KMsMK

Here ya go BigGQWesty the coilovers are in the final stages now and hoops are made and tacked onto the chassis ready and waiting for me to weld it all up but this will show you how much higher they sit now with the new tubes, ill also tomorrow take a picture with the cover off the back of my truck to see how far below the window they are.

Did a little bar work myself over the week, basically looks the same but has all new thicker pipe work and thicker center to hold a winch now.

Firstly i cut all the pipe work off and then raised the bar 30mm and pushed it closer to the grill by 15mm to get it sitting perfectly, then i bent up some 45mm pipe at 4mm thick for the main wings that wrap around the guards (this was the main reason to redo the bar work as the old setup stopped at the corner of the grill), then cut and notched some 30mm by 4mm thick pipe for the bracing under and behind the 45mm wings, next setup was to cut out all the old plate work which was only 2mm thick and replace it with 6mm plate that wrapped all the way under and back onto the mounts for added strength in the mounting. I also slotted and straightened out the spottie plate onto which i was originally going to cut away for access to the low mount and weld tabs to the main hoop for the spotties but decided against that as i am in my spare time going to try and build a full tube bar to hold a high mount or low mount that will sit in closer to the grill again for comp use.

Some quick pictures of before and during to the finished product.

Picked up and fitted the factory alloys today ready for the pits

Here is the long awaited flex shots with the 5 link in the front, thast only 6" shocks so im ordering new flexi coils and new longer shocks soon as i get other things on the list that are much needed done.

Any HID bulb going into a standard reflector will blind oncoming traffic. The only way to set up HID lighting correctly is installing HID projectors then installing HID bulbs. A proper HID bulb doesn't have high and low built into the bulb it's controlled by a solenoid which operated the cut off which looks like an eyelid covering half the bulb. When you hit high beam the solenoid opens the eyelids up giving you high beam.

It takes about an extra 2 hours to do properly but they leave halogen for dead and I've never been flashed by oncoming traffic with mine. The perfect cut off stops the light hitting oncoming traffic but they still produce awesome light.

Cheers Mick.

Been installing the new turbo to the mq over the last few weeks, using a toyota ct20 turbo so had to change everything, so far ive made the turbo flange adapter, adapted the oil and water lines to fit and now in the final stages of buildig the exhaust, built the 3" dump pipe last night and picked up the last of the mandrel bends and straight piece to finish the exhaust, if im not not ill bring over my build thread and update it this weekend

Over the last few days ive been working on installing the BCDC 1220 into my new patrol after taking it out of my previous Patrol.

The install was a pain in the arse as I first had to remove an old Pirhana Dual battery system (which was a basic isolator rather than sofistocated DC-DC charger like the redarc).

After removing the pirhana I had to mount the redarc and then re mount an existing fuse box. I ended up using a piece of angle aluminium and stainless steel bots/nuts to hold it in place.

The fuse block has heavy guage wire soldered to each fuse terminal and I covered the whole lot with flexible conduit to insulate it and hot then glued it into place.

Here are the pics:

Finally, I found a way to easily mount the tablet on the dash while 4WDriving. It turned out a lot simpler than I had anticipated, considering that I'd been mulling this for over six months now; funny how ideas come to you when you can't sleep. Anyway, the first thing I needed was a bit of metal plate, which I got from Mitre 10 and is basically a piece of flat used to join wood framework (75mm x 250mm) and which I panel beat to fit the front edge of dash:








I then worked out the best position for the stainless disk used by the mount (fit and fiddle with the mount until all was good), and then attached it the to the support plate (support) by removing the adhesive protector:




I then attached a flat bar at the windscreen end of the support (this is what will be used to hold the support in position):




Then came some painting:




Addition of protective material to the underside:




And the unit was complete:







Positioned on the dash without the final attachments and second protective material:




The entire assembly is going to be held in place with a couple of zip ties. The flat bar at the end will be the support for the zip ties that will be threaded through the vent braces and tightened; the support bracket will not move when the zip ties are in place. To add extra security to the mount itself, as I don't entirely trust suction cups, I plan to use two more zip ties that will go around the suction cup mount to the flat bar. Should the suction cup come undone for some reason, the mount and tablet will not move.

I also intend to place some foam in the pen holder, so that the tablet does not rub on the upper part of the dash. I'll add some final photos later, as it's now getting dark and I prefer to work when it's easy to see what you're doing.

