Rumcajs

See here ==> Water in fuel detector B/R

Sorry bud, they didn't really stuffed up, they just left it as on ZD30 where filter warning is connected to MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light aka engine check lamp). Because yours is ex ZD30 model you dashboard doesn't have filter light decal but MIL decal instead. If yours was OEM TD42 it wouldn't have MIL decal but filter light. Its all in the decals as pinouts on both displays are the same. As a matter of curiosity on TB45 (petrol models) it is immobilizer light. Abbreviations: EG ==> ECM (e.g ZD30) models MIL/Check Engine TD ==> TD42 fuel filter SN ==> TB45 immobilizer Regards

Patrol OEM filter housing uses little float which connects to ground when lifted up by water inside the housing as it is more dense than fuel. Or just unplug the connector and bridge the terminals inside, the light should come on. Cheers

Funny bugger aren't ya! You already have a Toy.... -o-t-a .... so keep it, we just have real trucks LOL......seriously I have a mate who is looking in to getting his first 4WDrive and he's considering Prado, he currently owns RAV4 and is very happy with Toyota brand except he can't go/take RAV4 where I go with mine. Anything to watch out for, concerns, things to avoid? Cheers

I knew you gona ask that! Anyway see bellow:

Yeah, but you have glow timer control unit which essentially does the same thing and it controls the glow light so easily hacked. You could create a circuit which would have a control relay going to ground when powered via glow signal from control unit and connect wire to that control relay so the glow light will be on while "glow" is on. The reason for extra relay is because control unit powers up glow relay so it is positive or + signal where you need ground or - signal for glow light. It is simple setup if you want to see that light on when glow plugs are powered.

Simply, intercepted the wire from ECU and connected it to the extra timer so whenever timer is active and grounded the glow light is on.

Uhm, Nissan preheat/glow plug dash light doesn't work correctly from factory full stop. I see nothing wrong with your setup, at least it is telling you that glow is on unlike Nissan factory option which tells you nothing while glow plugs are glowing stupid for 5 mins after the engine has been started and coolant temp is bellow 70°C. So the factory set up is that when you turn ignition key on the glow plug light illuminates for about 2 secs and then goes out which is meant to tell you it is OK to crank/start the engine while glow plugs are still burning .... for up to 5 mins afterwards if the engine is running. Well, fcuk me stupid but I don't want to be told this useless information, I actually want to know that glow plugs are ON! I've hacked the glow plugs control system, glow light is on for duration of glow plugs being powered, have separate timer which only keeps the juice for 30 secs and I have overide push button to stop the process completely whenever I choose to or even avoid it. I'm sorry but I don't need glow plugs to be red hot when ambient temp is 38°C. My setup means that I prolong the service life of glow plugs and avoid unecessary operation when not needed. Cheers

For those in the market for camping/beach gazebo do yourself a favour and stay away from Boab products. I'm the unfortunate owner of this Chinese made crap sold through Ray Outdoors pathetic establishment and sadly because I displaced the receipt I'm unable to return this shyte for full return. What a rubbish product. I used it in total about 10 times and this Boab Classic 3x3 m Gazebo is 100% junk Already broke couple of struts (second outing) one of the legs plastic pin for height adjusting mechanins just broke and canopy is tearing apart at each corner after total of 10 times use. Wanted to obtain spare struts from Ray's, after being given run around and waited and waited for the crap being ordered from warehouse I just given up and sourced parts for another gazebo and modified as required to get this junk working I expected better, especially after my cheap Kmart sourced gazebo I bought 12 years ago and took it to hell and back is still intact except having its legs rusted up from being used constantly at the beach. The canopy is still like new and struts took some serious wind punishment. Don't buy Boab crap, save yourself hard earned cash for some better product. Now I'm wondering what to get instead? Cheers

Its kinda cool but I miss how I was able to look up latest users. Can't find that tab/section. Cheers

Congrats mate, keep us updated on the unit's life/behavior or any problems. Cheers

