Rumcajs

ARB used sell that raiser together with a light pole. Could try here https://www.nissangupatrol.com/product/spare-wheel-spacer-bracket/ but is out of stock, or here https://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/gq-gu-nissan-patrol-spare-wheel-spacer-light-pole~10258 or here https://www.the4wdshed.com/gq-gu-spare-wheel-spacer-bracket-rear-light-pole-p or indeed here https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/products/roadsafe-4wd-spare-wheel-spacer-bracket-for-nissan-patrol-gq-gu The raiser is mixed blessing as if you have not found out the barn door cracked yet that spacer will make sure it will crack! The only fix is to get the door frame reinfoced before it cracks or get that wheel off the door and get rear bar with wheel carrier. As for the additonal filter, well good luck with that one. I'd get this instead https://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html which you can buy from Bunnings ==> https://www.bunnings.com.au/mr-funnel-medium-fuel-filter-funnel_p0098863 Regards

Glow relay is directly controlled by engine ECU it grounds the relay for its timer operation.... Positive supply is for both actual glow power and control from same fuse 100A.

I can give you wiring diagram but I have no idea of your level of expertise. Is it from manual or auto? Cheers

Lift pump in what 2003? Patrol? With what engine? ZD30, TD42? Cheers

Hi, Yes I do have it kinda like that, I've added fuel cooler to the return as well but can't really make/notice the difference. When ambient temperature is 50C I've seen fuel temperatures reaching scary 65C. Heat is VP44 injection pump killer ( you probably need fuel heater not the cooler). I kinda wish that I've obtained bigger lift pump e.g. Walbro FRB22 as on WOT the fuel pressure drops to almost negative with mine FRB13.2.... advantage with Walbro over Carter is that these reciprocating pumps are flow through design so on a few occasions I forgot to turn mine on the IP internal vane pump still delivered. Regards

Ok, I think you need to explain what is going on. So far it appears that your issue all along is that engine is not starting and not crank sensor being cooked. Hence my confusion why you're going on about IP issues. Firstly check all the grounds and power supplies. Ensure that battery is able to crank as weak battery causes lower cranking speed/RPMs which can cause no start. Ensure glow plugs are sound, ZD30 hates to start bellow 15°C without glow. Confirm there is no air in the fuel between filter and IP. Firm primer means jack. The instruction you've found are for 6 cylinder version of VP44 as fitted to yankie utes with Cummins engine.. It should technically work but without glow plugs it will need to be tried when is warmer weather above 22°C You can also make your own pump module diagnostic interface, instructions including software are posted here. That could help you communicate with pump module to see if it self reports an issue. Bosch diesel injection specialists have such tool. How many kays? If above 200k consider to remove IP correctly and send it to diesel specialist for rebuild, including replace injectors. Do you have any mods done like additional fuel lift pump, etc? I do recommend to invest in ECU Talk cable/interface if you have a laptop, that way you can coms with ECM and see a bit more then flash code MIL. B/R

I'm sorry but that sounds likely you've cooked up ECM itself as that ECM is located right in the centre just next clutch pedal above transmission hump. Fingers crossed you've just blown ECM relay power supply fuses. However, are you sure that system works at 5V? The crank sensor is sending pulse voltage indeed at 2000 RPM pulse signal is reaching 12V with 5 ms pulse. You can check if the ECM is kaput by observing if glow plugs light comes on briefy when ignition key is turned on or does MIL light turn on at all? I'd try ECU Talk software and cable to attempt to connect to ECM to see what happens. If you check all the fuses/fusible links and all is OK but no ECM response you can ssume the worst. It is also possible that you've blown the crank sensor or that part of the circuit in the ECM... Engine will not start unless ECM sends command to IP ECU. B/R

Mate, that doesn't make sense as low range increases torque ratio requiring even less power/torque from the engine which means less work for clutch! What about in High 4WD mode or without front diff lock? Anyway I suspect your transfer case is locking up or has a fault. Any oil in it? That would be my first check to see what oil looks like if any. Then I'd jack whole car up and drive/try to see what is going on. Regards

I'm not familiar with Y62 but this sounds like electrical issue with engine ECU. Either the power supplies or grounding which is most common issue. I'd check the related circuits, modern cars have various fusible links attached to positive terminal of the battery so check if one of those is not for engine ECU and is not compromised. If it is random but is related after the engine is fully warmed up that could possibly be the case for loose contact on the grounding for engine ECU as well. You should check those first. As to where I have no idea as I have no access to Y62 information. Because there are no DTCs related to engine shutdown that means loosing power supply to the engine ECU unless ECU is faulty. Regards

