Yendor

I did a write up on patrol 4x4 on the correct way to do this https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/adjusting-headlights-with-lifts-and-auto-levelling-lights.419045/

More than likely was a faulty ecu relay

More than likely a blown engine control fuse

Glad to see your on top of it Rumcajs....LOL

It will more then likely be a blown stop light fuse causing all 3 problems. The stop light fuse is fuse number 14 in the fuse box inside the vehicle. It's a 10amp fuse. If the fuse is blown you will need to find the cause. Start by checking the trailer plug and it's harness for possible damage.

It can be done with a change over relay. You would need to modify the wiring at the that electric aerial.

No worries mate. If your GU is an early model it will also be beneficial to run an earth lead to the chassis, either from the negative battery post or suitable place from the body. This will help overcome possible future problems with the sub tank and other electrical faults. Here's what Nissan recommend.

Start by disconnecting the battery for half an hour. This will reset the sub tank control module. Has the fuse blown again?

The reverse lights also run via this fuse. Check your reverse lights an trailer plug harness for damage.

Hey Nick, Welcome to the forum. Hope you pulled up alright after the weekend. Cheers Rodney

Repaired the damage (cause by my last trip to Glass House Mountains) to my RHS side step and remounted it. I wish my sliders would hurry up.

What type of tail lights are you using....LEDs?

Looking good. If you taking orders.......hehehe

The alternator sense fuse is located in the fusebox under the bonnet, on the plastic cover it is labeled as "ALT S". There was a guy on another forum over the weekend who also said he did not have power at the alternator for the sense circuit and his fuse was not blown, so there might be a common problem in the harness somewhere. Did you check for broken wires about and inch away from the alternator plug? it is common for for breaks to occur there.

Fuses are before the switch.

On the GUs the alternator sense wire is fused.

That's a strange one, normally it's just dirty contacts. You repair is not ideal, you now have both the LHS and RHS high beam running through the same fuse. Normally this is not a problem but the GQs have a problem with melting the headlight fuse holder when only one bulb is running through it. You would be better off using a relay.

I'm talking about a GQ.

The headlight part of the combination switch has 4 separate contacts. One set for drivers side low beam, one for passengers side low beam, one for drivers side high beam and one for passenger side high beam. So when you turn high beam on you should have power in two wires coming from the switch (Red with a Green trace wire and Red with a Black trace wire). The high beam warning light in the dash also gets it power from the same switch contacts as the drivers side headlight (Red with a Green trace wire). Because your high beam warning light also doesn't work I believe it's this one set of contacts that are dirty/faulty in your switch.

Hi all, Just thought I would drop in and say hello. My name Rodney and I currently own a GU IV automatic wagon with the ZD 30 engine. I see a few familiar names, hopefully I can contribute something to this forum. Cheers Rodney

Does the high beam warning light in the dash still light up when on high beam? If it does your problem has to be either a faulty bulb or a bad connection in the headlight plug or possible a break in the wiring running from the headlight into the switch. If your high beam light doesn't work (assuming the high beam warning light bulb is not blown) then the problem is more then likely dirty contacts in the switch. The Red with a Green trace wire at the headlight switch should have power in it when on high beam, if it doesn't, the problem it with the switch contacts. You can try bridging power from the Red with a White trace wire (in the same plug) to the Red with a Green trace wire to confirm the RHS high beam comes on.