G'day, you'll need to read the codes first. Then you can reset them if it is nothing serious. Fault Codes The 4 digit Fault Codes are displayed in two parts as flashes of the Check Engine Lamp. The first part represents the first two digits of the fault code. These are displayed as 0.6 second flashes. The second part displays the second two digits of the fault code. These are displayed as 0.3 second flashes. There is a 0.9 second pause between the first and second parts of the code. There is a 2.1 second gap between separate codes of different value. Multiple codes will flash in order of numerical value, from lowest to highest. Fault Code Erasure Fault Code Erasure can be carried out with a Compatible Scan Tool or manually. Manual Erasure: 1. Carry out Fault Code Extraction. 2. While the Fault Codes are being displayed, bridge Diagnostic Connector terminals 1 and 8. 3. Wait at least two seconds. 4. Disconnect the bridge between Diagnostic Connector terminals 1 and 8. (This will erase the Fault Codes from ECM memory) Should the above procedure fail to erase the Fault Codes; Disconnect the battery negative cable or remove power to the ECM for 24 hours. Ensure that other memory codes are known prior to performing this procedure. Fault Code Extraction Fault Code Extraction can be carried out with a Compatible Scan Tool or manually. Manual Extraction: 1. Switch ignition ON. 2. Confirm the Check Engine Lamp illuminates. (The system will be in Diagnostic Test Mode I.) 3. Bridge Diagnostic Connector terminals 1 and 8. Confirm the Check Engine Lamp extinguishes. 4. Wait at least two seconds. 5. Disconnect the bridge between Diagnostic Connector terminals 1 and 8. (The system will be in Diagnostic Test Mode II.) 6. Read Fault Codes as flashes of the Check Engine Lamp. Do not switch ignition off during this procedure or the system returns to Diagnostic Test Mode I. Fault Code Table Code # Circuit and Status 0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit, Sensor or ECM failure 0103 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (excessively high or low voltage at ECM) Circuit, Sensor or ECM failure 0104 Vehicle Speed Sensor (signal not sent when vehicle is in motion) Circuit, Sensor or ECM failure 0203 Accelerator Position Switch (incorrect signal sent to ECM) Accelerator Position Switch fault or ECM failure 0208 Overheating Fault Cooling Fan system failure, Engine coolant re-filling procedure not followed, Cooling system faulty, Engine lubrication problem 0301 ECM 2, failure (calculation function is malfunctioning) Internal IC failure 0402 Fuel Temperature Sensor (incorrect signal for fuel temperature received) Refer to Injection Pump Control Unit Circuit, Sensor or ECM failure 0403 Accelerator Position Sensor (out of range signal received from sensor or switch assembly) Circuit malfunction, Accelerator Position Sensor failure, Accelerator Pedal Dual Contact Position Switch failure, ECM failure 0406 INT/AIR volume (excessively high signal from Mass Air Flow Sensor) Air Duct, Charge Air cooler, Variable Nozzle Turbo Charger Control System, Variable Nozzle Turbo Charger, Mass Air Flow Sensor failure, Circuit malfunction 0407 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit, Sensor or ECM failure 0502 Battery voltage (excessively high voltage sent to battery) Incorrect jump starting, Battery, Alternator, ECM 0504 Automatic Transmission Communication Line (ECM receives incorrect voltage from Transmission ECM) Circuit malfunction, Automatic Transmission ECM 0505 No faults detected Monitored circuits are operating normally 0701 Camshaft Position Sensor (incorrect signal from the Injection Pump Control Unit) Refer to Injection Pump Control Unit Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit 0702 Top Dead Centre Pulse Signal (incorrect signal from the Injection Pump Control Unit) Refer to Injection Pump Control Unit Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit 0703 Pump Communication Line (incorrect signal from the Injection Pump Control Unit) Refer to Injection Pump Control Unit Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit 0704 Spill Valve Circuit Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit 0705 Pump Control Module Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit failure 0706 Spill Valve Circuit malfunction, Spill Valve, Injection Pump Control Unit 0707 Fuel Injection Timing Control System Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit failure, Poor fuel quality 0802 Barometric Pressure Sensor (built into the ECM) Internal circuit malfunction, ECM failure 0804 ECM internal input signal processing function malfunctioning ECM failure 0807 Brake Light Switch Circuit malfunction, Switch failure 0901 ECM Failure (calculation function is malfunctioning) Internal IC failure 0902 ECM Relay (incorrect voltage received by the ECM from the relay) Main Relay malfunction, Circuit malfunction 0903 ECM Internal input signal processing function malfunctioning ECM failure 0905 Turbo Pressure Circuit malfunction, Charge Air Pressure Sensor failure 1003 EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit malfunction, EGR Volume Control Valve failure 1004 Fuel Cut System Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit failure, ECM failure 1401 to 1408 Nissan Anti Theft System Diagnostic link connector, the white connector just to the left and down from bonnet release lever. Above info may apply to your model and diagnostic connector may look like the one in the photo which is OBD type but yours could have grey Consult type Or alternatively you could purchase appropriate ECUTalk cable and use software supplied with on your notebook/laptop to do it easy way. I thoroughly recommend you to go this route as the ECUTalk is invaluable tool. I'm guessing from you avatar pic that yours is non CrD model (On CrD or common rail diesel all this info doesn't apply.) ECUTalk cables interface Cheers