Yeah, a bit of conundrum so to speak, in any case to me if that pump has genuine 300K + on it well due for overhaul so indeed if you wish to continue with ZD30 then having IP rebuilt and injectors replaced it could be the investment for the future. Alternatively engine swap (not with another ZD30 lemon) like Cummins or Barra/LS scenario with significantly more dough spent but future proofed perhaps. Apart from connecting the scanner and reading the actual pump ECU there is nothing else you can do now . In the previous post I posted a link to the thread where there are instructions howto make your own including software to use. If you succeed making one I'm sure there would be a few ZD30 owners interested. As to "Rumcajs" nickname well it is easier to have non English nickname on the various (English spoken) forums and thanks to world wide web finding such gems are possible. Rumcajs was fictional children's tale "gallant bearded bush ranger" hero from Czechia....any associations with the "rum" are purely coincidental although word rum is also used in Czech language to identify same alcoholic liquid. Regards

Nah, don't tow it anywhere especially Ni$$an $tealer, it sems you're brave enough so you can pull the injection pump out yourself. It is not that hard to follow the instruction and if you set the motor in right position before removing the pump it is certainly easier to refit it. There are Bosch/Zexel diesel specialist which can rebuild or do a change over. I'd would however make sure that it is 100% faulty before taking it out although the mileage suggests it could be. These pumps suffer greatly from fuel starvation so key is to be fully aware if that is happening. So do fuel return mod and fit extra fuel lift pump as well if you're replacing the pump and don't forget the injectors too, those can't be rebuilt just replaced and lifetime is not long. Good luck.

While ago in this thread I posted some info about injection pump on ZD30. This is for people who either live on the edge or know what they're doing. As to what you need to get the pump ECU to respond you will need to search online. That trick with bypassing ECM was advised by fuel injection specialist in the States (older Dodge Rams used 6 cylinder version of that abomination VP44. So if you search for VP44 trouble shooting you might find it. I can't find that link now its late and I probably have it bookmarked on my other computers not this lappie I'm using now. Remeber its very deep rabbit hole.... Cheers

The way it works is that ECM waits for OK from immo unit then send signal to IP when cranking occurs to start fuelling. Normally immo unit is powered up and grounds the little light on top the dashboard in front of the driver to signal what is going on. If it is blinking when key is off and out then it means it is active. On key On it lights up and goes out if everything is OK and engine starts. The IP is not involved in this case. The other way is to make ECM to not bother with immobilizer but that requires re-mapped ECM. It is possible that those codes indicate an issue which does not cause the start up issue but MIL lamp would be on too if it is related to engine start. However I will caution here because Nissan is guarding those code well so only $tealer can diagnose if that is indeed an issue unless you have a working copy of Nissan Consult 2,3,4 software and appropriate interface to connect to the truck and run self check on immobilizer unit. If everything is original it is possible that thats what is causing an issue however it is impossible to by-pass unless you obtain NATS emulator control box to fool the ECM. The injection pump is unfortunately another "lemon" and it has been known to cause starting problems without any codes displayed by the main ECM. Search for VP44 injection pump issues to see how deep that rabbit hole is. If that is the case you need Bosch scanner which connects directly to injection pump so called K-line interface to see if the pumps ECU reports anything wrong. There are a few tricks to trick the pump ECU or to see if it is indeed pumps ECU faulty by powering the pump standalone and then crank which should make it to start the engine but it will only idle. Cracking the injector line unfortunately is not reliable method to establish that pump is functioning correctly. So yeah not a good prospect I will attach some pages for trouble shooting immobilizer ...EC doc deals with ECM control and EL deals with wiring as well as immo unit ec.pdf el.pdf

G'day, There is possibility that NATS issue is irrelevant unless you want explain circumstances behind the 2005 engine installation, e.g did you keep existing ECU and its control system? Is the replacement motor just "long motor" complete unit including injection pump, engine harness and engine ECU with immo unit and keys as well or did you have the keys reset at Nissan $tealer...? As 2001 and 2005 control systems differ I'd like to know what has been done. There is also possibility that IP is has failed but you'd normally get some errors on that even if just generic codes..... I can give you complete immo system trouble shooting information but if you let me know what is actually in your car now would help narrow it down... You should see the immo light blinking or be solidly illuminated if not the you have an issue. for the light to work check fuse no 24. Fuse no 25 for immo unit ignition feed, fuse no 50 constant battery fed to immo unit. Regards

