Rumcajs

I'm sorry mate I wouldn't know, but you could try PM/message member jff45 , he's a resident expert on TB45 engines. Regards

Good luck with that bud, the best bet is/would be to try wreckers or buy the whole car for cheap from someone. Being 1985 model I'd make my own as long as I'd have a wiring diagram...... Regards

G'day mate. I'm sorry but you've committed the "Cardinal sin" by Garrett, fiddling with the adjustable actuator rod. As far as them is concerned the turbo is a write off. Anyway I think its not all lost. If you haven't touched stop/grub screw for max opening than it can be salvaged. I'm assuming you have lengthened the actuator rod. With the engine running confirm that actuator lever goes up and lever touches the stop/grub screw, if it doesn't than the rod is too long hence vanes aren't opening fully and lack of boost bellow 2,000 RPM. With engine off and vacuum hose disconnected, disconnect the rod from the lever and allow it to drop to its lowest position than via trial and error test the length until you get full up movement so the lever rests fully against the upper stop screw when engine is running. See pic bellow, ignore the instruction (in the picture) telling you to turn the stop screw in clockwise direction. Remember the goal is to get the actuator rod length right. The problem with this approach is that min flow is impossible to set so the lowest point of the VNT actuator lever is not the best reference point in any case the max position is the goal, at certain vacuum pressure ..... Extra info (excerpt) from Garrett: Garrett VNT™ Turbochargers To repair or not to repair ~ is it worth the risk? By Trevor Cass, Garrett IAM Product Support Engineer (Europe, Middle East & Africa) The turbocharger aftermarket has traditionally been a place where a customer had the choice of buying a brand new or a remanufactured turbo. However, the rapid development of the turbo, alongside developments in engines, fuel injection systems and engine management, has meant that this must change. In order to comply with strict emission controls, our turbos have become much more technologically advanced – which, in turn, means they are more difficult to repair. Because the VNT™ is far more complex than a conventional turbo, repair and remanufacture can’t be done correctly without specialist equipment and information. Indeed, even with the equipment in our factory, we ourselves don’t remanufacture. We know that new units are the risk-free option. When we build new turbos we calibrate them to three decimal places, with a number of checkpoints used to ensure correct operation. A remanufactured turbo would also need to be calibrated to the same degree of accuracy. But calibration of a VNT™ turbo on its own is completely worthless without the critical first stage being completed: setting the ‘minimum vane open’ position. The Garrett VNT™ components are manufactured to extremely tight tolerances but, due to the large number of parts and the clearances needed for the safe and efficient operation of a VNT™, each individual turbo has to be tested and adjusted after assembly, to ensure that it meets the engine manufacturer ’s specified flow setting. Any disassembly of the VNT™ turbo will mean that the minimum vane open setting must be reset before the calibration process can be completed. We set the minimum flow vane position by using a calibrated turbine flow bench which measures the actual airflow through the vanes of every single VNT™ that we make, and allows us to set and lock the minimum flow position to suit each application. It is not possible to set the calibration of the actuator to OE specification until the minimum vane open position is set. Without a turbine flow bench, a remanufacturer can only guess that the airflow is correct: the turbo may operate, but it is highly unlikely that it will work to its optimum efficiency. Read the rest ==> http://www.turbo.com.sg/e-news/Garrett%20VNT%20-%20Non-repair%20buletin.pdf think of it what you will....

Have a safe trip and relaxed Easter whenever/wherever you are heading or staying. Regards

Anyone has any experience with these tyres? I was originally after Kelly Safari TSR but they've none available in Oz with ETA unknown. MY next choice was Maxxis MT764 but heard they wear out a bit faster for my liking. I just bought them a week or so ago, first experience seems positive so far, not very noisy I'll test them off road next weekend (Easter) in Flinders. Regards

Decided to change brake pads all over before Easter trip. Interestingly found that aftermarket pads might not be necessarily better from how much material they contain. Genuine pads front 12 mm aftermarket 9-10 mm, rear 10 mm aftermarket 8 mm. Makes me wonder what is going on. Well time will tell if it was the good decision to go with these fancy Bendix hybrid pads. They certainly have less "meat" on them than genuine Nissan ones.

You will need one of these ==>

G'day mate, I don't know who your source is but chances are it is false. Nissan AU has given up on Y61 series. In any case it is too late the damage has been done. The sales figure are so low that that anyone but blind Fredie can see that Patrol in Y61 skin is "dead, burried and cremated" to paraphrase the idiot politician in charge of the place. Another issue to consider is the diesel emission and the shackles such engine will need soon to comply. Honestly I don't care what Nissan or anyone else will come up with now, Nissan is 10 years too late minimum with decent diesel and with all that emission junk attached to it now is simply too much of liability. Just look what Nissan has done with Pathfinder and Y62 and is about to do to Navara. These vehicles are now Yanks junks only clueless bozos buy. Nissan has mislead folks by badging Infinity Q56 as Patrol but it ain't that. The age of tough and dependable 4WDs are over, replaced by wanabe soft roaders for urban shopping centres carparks and soccer mums taxis. Think about for a minute, why would they bring vehicles with Cummins 5L V8 to such small market like AU with huge costs to engineer in an ute segment which is so crowded with other player? Even Navara outsold Patrol. I'm highly sceptical to say it but it ain't happening. Regards

G'day mate, Well the screw appears to be a stop position of max opening of the valve. Setting it up is described bellow ==>

Good luck with that one mate. What you can do is, measure all the ODs required and than chase the silicon hoses as required. Don't forget to update the hose clamps to good quality T-clamps or spring loaded constant tension clamps. Regards

