dreaded limps or fuel cuts. Max 10.5 psi at give TPS position and RPM until you reset the air flow (MAF volume) by letting go of the go pedal.
Higher boost creates higher air flow so what to do?  If you decide to keep ECU boost control and adding Tilix to the mix you're just wasting your money and effort as that achieves zilch.
Unfortunately the only thing left is combination of needle valve (very conservatively set to slow down spool up rate) Tilix set at max 17-18 psi and then fingers crossed to avoid fuel cut is to learn when to keep acc pedal not pressed down too long as RPM climb up.
You will be affected by cold weather, hot weather you name it. No amount of fiddling will fix it.
Because the fuel maps are set in the ECU to keep emissions low ECU will respond by limiting fueling the moment its predetermined limits are breached. It is hopeless struggle.
The only fix is to re-map the ECU, then you stop worrying about installing Tilix or anything else.
EGR is not opening every time, only under certain conditions like TPS position, MAF airflow, RPM etc.
It usually opens during a cruise (steady TPS) and not under acceleration. That's why those dreaded scenarios cruising on the highway boost is backed off, EGR opens, exhaust temps raise so the catalyst can do its work and everything is cooking in the meantime especially if the injectors are over fueling as well it becomes rich mixture and that is the end of the diesel engine.
 
 

Hello,
Firstly you need to tell us which model of Nissan Patrol and which engine?
TD42 uses glow plugs relay controller and ZD30 uses engine ECU to control glow plugs.
ZD30 will glow plugs on start unless engine operating temp is 70°C.
Regards

What a mess! Soldering wires if done properly should not affect readings however soldering is not performing well under mechanically stresed connections.
If I was repairing that loom I'd make intermediate plug/crimp joint in the wires but thats me,  even RAAF teaches its technicians that "soldering is for PCBs and crimping for cables and I had same training for my trade from the vehicle manufacturers....
As with the chip your best bet if you really want to know is to expose its internals aka check the PCB with all the electronic hardware.  Like this one ==>

 
Essentially repackaged DTE chip the grand daddy of them all.
Anyway, yours seems awfully like the DPU system or  Diesel Power Unlimited

I found the link to to it on Russian E-bay (DPU chip)
Regards

G'day,
I've never heard of "overboosting" switch, what is it?
Anyway here:






I would ensure that earthing circuit are correct. Y61 is notorious for bad earths, indeed I recommend running extra earth cable between chassis and body and en
gine and chassis.
Regards
 

G'day,
Chances are that ECU from the wreckers will not be very useful to you without immobilizer recoding. However hold on to that ECU cause you can send (unless you are close to mid coast of NSW) it to have it re-maped and as a part of it they can disable immobilizer so not only you gain extra ponies but keep your original ECU as well. Much better option then diesel "piggy back" dodgy chip.
As far as that "overboosting switch" there is no such thing as a switch.... What happens is that ECU monitors MAF output and correlates it to TPS position and RPM and if values are too high it will derate until you release pedal and re-apply which resets the limp process. That is what happens not the overboosting indeed ECU seems to ignore boost values in regards of this function on Series 1, 2, and 3. From Series 4 onwards there is mapping for boost as well incorporated in ECU fuel mapping and it will limp if you exceed 18 psi but still MAF, RPM and TPS% is considered.
Regards

G'day mate,
Well it all depends on how much $$$ you want to spend.  LS2 upgrade is very popular indeed there are dedicated Facebook groups to that conversion where everything needed is explained including links to suppliers of parts etc. (I can't help you with Facebook part you need to Google that) For example there are ready made engine mounts for LS2 to bolt on the ZD30 mounts for example so no cutting or welding is required.
To upgrade engine complete with the transmission you will have to find a donor car and get the complete set as fitted by the manufacturer because the mismatches around are all too common and there is nothing to make them fit if you get the 2 items from 2 different sources.....
Then there is legal paperwork hurdle you need to jump over too to get that conversion ticked off by the authorities, not sure what is the case in ACT.
So depending what is wrong with the ZD30 and how much deep you want to go to that rabbit hole the LS2 conversion is probably the best bet.
Regards

Yay, finally there, so far no problems.
Regards

If I were buying it would be GME or Icom.
 
I have a GME in the car and handheld.. they are good. Icom are the ducks nuts for those flash with cash.

Hi there,
I am in Texas with a 1991 Patrol GQ 2.8L diesel. Photos attached of course. Very hard for me to find cheap parts over here. Will need help locating some as the years go by! Anyone else in the US on here? Patrol came from France last year after 25 year import law. Name is Pierre Cargo

My name is Rich, and like many of you I have a passion for my Patrol, I have made some good modifications and some bad modifications over the past few years. I like working on cars and do everything I can with my rig.
The story of my Patrol.
I have a  gold 1999 gu patrol that strated life as 2.8TD, the engine was a little tired, so I decided to do a engine swop and install a ls77 (installed a bigger cam in the engine for more low down power and a bunch of other bolt on goodies). I also installed a 4.2 ledgendery gearbox and drive shaft as I still wanted a manual. I also installed a S/S patroldoctor snorkel and airbox. I have a 3" lift kit with a set of 33 mud tyres, a 3" custome made exhust with exstractors and all the usual bolt on stuff like lights and winch. I dyno tuned it when it was finished and was happy with the results, but I will get a few more kW with a few other modifications that dont cost a lot of money.
I have set up my rig for more touring than to have supper flex.I still have a few modifications to go before I can say she is finished, I am working on for my next project is a reverse scoop, has any one done one for ther patrol? 
I only have pictures of my engine bay and not what my rig looks like sorry for that 
Look forward to getting to know a few of you and drawing from the members experiance and knowledge and helping if I can with some of my experience.
 