Hi, I don't see an advantage installing Tilix valve with or without EGR block but I will need to explain it further. The problem exists somewhere else. If you wish to maintain EGR as is then there is no point hacking boost control system because EGR will not function until boost pressure drops off (exhaust fumes pressure can't push back against turbo) That's why ECU will back off boost first then open EGR. While EGR cools combustion temperature that is not done because or to lower catalyst temperature, there is nothing in the control system to monitor that part, system fully dumb hoping for the best.... What Tilix valve alone does is just limits max boost while giving max spool up rate which will create several problems to contend with as ECU will have no ability to control those and as such will have only one option left and that is to introduce those dreaded limps or fuel cuts. Max 10.5 psi at give TPS position and RPM until you reset the air flow (MAF volume) by letting go of the go pedal. Higher boost creates higher air flow so what to do? If you decide to keep ECU boost control and adding Tilix to the mix you're just wasting your money and effort as that achieves zilch. Unfortunately the only thing left is combination of needle valve (very conservatively set to slow down spool up rate) Tilix set at max 17-18 psi and then fingers crossed to avoid fuel cut is to learn when to keep acc pedal not pressed down too long as RPM climb up. You will be affected by cold weather, hot weather you name it. No amount of fiddling will fix it. Because the fuel maps are set in the ECU to keep emissions low ECU will respond by limiting fueling the moment its predetermined limits are breached. It is hopeless struggle. The only fix is to re-map the ECU, then you stop worrying about installing Tilix or anything else. EGR is not opening every time, only under certain conditions like TPS position, MAF airflow, RPM etc. It usually opens during a cruise (steady TPS) and not under acceleration. That's why those dreaded scenarios cruising on the highway boost is backed off, EGR opens, exhaust temps raise so the catalyst can do its work and everything is cooking in the meantime especially if the injectors are over fueling as well it becomes rich mixture and that is the end of the diesel engine.

Yep, that could be why you see just static boost pressure value, do an exercise and disconnect MAP (boost) sensor to check if values change. ECU will not log the fault at least it didn't on earlier models (Series 1, 2) Normal reading is around 14-15 psi at idle (it read absolute pressure that means atmospheric + actual boost). As to unable to go over 100 km/h, when on the flats, going up hill, towing 3T trailer? The reasons can be all sorts. Even MAF sensor not reading correctly at higher RPM air flow values. If it is cutting out on acceleration then it is cutting fuel back because MAF values are too high for given RPM and TPS position. It could also be simply starving for fuel so ICV% values can give a clue, if significantly bellow 50% under acceleration it means it is starving for fuel. As to Tilix, 3" dump pipe and EGR plate that is primary candidate for so called limp mode kicking in. Anything else you have there to control spool up rate? Do you know what boost pressure is Tilix set to? If it is set above 18 psi it means that with that high pressure you also increasing air flow which MAF detects and based on ECU smoke maps if it exceeds hard limits it limps or blocks pressure around 10.5 psi (that is what used happen on mine) Tilix valve alone does jack ...it only limits boost which is not your issue. Issue is MAF air flow sensor and its values. I'd need to know more about your setup. I have Tilix on mine for 22 psi cut off, needle valve set to get 18 psi bellow 1900 RPM (which is dangerous to turbo) and second Dawes set to 14 psi for lower boost level when I feel like (city driving, cold morning etc) and of course remapped ECU ..... The factory defaults can't be beaten and it is futile exercise attempting to do so I'm afraid. The best way is to get ECU remapped but last time I've heard the gentleman from West Coast Performance Centre is not doing it anymore. Consolation is then to set everything to bearable levels to avoid those dreaded fuel cuts (limps) Then you can take advantage of 3" dump pipe and Tilix valve. With ECU Talk you can log(CSV file) sensors to evaluate after road test to see what is going on. You can use graphing software to create more visual easier to identify what is happening. To find out if yours is limping set throttle sensor, RPM, MAF sensor, and vehicle speed for logging then you can evaluate. Example if MAF Voltage exceeds 3.4 V at 2800 RPM and 30% TPS it will cut fuel back (limp) . Ideally you'd want boost as well so you can see directly if there is an issue but you can't do it on yours. There are several RPM and TPS points e.g. 2000, 2400, 2800 3200 and 3800 RPM with corresponding TPS values if I remember correctly. This all has to do with engine smoke not turbo protection etc. Regards