I think he got it from OL (Opposite Lock) its not theirs but Outback Ideas 4WD accsy. And if you are a member on "nissanpatrol.com.au" forum you can contact the bloke himself. ==> http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?12616-Outback-Ideas-Recovery-points

G'day, 4WD switch is mounted on the transfer case (that bulky unit mounted on the back of the tranny pointing sideways from which drive shaft goes to the front axle....) Its on the left hand side upper part. See the details about the wiring as well in the L top corner of the image bellow:

G'day mate, Not all correct I'm afraid. Particular ADR says that rear lights must visible from certain side angle which in a case of spare wheel being mounted on the tail gate/rear door means that many 4WDs don't comply and will need to add extra lights in the bumper. That's it! What has created this "cluster fcuk" further is the greed of car makers when they realized that they don't need to fit the main body lights plus globes and harness and save 'some pennies' in the process while still charging you as if you had full option.....nice money earner for them. Mitsubishi used supply both the full body lights and bumper lights now its a same as Nissan. To correct this result is unfortunately your problem and your cost. Some if not all Nissan dealers in Australia will happily convert the "dummy lights" to full working body lights prior the new vehicle delivery if the customer is aware of the situation and requests the fitment.There are number of sellers on E-bay who sell genuine Nissan Middle East version of body lights variant + wiring harness. What you will get is top amber indicators, middle reverse and lower tail/brake combo. It works out about 100-200 per light assembly plus harnesses. This is not just Nissan and technically it is not ADRs fault. You will need to keep the bumper lights in the place as well to be legal after the conversion though. Putting a light on the pole to act as reverse light is not entirely legal according to ADR as number of clauses apply so don't get caught by overzealous Mr Plod. Most of us use dual function that is the light on the pole is officially a work/camp light (legal and allowed as long as it can only activated from rear) and reverse as well with extra over ride switching as to not attract attention. BTW even if you have both reverse lights in the Patrols body lights they still suck so having a "tele" or fixed pole on the back door with good wide spread LED lights assembly on it works the magic. Cheers

You want to push the fuel through main filter, if you are concerned then fit additional sedimenter like CAV or like ones from Racor before the additional lift pump. Cheers

There are 3 possible system set ups for TD42. For two of those there is no need to modify the how the injectors spill line is routed and for the last one you just need to make sure that spill line points to fuel return line and not back in to intake side of the pump. You have to look at your system as I don't know which one you have, courtesy of Nissan making things different every shift! So if yours resembles type 3 or fuel spill line is connected to intake line on the pump you must re-route it to fuel return line if you install additional lift pump. I had to do it on mine but that's ZD30 abomination on VP44 injection pump see bellow: I fitted Walbro lift pump in the engine bay, ( Mr NIssan has pre-made some mounting holes with threads there so I couldn't resist) you can hear it inside with stereo off when engine (everytime I have a passenger with me they wonder what is that rattling oscillating noise?) is idling which I like, lets me know it is working. I have extra manual switch in the centre console to turn it off if I choose otherwise it is powered of the ignition signal and if I could be bothered that much I could also fit inertia safety switch in the circuit so it will kill the pump in case of accident for added safety..... If I mounted it on rubber blocks then it will probably be even less resonating through the body. I'll be going bigger FRB22 soon as I think VP44 can handle more (up to 14 psi is reference design) pressure and it is actually better for extra power output.