It is a very fiddly procedure and generally not recommended unless you are very desperate. What you basically do is to change the adjustment of the stop screw to limit how far the vanes open. Get it wrong (reduce the length and vanes will scrape against the housing) Some people even go that far as to change/adjust the length of the VNT actuator but I strongly caution against that because if you get it wrong you'll ruin the turbo charger. According to Garret (turbo maker) this adjustment are done on their specially calibrated bench and once disturbed can't be set correctly again. Indeed these turbos are not re-buildable because that as no one has that bench but Garret. There are even Youtube videos how to do this (not on Patrol though) Some people use fishing line to attach it to the "Jesus" clip on the actuator (because it has to be disconnected in order to access the stop bolt)so they don't loose it as space/access is very tight and it is easily lost. Regards

G'day mate, Welcome aboard. Feel free to share your experiences as a new driver and as 4WDriver. Regards

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. EGTs reaching sub 700°C is common on CrD ZD30. The only thing you can do to alleviate that is to drive to the EGT gauge. Consider 600°C your max limit and back off, drop a gear (if in 5th for example) learn not to have "lead" foot for sure. What could help you is to take boost control away from engine ECU by fitting needle valve and Dawes valve combo and that will rise your boost levels and reduce EGTs. ECU backs off turbo vanes as you floor it or cruise along which will increase EGTs as less air more/more fuel goes in. (emission control) I recommend to investigate this option if you haven't done it already. Bigger intercooler and free flowing exhaust you have already fitted actually contributes to lowering EGTs post power up in another words helps recover the temps downwards quicker. Shimming EGR can also increase the EGTs somewhat. Change of driving style will definitely improve your EGTs. Remember Patrol is not speed demon and there is no point overtaking or powering up hill to keep up with HSV or FPV cars. Honestly it sometimes chits me to tears when I have to drop speed back to 80km/h to keep EGTs under control but that is the nature of the diesel powered beast. Climbing the hill in 4th (or 3rd in auto) direct will have the desired effect. Regards

Unless you see those MAF voltages you're guessing but correctly as on yours boost doesn't affect the limp. Go on disconnect the boost sensor and it will still limp. There are set points observed for limp based on RPMs, 1,950, 2,700 and 3,400. Example MAF voltages over 3.98V bellow 3,000 RPM will trigger limp. 3.65v bellow 2,000 RPM will limp..... JDVM will allow you to tune those voltages to within 0.25 Volts at set points as required The other way is to retard the spool up but the performance will suffer a little. Regards

There are easy(cheap) alternatives, if you have Clarks rubber store nearby than they sell all sorts of foam inserts, just get the right size and length. Alternatively (more expensive) you can buy one from E-Bay AIRBOX-LID-SEAL-Manufactured-exclusively-for-Patrol-for-shape-fit or go to CBC Bearings and buy one of their "O" rings which also fits, part no: BS445A Regards

G'day mate, welcome to the forum. I suggest you take it to the competetent workshop for diagnosis. This could be caused by a few things but in either case MIL (malfunction indicator light or check engine lamp) should light up and DTCs(diagnostic trouble code/s) are set which will tell what the problem is. That would be my first check. This does sound like fuel rail pressure problem or possibly accelerator pedal sensor playing up which is known problem on ZD30 with common rail (CrD) injection system. I'd also change fuel filter just in case if no codes are present. Regards

G'day mate, Welcome to the forum. Feel free to share your "trials and tribulations" of ownership of Patrol and 4WDriving in any shape or form. Kind Regard

G'day mate, When you look underneath the mudguard/wheel arch towards the front of the vehicle there is a recess with 2x M6 studs+nuts sticking out and further backwards higher up in the arch the 3rd stud poking. Regards

G'day, welcome to the forum. In regards to Crd ZD30 (common rail diesel) while the top end of the engine has been improved to keep up with higher injection pressure hence the "grenading" issue of previous model has been reduced, the fundamental design flaws remain. I would definitely install CCV catch can/oil separator as keeping the intake clean of oil residues with corresponding carbon gunk build up is a good thing. Knowing what your engine is doing is also important so installing boost and EGT gauges should be high on your list. I'd also have another earth strap between the body and chassis installed. These mods should not affect your warranty. The rest is possibly there with voiding it: Take control of boost away from ECU (more power and better response) EGR shimming with better flowing exhaust another positive for power output. Personally I'd investigate the glow plugs operation to make sure there is not another 5 mins timeout (really bad idea) as on previous model and if it is I'd install 30 secs timer and if EGR is shimmed I'd disable the swirl valve control as well. Regards

I'm not sure I follow as I gave you disc brakes diagram itself (overview of parts) and dismantling part. Are you after installation/asssembly part too? I went through entire manual I have from 1997-2007 (includes Australian models) and there is no change in any revisions to actual hardware in that manual. It appears that dismantling instructions are more or less similar with just extra notes if it is drum or disc brake type. Now what I posted is semi floating type H233 setup and as far as I'm aware H260 full floating type setup is on leaf suspension utes with drum brakes only.. but being Nissan it is possible that you have H260 with semi floating axles and disc brakes but I'm only familiar with H233 axles. I just checked GQ service manual and instructions are identical (why wouldn't they be, the same axles) Regards

G'day mate, Welcome to the forum. Yes, you will need a press/puller to remove bearing .... See pages bellow: Regards

Well, after procrastinating for sometime I have bit the bullet and bought Oztent RV4, may my valet soul rest in piece! Cheers

Well, if you are happy with ~20L/100 km than go for it. Cheers

Oops, I should have read the question better ,those figures are from my GU4 ZD30. Need to have my eyesight checked....

4.8 L is top of the line Patrol in Y61 series, has much better brakes, 5 speed auto and usually only in Ti trim. However it will drink between 18-22L/100 on the black top so I'd hate to think what it drinks in deep sand... Good for Gulf states where petrol costs 0.19 US but in Oz ...