Which version is your GU? Turbo boost read is only supported on Series 4. Cheers

Just wondering, have you marked the injectors and refitted in original order? CrD injectors use trim codes which are entered in in the ECM work parameters so if you mixed them up.....Anyway after all that work carried out be injectors replacement after 300k should be also considered. Regard

Hello, Technically speaking I'd seek to identify as what causes it to loose power at particular RPM. Is it limps in cause it is having faulty reading from its sensors? You will need to know what boost pressure, fuel rail pressure, MAF airflow etc to be able to identify or pin point the cause. Is TPS sensor working correctly, does ECU see 100% throttle? Anyway, what was cause of the surging? Another point is to check if VNT actuator goes fully up when engine is idling, there is no vacuum leak in th eactuator circuit and so on... Regards

G'day, I'm not sure how to go about this one. There is no direct connection to IC from engine temp sender or so it seems as any reference to such arrangement only point to non CrD versions. ZD30 CrD uses CAN link to display engine temp on IC (Instrument cluster). I'd use OBD2 interface to the engine to get that data directly from the engine via OBD scanner/LCD display or I knew a person who upgraded his stereo to full Android version and had suppost on it for OBD2 scan so he used Torque app or similar to display engine data on his stereo display, he converted ZD30 non common rail (non CrD) to LS2 engine.... Regards Edit: On further thought, maybe reason for temp gauge showing incorrect value is because LS temp sender has different range so you might want to get original Nissan sensor and compare resistance value accross the range. If that is the case perhaps adding additonal resistor to the circuit to compensate/change as required. I actually ignore IC temp sender altogether, I'm not sure about common rail version of ZD30 but on mine the temp gauge in IC is useless cause same as Toyo the gauge doesn't adjust/change in the ranges 89-100~ C only suddenly jumps to red but by that time it is too late. This is deliberate design as to hide temp fluctuation under heavy load as it raises and falls depending on engine load but down side is that if it doesn fall back and keep raising it gives no working what is coming until in red! So I use ECUTalk LCD unit and read temps directly of engine ECU where I can see the fluctuations/raise whatever. It saved my ass few times when engine was cooking because of various reasons....I caught it early and backed off in time.

G'day, You are not telling which version of yours but chances are you will need to reset the limit switch. I'm trying to upload the instructions but it seems to fail so text only:(false alarm it seems it doesn't like Firefox web browser) Front Door Limit Switch Reset (Driver side only) RESET CONDITIONS After each of the following operations are performed, reset the limit switch (with built-in motor). I Regulator removal and installation I Removal of motor from regulator I Operation of regulator as a single unit I Door glass removal and installation I Glass run removal and installation RESET PROCEDURES After installing parts, proceed as follows: 1. Close the door window completely. 2. Press the reset switch and open the door window completely. 3. Release the reset switch. After making sure the reset switch has returned to the original position, close the door window completely. 4. The limit switch is now reset. CAUTION: Be sure to manually open or close the door window. (Do not use the automatic open-close procedures.)

Actuator should not be moving up/down at idle. It means there is a vacuum leak somewhere. If yours has vac canister those usuallu leak.... It is safe to just bypass it to check leave out. Cheers

G'day, The auto trans is not 5 speed with ZD30 (Only with TB48 Ti). the OD gear is 4th. I'd check when was the last time the transmission service was carried out. I'd also check condition of the fluid. Other then that autos are not for the faint hearted and I'd probably be looking at asking specialist. Judging by the age and distance traveled I'd consider transmission overhaul. By any chance you'd tow a caravan/camper trailer with it? If you are ask yourself how many times you did that with OD engaged. Its the unwritten sin towing in OD.

Unfortunately the online images service (Photobucket) has decided a while ago to make all the free accounts not so free so in the process ruining a lot of forums around the world. Unless OP decides to upload those images in here and re-edit the posts nothing can be done, its a shame because it was very nice thread. Cheers

Hi, Checking ground connections would be the first point of call, probably even adding extra earth strap to body would be beneficial. I'd still extract error code/s to see what is the system is up to. The symptoms described point to injection pump issues. Regards