There ya go, now stop dicking around and fit some decent lift pump like I mentioned earlier. Cheers

Glow relay on ZD30 is in RH corner of the bulkhead and the inner side fender underneath near where bonnet strut is mounted. It is covered with plastic white cover right next to brake booster.... Basically same spot as Ricster described. Cheers

Fully agree with the EGT gauge, it will teach you how to drive the diesel, it might even save your motor and more importantly it will/can warn about impending disaster coming by telling you when to back off the go pedal. By far most valuable modification to any diesel engine especially in 4WD. Cheers

I'm guessing somewhere higher up, perhaps in to the space behind tail lamp assemblies. Or just extend it all the way to the fron where rest of them go. Cheers

What he said, if you have added extra prefilter then it is prudent to install additonal electric lift pump with sufficent capacity. Walbro FRB-22 or FRB-13 should suffice and good news they're through flow so don't restrict the flow when not in use/out of action. Just make sure the existing injectors spill line returns to fuel tank not the suction line on the injection pump (normally under negative pressure due to lift pump being a part of IP) otherwise you'll have issues. FRB22 is capable of delivering 8-11 psi positive pressure which is/should be perfect under large load/demand but check max pressure rating for the IP. I know that a lot of aftermarket Diesel specialists fit FRB13-2 (5-8 psi)to assist rotary injection pumps on older diesel with good results. I have that one too but now considering the bigger FRB22 series. Regards

That'll be the first "Play-doh" driver joining Nissan crew.... just kidding. Welcome aboard mate and feel free to contribute about anything, Toyotas included. Cheers

We don't bag ZD30 full stop. Those who keep saying that it was only models up to 2003 have NFI. The sad thing is that Nissan has never fixed the primary ZD30 issue which is the piston failure. They did something to it since 2007 when they went to common rail and the "hole in the piston" become a less of the issue but added new problems. All the other problems are still there waiting to rear their ugley heads when you least suspect it. Every ZD30 motor from Di series (up to 2007 non common rail) is susceptible to the same piston failure period. Nissan will not tell you about it nor will they acknowledge it. At some point several years agon there was actually shortage of replacement ZD30 motors and that has to tell you something. By the way did you know that majority of ZD30 engines are made in China by Donfeng Motors? Anyway, ask yourself this question, why is CrD ZD30 engine on the same power/torque figure as Di (non common rail)version ? Not a horse or Newton meter more. Why is Navara's version of ZD30 Di not famous for blown piston? Because it has none of the Y61 control or variable vane turbo but is less powerful and has a MAF less tune. Answer to these question are the key to understand why ZD30 in Patrol is called grenade. Less power = less fuel = less heat and that's the cause. So common rail ZD30 has better heat resistant pistons (It has to as well because much higher peak injection pressures Di = 700 Bars, CrD = 1800 Bars) it has better injectors, better fuel management and yet only the same power output so it doesn't work as hard hence lasts longer and not hovering constantly at its upper limits like Di. ZD30 in CrD form should be pumping easily 160 kW and 480 Nm not 118kW/380 Nm (for a manual only as well for auto 354 Nm) but that would send it to its limits and expose all its weakness. Look at Navara YD25 engine, it has 0.5 litre less, pumps 140 kW and 420 Nm torque and that is another dog of the motor. If you ever look at ZD30 design you will realize how badly it is designed. It is utter nightmare to dismantle, e.g impossible to fix simple coolant or oil leak between front timing cover and the block sandwich plate without removing engine because you need to drop oil sump which you can't remove unless you remove gearbox first.....it has non liner/sleeved block (like petrol motors, cylinders are bored/honed straight in to cast iron block), alloy head so any metalurgist will tell you about heat expansion difference between cast iron and alluminium. It has idiotic counterbalance shafts from Mitsubishi Astron engine which suck power and it (engine) still vibrates like there is nothing there. This isn't a rant, just simple observation. Regards

They do come with extended breathers, the lines go to air cleaner housing except for rear diff which ends up in rear cross member (not ideal bu better then nothing) Regards