The way this works is that I can leave the support bracket on permanently, and I'll see whether I like that; or attach the mount permanently to the support bracket and then just attach the lot to the dash when the need arises. The latter may be the better option, as it'll probably be easier to attach the zip ties to the vent when needed and the support bracket then won't cause any blemishes to the dash if permanently mounted. And another point about this mount, if I need access to the little enclosure, all I have to do is press a button on the top of the mount, pull the arm out and swing it up, and I can open the door to the enclosure.

This mount design will suit any tablet up to 10" size.

Cheers

Ray

Me and a mate Started making rock sliders/ side steps going to be bloody strong once fully welded and gusseted. The front mount is heaps stronger than most I have seen.

The more I read about this, the more I'm thinking about giving it a go with the mk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If yours is an NA like mine, that's what I have done. Drilled a 5mm Hole in the aircleaner lid right over the inlet and put the squirter right there.
You don't need ( or can) pressurise the tank because there is no turbo. The VDO pump will squirt just fine. You'll also see when you start the WI the manifold insides are black and crappy fron the PCV gasses. After a tank or 3 ( especially with meth) you'll see the insides of the manifold look like someone polished them. Imagine how the head, valves piston crowns and ports look!

After the water runs out the car still feels a lot peppier but in time if you leave the water empty the performance will have definately tapered off by the next tank.... on veg at least. The performance will then stabilise at something a lot more flat.
The rubber laying effect is significantly reduced/ eliminated.

The improvement in driveability off the juice is exaggerated with meth. The engine feels peppier for a lot longer and is a lot more pronounced. What the physical action is that's taking place to cause that I have no explaination.
I would suggest that it is the engine running cleaner but I can't imagine the thing being fouled to that degree so quick when off the squirt as to lead to that much performance drop off.
More over if it was fouling, the engine would stop within a couple of tanks so I don't see the engine internals being cleaner the whole explaination at least.

Someone did suggest to me once that they thought it may have something to do with the exhaust and mufflers that the WI cleaned and then sooted up to a cetain level. That does hold a bit more likleyhood to me.

I worked out a while back ( and providing memory is not failing me) that the extra energy from a 50/50 meth mix @ 300ml minute is conservatively 14Hp worth of extra fuel. Now that should take into account efficency losses and be pretty close to what you actually get at the flywheel.

The other thing is how dialed up your engine is in the first place.
Every diesel I have got my grubby mits on has been way underfueled from the factory. IF you have an IP thats not giving the engine all or near all the fuel it can burn, you'll get a big hit out of the WI just through the fueling effect. If you have it close to the amount of air the engine can cope with, then you may not be able to burn all the fuel and the effect won't be as great.

I notice less of an effect since I turned my IP up but that's because I'm getting more power already.
With a turbo where you could add fuel and keep the EGT's in check, then you'd really be able to get some benifit!

The cleaning effect or whatever it is has on driveability however is significant on or off the juice so is well worth while there.
Engines that haven't had water before also seem to have the most significacant and rapid improvement. My merc was transformed in the first couple of tanks of WI I used but i noticed very slight but constant improvements for about 3 months after the WI was fitted. The troll didn't have the same drawn out time frame. It took a few weeks to hit peak and that was it. Of course time is proportional to water pumped through. I may have been able to clean my engines well and truly in 4 hours with a drive up the country and a 20L tank of water/ meth.

The most fun is the first few hits with the WI on. You'll see great clouds of black crap coming out the exhaust every time you hit it. Should only do it a few times though then the main crap must be gone and the rest is released more subtley.
I had the WI running richer to start to the point of just stumbling after a while so it was cleaning best and then backed it off after a few tanks. You'll also notice yourself driving like a hoon flat out through the gears as the extra power gets addictive.

One thing also to be aware of with the meth.....
Again depending on the engine tune, you may get some nailing or rattling with the meth. This is either because you are running too high a mixture or just pumping in too much volume.
Personaly I like to keep the volume up as it aids cleaning and cooling and just dilute the water/ meth mix. For those chasing power, you would want to stay at the 50% mix, ( don't go over, you are just fueling with Meth instead of diesel then) and ajust the volume. On my cheapo system, restricting flow is just a matter of pulling the zip tie around the line to the nozzle a click or 2 tighter.
No expense spared I tell you.