 
 
 
 

What motor?
RD28 has crank sensor too, so does TD42Ti.....
if ZD30 Di  ==>
The crankshaft position sensor (TDC) monitors engine speed by
means of signals from the sensing plate (with three protrusions)
installed to the crankshaft pulley. The data signal output is detected
at ATDC 70° and sent to the ECM. The sensor signal is used for
fuel injection control and fuel injection timing control...
It has magnetic inductive sensor which is generating its own AC voltage or so is my understanding.
Only Hall effect sensors require power supply.
You really need an oscilloscope to measure anything in there...
You can measure however
resistance between crankshaft position sensor (TDC) terminals 1 and 2.
should be:  1200 -1600 Ohms at 20°C
* Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 47 and terminal 2.Continuity should exist.
* Check harness continuity between terminal 1 and ECM terminal 44.Continuity should exist.
* Check harness continuity between crankshaft position sensor (TDC) terminal 3 and engine ground. Continuity should exist.
Check the gap/clearance should be 0.2-1.8 mm

B/R
 
 
 
 
 

I've got Walbro FRB-13, good unit but I think I can make it even better with Walbro FRB-22 (higher output pressure) so I'll be changing soon to that one.
Other use Carter 4600 if I had space under bonnet (my preferred instalation location) I'd get FASS unit with built in fuel filters. With Carter you have make a by-pass installation if it stops running, with Walbro you don't its flow trough is unaffected if the pump is off.
Regards

G'day
I'd follow the advice ricster gave, I'm just unsure about TD42 plugs. If you search Bosch part numbers for example it will give GPN338 for TD42 and its derivates but not for RD28.
Also glow system in GQ's RD28 works in the different way so unless you rewire/change the control system I'd be wary of using TD42 glow plugs. RD28 uses ceramic glow plugs and 2 types as well [3 double pole units marked yellow are required per engine (last 3 cylinders) and 3 of the single pole plugs marked blue (Front 3 cylinders)] because of the way they can be operated so putting metal tipped cheaper ones from T42 without modding the controls will burn them quickly. See here ==>
Conversion kit for glow system GQ Y60 RD28
Regards

Real world feedback is the best. Thanks for sharing.
Regards

Still driving the Y62 Ti-L , 118,000 klms now .  Off road is superb , on road has always been superb . Towing : fuel consumption is high .  Im towing a drill rig on a 12 X 6 tandem trailer : so trailer and rig : 1.9 tonne .  Fuel consumption runs at approx. 21- 23 litres per 100 klms ( that's highway 100klm - 110 klm / h ) .  Normal highway use  not towing : 14 L/ 100 klms :  seems to be always the same .   I use the Y62 as my work car ... apart form parking sensors that are useless : its a pretty nice work car : on road / off road .  Im soil testing so offroad in paddocks , tracks , hills, scrub track and no track rough terrain :  whatever basically every day : I cant fault its 4WD ability . If you don't like the look of a car ... don't buy one .. or don't look it at ... lol

Hmm,
Are you sure you have enough fuel coming and it is not aerated? When I had injector lines off on mine it took me almost 45 mins of cranking and priming the system before it would finally start, very nerve wrecking experience to be sure.
I'd connect clear plastic hose between fuel filter and the pump and return line on the pump and the return pipe to see for myself. If there is no air present in the fuel then the news is/can be indeed the bad one for your vallet.
Are you sure there are no DTCs or engine MIL is not flashing? If the pump ECU doesn't respond to main ECU signal requests the MIL will flash, you can check that is the case by disconnecting the plug on the pump itself the MIL should flash (turn the ignition off first when disconnecting the plug)
* If there is no fuel pumping out of injection line at all that means that either:
* pump ECU is not powering up (either B+ or B- wiring is not OK),
* main ECU is not powering up (Ign+, B+ or B-)
* main engine ECU is not telling the pump ECU to start injecting fuel (NATS or data link between the ECUs is not OK)
* pump ECU and or Injection pump is broken
There is a way as a last resort to force pump ECU to operate in the so called hot mode by powering up/grounding certain pin/s but it is not for weak hearted and I'm not sure if it applies to 4 cylinder versions of VP44/Zexel units. ===>
Disclaimer: you must ensure that the pin outs are correct for your model! Above instructions are for 6 cylinder versions of Bosch VP44
There is also a very dodgy way to see if the engine will start at all (so you can discount other things) that you take  intercooler hose of between intake manifold of and spray healthy dose of Aero™ Start in there and crank to see what happens.
I personally would have to be very desperate to try that way as the possible damage caused makes me cringe!
Regards
 

Damn right! AC/DC at max volume.
I drove 16 L turbo charged intercooled straight six with 610 ponies with 6" stack no muffler for an hour today, my head still hurts....
Regards

That's to centre the filter I suppose, mine looks different but it has something similar to the lower section without that tube extending upwards, perhaps earlier design. Also the lower lip is to act as a barrier should the water get inside the filter box hence the drain hole outside of it.
Many people mistakenly block it and then face the consequences, although jury is still out in regards to it. 
Regards