And In case I missed it before:

Make sure you water tank is BELOW the level of your nozzle so the water can not syphon into your engine when it is shut off.

A twit on another forum missed that obvious bit of engineering and then bitched at me that WI was no good and caused his engine to bend a rod.
No idiot, your setup was no good and your stupidity caused your engine to bend a rod.

Here.....

hhmmm ... been on my mind as well. you might find this interesting. How to build rock sliders

it's fuxking pathetix

I think this entire issue of forum envy has gone on way too long. It's just as bad at Patrol4x4. No need to maintain a Hatfields and McCoys fued.

Cheers

Ray

A steampunk G60 would be ideal.

Cheers

Ray

It also points out the people that have too much time on there hands lol

If you get a snorkel you can hide the wiring pretty well


Wiring coming from engine bay


Wiring up the A pillar

View from the front

Yeah, it's a bloody shame about the moderators of the other one.

I used to use a RAM mount on a previous small notebook, attached to the windscreen via the RAM mount suction cup system, but it's simply not very good because the laptop sits too high and obscures visibility. I wanted something a lot better and which would sit low so that visibility was not obscured, yet gave good visibility to the screen. As it turned out, I found the near perfect solution. OK, this is partly DIY, because the main component has been purchased pre-made, but their is some modification required to suit the dash of the Patrol, which I have yet to fully design and make for the moment, to warrant a DIY moniker.

What I bought was a Kropsson HR-P850FTP tablet holder. It was a bit of a risk not knowing exactly how durable it would be, but for versatility over anything else I've seen, it couldn't be beaten. Anyway, when it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised at how well constructed it turned out to be. Some parts appear as if they would not be strong enough, but I think overall it will easily stand up to holding just about any tablet and my tablet, being a Windows 7 platform, is heavier than most.

As I said, I haven't fully fitted it yet and that's because the dash of the Patrol is curved and won't accept the flat suction cup assembly, so I'm going to have to build a platform on the dash so that it has a strong, flat, surface to adhere to. Here are a few shots of the holder placed on the dash to give an idea of how it sits and will work. As you can see, it sits perfectly on the top of the dash and allows you to lower the tablet so that it will rest on the pen tray (I intend to place some foam in the pen tray to provide an absorbent buffer).













While the assembly that holds the tablet doesn't look substantial enough, I've had the holder face down and given it a solid shaking and the tablet has not budged, so I don't have any concerns regarding it coming adrift while off-road. When all the components are locked in, the unit becomes pretty sturdy overall. Visibility over the dash is unhindered and visibility of the screen is perfect.

Once I work out the ideal solution for the suction cup mount, I'll provide an update on how it all comes together and works in real life. My idea is to get a sheet of stainless steel and build a platform from the front of the dash to the bottom of the windscreen, so that it's removeable, but solid when attached.

Cheers

Ray

Overall review.

Tigerz11 - Cheap shit would never buy one again, even after rebuilding, modifiying to take the much more engineered and stronger Aldi internals, it still warped the gearbox and has massive resistance, almost unable to spool out by hand.
Aldi - The best cheapest winch I have seen. Many of the eBay jobs are the same, not sure about material quality but as they are all 'No Brand' winches, you could assume they are the same. By far the choice over the Tigerz11 12,000lb even it they are only 9,000lb. Tigerz11 are a gmock and could never ever ever pull 12,000lb without busting.
Warn - Best by a quite a bit, obviously you pay the price, but proven engineering. I'ld not look elsewhere as secondhand Warns are as good if not better than any brand new chinese stuff and the same price off eBay plus maybe a $100 rebuild depending on condition of course.

Tigerz11 - Marketed product for the masses, not an engineered product for the user. Would never recommend them to anyone. Spend your money elsewhere and get something better for cheaper or the same price.

Tut tut.

You guys just aren't bad enough to run with threats to society like us!

Like I said befre, Just ask how the other place is going and what their take over plans are.
You could also ask exactly what all the hard work they did was if they couldn't contact the owner?
Sins like that should earn you a hasty Spanking by the resident School Mistresses and gain you right of passage into the Bad Boyz club.

Seems the rate they are going over there, the Bad Boy's Club will have more members than they will soon!

I figured that now ive got the new laptop there is no excuses for not putting up a few pics of the rig

Its a 2008 ST wagon that I bought new in May of 08 and have spent the last 4 years adding and modifing it.